The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

dedraro · Feb 28, 2019

Since some guys have had slip problems with their couplers, this is what I did today in about 30/40 minutes:

I know it's not perfect but I used a totally wrong file, one of those flat/round (the only one that have at home XD)

https://emedia.rmit.edu.au/dlsweb/T...hop/05hand_tools/images/half_round_file_2.jpg

But he does his job perfectly, get in very tight, needs a couple of knock with hand to enter, no play at all.

For the next 3 I buy one of these file, which is certainly more suitable

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Vz5rbXacL._SL1500_.jpg

I advise you to do the same, I do not have a good file or a vice, so I took so much time, but with a bit of equipment in an hour I'm sure you can do all 4 couplers.

RowanH · Feb 28, 2019

I would suggest maybe only do it if you have slipping problems and you *can't* get your couplers to work otherwise - that should only be a last ditch attempt modifying the coupler. So long as tolerances are all okay, and surfaces are clean/free of grease and oil you should just be able to rely on the coupler being tightened up with suitable torque - ie using it as designed. If you're needing to rely on the keyway and cutting things down like this, it could loosen off and start wearing on the inside and start introducing issues over time, not something you'd want to preemptively start doing.

I found this just in a hunt to see if I could find a specific torque setting for you guys (I use the "tight AF" method that I've learned from getting a race car built)

There is a recommended position of the where the servo key way should be relative to the clamp/slit position on the coupler :

https://www.nbk1560.com/en/products/coupling/couplicon/service/maintenance/

A *lot* of people - from what I can judge on the owners forum have built without slip issues...... with a small handful that have...

dedraro · Feb 28, 2019

RowanH said:
I would suggest maybe only do it if you have slipping problems and you *can't* get your couplers to work otherwise - that should only be a last ditch attempt modifying the coupler. So long as tolerances are all okay, and surfaces are clean/free of grease and oil you should just be able to rely on the coupler being tightened up with suitable torque - ie using it as designed. If you're needing to rely on the keyway and cutting things down like this, if the could loosen off and start wearing on the inside and start introducing issues over time, not something you'd want to premptively start doing. It's pretty quick to get motors on and off...

I found this just in a hunt to see if I could find a specific torque setting for you guys (I use the "tight AF" method that I've learned from getting a race car built)

There is a recommended position of the where the servo key way should be relative to the clamp/slit position on the coupler :

https://www.nbk1560.com/en/products/coupling/couplicon/service/maintenance/

A *lot* of people - from what I can judge on the owners forum have built without slip issues...... with a small handful that have...

I did it because I'm still waiting for the o-rings and not having much to do, I did not want to say that everyone has to do it absolutely, the original project is certainly valid as it is, I did not know there was a recommended area for the key, now since I have 7 of these couplers, do you advise me to redo the recommended area or can I use this already done?

ScottSonder · Feb 28, 2019

RowanH said:
I would suggest maybe only do it if you have slipping problems and you *can't* get your couplers to work otherwise - that should only be a last ditch attempt modifying the coupler. So long as tolerances are all okay, and surfaces are clean/free of grease and oil you should just be able to rely on the coupler being tightened up with suitable torque - ie using it as designed. If you're needing to rely on the keyway and cutting things down like this, if the could loosen off and start wearing on the inside and start introducing issues over time, not something you'd want to premptively start doing. It's pretty quick to get motors on and off...

I found this just in a hunt to see if I could find a specific torque setting for you guys (I use the "tight AF" method that I've learned from getting a race car built)

There is a recommended position of the where the servo key way should be relative to the clamp/slit position on the coupler :

https://www.nbk1560.com/en/products/coupling/couplicon/service/maintenance/

A *lot* of people - from what I can judge on the owners forum have built without slip issues...... with a small handful that have...

This is amazing info for the wiki that could be under a section called "Filing" or something. As someone with zero mechanical knowledge walking in here, I never knew what people were talking about.

acekrusty23 · Feb 28, 2019

cprelot said:
hey Guy's I'm stock and confused on connection to the DB25 board
Mine DB25 (top Picture) are not the same layout of the Reference german build (Bottom picture)
as you see mine label are DB25-M instead DB25-M2 I didn't noticed until now
it look like my board connection are fliped to left also the GRD
I dont know if I need follow the connection layout like on the reference (Botom picture) even if the number port dont match mine
or I need to connect connection port 3,4 5 ,6 ,9,10 doesn't mater where is it on the board
please advise
thanks
View attachment 284007

Hey mate, did u sort this out? Any pics of your wiring.
I’ve bought the same as u.
Thanks.

cprelot · Mar 1, 2019

acekrusty23 said:
Hey mate, did u sort this out? Any pics of your wiring.
I’ve bought the same as u.
Thanks.

Yeah I figured this out you need to match exactly the number pin on the board with the wiki .doesn’t matter the layout since this board are flipped but the db25 plug are the same

acekrusty23 · Mar 1, 2019

cprelot said:
Yeah I figured this out you need to match exactly the number pin on the board with the wiki .doesn’t matter the layout since this board are flipped but the db25 plug are the same

Ok thanks

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

RowanH said:
I would suggest maybe only do it if you have slipping problems and you *can't* get your couplers to work otherwise - that should only be a last ditch attempt modifying the coupler. So long as tolerances are all okay, and surfaces are clean/free of grease and oil you should just be able to rely on the coupler being tightened up with suitable torque - ie using it as designed. If you're needing to rely on the keyway and cutting things down like this, it could loosen off and start wearing on the inside and start introducing issues over time, not something you'd want to preemptively start doing.

I found this just in a hunt to see if I could find a specific torque setting for you guys (I use the "tight AF" method that I've learned from getting a race car built)

There is a recommended position of the where the servo key way should be relative to the clamp/slit position on the coupler :

https://www.nbk1560.com/en/products/coupling/couplicon/service/maintenance/

A *lot* of people - from what I can judge on the owners forum have built without slip issues...... with a small handful that have...

Coupler slippage between the two round shafts is what's keeping me awake at night because of the ball-ache involved in removing the actuator and stripping it down, then trying to remedy the problem AND stop it happening again. I wonder if there's some industrial-grade tacky 'gunk' that can be painted on the contact surfaces to increase the friction? A little bit of friction goes a long way. I was going to put some Loctite on the contact patches but decided against it in the end in case it actually contributed to the (potential) problem. It might work with threads but maybe not with larger surface areas.

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

If people do get slippage, it will come from the side of the coupler that mates with the screw, there is 60% less contact between the coupler and the screw compared to the shaft of the motor.

I am not sure you have to be too worried unless you know you are having a problem.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 1, 2019

Has anybody had issues installing the software, Simfeedback?

Ive extracted the zip
Ive run the remove_blocking.bat as admin
Run Simfeedbackstart.exe as admin

The simfeedback logo flashes up for a second, then nothing...?

Edit: I can it running in Task manager.

EDIT 2: Do I need the Arduino plug in for the software to run?

C64 · Mar 1, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
Has anybody had issues installing the software, Simfeedback?

Ive extracted the zip

Ive run the remove_blocking.bat as admin

Run Simfeedbackstart.exe as admin

The simfeedback logo flashes up for a second, then nothing...?

Edit: I can it running in Task manager.

EDIT 2: Do I need the Arduino plug in for the software to run?

Sounds odd - you definitely don't need the Arduino plugged in. Turn your PC off/on then try extracting it to a folder in your "Documents" folder, do the remove _blocking.bat and try again, you should not need to run as administrator. Disable any anti-virus stuff that may be trying to "defend" your pc from attack.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 1, 2019

Thanks - Tried all that to be honest.

Im actually trying to run it on a PC that wont actually be used for sim racing... (im just being nosey while my stuff arrives) I'll try my gaming PC later to see if that works any differently.

Thx

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 1, 2019

OK - Ive managed to get it running.

It appears if you have Excel running the software will not load. (for me anyway)

Make sure Excel is NOT running before launching Simfeedback and it works

Elaphe · Mar 1, 2019

Hi. I'm new to designing and building a cockpit with aluminium profile. I have used Maycad to design it and I've got a budget with Motedis. My idea is to make something similar to the Simlabs P1 rig, so I have used 40x160 profiles for the base and 120x40 for the columns. The bucket seat will be on rails and with Sparco side mounts. As regard the pedals, I still have to plan how to make a platform with manual distance adjustments (I don't want them too high). The steering wheel will be a OSW. I will screw the frame to a base made of laminated wood, so it will be easy to slide.

I have doubts about the kind of brackets to use and if they alone will be enough to provide rigitity to the whole structure. Is this the model commonly used?

https://www.motedis.es/shop/Accesor...a-8/Escuadra-40-tipo-I-ranura-8::9999998.html

This is my budget so far:

And this is my design:

Am I forgetting anything? Any big mistakes? Any advice? Thank you.

C64 · Mar 1, 2019

You don't need 160x40 for side rails, 120x40 is enough. Try to get your seat rails a bit lower - gives a better feel of sitting in the car. Move the front 120x40 crossmember to be in the area where the front actuators attach - it will be a stiffer frame. attach 120x40 crossmembers to 120x40 siderails with 4 angle brackets at each corner, ( top and bottom - front and back ) - 16 angle brackets in total for the frame. Pedal mounting frame only needs to be 40x40 attached to the 120x40 siderails - will be more than strong/stiff enough. Wheel stand looks good.

Edit - I used motedis for my rig that I built last october, they were good value, delivered quickly and everything I ordered arrived. The brackets you have specified are the same as I used - they are all you need. Get lots of endcaps for blanking off the aluminium ends - they are sharp !

Dennis Karlsson · Mar 1, 2019

You might need some space behind the seat for the SFX100s? They might fit beside the seat?

Elaphe said:
Am I forgetting anything? Any big mistakes? Any advice? Thank you.

Jens Roos · Mar 1, 2019

There is lots of ways to solve the 8020 rig, I preferred using the 80x40 or 80x80 brackets when possible, I also had the pedals fixed and have seat on sliders (also available at motedis, but I modified them a bit).

Depending on pedals and your foot size, you might want the heel rest a bit higher.

The above is from my 3D model, but it's not up to date with final design and all details, but it's more GT driving position than formula but I would not like the pedals higher. I posted some picture somewhere here (can't find them right now, but I have since then rebuild the rig with separate monitor stand instead of integrated in the rig.

And must say I tempted to jump on this motion rig build as well, but have not taking the jump yet

wajdi · Mar 1, 2019

C64 said:
You don't need 160x40 for side rails, 120x40 is enough. Try to get your seat rails a bit lower - gives a better feel of sitting in the car. Move the front 120x40 crossmember to be in the area where the front actuators attach - it will be a stiffer frame. attach 120x40 crossmembers to 120x40 siderails with 4 angle brackets at each corner, ( top and bottom - front and back ) - 16 angle brackets in total for the frame. Pedal mounting frame only needs to be 40x40 attached to the 120x40 siderails - will be more than strong/stiff enough. Wheel stand looks good.

Edit - I used motedis for my rig that I built last october, they were good value, delivered quickly and everything I ordered arrived. The brackets you have specified are the same as I used - they are all you need. Get lots of endcaps for blanking off the aluminium ends - they are sharp !

Even 40/80 profiles is enough. I have my friend working in Aluminium profiles for years and he says that 40/80 is a very strong to support hundreds of kilos of load and torque.

Elaphe · Mar 1, 2019

Yep, but I see advantages in using bigger profiles for the lower frame. For instance, the columns are much more strongly fitted because there is more surface in contact and you can use screws higher, so there's not much leverage effect. I don't know if you understand what I mean.

MeNoMoney · Mar 1, 2019

Well, I didn't think fitting the inserts would be so bloody hard. Fitted 2 so far in last hour. Yes, I am useless. In the video I watched the guy fits them by hand in a mimute and very easy.
Mine were hard as hell to get all the way in. Getting them to go in straight was impossible, well for me anyway but as I said I'm useless. Might try doing another 2 tomorrow. Think I might endup having to sub contract out my diy build, before I screw anything else up.