Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

Thanks! Does it work with Microsoft Standard Driver or do I have to download the specific Vantec Software?

Just windows for me. Never touched any Vantec drivers.

All I did was plug in(windows detected as USB sound device automatically)and then instruct windows to make the USB soundcard output 7.1(it defaults to 2.0 in sound settings first plugging in, and Simhub will only see 2 channels unless you do this).

Also make sure to set your normal sound output device(headphones/speakers) as “default”(green checkmark) as windows will automatically switch to this USB card as default unless you make that change. Windows will remember all these settings so you need just do it once…unless you ever change USB inputs(like plug the soundcard into a diff USB socket which reassigns it).

Also think Startech makes an identical device and ive seen lots of ppl use and recommend that one as well as I researched before buying. (I went Vantec as it’s a black device and matches my rig).

After plugging in cables, I have 6 Dayton pucks and 2 bk’s running to it and simhub recognizes all 8 from this device for me to assign(2 per channel, so 4 cables to the soundcard). Obviously can’t speak to how it handles the heavier shakers some have here, but for my stuff it works great.
 
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If i wanted a simple/inexpensive 2 channel setup using a small amp such as the SMSL 98E and don't care about simulating Left/Right or Front/Right effects, should I go with 2 Aurasound bass shakers or just only 1 Aurasound shaker plus 1 (or 2?) Dayton Exciters? I understand the Dayton exciters can play a different (higher) frequency range than the bass shakers so I'm leaning towards the latter. I already have some tactile feedback via my Fanatec CSP v3s so I'm thinking of just adding to my seat. I'll make sure to isolate my seat from my rig, probably using some rubber bushings. Thoughts? Thanks
 
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If i wanted a simple/inexpensive 2 channel setup using a small amp such as the SMSL 98E and don't care about simulating Left/Right or Front/Right effects, should I go with 2 Aurasound bass shakers or just only 1 Aurasound shaker plus 1 (or 2?) Dayton Exciters? I understand the Dayton exciters can play a different (higher) frequency range than the bass shakers so I'm leaning towards the latter. I already have some tactile feedback via my Fanatec CSP v3s so I'm thinking of just adding to my seat. I'll make sure to isolate my seat from my rig, probably using some rubber bushings. Thoughts? Thanks
I would skip the Dayton small shakers option.
 
Hi, I apologize if this has already been covered. I gave it my best effort to read through the 267 pages lol.

I recently ordered 2 BK LFE (king size) and a NX3000D amp. I'll be mounting one LFE under the seat (Corbeau FX1) and the other LFE under my P1-X pedal tray. Musician's Friend is a great place to order Buttkickers. I got 15% off.

I'd like to get another transducer for my seat and pedal tray that'll compliment the LFE, but one that's not as audible as the TST transducers and Dayton DAEX34EP-4. I plan on going full motion this year (SFX or PT), so I'd like to avoid purchasing tactile that won't be felt after adding full motion.
Any recommendations?

Also, any solutions on isolating the P1-X pedal tray?


Thanks
 
Hi, I apologize if this has already been covered. I gave it my best effort to read through the 267 pages lol.

I recently ordered 2 BK LFE (king size) and a NX3000D amp. I'll be mounting one LFE under the seat (Corbeau FX1) and the other LFE under my P1-X pedal tray. Musician's Friend is a great place to order Buttkickers. I got 15% off.

I'd like to get another transducer for my seat and pedal tray that'll compliment the LFE, but one that's not as audible as the TST transducers and Dayton DAEX34EP-4. I plan on going full motion this year (SFX or PT), so I'd like to avoid purchasing tactile that won't be felt after adding full motion.
Any recommendations?

Also, any solutions on isolating the P1-X pedal tray?


Thanks

I got a TST-209 a while back and thought both that it was loud and that it didn't create much tactile. I wasn't using it right, but it also isn't very powerful.

However if you use a DSP to remove all the sound outside the tactile range and go with larger units like the 329 and 429, I've found them to both be fairly quiet and powerful making them a perfect compliment to the large BK's.
 
I believe that a good solution for the P1-X will be worked out in the next few months, but only time will tell.

My solution shown above is for a P1 with a very custom inverted pedal setup. I think the P1-X solution will end being much simpler.
 
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I got a TST-209 a while back and thought both that it was loud and that it didn't create much tactile. I wasn't using it right, but it also isn't very powerful.

However if you use a DSP to remove all the sound outside the tactile range and go with larger units like the 329 and 429, I've found them to both be fairly quiet and powerful making them a perfect compliment to the large BK's.
Thanks. Good to know that the TST can be somewhat quiet.

Is the TST 429 worth the extra money? I mostly play Dirt Rally 2, so quite a bit of road noise.

Can you hear your DAEX34EP-4 over the TST?
 
Hi, I apologize if this has already been covered. I gave it my best effort to read through the 267 pages lol.

I recently ordered 2 BK LFE (king size) and a NX3000D amp. I'll be mounting one LFE under the seat (Corbeau FX1) and the other LFE under my P1-X pedal tray. Musician's Friend is a great place to order Buttkickers. I got 15% off.

I'd like to get another transducer for my seat and pedal tray that'll compliment the LFE, but one that's not as audible as the TST transducers and Dayton DAEX34EP-4. I plan on going full motion this year (SFX or PT), so I'd like to avoid purchasing tactile that won't be felt after adding full motion.
Any recommendations?

Also, any solutions on isolating the P1-X pedal tray?


Thanks
I have a very similar setup. (P1X pedal tray with a BK Advance underneath; BK Gamer 2 attached to an NLR V3 motion seat under chair).

Since space is at a premium given my motion seat takes up most space under the seat, I have added Dayton pucks. 4 in the corners of my seat stuck to the bottom, and 2 additional in the lower back. 6 total or 8 transducers including the BKs on the rig.

For how small they are, they can be VERY effective at delivering good feelings that is absolutely felt separate from motion and the BK’s. They are especially fantastic for rumble strips and you can clearly make out the individual tires that roll over them moving front to back on whichever side is felt. Mixed with the heave of the seat mover, it’s one of my favorite effects of the rig to experience. It’s absolutely what most comment on too. Those little pucks.

Took a bit of time to dial all in and balance out so all work in concert together on a per game basis. Especially tricky with the two BKs that are of different power levels and feel(but just a few laps and some dialing in gain levels and I have it all working in tandem.

Indeed isolation for the P1X pedal deck is the biggest concern. My seat is decently isolated though, but that BK Advance can get out of hand if not kept in check on the pedal side(an LFE being a different beast too). I have my rig standing on Simlab feet with heavy duty machinery isolators(rubber and wood blocks) which seems to help, but I am careful not to let it go nuts. That being said, I am super impressed with the BK Advance and would absolutely upgrade my Gamer 2 as well…if there was a bracket to do so. The NLR V3 leaves little options there.

I’ll see if I can post pics soon if curious.
 
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Hi, I apologize if this has already been covered. I gave it my best effort to read through the 267 pages lol.

I recently ordered 2 BK LFE (king size) and a NX3000D amp. I'll be mounting one LFE under the seat (Corbeau FX1) and the other LFE under my P1-X pedal tray. Musician's Friend is a great place to order Buttkickers. I got 15% off.

I'd like to get another transducer for my seat and pedal tray that'll compliment the LFE, but one that's not as audible as the TST transducers and Dayton DAEX34EP-4. I plan on going full motion this year (SFX or PT), so I'd like to avoid purchasing tactile that won't be felt after adding full motion.
Any recommendations?

Also, any solutions on isolating the P1-X pedal tray?


Thanks
Any tactile you add will complement the sfx/pt style of motion. I only have the 239's on the pedal tray and seat with one LFE on the seat as well.

You will find the combo of lfe and tst on the seat is very good and like others I dont notice the noise unless I am listening for the noise.

Isolating the p1 pedal tray will be a little bit determined by how you mount your pedals. The easiest way would be to have your pedals mounted to the top of a plate, the tactile mounted on the underside of that plate and an isolator of some sort in each corner that is attached to the p1 pedal tray. You would have to remove the center piece of the pedal trays 4040 to allow the tactile to hang down.

There are various options for isolators. Around here you will usually see something like the racebass isolators as well as this style of antivibration mount

I have found the racebass work well on the seat but then preferred them in combination of the above style of mounts on the pedals.

The LFE/tst combo will give you something nice but you are also really going to like the motion, the one special thing about a platform mover is heave and the amount of force than can be felt when a platform suddenly drops and lifts when going over a change of surface. You will find that tactile can help enhance something like a rumble strip but then the motion really give you a kick in the pants if you mount the sausage kerb with stiff suspension.
 
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Has anyone actually have practical working solution for P1-X pedal tray that they can show?
 
Here is an idea. Run 80x40 lengthwise on each side and hang isolation on that.
It would need custom brackets to support the isolation so they were about 5mm above the top of the profile sides.

It might be worth running a 500mm piece of profile across the bottom of the chassis in front to help maintain rigidity since the foot plate was acting as a cross brace.

Can someone verify that the P1X pedal deck side plate slots are 40mm above the two holes?

If so I think this would basically work. You could then create a mount for your pedals. And if it was important you could create something removable so flight pedals could be mounted as well.

Ignore the boxy shape of the side plates. As long as the bolt holes line up. It should work. And yes I know the bolts are beveled, this was just a quick and dirty drawing.

footplatefrontangle.jpg

footplateside.jpg

FootPlateAngle.jpg
 
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Here is an idea. Run 80x40 lengthwise on each side and hang isolation on that.
It would need custom brackets to support the isolation so they were about 5mm above the top of the profile sides.

It might be worth running a 500mm piece of profile across the bottom of the chassis in front to help maintain rigidity since the foot plate was acting as a cross brace.

Can someone verify that the P1X pedal deck side plate slots are 40mm above the two holes?

If so I think this would basically work. You could then create a mount for your pedals. And if it was important you could create something removable so flight pedals could be mounted as well.

Ignore the boxy shape of the side plates. As long as the bolt holes line up. It should work. And yes I know the bolts are beveled, this was just a quick and dirty drawing.

View attachment 539138
View attachment 539139
View attachment 539137

That seems plausible. The side brackets use countersunk m8 bolts, so it shouldn’t be a problem twisting some profiles so they connect to the channels instead of the threaded ends.

I have the SimLab pedal slider kit in storage that I decided not to use, so I wonder if the big heavy plate It comes with can be used as a deck that sits above the isolators In this scenario. it is already designed for the pedals to mount and I don’t believe it runs across the Full length of the side brackets. Or rather it’s slimmer than the 500mm length that spans the chassis…I think.

I’ll have to go pull it out of storage and check, but if it’s pre-drilled mounting holes(for the sliders) can line up with the isolators in your mock-up, it would be a phenomenal solution.

Then of course sourcing the race bass solution, which I am still unclear on how to even go about that.
 
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It would be interesting to know the bolt holes on that slider.

However if the slider has any play, that would dampen some of the tactile out and could eventually loosen up and even rattle.
 
Oh I was thinking of not using the sliders. Just the pedal plate shown below. The four corner holes are used to mount to the sliders, but maybe could fit the isolators underneath instead in your scenario.

It is a real thick and heavy plate. 12mm thick I think. So not sure if the isolators on corner brackets horizontally bolted to profiles can support it firmly?

Pedal%20slider%20baseplate

Pedal%20slider%20baseplate
 
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