Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Mr Latte]

Update:
I have a set of files ready for owners of iNuke DSP or NXD Amps that own large BK Units.
Contact me via PM. I want to personally chat with each user trying these.

Good News:
I can confirm that all we have to do is rename the saved amp profiles from the iNuke amps ".arp" to ".nxp" so that they work with the NXD models. So we can easily share amp profiles across both models.

So by loading my saved amp profile (the one I have been testing with). These settings applied to the amps, that really help to push the lowest frequencies. Users will find the below effects are quite extreme and on an entirely different level to what most people experience. This is pushing the very lowest bass as best we can gents and using some of the best units on the market.

Extreme RPM:
After months of testing, I would submit that this "test example" using only 3 layers could indeed better how RPM feels compared to most people's effects efforts and even alternatives like Simvibe offer. I say this as a bold statement but one I am confident with, based on the performance these offer.

Why & How:
The cockpit of a car can be a rather violent environment. Vibration from some engines can be powerful in its energy and comprising of very low bass. We do not get close to representing this with the entry level hardware. Its not a volume thing as such but more to do with the proper representation of the energy and feel the lowest bass frequencies output.

By using the "RPM Response Curve" feature in Simhub, it enables specific tailoring for RPM character.
It is actually very good but care is also needed as small changes in it can make big differences to the output. Once a user begins to grasp using it more, it enables us to create very different RPM character for different cars if we want and this is something I presume most reading this will underestimate.

Possibilities:
We can apply individual layers for specific elements within the RPM range that we want. I will refer to these as "Sensation Events" In this test example I have highlighted three events. "Low RPM Torque", "Mid-High RPM Boost" and "Max RPM Limit".

With the careful utilization of deep bass that is applied, users will experience a very nice range of immersion in both depth and varied energy as we use specific Hz based on their particular feel and characteristics they offer. Its important how Hz sync with different layers and taking into account that even individual Hz alterations can work towards making an effect feell better or worse based on the Hz used with other layers.

So during the experimentation, this has not just been willy nilly punch in a few digits for Hz, hope for the best, give it a run and making do if it feels not too bad. Absolutely not, as a lot of time/effort and care was put towards shaping the felt character and feel for each "Event" over the RPM range to create/shape a character desired for each "Sensation Event" across the RPM operation. This is why it is important that people use the correct hardware and amp settings (tested with) to ensure they achieve the same immersion as intended.

*I have decided to place a warning with these effects, due to the level of energy potential they have when used with the shared amp settings. They could induce headaches or discomfort if ran with high volumes.

Tactile Community - Now It Is Your Turn:
Don't be shy guys, I want people to give their own opinions on these be it to applaud or criticise. Some of you have invested quite a bit of money into this hardware, so its time to give your feedback and share that with others. Also this is a way to highlight or showcase some of the creativity and experimentation I have been doing with effects towards what is possible with the high-end hardware. Others may be relying on you to give additional opinions and I don't want people just relying on my own.

It is worth noting that how the software is used for effects can make quite a difference and thats what people testing can do to compare these shared examples to what they have previously tried or experienced.


*These effects have not been shared before....

 

[Mr Latte]

I hooked up the BK-LFE's yesterday (stereo - isolated seat - NX3000D). I did just a couple quick tests to make sure they were working via the tone generator. My rig wasn't rattling at all, at 10 hz. But the door to my office was lol, even worse at like 17. I traded them with two Aura's and left the settings the same (tuned for Aura's) and wow. Then I did a little dub-step tuning and dropped the bass. Holy rusted metal batman!

I have to completely retune now, but dayum. I understand why Latte discards idea's of cheap tactile. That's not to say it wont work, or be enjoyable at all. But once you get a feel for what the BK-LFE's can give...it IS a totally different experience. And that was with it turned down...WAY down. 12'oclocks on the amp, and 1% in simhub. that is NOT a typo 1%. Like I said, it is not tuned at all - I should have toned down the amp, but I couldn't reach it and had the mouse so I changed simhub. It was still throwing me around!

There is a downfall though. I only have the ability to put two exciters on my seat...they stood out ok with the Aura's on the seat. Maybe I was just so amazed by the low hz I was feeling, but they kind of disappeared for the most part. Time to retune.

The test above is primarily for the large Buttkickers to showcase the abilities they have with low frequencies.
My amp settings being shared uses settings to help it operate over the higher Hz too, as some people may be using only a BK unit. As its an RPM test I ensured the BK would operate well over the 100Hz frequency range.

What I need is people like you on your own rigs to then work with me towards using a more suitable crossover for the BK/Exciter combo installation. I want to get people's own feedback on what works or feels good to them?

We can reduce the Hz range the large BK work upto, for example, 45Hz.
Then use the exciters to operate from @40Hz - 150Hz or higher but having a 5-10Hz degree of overlap.

Only in testing will the user determine what they think feels more suited to their own preferences. Its not for me to tell people exactly what to use but guide them into how/what they can use the hardware and creativity with effects as well as how we distribute them.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Just had this suggested for transducer use and it looks like a great deal!
6 channels of 125W per channel for $150 and handles 4ohm loads.
Think I might have picked up one of these instead of my current amp and to add a couple channels easily.

The only weird thing about it is that you can only connect 4 RCA channels in back and then would need the last two plugged in front using 1/4 jacks.

Whoops bad recomendation!

"Pyle PTA62BT Compact 750W 6-Ch. Stereo Receiver System with Bluetooth FM Radio MP3 USB SD AUX" from www.parts-express.com!

Pyle PTA62BT Compact 750W 6-Ch. Stereo Receiver System with Bluetooth FM Radio MP3 USB SD AUX

www.parts-express.com

 

[Mr Latte]

Just had this suggested for transducer use and it looks like a great deal!
6 channels of 125W per channel for $150 and handles 4ohm loads.
Think I might have picked up one of these instead of my current amp and to add a couple channels easily.

"Pyle PTA62BT Compact 750W 6-Ch. Stereo Receiver System with Bluetooth FM Radio MP3 USB SD AUX" from www.parts-express.com!

Pyle PTA62BT Compact 750W 6-Ch. Stereo Receiver System with Bluetooth FM Radio MP3 USB SD AUX

www.parts-express.com

Please be careful making recommendations for amps or recommendations made by others.

Pyle is not a highly praised brand in general quality but the problem with that as with most modern AV amps is they limit the analog inputs to only offer 2 channel RCA style connection.

So while it has more than one input source and it amplifies multiple channels it does not offer 6 discrete analog input channels. Yet with our usage case scenario, we need them. We need to be able to select a source input on the amp that connects 6 or more channels as a single source.

Most AV amps these days do not offer "Multichannel Inputs" that was originally intended for SACD and DTS decoders (Laser Disc Era) as HDMI made it redundant.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'll admit it seems a bit too good to be true.
Way too many capabilities for $150.
It does look like you can only switch between stereo inputs

Sorry for wasting people's time.

 

[Mr Latte]

Its a good example of how people can easily make purchases that are not ideal for what we are doing.

If wanting to go that approach Yamaha & Sony legacy models found cheap on ebay can be used with budget tactile.

The main requirements are that the amp supports 4ohm (not all do) and
that it has Multichannel Inputs. Its been mentioned here several times.

 

[Michal Burisin]

Hey, I have been in a sleep mode (no racing / building / tuning) for a long time - too much work and other hobbies. Now I have quite a lot of time on my hands, so my rig (link here) is finally going through redesign process.

I have now decided to do proper preparation - first model everything until satisfied, only after that comes realization. I'm redesigning rig to add motion - SFX100. I already have implemented G-Seat (link here).

On top of that, the rig carries 6x BK Concert, 2x TST239, powered by 3x iNuke DSP3000 + 1x inuke DSP1000.

I remodeled my seat / pedals in Fusion with all the tactile attached.





And it will come onto this new rig which I'm designing right now (already put some custom CNCed parts on order):



In the process I created models for BK Concert and TST239.





If anybody would be interested, I can share these files. When I started with tactile, I was thinking a lot about tactile units placement / isolation etc. with relation to rig and how much space is there available etc. I was doing prototyping in ad hoc manner and spent lot of time / money in the process. If I designed it bottom up like this, it would have saved me a lot of trouble .

Without doing a poll, A question to people in this thread to get general feedback. What do people want to see first or most? Let me know here or via PM. Im going to wait a week to see who bothers to respond and consider things.

1. More on my own build with a dedicated thread
2. Unofficial Simhub thread that covers it in detail and with discussion/queries
3. RD Forums to have a new "Tactile" section and that then have individual threads for topics/guides etc
4. A Youtube channel that specializes on all things "tactile & audio" that are sim related
5. Something else, tell me....

Since I finished G-Seat, I spent some time with tuning its profiles and actual racing and now I moved to redesigning rig, I'm not sure what I enjoy more, building or racing, I suspect it's the first one .

Anyway since I set up the profiles for the tactile, I haven't been doing work on it for a long time.

I use SimVibe for engine effects, bumps and gearshifts and SimShaker wheels for acceleration forces and wheel slip.

On recommendation from Mr Latte, I downloaded the SimHub, opened it, looked at it and closed it very soon without trying, the settings looked really complex and I really didn't understand what's going on in there . Since then, I unfortunately haven't got time to look at it again. Now I have some more time so I'm gonna try again, because the SimVibe & SimShakers combo is really tedious to operate.

From @Mr Latte list, I would find most interesting:

2. Unofficial Simhub thread that covers it in detail and with discussion/queries

and then

1. More on my own build with a dedicated thread

to finally see some progress with your build .

For SimHub thread, maybe some general info how to tune profiles could be really useful, I still need to look into the software, to understand what's going on in there.

For example, I was using process for tuning bumps like this:

1) add big bumps, find some big bumps on track, tune until satisfied
2) add next layer (slightly smaller bumps), test individualy, test together with previous layer until satisfied, move onto the next layer

In SimVibe, this was pretty straightforward, as I understood the concept .

In SimHub, I really don't understand anything, maybe there is some help I should read somewhere .

Update:
I have a set of files ready for owners of iNuke DSP or NXD Amps that own large BK Units.
Contact me via PM. I want to personally chat with each user trying these.

Good News:
I can confirm that all we have to do is rename the saved amp profiles from the iNuke amps ".arp" to ".nxp" so that they work with the NXD models. So we can easily share amp profiles across both models.

So by loading my saved amp profile (the one I have been testing with). These settings applied to the amps, that really help to push the lowest frequencies. Users will find the below effects are quite extreme and on an entirely different level to what most people experience. This is pushing the very lowest bass as best we can gents and using some of the best units on the market.

Extreme RPM:
After months of testing, I would submit that this "test example" using only 3 layers could indeed better how RPM feels compared to most people's effects efforts and even alternatives like Simvibe offer. I say this as a bold statement but one I am confident with, based on the performance these offer.

Why & How:
The cockpit of a car can be a rather violent environment. Vibration from some engines can be powerful in its energy and comprising of very low bass. We do not get close to representing this with the entry level hardware. Its not a volume thing as such but more to do with the proper representation of the energy and feel the lowest bass frequencies output.

By using the "RPM Response Curve" feature in Simhub, it enables specific tailoring for RPM character.
It is actually very good but care is also needed as small changes in it can make big differences to the output. Once a user begins to grasp using it more, it enables us to create very different RPM character for different cars if we want and this is something I presume most reading this will underestimate.

Possibilities:
We can apply individual layers for specific elements within the RPM range that we want. I will refer to these as "Sensation Events" In this test example I have highlighted three events. "Low RPM Torque", "Mid-High RPM Boost" and "Max RPM Limit".

With the careful utilization of deep bass that is applied, users will experience a very nice range of immersion in both depth and varied energy as we use specific Hz based on their particular feel and characteristics they offer. Its important how Hz sync with different layers and taking into account that even individual Hz alterations can work towards making an effect feell better or worse based on the Hz used with other layers.

So during the experimentation, this has not just been willy nilly punch in a few digits for Hz, hope for the best, give it a run and making do if it feels not too bad. Absolutely not, as a lot of time/effort and care was put towards shaping the felt character and feel for each "Event" over the RPM range to create/shape a character desired for each "Sensation Event" across the RPM operation. This is why it is important that people use the correct hardware and amp settings (tested with) to ensure they achieve the same immersion as intended.

*I have decided to place a warning with these effects, due to the level of energy potential they have when used with the shared amp settings. They could induce headaches or discomfort if ran with high volumes.

Tactile Community - Now It Is Your Turn:
Don't be shy guys, I want people to give their own opinions on these be it to applaud or criticise. Some of you have invested quite a bit of money into this hardware, so its time to give your feedback and share that with others. Also this is a way to highlight or showcase some of the creativity and experimentation I have been doing with effects towards what is possible with the high-end hardware. Others may be relying on you to give additional opinions and I don't want people just relying on my own.

It is worth noting that how the software is used for effects can make quite a difference and thats what people testing can do to compare these shared examples to what they have previously tried or experienced.


*These effects have not been shared before....

I'll be more than happy to test it and give back the feedback, if you would like to share these amps / simhub settings with me.

I'll be however be able to give back feedback only with relation what I have been using so far - SimVibe with BK transfering with higher frequencies into TST239.

I have ended up using the basic engine effect, as the advanced SimVibe effects didn't allow to map the outgoing frequency to RPM. In low frequencies, the advanced effect of simulating V8, V10 etc. felt nice, but was useless for higher frequencies - it went too high and I didn't feel anything.

Because of that, I use basic engine effect mapped to RPM going from 5 Hz to 72 Hz.

BK setup:



Lot of gain, on AMP 3 o'clock position. Not sure, why it needs so much gain. But feels smooth.

On BK, I was never able to feel much above 50 Hz. If it is running in these higher frequencies too much, it overheats quickly. I even used parametric EQ to do further boost to higher frequencies.

TST setup:



This pretty crazy profile for TST gives feel of "smoothly" raising frequency which ends around 72 Hz with strongest feeling - my cue for shifting.

I have spent on these profiles quite a lot of work actually, but maybe I got it all wrong, the warning you put into your profiles make me wonder.

I think the tactile I get out of Concert + TST239 for engine feels nice, but I was never able to achieve anything you write in the warning (eardrum / brain shaking, to take care of leaning head onto headrest etc.). Maybe I have something not set up right.

Or maybe I got too soft suspension? The tactile energy is mostly transformed to movement on soft suspension, at one point, the Concert just starts to bottom out, so I'm keeping just below that point. It moves the seat quite a bit, but certainly my brain is not melting .

I'll probably just ditch the SimVibe + SSW combo and start over fresh. I think I'll have to start from scratch even with these amp settings. And I will probably cancel the the mixing of the channels for front / back stereo, it was allright, when there was no option for me to run just one software, but it's really not worth it anymore, especially when SimHub can handle all the tactile alone.

 

[bassun]

Mr Latte et al -- I actually just started playing with RPM's a bit -- this is where it is at so far for the BKMini under my pedals, and the exciters. My goal was to get a basic buzz going at idle, nothing too noticeable. No, it's not 100% realistic but it was annoying me when I had it just sitting there lol. This is tuned to use the BKmini's peaks of 118, 83, and minor peak of 70. (Note: I have turned off ALL RPM's to everything else ATM)

I start at 150 and leave it toned down so you don't get a constant heavy buzz. Then as you speed up it picks up in intensity as it closes in on the 118 peak, then as you round out it backs off until you start closing in on redline. As you approach red you are getting around that 83hz peak and it ramps up intensity, alot. Just after passing the first of three red overlimit indicators (iRacing MX-5) it pushes into the 70hz range and feels different.

I know it probably sounds odd to decrease Hz to represent higher RPM's, but it just felt like the engine was straining more by reversing it. I was going to copy that effect and see if I could replicate the flow to hit the exciter peaks, but I lost my notes on their peaks lol. But even running the same effect they felt pretty good. Again, this is just running to the BKmini and 4 exciters off two seperate Nob 20G's over 3 channels. Two on seat (only mount option) and 2 under wheel. (which I've decided is a problem)

So, maybe I missed it in the manual - but I've decided Exciters like horizontal, not vertical. The ones mounted horizontally live a happy life. The ones vertical (upside down or right side up) both end up clanging on the surface. I have to pull those two off. I may try mounting them opposite of the two I have mounted on the seat and put them out of phase and see if they help increase amplitude or not.

Again, not a perfect and done product, but this is my starting point for those.

 

[bassun]

Latte - as soon as I get the exciters settled and the TST installed (only one) I will ping you to get some testing with you. I just don't want to waste your time while I am still making a lot of changes to the components. I will probably skip any DSP tuning before hand so I am able to really see the difference.

 

[Mr Latte]

@Michal Burisin

Hi, thanks for sharing nice to see you back at it. Can you also show me your BK units PEQ settings.
One issue to try and resolve with different people is this output power factor. Man, I have crazy intensity from my BK units with 2x large Concerts only on a DSP1000 model so not even the more powerful 3000 or 6000. The amps knob levels are at 2PM (input gain)

Now, I do have my tactile being routed via HA6000 and at the moment also a digital interface.
So while I have the volume input controls for these lowered to try and remove any additional gain, I suspect they may be increasing the gain going into the amps as well.

I need to check if the XR18 has some setting that is boosting the output level which is happening after my monitoring of the frequencies so I won't see it via the monitoring as it may be boosting the output level from the digital interface/mixer.

Even if it was doing this then increasing the knobs on the amp would achieve the same thing, then use the gain levels in the crossover to reduce the "output level" to the desired amount. We need to sort this difference between my and other peoples setups.

Looking at your amp settings it appears you are ramping the output gain to the limits but with a sharp curve (48db) like a cliff at the end. So what your doing is boosting all the Hz and in the example with the TST then vastly cutting specific Hz. I noticed that the Hz you are cutting most are Hz that the unit will peak more with based on its operating character. So with the TST you seem to be cranking the gain but then taking it away again from the frequencies the unit is usually stronger with, err it if that makes sense.

So I am curious to see your BK PEQ settings used to see if you were doing similar with them.
Send me a PM we will get the amp settings and RPM test files sent over.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'm thinking of using the following to suspend my 1/4" aluminum foot plate with two Auras mounted underneath each foot. My hope is that this would allow for the transducers to move better.

The key to this is that I want to use the sorbothane as a sandwich to make the motion easier and to suspend the aluminum plate rather than having a rigid connection on top of the plate.

M8 55mm bolt ( threw the following )
3/8"x 1.25" rubber washer 1/8" thick
30 durometer sorbothane 1/2" x 1.5" 1/2" thick
1/4" aluminum plate
30 durometer sorbothane 1/2" x 1.5" 1/2" thick
3/8"x 1.25" rubber washer 1/8" thick
8020 corner brace
lock washer
nut

The bolts are out far enough so this would not interfere with my feet.

Sorbothane

Amazon.com

rubber washer

Amazon.com: Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973211851 211851 Rubber Washer, 3/8 x 1-1/4", 8: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973211851 211851 Rubber Washer, 3/8 x 1-1/4", 8: Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

SS 55mm M8 bolts

Amazon.com: M8-1.25 x 55mm Button Head Socket Cap Screws Bolts, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Full Thread, Bright Finish, Quantity 10: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: M8-1.25 x 55mm Button Head Socket Cap Screws Bolts, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Full Thread, Bright Finish, Quantity 10: Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

I realize the 30 durometer Sorbothane is pretty soft. There would be 5 1.5" rings supporting the foot plate which have an 8-11 lb weight rating each. I'm hoping that 40-55lb lbs would be enough for something my feet are resting on.

Thoughts ?

 

[bassun]

I'm thinking of using the following to suspend my 1/4" aluminum foot plate with two Auras mounted underneath each foot. My hope is that this would allow for the transducers to move better.


I realize the 30 durometer Sorbothane is pretty soft. There would be 5 1.5" rings supporting the foot plate which have an 8-11 lb weight rating each. I'm hoping that 40-55lb lbs would be enough for something my feet are resting on.

Thoughts ?

I have not thought through it all, but the first thing that popped in my head is hard breaking. I would be very calculating towards any movement as it will throw off your braking. Especially if you run something hard like a load cell.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I have not thought through it all, but the first thing that popped in my head is hard breaking. I would be very calculating towards any movement as it will throw off your braking. Especially if you run something hard like a load cell.

That is obviously important.
Currently I have inverted pedals and my heel just barely stays on the plate under harder braking, but under trail braking I'm not so sure...

I could chose a hybrid option that keeps the existing single front center support the way it is now with the motor isolator and just replace the 4 edge pieces. That should keep the center of the plate rigid and might actually be a good compromise to help keep the current stereo separation that I have right now.

I think I may like that idea better for improved stereo separation and holding the plate in place near the brake pedal.

 

[Mr Latte]

Mark, two plates with multiple basic isolators and the support sections for these from each side.
This way avoiding a horizontal bridge support section that lets the vibes from each side mingle. I showed you a rough concept of this in your own thread. I guess its finding a way you can run with that but I think its the best way to go for separate plates.

Multiple softer isolators may be okay as they will balance the weight giving some depression but maybe not that much that it would be too mushy under heavy braking. The alternative is using hard isolators like the TI 100 and TI 200 options. (search thread)

 

[Mr Latte]

Regards the current tests, I have disconnected my additional hardware.

The power issue is not related to my additional hardware. If anything it was reducing it a little but what I did have running was a crossover via the iPad and ProQ3 and this was altering the higher Hz feeling.

So its best for any effects I share from here in to test them with direct from soundcard-amp as this will better represent what others have. Keep in mind crossovers are useful for the desired sensation. If you alter the slope of the filter you will better control/reduce the harmonics which may improve the felt sensations.


Blue Vs Orange = These give very different outputs using the same effects.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Mark, two plates with multiple basic isolators and the support sections for these from each side.
This way avoiding a horizontal bridge support section that lets the vibes from each side mingle. I showed you a rough concept of this in your own thread. I guess its finding a way you can run with that but I think its the best way to go for separate plates.

Multiple softer isolators may be okay as they will balance the weight giving some depression but maybe not that much that it would be too mushy under heavy braking. The alternative is using hard isolators like the TI 100 and TI 200 options. (search thread)

Thanks for the feedback.

I understand, but haven't found a way to make a separate plate solution work on my rig, while still being able to convert it to a flight rig. Sadly flexibility sometimes comes at a cost. Maybe I'll come up with a better solution eventually. I doubt I'm done thinking about it.

 

[gnoshme]

Mr Latte et al -- I actually just started playing with RPM's a bit -- this is where it is at so far for the BKMini under my pedals, and the exciters. My goal was to get a basic buzz going at idle, nothing too noticeable. No, it's not 100% realistic but it was annoying me when I had it just sitting there lol. This is tuned to use the BKmini's peaks of 118, 83, and minor peak of 70. (Note: I have turned off ALL RPM's to everything else ATM)

I start at 150 and leave it toned down so you don't get a constant heavy buzz. Then as you speed up it picks up in intensity as it closes in on the 118 peak, then as you round out it backs off until you start closing in on redline. As you approach red you are getting around that 83hz peak and it ramps up intensity, alot. Just after passing the first of three red overlimit indicators (iRacing MX-5) it pushes into the 70hz range and feels different.

I know it probably sounds odd to decrease Hz to represent higher RPM's, but it just felt like the engine was straining more by reversing it. I was going to copy that effect and see if I could replicate the flow to hit the exciter peaks, but I lost my notes on their peaks lol. But even running the same effect they felt pretty good. Again, this is just running to the BKmini and 4 exciters off two seperate Nob 20G's over 3 channels. Two on seat (only mount option) and 2 under wheel. (which I've decided is a problem)

So, maybe I missed it in the manual - but I've decided Exciters like horizontal, not vertical. The ones mounted horizontally live a happy life. The ones vertical (upside down or right side up) both end up clanging on the surface. I have to pull those two off. I may try mounting them opposite of the two I have mounted on the seat and put them out of phase and see if they help increase amplitude or not.

Again, not a perfect and done product, but this is my starting point for those.

View attachment 358270

Interesting. I played with RPM for a couple of hours yesterday and ended up with 4 different modules doing different things to different zones. I really it's ability to play a huge roll when sitting at idle, but then just disappear from the mix above that and not get in the way of what shakers are doing at speed. Note.. I think of my setup now in terms of "zones" and describe it accordingly. Some are stereo, some are mono.. it's just a simple way to communicate. I have something like:

1) RPM Low
A 15hz signal going to the BK Mini in my neck/upper back zone. The curve is set that it pushes out a lot at idle, then disappears.

2) RMP Medium
A 20hz signal going to butt and pedalboard only at idle.

Between 1 & 2, I can sit at idle and feel a really glorious thrum of the engine, and the two interact to give me a pseudo 5hz effect as they phase in and out from each other.

3) RPM Redline
I have this on my pedalboard and back zones at around 40hz (I think), but only triggered right a the top of the rev range. It simulates the engine hitting off the rev limiter.

4) RPM Zing
Now I"m going to have to play around with this again based on what you've done and try the same approach as I'm trying to use it in the same way. I just had a fairly uniform curve building up in intensity over the rev range putting it through my butt / thigh zone and also to the pedal board. I think around 120hz.

I always know I'm on to something when I get to the end and I go into a zombie like state and drive the living snot out of a car.

I'm definitely struggling simulating "Speed". The "Speed with Cornering" I have layered in well but haven't found a great way to add the sensation of speed itself. The RPM Zing is the best so far. I've tried "Speed" and "Simulated Road Surface" but find it hard to dial something in I really like that feels good, and doesn't drive others within earshot insane which the straight speed does. I still have Simulated Road Service going somewhere right now.. different zone from RPM Zing.

What am I missing? Is there a module where the signal frequency varies over speed as well as amptitude? Feels like I'd like to try that. The "Speed" module is just like a growing annoying whine to me. I bought an Arduino and various things a while back but haven't taken it out of the box. Might play with fans but driving for hours is hard enough on the eyes already without a breeze.

 

[bassun]

Gnoshme -- I actually played with it some more (not at the pc so can't grab the numbers at the moment) but i actually changed the wave up again (and frequencies)... pretty significantly. Still just focused on the seat, I wanted to keep the pedals open for slip/lock.

Again, this is tuned SPECIFICALLY for the MX5 on iRacing ( I know...everyone is playing with ACC, but I'm racing in iRacing so...)

On the seat I have: 2 Stereo BK-LFE (NOT used for RPM at all), BKG2, TST209, 2 Stereo Exciters.
At idle, I have them all just to basically do nothing. There is a slight buzz, but basically nothing.
As you begin revving up it lightly ramps up. TST and BK back off pretty good as you hit upper mid range, but the exciters stay a little more active. As you approach the first redline dot they all ramp up and get a little more gnarly feeling. As I pass the first red dot, they all die off. The feeling is kind of odd at first, but it is my shift indicator in feel. It actually reminds me of when you push a street car too far and everything goes light. Kind of hard to describe, but that's the feeling I get. If I don't shift, and keep running it stays completely off, until I hit the rev-limiter. Then, well, all heck breaks loose! All three hit, and hit hard. It feels like your about to destroy the engine! (and maybe ur tactile too lol)

I did jump over to the street stock, and run it. We're in Charlotte this week, so it's basically put a brick on the gas and steer. No benefits from the tune there - but it does, coincidentally, stay in a range where you get a comfortable and constant rumble. Luckily, it happens to feel pretty good so that's a win!

Having said all that - I think if I am going to be racing a specific car, I will tune the rpm's to that car like I did the MX-5. At least for road cars, probably not oval stuff. I really liked the fall as a shift indicator and the blam! in your face warning if you push it far. I will grab some shots of the current setup this evening and share them.

Speed wise - I was playing a bit with the LFE's on that the other day. I was getting some cool effects out of VERY low hertz. Like 1-9 or 1-6 something like that. It kind of gave you a wobble as you hit higher speeds. Definitely needed some work, but it too kind of gave you a similar feeling of pushing your car waaaay to fast lol. I didn't have it and the RPM's at the same time -- but the two together could really feel like you've went to the edge. it was a little "chunky" if that makes sense --- you could "feel" the hit's from the piston. I was thinking, afterwards, that stacking two effects as specific hertz say (2 and 3) or (4 and 6) may collide waves a bit and smooth things out. Haven't tested that yet, but was on my list of things to try.

I remember Mr Latte talking about a speed effect he really liked a while back -- he should be able to give some advice.

 

[gnoshme]

@bassun you're missing out on some idle level joy with those BKs. The nice thing is that when you are at idle there are no other effects competing for use of the shakers. Setting up a specific RPM effect at low hz (eg 20) and changing the curve so it zeros above 1500rpm is bliss. Disclaimer though, I am driving neither of those games. I'm on xbox, so I'm limited to Forza and I find myself more and more a "driving enthusiast" than a "racing enthusiast" so when I'm dialing stuff in it's in Horizon. I do a lot of grabbing a very simple car and driving it into the ground for a couple of hours. Beats reality right now.

 

[Brutal Deluxe]

I'm happy with my RPM settings for lower revs through my BK-LFE but am struggling to set my exciters to work at higher revs. Please can you guys post a screenshot of your exciter RPM settings.. or share the figures you're using?