Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[RasmusP]

Hi im using this lut file and i find the steering wheel to be lighter than before,is it normal?its not affecting my driving but i was just wondering.
my wheel is the dfgt

That depends on your settings before changing to my settings.
If you had 100% gain, 100% in the Logitech Profiler with 900°, then it should feel exactly identical apart from a smoother center position.

You can raise the game gain to beyond 100% and you can also raise the Logitech Profiler to more than 100%.
This will cause massive clipping, but make the average ffb stronger.

The ffb also becomes stronger, when lowering from 900° to something like 540°!

 

[sfyner]

ngl i used your setup and gain on 50 percent but its shaking like crazy, idk why i used a new lut but i used to use everything off and wheelcheck lut but now its so rattly and impossible to drift, ik its good but i need some advice i tried adjusting the minimum to 0| to 0.08 and the second one to 0.08| 0.1 but its still very rattly. it used to never rattle with wheelcheck setup although u said thats meant to make it unsmooth or somthing. i think this is meant to be good for only racing as you are mainly going fast but even then when ur in very slow turns and the wheel is 180* upside down it rattles abit, i feel like for racing tho these settings are nicer than default. please help me ive spent a lot of time trying to figure this stuff out


EDIT: I've used it in racing again and fbb is very nice but still rattles like the wheel is gonna break when starting to drive, going very slow or when I try drift with it, Ive decided I'll use this setup for racing and wheel check smooth one for drifting unless you can help me.
Also what is a deadzone and clipping?? Sorry for asking

 

[RasmusP]

ngl i used your setup and gain on 50 percent but its shaking like crazy, idk why i used a new lut but i used to use everything off and wheelcheck lut but now its so rattly and impossible to drift, ik its good but i need some advice

Ehhh...
the lut you're using is for the G25/7/9 wheels!
You need to use the dfgt lut in my download zip

Put the gain to 100% and use the dfgt lut. Should work a lot better!


About deadzone, clipping, gain and Nm:
Deadzone = the dead feeling in the center without a lut and without the minimum force setting.
My luts simply replace the minimum force with a smooth curve to make the center smoother.

But the dfgt has a Deadzone of around 4% ffb.
The G27 has a Deadzone of around 15%.
So you're currently compensating for 15%, which is 11% too much for your wheel, causing the shaking and rattling.


Clipping isn't that important.
The ffb output of the game is always limited to 100%.
So hitting a tree will spike to like 2000% and always get clipped off at 100%.
But also heavier corners like Eau Rouge at Spa will go to like 130% ffb with the gain at 100%.
So if you go over a kerb while the ffb is already at 130% mid-corner, you won't feel it, since the kerb will shake the wheel between 110-150%, which all is = 100%.

If you have a mega strong direct drive wheel like a simucube, you can put that to 25 Nm strength.
The dfgt has around 2.5 Nm of strength.
That's factor 10.

If you want the simucube to be as strong on average as the dfgt, you'd have to lower the ffb gain to 10%.

Now the 130% through Eau Rouge will only be 130*10%= 13% ffb.
The ffb will fluctuate between 11-15%.

The 15% * 25 Nm = 3,75 Nm.
Which is 1.25 Nm more than the dfgt can do.

The issue now is that hitting a tree will still be 2000% * 10% = 200%.
That still gets clipped off at 100%, which gives you 25 Nm of torque and probably brakes your hands, lol.


If you lower the gain with the dfgt, the average ffb level will become too low though.
If you want the 150% maximum of the kerb to NOT clip, you'd need to set the gain to (100/150 = 0,67) 67%.

But now your average ffb would be only 67% of what you normally have with 100% and you won't really feel what the car is doing anymore.



Yeah, quite complex with clipping and torque etc.
But I hope this explanation gave a few answers?

Basically:
the less strong the wheelbase is, the more clipping you need to accept to have a good average ffb strength.
The stronger your wheelbase, the lower you can set the ffb gain and get nothing clipped off while driving normally.
However you shouldn't go too crazy in my opinion to not brake your wrists/hands.
Which is why I'm using 60% gain with my fanatec csw 2.5 (8 Nm torque).
No clipping through Eau Rouge, but hitting a tree will only have 8Nm, not 25 Nm!

 

[sfyner]

Ehhh...
the lut you're using is for the G25/7/9 wheels!
You need to use the dfgt lut in my download zip

Put the gain to 100% and use the dfgt lut. Should work a lot better!


About deadzone, clipping, gain and Nm:
Deadzone = the dead feeling in the center without a lut and without the minimum force setting.
My luts simply replace the minimum force with a smooth curve to make the center smoother.

But the dfgt has a Deadzone of around 4% ffb.
The G27 has a Deadzone of around 15%.
So you're currently compensating for 15%, which is 11% too much for your wheel, causing the shaking and rattling.


Clipping isn't that important.
The ffb output of the game is always limited to 100%.
So hitting a tree will spike to like 2000% and always get clipped off at 100%.
But also heavier corners like Eau Rouge at Spa will go to like 130% ffb with the gain at 100%.
So if you go over a kerb while the ffb is already at 130% mid-corner, you won't feel it, since the kerb will shake the wheel between 110-150%, which all is = 100%.

If you have a mega strong direct drive wheel like a simucube, you can put that to 25 Nm strength.
The dfgt has around 2.5 Nm of strength.
That's factor 10.

If you want the simucube to be as strong on average as the dfgt, you'd have to lower the ffb gain to 10%.

Now the 130% through Eau Rouge will only be 130*10%= 13% ffb.
The ffb will fluctuate between 11-15%.

The 15% * 25 Nm = 3,75 Nm.
Which is 1.25 Nm more than the dfgt can do.

The issue now is that hitting a tree will still be 2000% * 10% = 200%.
That still gets clipped off at 100%, which gives you 25 Nm of torque and probably brakes your hands, lol.


If you lower the gain with the dfgt, the average ffb level will become too low though.
If you want the 150% maximum of the kerb to NOT clip, you'd need to set the gain to (100/150 = 0,67) 67%.

But now your average ffb would be only 67% of what you normally have with 100% and you won't really feel what the car is doing anymore.



Yeah, quite complex with clipping and torque etc.
But I hope this explanation gave a few answers?

Basically:
the less strong the wheelbase is, the more clipping you need to accept to have a good average ffb strength.
The stronger your wheelbase, the lower you can set the ffb gain and get nothing clipped off while driving normally.
However you shouldn't go too crazy in my opinion to not brake your wrists/hands.
Which is why I'm using 60% gain with my fanatec csw 2.5 (8 Nm torque).
No clipping through Eau Rouge, but hitting a tree will only have 8Nm, not 25 Nm!

im using a g29, not dfgt wheel so im sorry i didnt write about it beforehand what post proccessing settings should i use?

, ty for the definitions and putting up with me


one last thing my wheel moves hard once when i upshift and , but i dont have it when downshifting, its this normal? and any way to reduce the intense shaking i mentioned before, putting the number lower by abit in the lut file didnt really work or i did it wrong, its in the post i made above so tell if its wrong . Thank you again for helping me

 

[RasmusP]

Sorry! I had some stressful days but didn't want to let you wait and confused you with DrkSky1, who I quoted at the top of this page

Okay, so G29, recommended LUT, my settings, wanting to DRIFT.
I completely overread the drifting part.. sorry again!

now its so rattly and impossible to drift

That is the Slip Effect in the Effects sections of the FFB.
It's a generic vibration effect that happens when one of the tyres starts to slide.
When racing, it's important for:
- knowing when getting wheelspin
- knowing when locking up in cars without ABS
- starting to loose the rear and starting to slide

And drifting is sliding + wheelspin so yeah.. Put that to 0% when drifting!!

what post proccessing settings should i use?

This "Center boost gain" stuff is old crap that you can ignore. The "range" doesn't matter as long as the "gain" is at 0%. Just keep it like that, it's inactive/disabled this way.

one last thing my wheel moves hard once when i upshift and , but i dont have it when downshifting, its this normal?

That can be normal, depending on the car. When downshifting, you are normally braking or rolling and the gearbox changing down a gear only causes some additional rear-braking via the engine resistance.

However when upshifting, you're mostly fully on the throttle/gas, accelerating.
When shifting, the clutch interrupts the acceleration and then pretty quickly gets back to full acceleration.
This send a "punch" through the whole car, causing the bump in the steering wheel.

putting the number lower by abit in the lut file didnt really work

Yeah the issue is the "Slip Effects" as mentioned. Lowering the first values in the LUT file only gets rid of the slight vibration/rattle when standing still, not while driving/drifting!


Thanks for staying so nice!
My reply to you really made no sense at all, lol...

So use the "recommended" LUT with 50% gain, put SLIP EFFECT to 0%, everything else like in your Screenshot above and try again.

If it's still vibrating too much, put ROAD EFFECT to 0% too.

 

[Johnny Speed]

Question please? .. is this intended for vanilla AC or does it work with CSP and their added FFB affects/profile, whatever you want to call it. Will they work together?

 

[sfyner]

Sorry! I had some stressful days but didn't want to let you wait and confused you with DrkSky1, who I quoted at the top of this page

Okay, so G29, recommended LUT, my settings, wanting to DRIFT.
I completely overread the drifting part.. sorry again!


That is the Slip Effect in the Effects sections of the FFB.
It's a generic vibration effect that happens when one of the tyres starts to slide.
When racing, it's important for:
- knowing when getting wheelspin
- knowing when locking up in cars without ABS
- starting to loose the rear and starting to slide

And drifting is sliding + wheelspin so yeah.. Put that to 0% when drifting!!

This "Center boost gain" stuff is old crap that you can ignore. The "range" doesn't matter as long as the "gain" is at 0%. Just keep it like that, it's inactive/disabled this way.

That can be normal, depending on the car. When downshifting, you are normally braking or rolling and the gearbox changing down a gear only causes some additional rear-braking via the engine resistance.

However when upshifting, you're mostly fully on the throttle/gas, accelerating.
When shifting, the clutch interrupts the acceleration and then pretty quickly gets back to full acceleration.
This send a "punch" through the whole car, causing the bump in the steering wheel.

Yeah the issue is the "Slip Effects" as mentioned. Lowering the first values in the LUT file only gets rid of the slight vibration/rattle when standing still, not while driving/drifting!


Thanks for staying so nice!
My reply to you really made no sense at all, lol...

So use the "recommended" LUT with 50% gain, put SLIP EFFECT to 0%, everything else like in your Screenshot above and try again.

If it's still vibrating too much, put ROAD EFFECT to 0% too.

Sorry! I had some stressful days but didn't want to let you wait and confused you with DrkSky1, who I quoted at the top of this page

Okay, so G29, recommended LUT, my settings, wanting to DRIFT.
I completely overread the drifting part.. sorry again!


That is the Slip Effect in the Effects sections of the FFB.
It's a generic vibration effect that happens when one of the tyres starts to slide.
When racing, it's important for:
- knowing when getting wheelspin
- knowing when locking up in cars without ABS
- starting to loose the rear and starting to slide

And drifting is sliding + wheelspin so yeah.. Put that to 0% when drifting!!

This "Center boost gain" stuff is old crap that you can ignore. The "range" doesn't matter as long as the "gain" is at 0%. Just keep it like that, it's inactive/disabled this way.

That can be normal, depending on the car. When downshifting, you are normally braking or rolling and the gearbox changing down a gear only causes some additional rear-braking via the engine resistance.

However when upshifting, you're mostly fully on the throttle/gas, accelerating.
When shifting, the clutch interrupts the acceleration and then pretty quickly gets back to full acceleration.
This send a "punch" through the whole car, causing the bump in the steering wheel.

Yeah the issue is the "Slip Effects" as mentioned. Lowering the first values in the LUT file only gets rid of the slight vibration/rattle when standing still, not while driving/drifting!


Thanks for staying so nice!
My reply to you really made no sense at all, lol...

So use the "recommended" LUT with 50% gain, put SLIP EFFECT to 0%, everything else like in your Screenshot above and try again.

If it's still vibrating too much, put ROAD EFFECT to 0% too.

wow it completely fixed, tysm , and ive tried ur lut for like 1 or 2 hrs earlier in racing and its very nice
also when i let go of the wheel (mainly in the center) it rattles like 20 degrees but its ok because ik its to stop the deadzone thats why im using ur gamma lut because it has a less harsh center shake (while driving not when being still) or whatever u call it

 

[sfyner]

Question please? .. is this intended for vanilla AC or does it work with CSP and their added FFB affects/profile, whatever you want to call it. Will they work together?

im not the owner but i think it works with both and i think cm doesnt really enable anything thats not in the vanilla game by default, im pretty sure it was made for vanilla because this was made in 2017 and the screenshots show ingame settings, but still works with cm

 

[RasmusP]

Question please? .. is this intended for vanilla AC or does it work with CSP and their added FFB affects/profile, whatever you want to call it. Will they work together?

In the CSP FFB Tweaks, these would be my settings.
In theory I could create a LUT file that works together with 200% Range Compression but I don't have my G27 anymore so I can't do it
It would boost low ffb levels to make the Logitech wheels feel more alive.
I'm using 150% Range Compression with my Fanatec CSW 2.5 and it's quite nice!

But sadly your wheel would probably shake a lot when using it with my LUTs.
But you could try it! The "Real forces" stuff is only for special wheelbases and pedals. Not for Logitech!
The new gyro is nice and the MacPherson struct too (although only used by very very few cars!). Both work perfectly fine with my LUTs!

My LUTs are really only a replacement for the minimum force slider. The Min force slider simply works like this:
10% Min force -> 0% ffb = 0% output ; 1% ffb = 10%, 2% = 11% output and then a straight line to 100/100.
The issue is that when you get rid of the deadzone, you will feel the edge of the line in the center with some "clank, clank" through chicanes.
If you lower the min force until that goes away, you will still have some deadzone left.

My LUTs are smoothed curves and work more like this:
0% -> 0.5% (random rattle that fills the last bit of deadzone)
1% -> 6%
2% -> 8%
3% -> 9.5%

Which gets rid of the deadzone without the clank in the center. At least as best as possible.

wow it completely fixed, tysm , and ive tried ur lut for like 1 or 2 hrs earlier in racing and its very nice

Awesome!

 

[KanseiDorift95]

First off, a huge thank you for this. I've been using your LUT for a while and it's unquestionably the best. Hopefully this isn't a stupid question - but is there a difference between how GHub and LGS..."react"(?) - for lack of a better term - to the LUT?

Basically, I previously did my initial setup with GHub. I didn't think too much of it since I was still able to set the centering spring to exactly as the guide says. A couple days ago, GHub began acting up and I was so frustrated I went back to LGS. Ever since, the wheel isn't right with the same settings as recommended. I haven't changed anything in the ini files since my initial setup according to the guide, and LGS is setup in the same way, with 50% sensitivity, no centering spring. But now, I'm getting massive deadzone in the center and completely numb, both in AC and ACC (setup the same way as DagZede's guide to use your LUT in ACC). The best way I can describe it is that it almost seems reversed, at least when drifting. It feels normal at very low speeds, with increasing numbness at speed, and countersteering is next to impossible.

I also tried uninstalling LGS and re-installing GHub - weirdly seems to fix the issues, but now I'm back dealing with GHub, and I'm not sure which one's worse. I'm at the point where I'm willing to keep LGS installed, completely reinstall both AC/ACC and re-modify the ini files from scratch afterwards if that would fix it.

 

[RasmusP]

First off, a huge thank you for this. I've been using your LUT for a while and it's unquestionably the best. Hopefully this isn't a stupid question - but is there a difference between how GHub and LGS..."react"(?) - for lack of a better term - to the LUT?

Basically, I previously did my initial setup with GHub. I didn't think too much of it since I was still able to set the centering spring to exactly as the guide says. A couple days ago, GHub began acting up and I was so frustrated I went back to LGS. Ever since, the wheel isn't right with the same settings as recommended. I haven't changed anything in the ini files since my initial setup according to the guide, and LGS is setup in the same way, with 50% sensitivity, no centering spring. But now, I'm getting massive deadzone in the center and completely numb, both in AC and ACC (setup the same way as DagZede's guide to use your LUT in ACC). The best way I can describe it is that it almost seems reversed, at least when drifting. It feels normal at very low speeds, with increasing numbness at speed, and countersteering is next to impossible.

I also tried uninstalling LGS and re-installing GHub - weirdly seems to fix the issues, but now I'm back dealing with GHub, and I'm not sure which one's worse. I'm at the point where I'm willing to keep LGS installed, completely reinstall both AC/ACC and re-modify the ini files from scratch afterwards if that would fix it.

Hi!
My LUT doesn't change anything at all regarding how AC works with any wheel. It just changes the ffb output a little bit but it's still within AC.
You can do mistakes while setting it up but it won't "change how AC works with the wheel" or something like that.
It's like putting a glass of water on a table.
You can knock it over, making everything wet, but it's like the floor is the wheel, the table is AC and the Glass of water is the LUT.
Putting a glass of water on the table won't change anything regarding the floor apart from when you knock over the glass.

Is your ffb normal if you take out the LUT files in ACC?
And when you disable ffb post processing in AC?

I've read about LGS and GHub both being buggy but that has nothing to do with my LUTs.
However if your ffb is fine without my LUTs, it's not the LUT. It's some error somewhere in the config.

No reason to re-install AC/ACC though. Making a backup of your AC/ACC folders in your documents and then deleting it would be enough to get clean config files re-created!

Can you take screenshots of your settings?

 

[KanseiDorift95]

Hi!
My LUT doesn't change anything at all regarding how AC works with any wheel. It just changes the ffb output a little bit but it's still within AC.
You can do mistakes while setting it up but it won't "change how AC works with the wheel" or something like that.
It's like putting a glass of water on a table.
You can knock it over, making everything wet, but it's like the floor is the wheel, the table is AC and the Glass of water is the LUT.
Putting a glass of water on the table won't change anything regarding the floor apart from when you knock over the glass.

Is your ffb normal if you take out the LUT files in ACC?
And when you disable ffb post processing in AC?

I've read about LGS and GHub both being buggy but that has nothing to do with my LUTs.
However if your ffb is fine without my LUTs, it's not the LUT. It's some error somewhere in the config.

No reason to re-install AC/ACC though. Making a backup of your AC/ACC folders in your documents and then deleting it would be enough to get clean config files re-created!

Can you take screenshots of your settings?

Thank you for this explanation! I'm still a complete noob when it comes to understanding how to tweak it correctly, so greatly appreciate the explain-like-I'm-five breakdown. I haven't had the time to try the FFB without the LUT in either, though next time I take out my setup, that's also good advice. It's been so long since I've used the base FFB that I hope I can still remember what it felt like before implementing your LUTs. I'm not seeing anything that I missed in the configs, so may use your idea to just backup, delete, and recreate the clean config files.

These are my current settings.

AC:

ACC:

 

[RasmusP]

Thank you for this explanation! I'm still a complete noob when it comes to understanding how to tweak it correctly, so greatly appreciate the explain-like-I'm-five breakdown. I haven't had the time to try the FFB without the LUT in either, though next time I take out my setup, that's also good advice. It's been so long since I've used the base FFB that I hope I can still remember what it felt like before implementing your LUTs. I'm not seeing anything that I missed in the configs, so may use your idea to just backup, delete, and recreate the clean config files.

These are my current settings.

AC:
View attachment 637812
View attachment 637813
View attachment 637814

ACC:
View attachment 637816
View attachment 637815

That looks all good!
I'd recommend to only use 30% dynamic damping in ACC, but this shouldn't really change the ffb.
Everything else looks correct!



Are you having the ffb tweaks extension in CSP active for AC?

You say your sensitivity in LGS/GHUB is set to 50% and Rotation set to 900°?
And the center spring is set to 0% and "off"?

 

[KanseiDorift95]

That looks all good!
I'd recommend to only use 30% dynamic damping in ACC, but this shouldn't really change the ffb.
Everything else looks correct!



Are you having the ffb tweaks extension in CSP active for AC?

You say your sensitivity in LGS/GHUB is set to 50% and Rotation set to 900°?
And the center spring is set to 0% and "off"?

Yup to all! Now this is really a head scratcher if you're not seeing anything else messed up in my configs...

I guess I'll go with the route of recreating clean config files and re-editing the settings. Maybe this will fix whatever else might have broke when I switched over to LGS from GHub. But thank you for the help!!

 

[RasmusP]

Yup to all! Now this is really a head scratcher if you're not seeing anything else messed up in my configs...

I guess I'll go with the route of recreating clean config files and re-editing the settings. Maybe this will fix whatever else might have broke when I switched over to LGS from GHub. But thank you for the help!!

Sorry I can't help much

One last idea would be that LGS or GHub are loading a game specific profile?

Do you have any other sim that you could try? rF2, Automobilista, Raceroom would be free with basic content if you don't own it. Wreckfest, anything?
I don't really believe that you screwed up the configs for both AC and ACC!

 

[KanseiDorift95]

Sorry I can't help much

One last idea would be that LGS or GHub are loading a game specific profile?

Do you have any other sim that you could try? rF2, Automobilista, Raceroom would be free with basic content if you don't own it. Wreckfest, anything?
I don't really believe that you screwed up the configs for both AC and ACC!

No problem! You've helped my AC experience more than you'd ever know already

I recently bought AMS2, which could be a good experiment. The last I checked, LGS was loading in the default profile. But it's good knowing my config files are right - at least it helps weed out one issue for sure.

 

[sfyner]

Sorry for another question but should i use the fbbclip app? i feel like it changes the gain so the fbb feels different but as before u said clipping is when there is no fbb because there is already fbb happening or something of that sort. so should i still use it?

 

[RasmusP]

Sorry for another question but should i use the fbbclip app? i feel like it changes the gain so the fbb feels different but as before u said clipping is when there is no fbb because there is already fbb happening or something of that sort. so should i still use it?

I would NOT use it.
It's a well programmed app that can be handy to see how much clipping you're getting but I don't like having all cars being at the same strength.

With a powerful enough wheel like a simucube, you'd simply set the gain to 50% (without using my lut ) so you'd have no clipping with any car.
Then leave all "per-car-gains" at 100% and they would all feel differently according to their physics.


However with logitech wheels, you get some clipping anyway since you'd otherwise have too low average ffb.
So you don't really need to care about clipping and instead you can focus on smoothing the center.

So with my G27, I simply played around with the ffb while driving until the steering felt the smoothest.

Too low gain and you'll feel a "hole" in the center (deadzone). Too high gain and you'll feel some clunky notching.
All cars worked well between 85-115%.
With the menu gain at 50% and the "recommended" LUT.

 

[turekede]

Hi guys, can someone tell me how it works on g923? I heard that g920.lut should work best with g923. Can someone agree it?

 

[turekede]

Ok, so yes I tried installing the LUT for the g923, everything works nice except that the moment I let go of the steering wheel it starts vibrating heavily and living its life. I tried manually changing the first value in the .LUT, but it didn't help.
Could you take a look at my settings in the game? Maybe I have something wrong set there