The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

Mascot said:
Also, since I'm in the mood for admitting how stupid I am, a little protip for fellow newbies out there:
When you've connected everything up, and checked your wiring, and checked your connections, and checked everything again just to be sure, and you fire everything up for the first time only to be met with tumbleweeds...
Don't pace around the room swearing under your breath, then swearing loudly, then think about ditching motion altogether... just pop a little jumper lead across the emergency stop terminals on the wago because like a bell-end you forgot to connect up the e-stop prior to testing.
Then go grab a beer from the fridge.

Yeah, I assumed you were not as daft as you now appear to be.. Had I not assumed I would have just said you are not doing the obvious and we would have sorted it ten posts earlier

but on a serious note, isnt it great to see that you turn it all on for the first time and it all works.. All the worries of what could go wrong melt away!

Steve D · Mar 1, 2019

Re. the high pitched whine, that's an odd one and there's a recent thread on the Discord Channel, 'ac-driver-noise' about that or something similar. I've not experienced it or I'm 'deaf as a post.' Does it only happen when the actuators are running? If so might be worth double checking the servo controller settings unless you've already done so. From the Github page:

AC Servo Settings
Get familiar with the control schema (Arrows, MOD, SET).
Push MOD until you see Pn000. This is the parameter mode.
Change and check these settings on all motors:

P8 = 300

P9 = -300

P51 = 1200 (3000) - Max RPM, start slow!

// Step Input Multiplier

P98 = 20 - Puls Multiplikator

P109 = 1 - smoothing, 1=fixed smoothing, 2=s-Shaped smoothing

P110 = 30 - Smoothing Filter Time

P113 = 20 - Feedforward %

P114 = 10 - Feedforward Filter Time (ms)

P115 = 100 - Gain %

MeNoMoney · Mar 1, 2019

Mascot said:
It's actually impossible to fit them wonky

Ya wanna bet. lol. I'm the king of wonky mate.

Thanks mate, been using 3in1 oil on the inserts.
Well, another 4 more fitted now,so 6 in total. Guess I'll be finished fitting the other 26 inserts in about 3 more days.
Doesn't help when you see this video of the guy fitting them easy as and at 1 per minute and with just an Allen key. lol

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

Elaphe said:
Hi. I'm new to designing and building a cockpit with aluminium profile. I have used Maycad to design it and I've got a budget with Motedis. My idea is to make something similar to the Simlabs P1 rig, so I have used 40x160 profiles for the base and 120x40 for the columns. The bucket seat will be on rails and with Sparco side mounts. As regard the pedals, I still have to plan how to make a platform with manual distance adjustments (I don't want them too high). The steering wheel will be a OSW. I will screw the frame to a base made of laminated wood, so it will be easy to slide.

I have doubts about the kind of brackets to use and if they alone will be enough to provide rigitity to the whole structure. Is this the model commonly used?

Am I forgetting anything? Any big mistakes? Any advice? Thank you.

Those brackets are what we are all using, they are the ones that come with the P1. I would suggest getting a number more than you first think, they come in handy. With your seat, I assume that you are going to mount it with brackets on top of the seat mount, like the P1. It does make for quite a tall setup. Most people have found that the lower the COG the better the feel. I went low right away so I cannot compare but it makes a lot of sense being closer to the axis of movements than farther out.

Here are some ideas how I mounted my sparco, just using the 8020 and a couple brackets from the hardware store. It is very low, the bottom of the seat rests on the 40x40 that is at the bottom and it also bolted on with a bracket from the hardware store. The front bolts just go on to a 90 deg bracket so very easy really. I made up a spacer on the lathe to fill the gap but stacked washers would do the same thing.

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

Steve D said:
Re. the high pitched whine, that's an odd one and there's a recent thread on the Discord Channel, 'ac-driver-noise' about that or something similar. I've not experienced it or I'm 'deaf as a post.' Does it only happen when the actuators are running? If so might be worth double checking the servo controller settings unless you've already done so. From the Github page:

AC Servo Settings
Get familiar with the control schema (Arrows, MOD, SET).
Push MOD until you see Pn000. This is the parameter mode.
Change and check these settings on all motors:

P8 = 300

P9 = -300

P51 = 1200 (3000) - Max RPM, start slow!

// Step Input Multiplier

P98 = 20 - Puls Multiplikator

P109 = 1 - smoothing, 1=fixed smoothing, 2=s-Shaped smoothing

P110 = 30 - Smoothing Filter Time

P113 = 20 - Feedforward %

P114 = 10 - Feedforward Filter Time (ms)

P115 = 100 - Gain %

I checked the official instructions for this:

Is this a test or something? These instructions make no sense whatsoever to me. Following them doesn't work. Am I supposed to be HOLDING a button down at some stage?
This is driving me round the bend at the moment...

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

Do you have discord? I have about 10 mins before I have to go out and can quikly walk you through it

jimbraj · Mar 1, 2019

MeNoMoney said:
Well, I didn't think fitting the inserts would be so bloody hard. Fitted 2 so far in last hour. Yes, I am useless. In the video I watched the guy fits them by hand in a mimute and very easy.
Mine were hard as hell to get all the way in. Getting them to go in straight was impossible, well for me anyway but as I said I'm useless. Might try doing another 2 tomorrow. Think I might endup having to sub contract out my diy build, before I screw anything else up.

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
Do you have discord? I have about 10 mins before I have to go out and can quikly walk you through it

Thanks man, but I'd better knock it on the head for the evening. Been up for 18 hours. Maybe it'll all make sense in the morning, lol.
The instructions seem a little light on detail though.

metalnwood · Mar 1, 2019

OK, no problem. you will need to get those settings sorted before you use them in anger.

sjb266 · Mar 1, 2019

I have the high pitch noise too. I assume it’s normal.

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
OK, no problem. you will need to get those settings sorted before you use them in anger.

I've worked it out through trial and error. You have to press and HOLD the 'SET' button for a second or so otherwise it just moves the cursor left. Why the instructions don't mention this I'll never know. They just say to press the SET button, like they say to press UP and DOWN. Totally different type of pressing is required though, otherwise the instructions just disintegrate and make you think that you're losing your mind.
Hope this helps someone to have a better evening than I'm having, lol.

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

sjb266 said:
I have the high pitch noise too. I assume it’s normal.

Seems like it's hit and miss.

ScottSonder · Mar 1, 2019

Mascot said:
Thanks man, but I'd better knock it on the head for the evening. Been up for 18 hours. Maybe it'll all make sense in the morning, lol.
The instructions seem a little light on detail though.

If there are indeed missing knowledge for the noobs, can we make it a point to update the wiki? I'm filing all of this stuff in my brain, but maybe other fresh noobs will be able to use the wiki for their ultimate source.

ScottSonder · Mar 1, 2019

metalnwood said:
Dennis, I would get a file and score them, this is not an even filing but trying to put a number of marks/lines/gouges on them.

You dont have to go too overboard with it.

This thread picked up the pace very quickly. Didn't Rowan just suggest filing is a last option, and the couplings should be secured as designed? No mechanical knowledge here, I'm just following the thread and the builds.

Mascot · Mar 1, 2019

ScottSonder said:
If there are indeed missing knowledge for the noobs, can we make it a point to update the wiki? I'm filing all of this stuff in my brain, but maybe other fresh noobs will be able to use the wiki for their ultimate source.

Having just gone through this I'd suggest the following changes to the AC Servo Settings instructions to make them clearer to first-timers:

AC Servo Settings
Get familiar with the control scheme (Arrows, MOD, SET).
Change and check the following settings on all four servo controllers using this method:

Tap MOD until you see Pn000. This is the parameter mode that we will use.
With Pn000 on the display, tap up/down to find the number you need to change from the list below (eg Pn008).
Press and briefly hold SET. The display will now change to a numerical value.
Then tap up/down to set the correct corresponding numerical value from the list.
Then press and briefly hold SET, it will flash to indicate it’s programmed (note: mine did not flash?)
Then tap SET to go back up to the original program setting [note this won’t be necessary if you haven’t changed its value].
Select the next number as per step 2, rinse and repeat steps 2-5 until all parameters in the list below have been entered on all four servo controllers.

Pn008 = 300

Pn009 = -300 (note: this is a NEGATIVE number)

Pn051 = 1200 (or 3000 for maximum speed) - RPM, start slow!

// Step Input Multiplier (<<<<<I'd delete this text completely, it's unnecessary and just confusing in the middle of a list of parameters to change)

Pn098 = 20 - Pulse Multiplier

Pn109 = 1 - smoothing, 1=fixed smoothing, 2=s-Shaped smoothing

Pn110 = 30 - Smoothing Filter Time

Pn113 = 20 - Feedforward %

Pn114 = 10 - Feedforward Filter Time (ms)

Pn115 = 100 - Gain %

ScottSonder · Mar 2, 2019

Thank you, @Mascot !!

RowanH · Mar 2, 2019

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback.. will update the docs.

Please be aware it is a volunteer effort on the docs, so maybe go easy on the expectation levels

By all means constructive feedback is welcomed and will be incorporated. However it won't be at ikea levels of hand-holding due to the nature of things like the high voltage wiring, and servo power.

Justin Koch · Mar 2, 2019

I have seen D-box actuator/servos for sale.... could we use those?
Or a Kollmorgen AKM21C-BNM2C-00 PM Servo Motor 320VDC 8000RPM w/ Encoder, 24VDC Brake
Perhaps it is easier to get everything all together like the original "Shopping list"?
Just thinking...

metalnwood · Mar 2, 2019

ScottSonder said:
This thread picked up the pace very quickly. Didn't Rowan just suggest filing is a last option, and the couplings should be secured as designed? No mechanical knowledge here, I'm just following the thread and the builds.

Hi Scott, what Rowan said was that creating the keyway in the coupling for the motor shaft was not required which is a different thing. I think I added to that saying that putting a keyway on the motor side wont make too much difference because if they are going to slip it will most likely be at the screw side of the coupler.

anton_Chez · Mar 2, 2019

They key (I think) to the threaded inserts is a) a powerful enough cordless drill to drive them (doesn't need super power, any 18V DIY drill should do the job), b) slight lubrication to allow them to cut easily (a drop of machine oil or PTFE bike chain lube or similar should be fine. Drop a little in the profile) and c) a long hex shank to push INTO the channel while drilling, keeping the inserts straight and allowing you to drill firmly with confidence of not slipping off or going crooked. See that video above, it's a perfect way of doing it.

I did 32 threads in around 10 minutes once I worked out how to get the first one in smoothly.

@Mascot Did you read anything I posted....

I did all of the things you've done. I'd hoped that my stupidity could have at least saved others some frustration and a little embarrassment..... Oh well, welcome to the other side, thanks for joining us (me).

The servo controls are indeed a little weird. It's strange though as once you work it out you sort of forget about how annoying it was trying to get it to respond.

At least your bearings aren't on upside down, are they...?

.................................

Go check, quick. I won't tell anyone....