Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[worms14]

I use these shakers on my seat- they do a good job for the money

2 at the top
2 under the seat

Please leave more pics of how to attach the Dayton Puck, I am thinking of getting rid of the Realteus mat and I am thinking of installing Puck.
Do they make too much noise in the armchair and are it well perceptible?
Your sensations?
What do you drive them with?
I am thinking of 4 pieces.

 

[SIMGOAT]

Hi guys, I'm new in the world of vibrations, I recently downloaded bumps pee suspensions and have something more "realistic" but by activating it I have no input then I saw that the treshold is at 90/90/95 and that they are very high so the graph it is flat I read on the download post they were set but I don't know how to do it to get a good feedback I state that I have 2 rockwoods mounted one under the pedal board and the other under the seat, I understand the entey level equipment but if someone could help me there I would be grateful

 

[Glaucoso]

Thankyou, but I don't want to recreate a vibrating cushion, my idea is very different: The SRS video shows 4 bass shaker on the seat, but I'm thinking at 1 on the seat (sticked on the wood bottom with screws) and rumble motors on the pedals for a big (and more intuitive?) front/rear separation

Ok, after some days of testing I have to say that my original idea (motors on the pedals for front slip/lock and shaker on the seat for rear slip/lock) is not so good. Now I'm back at the original setting for the pedals (slip on the throttle, lock on the brake regardless of front/rear), and with the shaker under the chair doing some road vibration, rpms, jump landing et similia

 

[boern69]

@worms14

I simply use 3M pad to attach the shakers

btw here are some values for simhub for my install

simulate
speed by the pucks and
rpm is horizontal shakers behind the seat

 

[Juris]

Can anyone recommend a Nobsound type mini amp to replace my blown Buttkicker Gamer 2 amp, the notorious BKA-130-C. The amp is going to be strapped to the underside of my GT Omega Classic wheelstand pedal plate alongside the Gamer 2 transducer so it can't be a full sized amp like the BKA-300-4 powering my Advance BK4-4 attached to the back of the rig. Obviously it will have to be able to do 2ohm. I see a lot of these mini amps saying 4-8ohm or 4-16phm so don't want to get the wrong one & blown the transducer.

Heres the catch. I'm wondering can I transmit the audio data to the new amp via Bluetooth and split it to 2 devices at once. Many of these amps appear to have BT receivers on board. I also have a Subpac M2 music transducer strapped to the back of my Aeron chair. It uses BT or a 3.5mm line in for input. Can I run them from one split BT source and would the lag be a killer?

Has anyone tried this and if so how did it work out for you. Trying to limit cabling going to and from the wheelstand as much as possible. Cheers.

 

[Glaucoso]

[...]Obviously it will have to be able to do 2ohm. I see a lot of these mini amps saying 4-8ohm or 4-16phm so don't want to get the wrong one & blown the transducer.[...]

For what I know, if you connect a 4/8/16 Ohm amp to a 2 Ohm transducer, the risk is to blown the amp (the more the difference between the the things, the more the risk is).

 

[anton_Chez]

Running lower impedance speaker / bass shaker on a higher impedance amp will more than likely not end well for the amp. The other way around tends to be easily doable if you can deal with the power loss to the speaker.

Bluetooth for the Nobsound amps? I have one and I've NEVER gotten BT to work well within Windows on my PC. EVER. Not with headphones, earbuds, this amp, anything. I've tried a number of dongles and even a PCIe expansion card to add Bluetooth to the PC but it's always ended with me giving up on it. So I'd suggest a USB extension cable to the amp. You'll get to use the onboard sound card for it that way which will eliminate the need to connect it to another sound card within your PC which is how the 3.5mm line in AUX port will work.

I'm using a 100W Nobsound to power two BST-2 shakers and it seems plenty powerful for those. They are rated at 35W RMS so it seems like a nice fit. I actually bought them because I had the amp spare. But the 2ohm unit you're trying to power is going to be a little tricky to match an amp with, especially a mini amp.

 

[No Depth]

Can anyone recommend a Nobsound type mini amp to replace my blown Buttkicker Gamer 2 amp, the notorious BKA-130-C. The amp is going to be strapped to the underside of my GT Omega Classic wheelstand pedal plate alongside the Gamer 2 transducer so it can't be a full sized amp like the BKA-300-4 powering my Advance BK4-4 attached to the back of the rig. Obviously it will have to be able to do 2ohm. I see a lot of these mini amps saying 4-8ohm or 4-16phm so don't want to get the wrong one & blown the transducer.

Heres the catch. I'm wondering can I transmit the audio data to the new amp via Bluetooth and split it to 2 devices at once. Many of these amps appear to have BT receivers on board. I also have a Subpac M2 music transducer strapped to the back of my Aeron chair. It uses BT or a 3.5mm line in for input. Can I run them from one split BT source and would the lag be a killer?

Has anyone tried this and if so how did it work out for you. Trying to limit cabling going to and from the wheelstand as much as possible. Cheers.

I use a Nobsound G2(non-pro!) which works well for a replacement mini-amp for the Gamer 2. It is rated to support 2ohm, which the BK requires(the pro variant is 4-8ohm only which is why you dont want that). Just be careful not to max it’s volume as it can overheat the BK and cause it to go silent until it cools. Set at ~50% and I can use it for hours though.

Not tried BT(don’t think this even supports it), but I doubt it works well if it did.

 

[lofoscopico]

Greetings to all the members...
willing to mount two aditional exciters to my rig (sinus live), need to buy an amplifier... My choice relies on a 4 channel amp...
Right now i have two options...

the t.racks DSP 4x4 Mini Amp
​

​

​

and...

the t.amp E4-130


Which one should i buy?

Thank you in advance, for your replies...

 

[Peterpan6666]

I went with the Nobsound G2 Pro for my Gamer 2 amp replacement. Can’t comment on it further as have still to power it up. It’s for the front of the rig and I haven’t finished at the back yet. Just remember that claimed wattages on products are often way over estimated, which is why I went with the 300W model. It’s good to read that the 100W version seems to be powerful enough if it can overheat the transducer.

 

[No Depth]

I went with the Nobsound G2 Pro for my Gamer 2 amp replacement. Can’t comment on it further as have still to power it up. It’s for the front of the rig and I haven’t finished at the back yet. Just remember that claimed wattages on products are often way over estimated, which is why I went with the 300W model. It’s good to read that the 100W version seems to be powerful enough if it can overheat the transducer.

View attachment 534465

Only issue is that the BK Gamer 2 is rated at 2ohm. The G2 Pro amp supports only 4-8ohm speakers/shakers.
This is why the normal G2 is most recommended over the Pro, as the G2 is rated to support 2-8ohm.

You may find the Pro will power your Gamer 2, but it will likely lead to either overheating issues or failures possibly, to either the amp or BK. Don’t think you can just juice it with all that wattage…

Others are more knowledgeable here on just what could potentially happen, but keep that Amazon exchange policy in mind just in case.

 

[Peterpan6666]

Only issue is that the BK Gamer 2 is rated at 2ohm. The G2 Pro amp supports only 4-8ohm speakers/shakers.
This is why the normal G2 is most recommended over the Pro, as the G2 is rated to support 2-8ohm.

You may find the Pro will power your Gamer 2, but it will likely lead to either overheating issues or failures possibly, to either the amp or BK. Don’t think you can just juice it with all that wattage…

Others are more knowledgeable here on just what could potentially happen, but keep that Amazon exchange policy in mind just in case.

Thanks for pointing that out. I had initially chosen, then rejected this amp for that very reason and it was a couple of comments in the Amazon reviews that made me take the gamble. Two reviewers were using it to power 2 Ohm subs, one which said there was no distortion or overheating at high levels. I'll be keeping a close eye on to start with. In theory I should be able to get 150W @ 2 Ohms so it should perform better than the alternative which is 100W @ 2 Ohms. I'm also no expert and am happy to be corrected. I certainly wouldn't want to promote practices that could compromise people's safety at home.

 

[bells0]

Morning all. Dipping my toes into bass shakers. Bought the seemingly budget option of the nobsound mini amp and X2 6ohm Dayton pucks.

My GT Omega racing seat has springs under the seat that allow the pucks to be slotted in between so nice and close to my behind, although you can feel them, so takes away a little rear end comfort.....

Anyone else just running a rear/butt only set up with ACC? Quick session yesterday with sim hub. I've tried to keep it simple with low value rpm along side: gear shift, road impact and road vibrations. Gear shifts feel great, but not convinced by the road impacts/vibrations, doesn't seem to really work well over kerbs etc [test was only done at Brands as have a league race there tonight].

Any tips on above, and for the Dayton pucks, what hz value should be selected? Cheers! [plan is to add to pedals if i feel this works]

 

[stigs2cousin]

As the pucks are not very powerfull and don´t go low enough to really give road bumps my suggestion would be to switch from immersion to car feedback.

A little engine vibration in the pits is nice, maybe use it in the top of the rev range as a "shift buzzer"?
What i found usefull is a wheel slip feedback for the rear, as you can only hear your wheels or see the rotation ( which is to late.)
Even if you catch the rear you´ll have lost a lot of time.
So if you train yourself to recognise a certain vibration as beginning wheel slip you can feather the throttle before the rear is in the armco.

And maybe you can bolt the puck to a board and shove that under the springs?
The pressure to your "driving dynamics sensor" and the vibrations will be spread to a larger area which could be more comfortable, maybe even give better feedback??

As for the pedals, I use a exciter on the brake for brake lock which I find quite usefull.

Do you know gamer Muscle´s video about that:

MFG Carsten

 

[No Depth]

Thanks for pointing that out. I had initially chosen, then rejected this amp for that very reason and it was a couple of comments in the Amazon reviews that made me take the gamble. Two reviewers were using it to power 2 Ohm subs, one which said there was no distortion or overheating at high levels. I'll be keeping a close eye on to start with. In theory I should be able to get 150W @ 2 Ohms so it should perform better than the alternative which is 100W @ 2 Ohms. I'm also no expert and am happy to be corrected. I certainly wouldn't want to promote practices that could compromise people's safety at home.

Definitely update with your testing, as horror stories led me to go with the Nobsound G2, but would like to hear how you find the 'Pro' works. (I'm actually debating dumping the amp and Gamer 2 entirely and getting a bigger BK as many recommend, but I am not decided yet)

Also bear in mind that you will be a bit stifled in power due to the amp providing you a 19v power supply. The Amp supports PSU's up to 24v, so even though its rated to 300w, I think you may need to upgrade the power supply to see the full benefits. I've been meaning to do that with mine for awhile(also still using the 19v 4.5A included), though not sure if it REALLY is additive at all by jumping to 24v. I'm no expert on any of this.

Morning all. Dipping my toes into bass shakers. Bought the seemingly budget option of the nobsound mini amp and X2 6ohm Dayton pucks.

My GT Omega racing seat has springs under the seat that allow the pucks to be slotted in between so nice and close to my behind, although you can feel them, so takes away a little rear end comfort.....

Anyone else just running a rear/butt only set up with ACC? Quick session yesterday with sim hub. I've tried to keep it simple with low value rpm along side: gear shift, road impact and road vibrations. Gear shifts feel great, but not convinced by the road impacts/vibrations, doesn't seem to really work well over kerbs etc [test was only done at Brands as have a league race there tonight].

Any tips on above, and for the Dayton pucks, what hz value should be selected? Cheers! [plan is to add to pedals if i feel this works]

I have four of the same Dayton pucks under my seat(attached with 3m direct to the fiberglass bottom though), and I feel those kerbs and road effects very well, set them up as four corners(tires) and its pretty great. Also just stuck a fifth one near my shoulders on the back of the chair and it shakes me like hell.

I wonder if the springs you tuck them in are not as direct and absorbing some of the vibrations. I do notice these things really depend on being solidly mounted to a surface to work effectively.

 

[bells0]

Made some tweaks to the Hz levels and went straight into my race at Brands last night, and tbh, the 2 pucks worked great! Was a 60 min race, so little time to think with it being Brands, but the sensation of the road vibrations and gear shifts definately made for a more immersive experience!

Do these little pucks need a bit of running in time?

Deffo going to look into sorting something for my pedals. I have DC Sim racing pedals from Spain [H Sprint copies almost], they make their own exciters for around £80. Which wouldn't be far off buying another Nobsound amp and x 2 more pucks. Decisons, decisons..........

 

[cnhoff]

For anyone interested, i have added some additional isolation to my rig to decouple it from the floor, applying the known rubber and spring concept and adding some additional layer of foam and rubber material for an even better result.

As shown earlier in this thread, my seat and pedal plates are already very well isolated by the same spring and rubber solutions, but my wife put some additional requirements out for me and my nightly driving sessions

The rig sits on 4 of those "towers". The black material in the middle is a 100x100x19mm MDF plate to provide some room for the screw head.

So far i am really happy with the results, i had no complaints from my wife anymore those springs are really stiff for a suitable resonance frequency at maximum stability, there is a tiny bit of a "springy" feeling when entering the rig, but it can hardly he felt in all other conditions.

 

[stigs2cousin]

That "springy feeling" can even add to the immersion as the whole rig comes to life and starts moving with the tactile feedback ( and my steering efforts )

Could you give us the spring stiffness of the parts you used?

Thanks Carsten

 

[cnhoff]

That "springy feeling" can even add to the immersion as the whole rig comes to life and starts moving with the tactile feedback ( and my steering efforts )

Could you give us the spring stiffness of the parts you used?

Thanks Carsten

Believe me, springy is really not the right term...you are feeling it is not bolted to the floor if you rock it hard.

These are around 250 N/mm.

 

[Alvaro de la Orden]

A little engine vibration in the pits is nice, maybe use it in the top of the rev range as a "shift buzzer"?

Regarding this, I like to tune the rpm effect curve response so it only works from 0-4000 rpm, which is about pit limiter max rpm.
Hence standing on pits or waiting for rolling start to begin, feels amazing, but when racing, it hardly kicks in. I find it distracting, others may appreciate a wider working rpm range.