Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Mr Latte]

This is rather frustrating and I am tired so hence the delivered annoyance in posts.

Ask yourself these points.

• How many tactile units do you know of are designed to be stacked?
• Have you ever seen a cockpit do this?
• Why is it so hard to take the advice given or the products tested and recommended?
• If they please me, with what I have in tactile units, should they not please you or others?
• Yet you feel the need to find potentially better options or solutions based on theory, so why then even ask when already you may know better?

Is it not clear to you, that you are trying to fit ideas into your rig, that it cannot really sustain and you have no idea what a single large BK would feel like (never mind having ideas of 2 with a BK Gamer) on that low cost seat you own. Also how will the HESF mounted in some way to the seat you have perform if the back of the main seat is not solid.

You have been advised to get a more suited seat to build on, your not interested yet you then talk about buying £££ of tactile to place on a build that is not going to work that well.

As for comparing the HESF to the Thruster and this point you want to go on about the Fs rating.
What difference will it make, we limit the units detailing and output to around 150-200Hz based on the users preference. Yes the HESF has a bit better low end but as stated to you it will not matter when we are using other units for the lower bass anyways. Also if needed as the responses are similar it would be possible to just increase the amplitude for some of the effects or the units (input gain) via the HA6000 I recommend as an additional toy to have.

So no I am not concerned about the HESF or any lost potential performance.
We want the best and lowest bass to come from the bottom of the seat base and it fill the whole seat and the back support. The exciters are about specific detailing of effects to specific body regions, they do not need lots of power but greater fidelity and sensitivity which we feel more in our spine/shoulders and sides.

The recommended units exceeded their original expectations, especially when paired with additional sets for greater effects dispersion or the ability to place effects to more than one body zone.

It seems you are getting way, way ahead of yourself with your build ideas and want to ignore the advice being given. We do not need to take this further...

 

[bassun]

- designed to be stacked, I assume none. But, I don't think electric motors were designed to be used to run steering wheels in sim racing games either. IDK if it works well, or not. I asked because it's a way for me to have a wider responsive frequency span.
- nope, but I had never seen someone link game data to an iPad until someone tried it.
- I have no issue taking advice. The question may be why do you have such a hard time discussing ideas, if they are not what you have planned? Why do you get annoyed when someone has a question that isn't a carbon copy of your setup?
- If they please you in your rig, that is fine and dandy. I am sure that your setup, once complete, would be enjoyable to me. But I, and others, are not building your rig. We are using the experiences you have and are sharing to expand our rigs. Why would you think that I would just duplicate your rig? If I wanted to start fresh and build out an 8020 rig, ok fine -- maybe I could understand why you would be pushing that. Most of us are not duplicating your setup.
- I find solutions for my situation. The stacked transducer has NOTHING to do with some magical effect. It has 100% to do with no other options to put any vibration into the back of the seat. Why is it wrong to have ideas, and discuss them? Why is it wrong to look to better my setup with the lower cost of trying some tactile vs buying a whole new rig? I'd like 6Dof, but I'm not prepared to buy a motion rig.

Your are correct in that I do not want to replace parts of a gift. I do, however, want to try to enhance them. Will it be as good as your $20+ k setup, of course not. Do I think that I can have decent tactile by utilizing some creative solutions, absolutely. Why would I not discuss my ideas to try to make the best of what I have? Why do you think the only option is to replace everything and build as you did?

The point on the resonance frequency is that as we are closer it its natural frequency in the 100-200 range than the thruster is. As you know, efficiency is gained the closer you are to the Fs. Given the gap between the effective use range of 100-200 is nearly half the gap on the HESF vs the Thruster, it stands to reason we would see potential gain in the effective range we want to utilize. That's all. Nothing mystical or low end hertz related. Sure you can always amend the output, but when you start comparing apples to apples - having a better starting point makes sense. Now, all that said --- Do I think there will be any major improvements of the HESF over the thruster? No, I never said there would be. But if you have option A and option B, why would you use A just because someone else did and never even try B when the results should be at least very similar? I am ok with screwing it down - you are not. Different use case. That said, the HESF may suck! I wont know until I try. What I don't understand is why you are so upset that I would even consider trying something that you don't sign off on personally, although you never even tried it?

I feel like you are totally missing the point of any of my posts. I am not trying to duplicate your rig. I am not trying to make my rig work identical to your rig. I am trying to improve what I have, without replacing it and have a little fun with tactile. Am I asking for feedback and ideas, yes - absolutely. But all you seem to do is talk about how if it is not just like your rig it wont work. I feel like you may be channeling the Borg. I could understand if I was posting on your build thread, but I thought this was the general discussion...


Now looping back to a point you made that is actually relevant to my build - you may be right in that multiple BK-LTE's is too much. Not sure what to do in that case. I think, and yes this is theory again, that if they are too powerful, that my best bet would be to turn them down. I could be wrong though. I know I want to utilize the lower frequencies they reproduce the best, and I cannot see any other solution to get those frequencies. I know the BK-G2 wont go low enough -- do you think I'm better to skip the stereo idea on the LTE's and just do one mono? Seems like an option but then I give up stereo effect. Would you suggest maybe swapping the stereo portion out to say Aura Pro's, and run a solo LTE in mono? With the seat being isolated, I am able to direct all vibe strait to it - so maybe since it is lighter I can get by with that? Not sure and don't have the gear to test it yet. That said, if 2 BK-LTE's are just 100% going to be way too much even when turned down - I guess I can save some money there and not get them unless it is a heck of a deal.

THIS is exactly the kind of discussion I was hoping to get into with you. Ideas and solutions, not a debate about why your rig is better than mine and making you feel like we ignore your input just because we have different situations to fit our tactile to. On an aside, once I get the two different exciters, I will run some tests on them and post the results. I'm curious just how differently they actually perform.

 

[Mr Latte]

The solution is you start your own thread and put your rig images and ideas in that thread.
Then whoever is wanting to help, can help you and they can discuss or debate things.

In fairness, I do not really care what you do, I am skimming over your posts as really I don't like the way you are coming across. I have offered to give advice but apparently I am all upset that you do not take it or others do not want to go with the configuration I recommend.

There are many rigs you can find that will relate to the installation you have in mind. Or you should seek others with the same cockpit to ask them what they have tried or recommend.

You have a rig that is not that well suited to multiple tactile but you are obsessing about hardware you have no idea how it even performs. Then strangely in your mind now attempting to determine what and how to install it or how all the vibes will come together and work just wonderfully.

Try the things YOU want to try as we cannot give you all the answers.
Buy the hardware YOU want to buy.

What your missing is that recently I share this new approach that is different based on my own experimentation and testing. I share that with people here if they want to go with that. I express why it is better and how it can start as affordable and be expanded to something crazy if they desire.

I do not get upset that most people that frequent these forums did not buy DSP amps, nor did people do "Dual Role" installations nor have users of motion seats or like SFX agreed with my views on how we can combine tactile and motion to work better together. Or indeed like this most recent topic, go with the "concept" approach that I recommend and have experimented a lot with.

If others don't go with it then it doesn't stop me enjoying it any less. Or if they do go with it, well it doesnt win me an award or make me any better off. If anything its just more about sharing the improved immersion with others and if it helps them or they appreciate it then well n good.

We all have our own ideas or preferences.
I am sure a lot of people will be keen on your discoveries so happy testing but really I am not getting involved with your build and this insulting "mines better than yours" approach you say I have, its not the best way to seek help from people,

 

[bassun]

Lol just read some of your posts if you think I'm off base in your narcissistic approach and getting aggravated that people don't just do as you say. Just the number of times you've said why do I even bother alone conveys much. It's ok. I thought maybe your comprehension was just lacking when you couldn't discuss anything outside of your design. But I realize there's much more to it, you don't even read posts to understand the discussion.

No worries. I'll just read and extrapolate or have conversations with those who are capable of discussing solutions in the general discussion thread. Good luck with your build, hopefully it all comes together for you.

 

[Mr Latte]

Well I guess we can't all be perfect or always agree, thanks for the insults and reality check.
Hope you enjoyed the laugh...

 

[frebe]

The SMSL SA-98E is a recommended unit here which drives 2 x 160w. How well would that power Reckhorn BS200i that is RMS=100w and peak at 200w?

 

[Cote Dazur]

I just like to add to this thread that it does not have to be overly complicated to get the advantages of tactile. I am afraid new comers to tactile might get the wrong impression.
My tactile is a KW 908 seat and a butt kicker, all I reproduce is road vibrations using sim hub.
That alone transformed my sim experience and make my games much more immersive.
Tactile as a complement to FFB was the missing link to a better immersion for me and I suspect many sim driver/racer in search of a more immersive sim experience could vastly profit from a basic set up without breaking the bank or starting a second career as a tactile expert.
So far the major steps which made SIM driving my main and daily hobby have been: a very good gpu, VR, load cell brake and tactile.

 

[Dadz]

I started with a subpac v2, which I had put behind my back, and was absolutely brilliant. I tried to place it under my bucket seat, and still new information was coming up. and my first crankset was a Fanatec V3, and the feeling of vibration at the foot is great, but very weak too. This is why I decided to move to a high-end installation, which should delight me once finished. It's good to have a first experience with vibration, and if your wound, well, we want to go further.

 

[Mr Latte]

I started with Aura Pro, BK Mini and TST 209 as finding info on them at the time was very difficult (@2006)
So I done my own comparisons and testing with them.

This was before we had telemetry based tactile so, was all just game audio. Back then I looked into also buying FBQ 3102 units with 31-band equalisers to bring control to certain frequencies and boom I was hooked into it all as a hobby. Eventually buying many other units in curiosity but it was only after a long while, did I pucker up to get the larger BK models to feel what each offered. After that, there was no going back.

Certainly, you do not need to spend big money on tactile to like it but there is a LOT of crappy amps and tactile units available that people will buy not knowing what is better than some options.

Image from long ago, my early tactile experimentation....

 

[bassun]

I agree, it doesn't have to be extreme. I started tactile many moons ago, but not for sims. I set up for home audio, and I don't even remember what it was lol. Bought something used and loved it. Then later BKG2 for the rig.

Need to set the home audio back up with it...only bigger this time...

Sorry to the group if Latte and my interactions were off putting. One of those extra blunt days on my end.

 

[Mr Latte]

The SMSL SA-98E is a recommended unit here which drives 2 x 160w. How well would that power Reckhorn BS200i that is RMS=100w and peak at 200w?

With this being such a huge thread and forums various threads have had tactile discussions.
Use " SMSL SA-98E " in the seach feature.

Two things you will find common, more wattage you want these small amps. Then ensure they come with higher rated PSU eg 36V. You will not use anything close to the max wattage on a rig with well-installed units.
Some vendors will ship an amp with listed specs of 100w or 200w yet with them only ship the most minimum voltage rated PSU. This is why some units listed for 100W or higher will perform better with 18V 24V and if supported 36V PSU. *Always only use a PSU suited to the hardware specs.

Users that push amps to max or high wattages are usually over pushing the units or that there rig freely lets most of the tactile energy from the unit flow to other regions it is not even beneficial or felt.

For example, one solution highlighted to me recently in PM by a member seeking to improve their rigs tactile. Is Simlabs plates attaching the units to the main profile of a rig. A bit like SimXperience. This will greatly waste the tactile that actually goes to the seat and into the user.

Tactile Performance is always improved if a user installs units directly to seat or pedal sections and then isolates them from the main rig. This puts the energy/detailing directly into the user and helps sustain it there, reducing what vibrations flow elsewhere into a rig.

In some cases a user may want if using only a single unit for it to be felt in seat and pedals and vibrations to travel. When we go to multiple units and these units having positional effects, then we should be ensuring we maintain that positional placement the telemetry via the physics is output and felt to the users appropriate placement.

This means not letting L/R effects mix and flow easily to various parts of a rig frame before it reaches the user and thats a whole topic on its own that many peoples rigs do not do very well. So for lots of builds that do this, they will lack the positional placement of stereo effects and generate more of a mono experience.

Depends on the software used as well
Simvibe only has one primary effect that is stereo based.
With Shakeit we can have several

 

[frebe]

With this being such a huge thread and forums various threads have had tactile discussions.
Use " SMSL SA-98E " in the seach feature.

Two things you will find common, more wattage you want these small amps. Then ensure they come with higher rated PSU eg 36V. You will not use anything close to the max wattage on a rig with well-installed units.
Some vendors will ship an amp with listed specs of 100w or 200w yet with them only ship the most minimum voltage rated PSU. This is why some units listed for 100W or higher will perform better with 18V 24V and if supported 36V PSU. *Always only use a PSU suited to the hardware specs.

Users that push amps to max or high wattages are usually over pushing the units or that there rig freely lets most of the tactile energy from the unit flow to other regions it is not even beneficial or felt.

For example, one solution highlighted to me recently in PM by a member seeking to improve their rigs tactile. Is Simlabs plates attaching the units to the main profile of a rig. A bit like SimXperience. This will greatly waste the tactile that actually goes to the seat and into the user.

Tactile Performance is always improved if a user installs units directly to seat or pedal sections and then isolates them from the main rig. This puts the energy/detailing directly into the user and helps sustain it there, reducing what vibrations flow elsewhere into a rig.

In some cases a user may want if using only a single unit for it to be felt in seat and pedals and vibrations to travel. When we go to multiple units and these units having positional effects, then we should be ensuring we maintain that positional placement the telemetry via the physics is output and felt to the users appropriate placement.

This means not letting L/R effects mix and flow easily to various parts of a rig frame before it reaches the user and thats a whole topic on its own that many peoples rigs do not do very well. So for lots of builds that do this, they will lack the positional placement of stereo effects and generate more of a mono experience.

Depends on the software used as well
Simvibe only has one primary effect that is stereo based.
With Shakeit we can have several

I could not find that amp being discussed with that bass shaker in this thread, but I could of course have missed it even with the search feature. I read the reply as "yes, should be possible, with the right PSU".

Anyhow, I think I will go a different route. I will start "small", but with stuff that will make sense even if I get bitten and decide to add large BKs later.

I need a double check here that I'm thinking correctly on the cabling/connector front too. Thought setup:

1 x Behringer EPQ304
4 x DAEX32EP-4
2 x Mini jack to XLR, to connect soundcard and amp
4 x Neutrik connectors for amp -> exciter
YZm of cables

Does that look OK? If not, what should I replace which item with? (from Thomann or Soundimport would be preferred).
Not in the list is a soundcard (need to research a bit) and sound insulation/vibration control stuff.

Thanks,

 

[gnoshme]

@Mr Latte can I ask some clarity on a couple of things I've seen you mention that I can't find deep detail on?

1) Phase. I saw mention in one of your threads about switching phase, but didn't see any details on why you might do that. Not sure when there might be a benefit of running transducers out of phase from each other.. theory please?

2) Mixing in game audio. What's the 101 on this? I started with only audio, playing around with rack gear to optimize it (eq, limiting / compression & noise gate). The idea of bringing that experience back and mixing with the tactile is intriguing.

Additional question. I read your thread testing how to use the EQ in a DSP amp to help deal with BK overheating. Have you experimented with OS level EQ to trim frequency signal for SPECIFIC transducers on SPECIFIC channels to help deal with their idiosyncrasies and limitations?

Does your iPad app do that? My setup is pretty basic. I'm Xbox and sending telemetry to an old Windows laptop running Simhub into a USB 7.1 device. I tried a piece of free software called Peace Equalizer but it fell on it's face and I'm trying to decide if it's worth fighting it or buying something commercial.

As an aside, mounting a quiet 4" duct fan (designed to be put inline in 4" round ducting) with a shroud around my BK concert mini has gone a long way to solving the overheating problem using the BK at a level that gives meaningful feel (mono / rpm, engine & speed modules only). Does not change the fact that if I trimmed the 20hz/30hz as you suggest then I could turn the thing up a notch and get better tactile through the rest of the range without overheating.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Alvaro de la Orden]

Just ordered a Simekit K2 cockpit today. It´s not a 8020 rig but I suppose antivibrating principles apply as well. In a couple of weeks I would be ordering a HA6000 + 6 Dayton DAEX32, my plan is attaching the six of them to the fiberglass bucket. I guess it´s called a 3x stereo installation ¿¿??
Close future will bring a small amp and two cheap shakers (bought before entering this thread) for the pedal plate.

 

[Mr Latte]

@frebe all looks good

@gnoshme
Phase, is for ensuring all the tactile are operating in sync.

If you had two tactile units, one upright and the other inverted underneath. If these were both sent the same output in Hz at the same time then each would cancel out the other.

So we can swap the cables on the inverted unit (+ goes to - and - goes to +) as that then reverses the phase. The NXD and iNuke amps make this simple without altering the wiring from the software controlling the amp.

Audio tactile is something I will cover in more depth again at a later time. It can be complicated but yes it can be beneficial to immersion if done right. Not everyone will care much about it or want to go to all the bother to get the most from it.

Basically we need to boost and control the game audio individually from speakers/headphones. You can do this with a few PC software tools but it can be tedious and needs a learning curve. Examples of what can be done via the iPad and a multichannel interface have been looked at in this thread a few times already. Basically if taking audio into an interface then anything can be done with audio that professional apps/plug-ins allow.

Nobody ever covered in detail what or how such can be done via Voicemeter Banana.

BK Overheating?
Transducers may overheat more if you are pushing them hard with high gain levels in EQ or amplification. The other factor is to limit the Hz to frequencies (under 100Hz).

If you have a BK Mini Concert also be sure you are powering it via a 2ohm amp and not 4ohm
The Concert and BK Gamer series were 2ohm units, the Mini and BK LFE units are 4ohm.

 

[Mr Latte]

HAVING A WOW MOMENT
Every so often in developing and experimenting with effects, you find a combination that just feels awesome!!!

I've been putting in a lot of time regards testing new effects ideas lately. This past week has seen me working on improving how we can make the sensation of speed much more thrilling. Have found a way with SPEED sensation to be able to give cars very different feels in character regards their acceleration, deceleration and peak speeds.

Still more work to do on these but this is one reason I enjoy tactile so much. Good effects can totally change how enjoyable and more sucked in you get to thrashing a car around a track.

 

[ewancoder]

Hi everyone. I'm new to tactile think and I want to try it out. Could you please suggest the best options I've got based on my setup.

I've got Simlab GT1 Evo rig with bucket seat on it. I was thinking to buy 2 AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro transducers and put one under the seat and one under the pedals, then I read that when you put two under the seat (for stereo) it's way better so I decided to order 3. Then I heard that BEHIND the seat is good for engine revs so I decided to order 4. Two under the seat, one behind the seat and one under the pedals. Then I saw some images that people put transducers to the sides of the seat so I thought it might be cool but if I do that I will have no transducers UNDER the seat.. so I thought maybe I should buy 5: one under the seat, two to the sides, one behind, and one under pedals.

Looks like I'm goind to buy a lot of Aura transducers without even knowing if it works like I expect or no. I'm going to try SimHub first and SimVibe if it doesn't work for me.

Anyway, my biggest concerns are that vibrations might be too little or not distribute as well as I want on 8020 rig, I don't know if I will be able to isolate my pedals / seat from the rest of 8020 base. Also I don't even know if I will be able to attach transducers to my seat, it's quite cheap and I have no idea if it cracks if I start drilling holes in it so I'm thinking to use adhesive tape, will it work? If it doesn't then I'm probably going to mount transducers to 8020 parts near the seat.

I don't want to buy a lot of parts to be disappointed later.

What I want as an end goal: I want front/rear separation, I want left/right separation. (I think left/right separation is negligible in the pedals so that's why I decided to do stereo only at the rear). I want to know what my wheels are doing (possibly some oversteer indication would be very helpful, the ultimate goal if it's possible), road structure, engine revs. The budget is not limited in theory, but I'd like not to spend any unneeded expenses.

Thanks.

Also, if I go with Aura shakers, which AMP should I buy?

 

[Alvaro de la Orden]

Hi everyone. I'm new to tactile think and I want to try it out. Could you please suggest the best options I've got based on my setup.

I've got Simlab GT1 Evo rig with bucket seat on it. I was thinking to buy 2 AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro transducers and put one under the seat and one under the pedals, then I read that when you put two under the seat (for stereo) it's way better so I decided to order 3. Then I heard that BEHIND the seat is good for engine revs so I decided to order 4. Two under the seat, one behind the seat and one under the pedals. Then I saw some images that people put transducers to the sides of the seat so I thought it might be cool but if I do that I will have no transducers UNDER the seat.. so I thought maybe I should buy 5: one under the seat, two to the sides, one behind, and one under pedals.

Looks like I'm goind to buy a lot of Aura transducers without even knowing if it works like I expect or no. I'm going to try SimHub first and SimVibe if it doesn't work for me.

Anyway, my biggest concerns are that vibrations might be too little or not distribute as well as I want on 8020 rig, I don't know if I will be able to isolate my pedals / seat from the rest of 8020 base. Also I don't even know if I will be able to attach transducers to my seat, it's quite cheap and I have no idea if it cracks if I start drilling holes in it so I'm thinking to use adhesive tape, will it work? If it doesn't then I'm probably going to mount transducers to 8020 parts near the seat.

I don't want to buy a lot of parts to be disappointed later.

What I want as an end goal: I want front/rear separation, I want left/right separation. (I think left/right separation is negligible in the pedals so that's why I decided to do stereo only at the rear). I want to know what my wheels are doing (possibly some oversteer indication would be very helpful, the ultimate goal if it's possible), road structure, engine revs. The budget is not limited in theory, but I'd like not to spend any unneeded expenses.

Thanks.

Also, if I go with Aura shakers, which AMP should I buy?

3M VHB (very high bond) adhesive tape is recommended to attach small exciters to a bucket seat, even better if that seat is made of fiberglass instead of fabric.

 

[Alvaro de la Orden]

Cockpit is here and almost assembled.
I want to put it over a 180x80 cms board to raise it from the floor. To that board I will have to drilll holes for supports in the lower surface, and the particular isolation method I choose in the upper surface.
So I´m guessing I should choose MDF over plywood, right? MDF is denser so the area around the drills won´t come "loose".

 

[SultanZuul]

I could not find that amp being discussed with that bass shaker in this thread, but I could of course have missed it even with the search feature. I read the reply as "yes, should be possible, with the right PSU".

Anyhow, I think I will go a different route. I will start "small", but with stuff that will make sense even if I get bitten and decide to add large BKs later.

I need a double check here that I'm thinking correctly on the cabling/connector front too. Thought setup:

1 x Behringer EPQ304
4 x DAEX32EP-4
2 x Mini jack to XLR, to connect soundcard and amp
4 x Neutrik connectors for amp -> exciter
YZm of cables

Does that look OK? If not, what should I replace which item with? (from Thomann or Soundimport would be preferred).
Not in the list is a soundcard (need to research a bit) and sound insulation/vibration control stuff.

Thanks,

Hi all!
So, 48 years old I finally got the opportunity to realize a dream I have had since I started gaming back in the early 80's I went and spent a s**t load of money on a combined flight and racing VR rig with a beast of computer. My thought was to mostly do flight sims with DCS being the go to sim. Then I tried sim racing and I'm now totally hooked! New pedals and DD wheel is ordered and for the last couple of days I have been trying to read up on tactile immersion and sort out what I need to get. But, as my knowledge in audio is very limited, not much has become clearer and I need some advice from you guys

My rig is a 80/20 build build (see pic). I do not have any dampening yet but will get some basic rubber feets or some rubber matting to isolate the rig from the floor.

My PC is a i9-9900K, RTX 2080ti, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Code motherboard with 32GB ram. My VR is a Pimax 5K+ and I mostly run Assetto Corsa Competizione. I have a dedicated Soundblaster Z card and thought I would use my onboard motherboard soundcard to run the setup as I do not use it for anything at the moment.

After reading tonnes of posts, reviews and watching Youtube videos my thought is to not go overboard with this but still try to have a decent beginners setup that I can improve on in the future. My budget is about $500 and when I saw frebes post above I felt he was thinking along the same lines as me. I want to run the system with SimHub and with telemetry data to run each transducer on its own channel to give me more feedback. My questions now are:

- I have been looking at basically the same setup as frebe but with the Reckhorn BS-200i shakers instead. I thought I would use one for each wheel. Any thoughts on how they are compared to others in the same price range?
- Would this https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR717-7-2-Channel-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B007JOO4YS work and be a better option as an amplifier compared to the Behringer EPQ304, as I can get this for under $150. I'm not sure on how the channels, watts and ohms work and how many channels on this amplifier I can use to drive 4 or more shakers? If I buy one or two extra larger transducers later, like the BK mini Concert, could I run them on this amplifier or would I need a separate?
- Will my onboard soundcard be enough to run 4 or more separate channels and would I need any special cabling except for what frebe specified?

Any further toughts and ideas that will fit my budget range is always welcome Thanks beforehand and thanks to all of you that take time to help us less knowledgeble out

/Jonas, Sweden