The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[BluePotato00]

I'm not considering it, just curious: does anyone here use a Gametrix Jetseat or Realteus Forcefeel with their SFX100?

I use Realteus Forcefeel with my SFX-100 setup. I only turn on the engine rumble and the deceleration effects (it vibrates the front of the seat on braking - don't know why I like that effect!).

 

[Wmacky]

I have a Jet seat. I do want to add a full tactile setup to my SFX, so I'm not sure if the Jetseat would be usable as a enhancement or not. I have have to much going on with all 3?

 

[Ahikam Naor]

One week + 1-day after payment to Kinetek I got a mail with tracking number from DHL Germany.

 

[Mascot]

I've calculated that if I attach my actuators 'one channel up' on the P1 side rails (for the lowest seating/CoG position) then the bottom of the P1 chassis will be 100mm off the floor with the actuator pistons retracted. What I'm having trouble working out is whether this will be sufficient to stop the nose of the chassis hitting the floor with maximum actuator extension at the rear and maximum compression at the front, bearing in mind that the front actuators sit immediately behind the pedal deck. Has anyone physically tried this with their P1 or do I need to do a CAD sketch to prove the theory?

 

[metalnwood]

It sounds unlikely that you will bottom out assuming that the rear one is mounted at the back of the P1 and the front one is not mounted closer than 700mm

 

[Vantskruv]

Anyone installed a protection circuit breaker?
If so, which amperage protection do you use, 30mA or 10mA?
I want to go as low as possible, but I am not sure if a 10mA protection circuit breaker will be falsely triggered.

 

[Vantskruv]

Another question, which trip-type of the automatic fuse do you use? B, C or D? I read that C or D are recommended for motors, but C and D do trip slower than B. Would a B type with 13A limit work well?
I guess these motors, four of them, has quite a big flow of current at start up. I am not sure which automatic fuse type to use, and which amperage limit. Maybe I should increase the amperage limit, from 13A to 16A, when using a faster type B-fuse?

 

[metalnwood]

Don't know, just using a powerpoint that has all four sfx servos, the osw and my transducers plugged in to it. It will be rated for 10a 230v and most likely wont have a slow fuse. I use slow fuses only in a couple of area of my house where there are bigger motors ~ 7.5Kw

 

[Vantskruv]

Okay, I think I will order a B-type fuse of 16A and 10mA amperage protection surge (noticed that I cannot find lower amperages i.e. 10A or 13A with 10mA protection).

Edit: Think I may connect my OSW to the circuit aswell. Do not want to be electrified in my simrig if something goes wrong.

Edit2: Oh, found one with 10A also! I wait a while for more advice if I am going wrong...

 

[dedraro]

Guys recently I posted a render of my future setup:

https://i.postimg.cc/v8cjp6tL/Immagine2-Copia.png

But I was pointed out that over the vibrations I have to take into account the real hammering that the sfx will give the platform where I will install Pc and components (osw case, amp etc ..), so not wanting to hurt me I tried a little bit for me to do, to dampen the bumps as much as possible, and I found these spring mount vibration isolator

https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...8.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.94.6.63752013fRLUEP

Quite cheap, and that allow a linear movement only, i will go to compose a sandwich of materials made up as follows from top to bottom:

Foot SFX-100
Floor protector rubber feet (from Shopping List)
Rubber / Cork Vibration isolation pads
6mm anti-vibration carpet (for washing machines)
Platform in 18mm plywood (that you can see in the render)
Spring mount vibration isolator bks-05 (30/50kg each)
Aluminum (structure for the components)
20x20 Silent block (who will sit on the floor)

(the dimensions of the damper are more or less in scale)

What do you think? Can they be suitable or is it better to go on classics silent block? thanks as always

 

[Mascot]

Guys recently I posted a render of my future setup:

https://i.postimg.cc/v8cjp6tL/Immagine2-Copia.png

But I was pointed out that over the vibrations I have to take into account the real hammering that the sfx will give the platform where I will install Pc and components (osw case, amp etc ..), so not wanting to hurt me I tried a little bit for me to do, to dampen the bumps as much as possible, and I found these spring mount vibration isolator

https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...8.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.94.6.63752013fRLUEP

Quite cheap, and that allow a linear movement only, i will go to compose a sandwich of materials made up as follows from top to bottom:

Foot SFX-100
Floor protector rubber feet (from Shopping List)
Rubber / Cork Vibration isolation pads
6mm anti-vibration carpet (for washing machines)
Platform in 18mm plywood (that you can see in the render)
Spring mount vibration isolator bks-05 (30/50kg each)
Aluminum (structure for the components)
20x20 Silent block (who will sit on the floor)

(the dimensions of the damper are more or less in scale)

What do you think? Can they be suitable or is it better to go on classics silent block? thanks as always

Looks a little over-elaborate to me. Any concerns about pogoing from those undamped springs?

 

[C64]

I've calculated that if I attach my actuators 'one channel up' on the P1 side rails (for the lowest seating/CoG position) then the bottom of the P1 chassis will be 100mm off the floor with the actuator pistons retracted. What I'm having trouble working out is whether this will be sufficient to stop the nose of the chassis hitting the floor with maximum actuator extension at the rear and maximum compression at the front, bearing in mind that the front actuators sit immediately behind the pedal deck. Has anyone physically tried this with their P1 or do I need to do a CAD sketch to prove the theory?

So... assume lowest position of front actuators gives 100mm off the floor... put packers under the rear actuators equivalent to the full travel of actuators and see if anything grounds at the front. If it does then you can still put some blocks/spacers under the feet of the actuators to give yourself the clearance you need but still keep your seating position relative to the actuators the same.

 

[Mascot]

So... assume lowest position of front actuators gives 100mm off the floor... put packers under the rear actuators equivalent to the full travel of actuators and see if anything grounds at the front. If it does then you can still put some blocks/spacers under the feet of the actuators to give yourself the clearance you need but still keep your seating position relative to the actuators the same.

Thanks, I was thinking along those lines too. It's eminently tweakable. If I add a passive harness fixed to a 1/2" plywood board clamped to the floor by the rear actuators then that'll add height too. I've got a bunch of suitable plywood packers already so it's a suck-it-and-see process really.
Is the difference between full compression and extension exactly 100mm? And can this be dialled down in the simfeedback software?
(still building my setup, not actually active yet)

 

[dedraro]

Looks a little over-elaborate to me. Any concerns about pogoing from those undamped springs?

I thought about it and I could not find videos to understand the real movement of these damper springs and it would be terrible if the rig would moves like jack in the box XD

What do you think, better put simple silent blocks under the plywood, maybe bigger ones like 60x40mm?

 

[C64]

Guys recently I posted a render of my future setup:

https://i.postimg.cc/v8cjp6tL/Immagine2-Copia.png

But I was pointed out that over the vibrations I have to take into account the real hammering that the sfx will give the platform where I will install Pc and components (osw case, amp etc ..), so not wanting to hurt me I tried a little bit for me to do, to dampen the bumps as much as possible, and I found these spring mount vibration isolator

https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...8.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.94.6.63752013fRLUEP

Quite cheap, and that allow a linear movement only, i will go to compose a sandwich of materials made up as follows from top to bottom:

Foot SFX-100
Floor protector rubber feet (from Shopping List)
Rubber / Cork Vibration isolation pads
6mm anti-vibration carpet (for washing machines)
Platform in 18mm plywood (that you can see in the render)
Spring mount vibration isolator bks-05 (30/50kg each)
Aluminum (structure for the components)
20x20 Silent block (who will sit on the floor)

(the dimensions of the damper are more or less in scale)

What do you think? Can they be suitable or is it better to go on classics silent block? thanks as always

The actuators are designed to supply motion to the rig including small motions for RPM, Rumble etc. If we then absorb a lot of this detail by adding lots of damping under the actuator feet then we may reduce the effects we are trying to achieve. For me, I want the actuators to have as firm a surface as possible to react against so as much of the motion detail as possible gets transmitted to the rig. I know that noise issues are a big factor for some people so it makes good sense to remove the harshness with dampers.

 

[dedraro]

The actuators are designed to supply motion to the rig including small motions for RPM, Rumble etc. If we then absorb a lot of this detail by adding lots of damping under the actuator feet then we may reduce the effects we are trying to achieve. For me, I want the actuators to have as firm a surface as possible to react against so as much of the motion detail as possible gets transmitted to the rig. I know that noise issues are a big factor for some people so it makes good sense to remove the harshness with dampers.

You are right! I had not actually thought about this, if the damper would work 100% efficiently, it would be a plywood movement under the actuators and I would stay in position XD
So I'd better try the materials I already have and see how it goes. thanks

 

[anton_Chez]

My main rails sit 80mm off the floor in the retracted state. I've also moved my front actuators back so they are now roughly in line with the spacing of other users, maybe 92, 93cm apart.

I've tested FULL pitch forward with one of the testing profiles Henk and Jochen put together. Not only does it not bottom out, but there's room to spare.

I wouldn't worry if your rails sit 100mm from the floor if your actuators are not super close together.

 

[MeNoMoney]

Don't expect any response whatsoever and you won't be disappointed. The stuff will just arrive one day as if by magic.

( Order Date: 24.02.2019 22:38:00 )
Just to let you and others know.
That My order from them has just turned up 10minutes ago, out of the blue. Luckily being a fully fledged hermit has finally paid off, otherwise I would of missed it. Never got any shipping or tracking email from them, but happy it's turned up so soon. Now to check it's all there, speaking from the mind of a devout pessimistic sob that I also am.

 

[Mascot]

( Order Date: 24.02.2019 22:38:00 )
Just to let you and others know.
That My order from them has just turned op 10minutes ago, out of the blue. Luckily being a fully fledged hermit has finally paid off, otherwise I would of missed it. Never got any shipping or tracking email from them, but happy it's turned up so soon. Now to check it's all there, speaking from the mind of a devout pessimistic sob that I also am.

That's quick! Protip: lift the sections up on end in the box and give them a shake if you don't want aluminium swarf all over your house. Do it outside for even better results. Blast with an airline if you have one.

 

[MeNoMoney]

Oh,
Bit of info for those waiting on Servo kits.
My servo kit order from HK-DE-UK has only taken 2 days to arrive.

Oh,
If you put your email into DHL website on the tracking page after checking your tracking, they will then email you a constant shipping update for every stage during shipping. I've had 5 so far.