Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[turekede]

The LUT for the drift setup seems quite alright. I haven't tested it for regular driving yet, and the biggest issue is that I don't have a real-life comparison to a car, so my opinion might not be entirely objective, but I think it's better. Below are my settings, and I'm driving a 240sx uras from Death wish garage (80% FFB car).
Alternatively, you can take a look and tell me what you would change here.

 

[RasmusP]

The LUT for the drift setup seems quite alright. I haven't tested it for regular driving yet, and the biggest issue is that I don't have a real-life comparison to a car, so my opinion might not be entirely objective, but I think it's better. Below are my settings, and I'm driving a 240sx uras from Death wish garage (80% FFB car).
Alternatively, you can take a look and tell me what you would change here.


View attachment 651489
View attachment 651488

Looks perfect for me!
Is the center passing transition when switching sides "smooth"?
That's basically all the LUT is doing right now. If you compare with/without the LUT, the center should be a bit tighter and smoother but the overall ffb basically indentical and no oscillating happening if you don't give it a wiggle to become unstable.

 

[Kuvon123]

Hi I reset eveything and tried again it seems to be working now. I appreciate the help here though!

 

[RasmusP]

@MackAfat9000
Hi,
so I'll need screenshots of your settings and also screenshots from what you mean by "AC launcher and CM are different".
Upload size for screenshots is 1.5mb. win+shift+s activates the snipping tool. If you save the snips as jpg, they should become small enough if you can't just copy them into the text field here

 

[MackAfat9000]

Hi @RasmusP

Thanks for coming back to me and I appreciate the help! Forgive me as I realised shortly after messaging you that the settings do indeed change in both Asseto Corsa and Content Manager when you make an adjustment. I made a few tweaks to the slip setting and kerb feeling initally just to see what the differences were. But other than that I think its similar to your recommended settings. I dragged and dropped the LUT / ini files into the config folder, which replaced the existing ones and made sure it was enabled before starting up Content Manager. I have also just gone through the settings in the Asseto_Corsa.ini to put the damper settings to 0.0 as you mentioned. I've probably missed something really basic, but otherwise it still felt like it made a big difference to the deadzone and general feel! Just not much feedback through the wheel when the car got loose.

Anyway thanks for taking the time and if you need any more screenshots let me know!

Thanks,
Mack

 

[RasmusP]

Hi, your settings look perfect!

I dragged and dropped the LUT / ini files into the config folder, which replaced the existing ones and made sure it was enabled before starting up Content Manager.

Yep, and it shows correctly in CM.
You also say that the deadzone is very different, so it applied correctly too.

I have also just gone through the settings in the Asseto_Corsa.ini to put the damper settings to 0.0 as you mentioned.

You can also enable the experimental settings in CM, like you did, and set the "Damper level" to 0%.
CM shows 100%, so the ini setting didn't apply or you took the CM screenshot before the change.

I've probably missed something really basic, but otherwise it still felt like it made a big difference to the deadzone and general feel! Just not much feedback through the wheel when the car got loose.

Nah, I think you just had way more gain before. Clipping only kills details, but doesn't kill the "left/right" input.
Other than a soundwave, which needs to go back and forth to vibrate and make clean sound, FFB only contains +100 to -100 as strength and you can feel a constant -100% very clearly.
A speaker stuck at -100% will not make any sound at all.

So "clipping" in FFB is not comparable with distorted clipping audio at all. Very misleading word...

When you lose grip on the rear, the ffb direction will change from positive to negative or the opposite. So if you set the gain to 20000%, you will have clipping all the time. But when the car starts to slide, the ffb will go from -20000% to +20000%.

So you will feel the loss of the rear extremely strong.

The issue however is, that you won't feel things like:
- the rear going lighter just before it starts to slide
- the ffb becoming stronger at higher speeds due to aero downforce
- little bumps that changethe ffb by 2-3% but keep the same direction

As a solution:
In theory you could just increase the gain. My LUT only boosts to 150%, so 50% * 150% = 75% overall output.

Stock ffb at 100% gain would be 100% overall output. But stock ffb at 100% gain is clipping quite a lot.
So my LUT boosts lower forces a bit more and then goes linearly to 100%. Or rather 75% with headroom compared to the default stock ffb.

The problem:
If you increase the gain to 67% (67*150% = 100%), your wheel will start to oscillate around the center, since the ffb becomes too strong.

Solution:
I'd need to adjust my LUT. But I spent quite a lot of time nailing the anti-deadzone part of the LUT and when I tried to make it go to 100% instead of just 75%, I couldn't nail it as perfectly

But I can try, I learnt a few things

I could upload that testing-LUT by Friday for you to test it.


In the meantime, if you're using CSP ? , you could also try these settings:
The new gyro feels great imo but won't change the ffb much. But it helps a little bit to feel the rear starting to slide!

And the Range Compression boosts the ffb a little bit WITHOUT clipping.
It works similar to a compressor for audio, making the ffb go from a quiet classical orchestra recording to a modern EDM dance song, without sounding bad.

But you might get crazy oscillations and need to lower the gain to 40% or so.

Just play around with it

You could also try 80% Range Compression and use 67% gain. This would boost higher forces, while lowering lower forces.

 

[MackAfat9000]

Hi, your settings look perfect!


Yep, and it shows correctly in CM.
You also say that the deadzone is very different, so it applied correctly too.

You can also enable the experimental settings in CM, like you did, and set the "Damper level" to 0%.
CM shows 100%, so the ini setting didn't apply or you took the CM screenshot before the change.

Nah, I think you just had way more gain before. Clipping only kills details, but doesn't kill the "left/right" input.
Other than a soundwave, which needs to go back and forth to vibrate and make clean sound, FFB only contains +100 to -100 as strength and you can feel a constant -100% very clearly.
A speaker stuck at -100% will not make any sound at all.

So "clipping" in FFB is not comparable with distorted clipping audio at all. Very misleading word...

When you lose grip on the rear, the ffb direction will change from positive to negative or the opposite. So if you set the gain to 20000%, you will have clipping all the time. But when the car starts to slide, the ffb will go from -20000% to +20000%.

So you will feel the loss of the rear extremely strong.

The issue however is, that you won't feel things like:
- the rear going lighter just before it starts to slide
- the ffb becoming stronger at higher speeds due to aero downforce
- little bumps that changethe ffb by 2-3% but keep the same direction

As a solution:
In theory you could just increase the gain. My LUT only boosts to 150%, so 50% * 150% = 75% overall output.

Stock ffb at 100% gain would be 100% overall output. But stock ffb at 100% gain is clipping quite a lot.
So my LUT boosts lower forces a bit more and then goes linearly to 100%. Or rather 75% with headroom compared to the default stock ffb.

The problem:
If you increase the gain to 67% (67*150% = 100%), your wheel will start to oscillate around the center, since the ffb becomes too strong.

Solution:
I'd need to adjust my LUT. But I spent quite a lot of time nailing the anti-deadzone part of the LUT and when I tried to make it go to 100% instead of just 75%, I couldn't nail it as perfectly

But I can try, I learnt a few things

I could upload that testing-LUT by Friday for you to test it.


In the meantime, if you're using CSP ? , you could also try these settings:
The new gyro feels great imo but won't change the ffb much. But it helps a little bit to feel the rear starting to slide!

And the Range Compression boosts the ffb a little bit WITHOUT clipping.
It works similar to a compressor for audio, making the ffb go from a quiet classical orchestra recording to a modern EDM dance song, without sounding bad.

But you might get crazy oscillations and need to lower the gain to 40% or so.

Just play around with it

You could also try 80% Range Compression and use 67% gain. This would boost higher forces, while lowering lower forces.
View attachment 660252

@RasmusP Thanks so much for your detailed reply and I appreciate you looking over my settings. I did take that screenshot just before the Damper change, but it is set to 0 now on both. I am running CSP so I will definitely have a play around with the Range Compression in the FFB Tweaks while adjusting the gain to see how that feels! Thanks again for taking the time to explain everything and it really has improved the whole experience while using a G29 wheel. Its awesome to see someone get the most out of these wheels and then share it with others so they can experience it. I've been considering a DD Wheel upgrade since buying a rig recently, but this has reignited my love for this wheel so I wont be upgrading for a while! I'll leave a little update once I've had a play with the settings, thanks again!

 

[Atrio_X]

I am just surfacing the simracing/wheel world. By yesterday I discovered people made 2 local Kart tracks in my city on AC. Then, I found out about how much the wheel can be improved with the Wheelcheck + Lut Generator combo.

Today I found this. It really feels like the next level, it's crazy to think this much could be extracted from an entry level wheel. Thank you and congrats!

I hope you don't mind a very ignorant question, but I feel intrigued to ask if there's anyway possible to translate such fine FFB calibrations to other games. I mostly play casual due to lack of time, but I still would love to get this same level of detail on games such as FM6, Dirt, or even Horizon 5.

I do understand this specific settings are supposed to only work with games with LUT support though, so while I'm expecting a big no, curiosity still intrigues me.

 

[RasmusP]

I am just surfacing the simracing/wheel world. By yesterday I discovered people made 2 local Kart tracks in my city on AC. Then, I found out about how much the wheel can be improved with the Wheelcheck + Lut Generator combo.

Today I found this. It really feels like the next level, it's crazy to think this much could be extracted from an entry level wheel. Thank you and congrats!

I hope you don't mind a very ignorant question, but I feel intrigued to ask if there's anyway possible to translate such fine FFB calibrations to other games. I mostly play casual due to lack of time, but I still would love to get this same level of detail on games such as FM6, Dirt, or even Horizon 5.

I do understand this specific settings are supposed to only work with games with LUT support though, so while I'm expecting a big no, curiosity still intrigues me.

Thanks for the kind words!

Sadly it is like you already think it is:
You can only do this if the game has LUT support
AC, ACC, iRacing.
Project Cars 1&2 have "dead zone removal" and "dead zone removal fall-off", which basically work like my LUT.
You raise the removal until you have a tight center with a slightly oscillating wheel and then you raise the fall-off until it becomes smooth and stops shaking.
It is what sparked the thought for my LUTs.

The minimum force setting in AMS & AMS2 are pretty good too, but you won't get rid of the little notch in the center.

For all other sims/games, you can't do much
You can only get rid of the deadzone by raising the ffb inside of the games, but you'll always get some notch/shaking in the center.

 

[Night237]

Hi in some serious need of help, i previously had a lut that worked but cant remember where i got it from. I went through all the steps to set up the recommended lut that requires %50 gain. Once in game it began working as normal and after a couple of minutes gradually began losing ffb and now currently i have no ffb at all on my g29 simply loose wheel that flies about, the car steers as well. i also went through the LGHUB reinstall process multiple times wiping all LGHUB related folders also used the other LGS software instead no luck. ffb clip dynamic off. If i take my Assetto Corsa folder under documents and rename it, the new created one does work but the goal is to use the Lut, i cant get any lut to work currently. please help going on a mini vacation hoping to have a solution by the time i come back to practice a litte more before work the next day please and thank you! configured all .ini files as per the guide and as well as youtube steps. i do not want to have to do a new assetto corsa documents folder as its a hassle and was already done once. thanks in advanced sorry for the long read

 

[RasmusP]

Hi in some serious need of help, i previously had a lut that worked but cant remember where i got it from. I went through all the steps to set up the recommended lut that requires %50 gain. Once in game it began working as normal and after a couple of minutes gradually began losing ffb and now currently i have no ffb at all on my g29 simply loose wheel that flies about, the car steers as well. i also went through the LGHUB reinstall process multiple times wiping all LGHUB related folders also used the other LGS software instead no luck. ffb clip dynamic off. If i take my Assetto Corsa folder under documents and rename it, the new created one does work but the goal is to use the Lut, i cant get any lut to work currently. please help going on a mini vacation hoping to have a solution by the time i come back to practice a litte more before work the next day please and thank you! configured all .ini files as per the guide and as well as youtube steps. i do not want to have to do a new assetto corsa documents folder as its a hassle and was already done once. thanks in advanced sorry for the long read

Hi,
first, don't worry. If it works fine with a fresh documents folder, it will work fine with the current/old documents folder too.

My first guess would be ffbclip. Even without the dynamic mode, I remember a bug that puts the "per-car-gain" to 0%, making you lose the ffb.

These "per-car-gains" are saved in the user_ff.ini:
C:\Users\YourUserName\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg

Looks like this:

As you can see, I had a different bug with ffbclip, setting some cars to 200%...

Simply delete that file.

Another file that might have wrong values:
Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\apps\python\FFBClip\Config
combos.ini
It stores the per-car-gain per track.
But it's at 1.0 for everything in my file.

If you are using Content Manager, you could disable ffbclip for a test after deleting the user_ff.ini:

CM -> Settings -> Assetto Corsa -> apps -> uncheck FFBClip:

 

[Night237]

Hi,
first, don't worry. If it works fine with a fresh documents folder, it will work fine with the current/old documents folder too.

My first guess would be ffbclip. Even without the dynamic mode, I remember a bug that puts the "per-car-gain" to 0%, making you lose the ffb.

These "per-car-gains" are saved in the user_ff.ini:
C:\Users\YourUserName\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg

Looks like this:
View attachment 660804

As you can see, I had a different bug with ffbclip, setting some cars to 200%...

Simply delete that file.

Another file that might have wrong values:
Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\apps\python\FFBClip\Config
combos.ini
It stores the per-car-gain per track.
But it's at 1.0 for everything in my file.

If you are using Content Manager, you could disable ffbclip for a test after deleting the user_ff.ini:

CM -> Settings -> Assetto Corsa -> apps -> uncheck FFBClip:
View attachment 660805

thanks so much! this is new info to me i appreciate that, i will try first thing when i get back with result

 

[RasmusP]

thanks so much! this is new info to me i appreciate that, i will try first thing when i get back with result

The important thing with this is that it works fine when renaming the existing documents folder.
Luckily all the controls related config files have nothing to do with the config files for everything else like visuals, the HUD, lap records etc etc.

You did the right thing by testing this. You could've done it before reinstalling the logitech software etc though

 

[Darragh ODonnell]

Will this work with the logitech g923

 

[RasmusP]

Will this work with the logitech g923

Yes and no. The thing is that I sadly don't know anyone with a G923 so I can't test it myself.
But working together with other users, I created some special LUTs for them.
Have a look at this post from 1 page before:
Post in thread 'RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT' https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/rasmusps-luts-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.139869/post-3652001

And when you scroll down a bit, there is another post with "soft" LUTs attached.

But maybe the standard recommended LUT will feel great for you too.

So yes, it works and yes, it makes things better.
But sadly I can't tell you which LUT you should test first, sorry.

 

[darrian]

Hi @RasmusP would you recommend I check Macpherson strut adjustment in FFB tweaks?

 

[RasmusP]

Hi @RasmusP would you recommend I check Macpherson strut adjustment in FFB tweaks?

Yes. But barely any cars actually use this. For these cars, things get a bit more "physically correct".
But honestly, I don't know any car using the Macpherson strut "work around" that would get better by that ffb tweaks fix.

 

[MilkoMods]

Hello, my g25 is shaking badly when stationary, its been like this for about 2 years now, if you could, please help.
Im using the recommended lut at the moment.

Ive set the first 2 digits of the lut to 0 to no avail..

 

[RasmusP]

Hello, my g25 is shaking badly when stationary, its been like this for about 2 years now, if you could, please help.
Im using the recommended lut at the moment.

View attachment 691982
Ive set the first 2 digits of the lut to 0 to no avail..

Hi,
that screenshot looks ok. Can you post screenshots of the "AXIS" tab in Content Manager and also of the Logitech control panel?

 

[RasmusP]

@Divax Here's the thread that I meant. Click on the link in the quote below. It contains pictures and an attached zip file with my 3 G923 LUTs

Yes and no. The thing is that I sadly don't know anyone with a G923 so I can't test it myself.
But working together with other users, I created some special LUTs for them.
Have a look at this post from 1 page before:
Post in thread 'RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT' https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/rasmusps-luts-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.139869/post-3652001

And when you scroll down a bit, there is another post with "soft" LUTs attached.

But maybe the standard recommended LUT will feel great for you too.

So yes, it works and yes, it makes things better.
But sadly I can't tell you which LUT you should test first, sorry.