The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

MeNoMoney said:
Well, I didn't think fitting the inserts would be so bloody hard. Fitted 2 so far in last hour. Yes, I am useless. In the video I watched the guy fits them by hand in a mimute and very easy.
Mine were hard as hell to get all the way in. Getting them to go in straight was impossible, well for me anyway but as I said I'm useless. Might try doing another 2 tomorrow. Think I might endup having to sub contract out my diy build, before I screw anything else up.

Yeah, mine were hard as hell too. I could start them with a drill but only for a couple of threads. The rest had to be wound in by hand.
A powerful impact drill/driver is the tool to use, apparently. And oil the helicoils first.
It's actually impossible to fit them wonky as they'll straighten up the deeper they go, but you'll definitely make screwing them in harder if they start wonky as the first 10mm of wonky thread will make the inserts bind all the way in. So start them as straight as possible and you'll make life easier.

Dennis Karlsson · Mar 1, 2019

Buy a DeWalt 18V screw driver or something similar. I did all 32 inserts under two hours.

MeNoMoney said:
Well, I didn't think fitting the inserts would be so bloody hard. Fitted 2 so far in last hour. Yes, I am useless. In the video I watched the guy fits them by hand in a mimute and very easy.
Mine were hard as hell to get all the way in. Getting them to go in straight was impossible, well for me anyway but as I said I'm useless. Might try doing another 2 tomorrow. Think I might endup having to sub contract out my diy build, before I screw anything else up.

ScottSonder · Mar 1, 2019

Echoing sentiments that this German supplier Kinetik is improving. It did take a while to get the order correct, but once I sent the payment, I received tracking 2 days later. Looks like the servos are the bottle neck in minimum amount of time to build assuming you have the ability to get the 3D printed parts.

I bought a QIDI X-one 2. Will be ensuring the slider dimensions are correct before I print anything else, but the test run was an easy success.

Dennis Karlsson · Mar 1, 2019

Should I file the motor and actuator axels before mounting the shaft couplings?
Or is it enough to just clean them?

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

Dennis, I would get a file and score them, this is not an even filing but trying to put a number of marks/lines/gouges on them.

You dont have to go too overboard with it.

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

OK, I just connected everything up for the first time and did the extension/retraction start/stop test in simfeedback as per these instructions:

https://opensfx.com/build-process-testing-all-electronics/

The pistons extended and retracted as expected, but retracted to slightly different lengths (like +/- 3mm). Is this normal? Will it level out when fitted on the rig and under load?

My 'motor' light in simfeedback has NEVER turned green, by the way. It remained red throughout this testing phase.

I then fired up AC on my laptop and ran an AI driver but the actuators haven't moved. The 'motor' light remains red.

Help!

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

The motor light will not be green until you hit start.

In that screenshot SFX is not trying to control the actuators, if it was the start button would read 'stop' instead. If that is not working maybe for some reason it has chnaged the COM port in the settings?

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
The motor light will not be green until you hit start.

In that screenshot SFX is not trying to control the actuators, if it was the start button would read 'stop' instead. If that is not working maybe for some reason it has chnaged the COM port in the settings?

Not sure I understand. Pressing start/stop DOES move the actuators, and I've just noticed that the light DOES go green when they are moving.
This contradicts the 'official' guide though which confusingly says:

7. Turn your AC servo drives on; so they’re all powered up
8. Make sure you have a green light in Simfeedback for motors, and a red light for telemetry
9. Press the Start button

...which suggests the light should be green BEFORE pressing start. That confused the hell out of me.

If I can start/stop the actuators in simfeedback then surely the COM port is correct? It's getting telemetry from Asseto Corsa that seems to be the problem.

Also, there's a horrible high-pitched whistle when the actuators fire up.

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

OK, so if they move up in to position then thats good. Yes, the guide looks like it has the line around the wrong way. It doesnt go green until you hit start.

It does seem that telemetry is not working, do you get a green light when in a car on track in AC? I cannot remember in AC if you need to set something up. Edit, looks like nothing to configure..

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
OK, so if they move up in to position then thats good. Yes, the guide looks like it has the line around the wrong way. It doesnt go green until you hit start.

It does seem that telemetry is not working, do you get a green light when in a car on track in AC? I cannot remember in AC if you need to set something up. Edit, looks like nothing to configure..

No green motor light when AC is running.
When I hit ctrl-C to make the AI drive he drives around in reverse. Not sure if that's related. I'd expect telemetry in the pits before the race starts though?

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

OK, that is odd. So after you hit start and they move, and the green light is on for that to happen, at what point does the green light go off before you get AC started?

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

The light goes red as the pistons are retracting.

Had this pop up a couple of times:

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

I get the popup sometimes as well.

OK, so you press start and they extend but without you pressing stop they retract and the light goes off?

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
I get the popup sometimes as well.

OK, so you press start and they extend but without you pressing stop they retract and the light goes off?

No, they stay extended until I hit stop, then they start retracting and the light turns red before they've finished retracting.

One thing just occurred to me, I'm testing this on my laptop without a FFB wheel attached before installing everything upstairs on the sim rig. That wouldn't affect AC outputting telemetry, would it?

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

OK, so the process would be that you hit start, load AC, run it and the SFX should work with the motor light green the entire time.

You should only press stop when you are finished or are going to change a profile. If I am right, AC is not working because you have already pressed stop which is stopping any SFX movement.

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
OK, so the process would be that you hit start, load AC, run it and the SFX should work with the motor light green the entire time.

You should only press stop when you are finished or are going to change a profile. If I am right, AC is not working because you have already pressed stop which is stopping any SFX movement.

Aw, for fu...
That was it.
THANK YOU.
From the instructions I thought the 'start' 'stop' was just the test mode to extend/retract the pistons. I was hitting 'stop' before launching the game.
Pistons are now pumping!
Thanks mate, I owe you a cold one.

I need to find the source of this high-pitched whistle now. I think it's electronic rather than mechanical.

Steve D · Mar 1, 2019

Steve.

Are you hitting STOP before running AC? (via CM I take it)

If so, that's your issue bud!

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

Steve D said:
Steve.

Are you hitting STOP before running AC? (via CM I take it)

If so, that's your issue bud!

Stop taking the piss you bastard! It's been a long week!

I feel a bit daft right now...

Steve D · Mar 1, 2019

Also look at the lights on your Arduino. Should be as follows:

PC on, = solid Green
SFB launched & START pressed - solid Green / blinking Orange
AC launched (telemetry being received) - solid green / solid Orange

Agggghhhh just seen you're up and running.

Excellent news!!

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

Also, since I'm in the mood for admitting how stupid I am, a little protip for fellow newbies out there:
When you've connected everything up, and checked your wiring, and checked your connections, and checked everything again just to be sure, and you fire everything up for the first time only to be met with tumbleweeds...
Don't pace around the room swearing under your breath, then swearing loudly, then think about ditching motion altogether... just pop a little jumper lead across the emergency stop terminals on the wago because like a bell-end you forgot to connect up the e-stop prior to testing.
Then go grab a beer from the fridge.