Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[RCHeliguy]

I'm sure there is a way to make it work, but you would also need to drill and countersink holes for the transducers underneath in a way that wouldn't interfere with your pedals. That might be tricky.

Maybe the TST could be in the back and mounted offset a couple inches lower so you could reach the pedal bolts.

 

[stigs2cousin]

In a 12mm plate you could also drill and cut threads.

A normal " thread depth" shall be 1,5 x bolt thickness for full strength.
In this use case 1x should be enough, we don´t want to hang a Volkswagen from it.

MFG Carsten

 

[RCHeliguy]

I just found out that the holes are not 40mm apart and more like 35mm
However it would be OK to just use 40x40 or to use 80x40 and only bolt them along the top slot. Those side plates looks very sturdy, so I'm betting either would work fine.

If you look at my current brackets, they are only bolted to one slot.
Of course I'm only resting my heels on this plate and the pedals have a rigid mount to my frame.

 

[Atak_Kat]

Right or wrong, my approach was very simple. I have the pedals hard mounted, and then a heel rest in front. So all tactile comes through the heel rest, and the pedals remain solid without any flex or other issues. It's just an ikea cutting board, covered in vinyl (sorry, I should have wiped/cleaned it before the pic) Drilled and mounted to the front profile of the pedal tray with some rubber vibration dampers sandwiched between the board and the profile. The BK (mini) is at the front edge of the board, so you can see that there is some leverage and it will vibrate the entire heel rest. The board is solid and doesn't really move except when vibrated. Good enough for me, so far.

(Note, the round thumb screws at the edge of the board (near the pedals) are just to mount my Virpil pedals, when I go to flight mode. They are doing nothing in the pics below)

 

[No Depth]

Similarly my BK Advance is under my p1-x deck, with the vibrations felt under the heel area.

Dialing in the freq and gain helps keep it going out of control and traveling through the rig, but it’s a balancing act.

(Ignore the cable mess under the pedals as I’m still going through some upgrades this week and reworking the routing.)

 

[metalnwood]

I think the easiest thing you can do on that p1x pedal tray without needing more materials is to take the 160x40 rear section and turn it 90 degrees. So its hanging down presenting the 40mm edge. Thta gives you a 40mm crossmember to mount isolators on top and creates a large enough space between it and the 80x40 section thats at the front to hang your tactile.

 

[TyPolar]

I have a very similar setup. (P1X pedal tray with a BK Advance underneath; BK Gamer 2 attached to an NLR V3 motion seat under chair).

Since space is at a premium given my motion seat takes up most space under the seat, I have added Dayton pucks. 4 in the corners of my seat stuck to the bottom, and 2 additional in the lower back. 6 total or 8 transducers including the BKs on the rig.

For how small they are, they can be VERY effective at delivering good feelings that is absolutely felt separate from motion and the BK’s. They are especially fantastic for rumble strips and you can clearly make out the individual tires that roll over them moving front to back on whichever side is felt. Mixed with the heave of the seat mover, it’s one of my favorite effects of the rig to experience. It’s absolutely what most comment on too. Those little pucks.

Took a bit of time to dial all in and balance out so all work in concert together on a per game basis. Especially tricky with the two BKs that are of different power levels and feel(but just a few laps and some dialing in gain levels and I have it all working in tandem.

Indeed isolation for the P1X pedal deck is the biggest concern. My seat is decently isolated though, but that BK Advance can get out of hand if not kept in check on the pedal side(an LFE being a different beast too). I have my rig standing on Simlab feet with heavy duty machinery isolators(rubber and wood blocks) which seems to help, but I am careful not to let it go nuts. That being said, I am super impressed with the BK Advance and would absolutely upgrade my Gamer 2 as well…if there was a bracket to do so. The NLR V3 leaves little options there.

I’ll see if I can post pics soon if curious.

Thanks, I appreciate your help. Pics would be great.
I'm still in the process of building my frame. I purchased the P1-X pedal deck separately, mostly because I like the way it looks and the adjustability. I'm using 15 series profile and the P1-X pedal deck has about a 3/16" gap on each side, so I'm going to sandwich a 3/16" rubber sheet in between the pedal deck and horizontal side rails. I don't expect much in terms of isolation, but it'll be better than nothing till I get everything up and running.
I ordered my PT Actuators last night, so getting the motion working before isolation is a higher priority, but still important.

 

[TyPolar]

I'm in VR and have a G-belt behind my head and I'm on an NLRv3. All are fairly quiet, but they all make some noise. None of it bothers me in iRacing or Dirt Rally 2.0.

Thanks. I ordered my G-Belt in November. Haven't received it yet, but I'm looking forward to it.

 

[TyPolar]

Any tactile you add will complement the sfx/pt style of motion. I only have the 239's on the pedal tray and seat with one LFE on the seat as well.

You will find the combo of lfe and tst on the seat is very good and like others I dont notice the noise unless I am listening for the noise.

Isolating the p1 pedal tray will be a little bit determined by how you mount your pedals. The easiest way would be to have your pedals mounted to the top of a plate, the tactile mounted on the underside of that plate and an isolator of some sort in each corner that is attached to the p1 pedal tray. You would have to remove the center piece of the pedal trays 4040 to allow the tactile to hang down.

There are various options for isolators. Around here you will usually see something like the racebass isolators as well as this style of antivibration mount

4122 Male / Female | Hi-Q Components

www.hiq.co.nz

I have found the racebass work well on the seat but then preferred them in combination of the above style of mounts on the pedals.

The LFE/tst combo will give you something nice but you are also really going to like the motion, the one special thing about a platform mover is heave and the amount of force than can be felt when a platform suddenly drops and lifts when going over a change of surface. You will find that tactile can help enhance something like a rumble strip but then the motion really give you a kick in the pants if you mount the sausage kerb with stiff suspension.

Thanks, I appreciate it. Is there a specific isolator that worked best for your pedal tray?
I would buy the racebass isolators, but I can't wait till Christmas 2022.
What parts did you use to build your bassrace isolators?

 

[TyPolar]

Similarly my BK Advance is under my p1-x deck, with the vibrations felt under the heel area.

Dialing in the freq and gain helps keep it going out of control and traveling through the rig, but it’s a balancing act.

(Ignore the cable mess under the pedals as I’m still going through some upgrades this week and reworking the routing.)

View attachment 539270View attachment 539271View attachment 539272View attachment 539273View attachment 539274View attachment 539283

Thanks for the pics. Very nice rig!

 

[metalnwood]

Thanks, I appreciate it. Is there a specific isolator that worked best for your pedal tray?
I would buy the racebass isolators, but I can't wait till Christmas 2022.
What parts did you use to build your bassrace isolators?

I used these. You need 8 of these at $1.69 each

https://www.parts-express.com/Penn-Elcom-9106-Rubber-Cabinet-Foot-2.5-Dia.-x-1-H-260-772

and these springs - if you find the same model/make at a local source to you

Die Spring Red Heavy Load Rectangular Wire 25x38mm 9-25038-3/9-1606-26

Please match product code to table for specification. Product Documents die spring table.pdf

industrialtooling.co.nz

four of them.

You will find the easiest way to mount them is to get m8 threaded rod and cut to length as depending how you mount them, standard bolts may not work without cutting anyhow.

 

[John Bruno]

It's probably not the prettiest but very effective, also raises the pedal deck somewhat to mimic GT driving position. Heels and butt are on the same level. Advances installed directly to the plate in front id the 4080 profile.

 

[metalnwood]

It's probably not the prettiest but very effective, also raises the pedal deck somewhat to mimic GT driving position. Heels and butt are on the same level. Advances installed directly to the plate in front id the 4080 profile.

John, minor point but in this pic you want the rubber washer on top, not underneath the HE mounting barckets. This is because the harder you brake the stronger the connection you are going to make between the pedals and the 8020 below that you atr trying to isolate it from. Where you have the rubber washer, its doing noting to break up the hard contact between the different layers.

 

[John Bruno]

John, minor point but in this pic you want the rubber washer on top, not underneath the HE mounting barckets. This is because the harder you brake the stronger the connection you are going to make between the pedals and the 8020 below that you atr trying to isolate it from. Where you have the rubber washer, its doing noting to break up the hard contact between the different layers.

Good point. Noted. This was meant to be a temporary set up, but may well be longer term until i tear everything down to make room for motion.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

It's probably not the prettiest but very effective, also raises the pedal deck somewhat to mimic GT driving position. Heels and butt are on the same level. Advances installed directly to the plate in front id the 4080 profile.

Doesn't the whole thing move under hard braking. Looks wobbly.
Ideally you want pedals hard mounted and transducers under hoisted on isolators heel plate.

 

[John Bruno]

Doesn't the whole thing move under hard braking. Looks wobbly.
Ideally you want pedals hard mounted and transducers under hoisted on isolators heel plate.

I can confirm absolutely no movement what so ever. Completely solid. HE Ultimates, I like a heavy break, I can exert quite a bit of pressure under breaking and detect zero play, sponginess or movement of any sort.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

I can confirm absolutely no movement what so ever. Completely solid. HE Ultimates, I like a heavy break, I can exert quite a bit of pressure under breaking and detect zero play, sponginess or movement of any sort.

Interesting, so it's stable as a rock and at the same time provides isolation to prevent vibration escaping to the rig.
Usually you compromise one for another, with lightweight, comparing to seat with the driver, pedals, the spring should be pretty weak to have any vibration absorption effect.
I have read in this very thread some ditching race bass isolators for regular bobbins on pedals as stiff racebass were not good at isolating duties.

 

[John Bruno]

Interesting, so it's stable as a rock and at the same time provides isolation to prevent vibration escaping to the rig.
Usually you compromise one for another, with lightweight, comparing to seat with the driver, pedals, the spring should be pretty weak to have any vibration absorption effect.
I have read in this very thread some ditching race bass isolators for regular bobbins on pedals as stiff racebass were not good at isolating duties.

Stable... yes. No compromise? maybe not so. You can see from the pic, I have the springs cranked down pretty tight, this provides a very sturdy platform, but not without some compromise. It does a great job muting out most of the vibes from the platform but not quite as much as the set underneath the seat. I should lossen the front set up to see if there's a sweet spot.

 

[TyPolar]

It's probably not the prettiest but very effective, also raises the pedal deck somewhat to mimic GT driving position. Heels and butt are on the same level. Advances installed directly to the plate in front id the 4080 profile.

Are you able to distinguish the left and right channels with the BK Advances mounted next to each other?

 

[John Bruno]

Are you able to distinguish the left and right channels with the BK Advances mounted next to each other?

Not really, there is cross talk as they're both mounted to the same plate. Vibes come in strong especially around wheel slip as I have it configured in Simhub.
I have ordered the rumble motors kit for brake and accelerator by Sim 3D. Between Chip shortage, supply crunch, truck convoys and blocking borders, i'm hoping to see them some time in 2022.