Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[metalnwood]

Thanks.
Can the 429 cover the same frequencies or close to 4 of the 32EP-4 exciters on the back of the seat?
Is the Dayton audio dsp necessary for the 32EP-4 exciters? I'm good with buying the exciters and an amp, but if the exciters only increase the tactile immersion by 5-10%, than the additional cost and time of the dsp isn't worth it to me.

I brought up my solution once before which is four mini lfes on the seat instead of the exciters. This was because I already had them so made sense to use them instead getting exciters and more dsp.

Now I dad say while it worked great for me I am not suggesting people go and spend that $$ to do it - its what I had so I went with it.

But when you are talking about serious money of the best TST's I would personally consider it a better tradeoff to get something lower down the line and add a couple of lfe minis to the seat. The 429 may go down lower but makes no difference if you have taken that away with DSP to let an lfe do that work.

It may deliver more energy but whats the point if you are only turning down the gain to the point that its output is only the same as a a lower rated and less efficient one? Having said that, if I had a lot of $$ to throw at it I don't see why I would get them.

If you are trying to spend wisely, I think you should go for even a 239 with the addition of other tactile, like the mini lfes which would then fit in budget and deliver more than the exciters.

 

[drvrn]

It appears that there are multiple specs floating around. I'm not sure why.

I would like to think Clark Synthesis would get it right on their own website, but typically 135W is what is listed for the TST329 and not the TST429. Then again maybe Parts Express and other places are wrong.

I can google half a dozen places that list the 429 as 160W.

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Thank you for feedback.
I understand now the confusion when you google the specs on different websites and webshop.

I only use specs from manufacturer.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Thank you for feedback.
I understand now the confusion when you google the specs on different websites and webshop.

I only use specs from manufacturer.

In this case I suspect the manufacture actually has a typo.

Maybe it's worth asking them. Mistakes like that do happen.

 

[drvrn]

In this case I suspect the manufacture actually has a typo.

Maybe it's worth asking them. Mistakes like that do happen.

I trust manufacturer specs.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I trust manufacturer specs.

Normally I do as well. I do think it's worth checking with them to see if they dropped this value for a reason or if it is a type because their site used to have the higher number as well, which is why I suspect a typo. But it's possible they've decided for some reason the 429 isn't capable of 160W. I may check into it just to find out absolutely.

I just reached out to them to find out. No point in arguing about this.

 

[clay_statue]

you might consider a Race Bass system to help guarantee that you end up with something really good

Where does one go about buying those? I've searched online and get directed to the simtag website where I cannot find any mention of them. Either I'm being oblivious to something that obvious (which happens frequently with me) or they're entirely mythical, only being mentioned in obscure forum threads. If you have any link to where I can actually get them I would be much obliged.

 

[Philip K]

Where does one go about buying those? I've searched online and get directed to the simtag website where I cannot find any mention of them. Either I'm being oblivious to something that obvious (which happens frequently with me) or they're entirely mythical, only being mentioned in obscure forum threads. If you have any link to where I can actually get them I would be much obliged.

If you send simtag an email with what you are looking for they will organise an invoice and get them sent out to you.

There is information on their Facebook page, but for ease of reference, they have the isolator springs, brackets and a mounting plate for the seat install.

they aren’t online to buy yet, but they are nice and helpful, so shoot them a message.

 

[clay_statue]

If you send simtag an email with what you are looking for they will organise an invoice and get them sent out to you.

There is information on their Facebook page, but for ease of reference, they have the isolator springs, brackets and a mounting plate for the seat install.

they aren’t online to buy yet, but they are nice and helpful, so shoot them a message.

Thanks! This is the info I needed.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'm dropping this over here, just because the power usage surprised me so much.

 

[anton_Chez]

That's crazy. I have no idea how the usage is so low. I've measured just my PC before and running 6800XT and 5600X flat knacker, it pulls around 580W peak from what I saw. I've recently bought an 850W power supply to upgrade my current 650W. It is Gold rated but I had a few screen blinks one day which looked like a lack of power going to the GPU and got a bit anxious. I've been running it for over a year this way and I was confident that the usage was just under what I thought was acceptable for that size PSU. I've since just backed my overclocks down and it's been completely fine, I'm still running the 650W. But will put them back once I make the swap over. Hopefully this weekend. But yeah, amazingly low. Would that then confirm that the thought of having 3000 or 6000 watt amps for BK units is a bit overblown? I'd say so.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Overclocking does pull substantially more power and I'm not doing that. The i9-12900 is also supposed to be more efficient normally and since gaming doesn't peg all the cores like rendering video etc.. My non-overclocked CPU may actually be pulling less power than my old i9-9900K did. I have a Gold rated Corsair 1200W PS in my gaming computer. This would imply that it is running in it's less efficient power conversion area.

Believe it or not, I don't think this confirms the power requirements for the BK transducers. It's all about the transients and whether there is good power in reserve so that you don't get clipping.

I've been looking into the results from my little Kill-a-watt measuring device and what I've read implies that it doesn't have the fastest sampling rate. Unfortunately it would take something like a $2,000 Fluke power measuring device before I would get a better picture.

I also think if I were to drive a track with longer sustained higher speed turns that the SC 2 Pro would pull a chunk more power. And for Rally, I'm sure my NLRv3 would pull more power.

So this is just an indication of what my system can do.

 

[metalnwood]

@cnhoff showed essentially the same a few days ago, they are not consuming a lot of power.

Behringers sells cheap amps and they dont use RMS figures, straight away putting them in BS marketing space as far as numbers go.

There are various tests around for them but one that was also linked to here some time back says it was outputting max around 268W at 20hz and 4Ohm for the 3000d.

Similarly I used to run my mini lfes off a epq304 but I had to run low gain or the amp would turn off. I replaced that amp with two lower rate rotel amps and had more power than I could use. I am back to the 304 with them mounted on my seat and I run at lower levels now and is kind of a waste to have two expensive amplifiers running them.

For so long much of audio has been a marketing numbers game.

I can quote from someone that measured an SFX installation.

'The amount of power will be relative to the load the system is under; for instance with an approximately 170kg load author was seeing 50watts to hold the rig at the start position, 70-90watts gentle track surface, 200watts F1 car rough track surface, 300watts crashing.'

 

[RCHeliguy]

There are a number of 3rd party tests out there that show them lower than the 750W per channel that they list for 4 ohms.

Fortunately they have an uptick in gain below 20Hz I can say is that they can MOVE my 2ohm BK-CT's much harder than I want to, the same for my TST-429's.

They are having trouble keeping them in inventory, so definitely don't buy them. Other people want them.

 

[metalnwood]

I am not saying they are bad. They are competing against all the other brands with all the BS power numbers. For the price they seem to be competitive for the power they actually deliver.

The point was, if people are surprised how little they are using, you sometimes dont have to look past the BS figures that give people the impression the local nuclear power plant is delivering all the power to them when they have their amps turned on.

 

[RCHeliguy]

 

[Xalfy]

Hi there,
Might not need to create a new topic for that question so I'll use that mega thread .

I've just finished assembling bass shaker on my rig using the following:
- Nobsound Mini Amplifier
- 2x Dayton TT25-16 Pucks

My goal was to emulate front/rear by placing them... rear and front of me (shocking right?)

Everything seems to work fine, however I get a small delay in the shaking when I'm in game (which is especially noticeable when gearing up/down). I am using a licensed SimHub version, and the Amplifier is connected to me PC through USB.

Anyone experienced that and any tips to solve that issue ?

Thanks!

 

[RCHeliguy]

Groovy man!

 

[blekenbleu]

licensed SimHub

In SimHub, Open the ShakeIt Bass Shakers plugin, then the Sound Output tab,
then the enabled Output and mouse-click on Test Now for those attached Pucks.

• Is there delay between pressing Test now and shaking?
• If not, then delay is between game and SimHub or within SimHub
  or between shifters and game.

Alternatively, back in Effects Profile, open the Gear shift effect
and watch the Live effects window while shifting
to see whether delay is between shifters and SimHub.

 

[blekenbleu]

Groovy man!

Infrasonic cleaner?

 

[nopowerneeded]

hi all, after almost 2 days of reading here and reddit, I have a few questions:

1) a very few folks used 3M VHB tape to mount BST-1s on fiberglass seats (I have NRG Prisma). Why this is not a popular method? And someone said he used very thin type (I wonder something like 3M VHB Tape 5915 0.4mm thin) but others said to use thicker type with foam since it is stronger but then would not it dampen the effect of shakers more?

2) I am really scared to drill into them and the material/foam on the bottom of NRG seat is actually glued to the surface of the seat - do you normally rip it off or drill through it? Any tips and do I need any special drill bits or anything?

3) My budget is pretty modest for now, I am planning to get 2 BST-1s under the seat, but another option is one under and one on the back - which one is better? some said to get 2 under for left/right effects.

Thanks for all the info