Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

Hey all, I have some Reckhorn 200i shakers coming to replace my Dayton BST-1s and would like to make the mounting solution under the pedal deck a bit easier for future swapping in and out. So far I have had 3 of the Dayton's fail and they are a PITA to swap out. I either have to pull my whole pedal deck off or try and undo nuts underneath where the bolts can turn when trying to tighten or untighten then.

I currently have them mounted to pine boards, one for each shaker to mimick one on each corner.

What is the best wood to mount them to, is it pine, MDF or something else?

Secondly what would be the best way to mount them to the wood? The reckhorns come with some mounting screws but I am a bit worried that with being mounted upside down the screws over time will pullout from the wood due to the vibrations and gravity working together.

I have the simlab P1X pedal deck and mount the wooden boards to the underside of that and then mount the shakers to the board.

Also to best mimick and feel each corner is it better to have a board under each shaker separately or is one longer board with both shakers on it going to work just as well?

Cheers
 
I play iRacing, DR 2.0, and RBR mostly.

I promise you that I will give the D-Box haptics a going through. I'm hoping that I can use some of those effects and that some of them offer an improvement over tactile.

However, based on the feedback I've gotten from other D-Box users who added Race Bass tactile systems after the fact, the D-Box haptic engine effect doesn't compare well. I haven't gotten a blow by blow on all the other effects.

So I'm not expecting that I'll be able to keep the haptic engine effect now that I've been spoiled by what that can be. If you read the other motion thread. One D-Box user was complaining of the lack of control over the D-Box Haptic gear shift effect. I can tell you that I currently have 5 different gear shift effects to pick from and like a real car the upshift and downshift feel different and are optimized and spread out over multiple transducers. To be fair this particular complaint sounds like a bug that D-Box may fix in a future release.

As far as being able to feel multiple effects in tactile that depends on having a wide range of frequencies and multiple transducers to spread the effects over.

I currently get a very strong sensation of speed, RPM, rumble strips, gear shifts road texture etc.

I'll evaluate each effect individually between the systems and happily point out where each shines. I'm sure the D-Box system has some effects that work well. My intent is not to trash their efforts at haptics. I will leverage anything they can give me that works well or is better than what I have.

I also don't consider either tactile or what D-Box comes up with to be in final form. I'm sure that D-Box will improve things over time and I'm sure tactile effects will get better. This is all good!
Hope your install is going well. Looking forward to your thoughts, perhaps in a dedicated thread
 
So far I have had 3 of the Dayton's fail
They presumably fail from being overdriven,
which suggests that they are connected to too much mass.

I either have to pull my whole pedal deck off or try and undo nuts underneath where the bolts can turn when trying to tighten or untighten then.
Double nut: one set to hold bolts tight to the deck
and a second set to hold shakers to those bolts.

I currently have them mounted to pine boards, one for each shaker to mimick one on each corner.

What is the best wood to mount them to, is it pine, MDF or something else?
More mass makes things worse.;
much energy will be wasted shaking boards.
 
Hope your install is going well. Looking forward to your thoughts, perhaps in a dedicated thread
In my build thread where it belongs.
I'm almost finished. Just a little bit more cable management and I'll be ready to fire it up.
leftSide_8423.jpg
 
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SimRacingGarage and Boosted Media posted dbox G5 reviews. In the BM video, there is a great detailed discussion on motion-based haptics in the driving discussion. His camera positioning gives the best perspective I have seen in a video. @RCHeliguy - would be good to get your perspective and comparison. Happy Driving.
 
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They presumably fail from being overdriven,
which suggests that they are connected to too much mass.


Double nut: one set to hold bolts tight to the deck
and a second set to hold shakers to those bolts.


More mass makes things worse.;
much energy will be wasted shaking boards.
Not overdriven, I have some DSP amps that limit to 50rms which is the recommendation for the Dayton's. I just think that it is a design issue as I pulled one apart and the top and bottom of the magnet is connected to this plastic thingo that is actually quite narrow at one end and they seem to fail and this narrow point where the plastic breaks.

I also had a Dayton arrive that was broken at one of these points prior to installation. I did read a post somewhere that a guy said his were broken just from sitting in his garage from the extreme heat and cold, it snapped these plastic mounting parts.

How do you mean too much mass? The boards are bolted solid to the underside of the pedal tray, they are like at extension of the pedal tray the boards themselves do not move around.

I do use double nut but the issue I have here is the bolts spinning when I try to tighten them as they poke through from in to out so I have no access or way of gripping the bolt head unless I pull the whole thing apart.
 
SimRacingGarage and Boosted Media posted dbox G5 reviews. In the BM video, there is a great detailed discussion on motion-based haptics in the driving discussion. His camera positioning gives the best perspective I have seen in a video. @RCHeliguy - would be good to get your perspective and comparison. Happy Driving.
It is interesting that he said he had a couple buttkickers and took them off because he felt they were not required but one thing he didnt say which I might have expected him to is that it was a lot better than the tactile.

I do find that the motion does give off great idle engine effects nand some rev when standing there but the effect can't be maintained as effectively as a lot of tactile doing it.

On my seat i have the 4 mini lfe's and they are pretty much dedicated to the engine effects providing really nice all around your body as you are getting to the limiter.

I too am interested in whatg Mark has to say because I dont have dbox so I am not familiar with its effects and every piece of software is different in what it does and how much it lets you tinker with effects.
 
SimRacingGarage and Boosted Media posted dbox G5 reviews. In the BM video, there is a great detailed discussion on motion-based haptics in the driving discussion. His camera positioning gives the best perspective I have seen in a video. @RCHeliguy - would be good to get your perspective and comparison. Happy Driving.

Kind of interesting that Barry had default settings at 30 for a number of sliders in iRacing. I need to open the game and check, as I don’t recall my default being that low. Including 90% overall gain from in the global tab instead of 100? That doesn’t seem right.

I wonder if he made adjustments with his Gen3 d-box in the profile years ago(probably during that review!), and now it just picking up where it left off, and he assumed it’s default? Pushing ‘reload’ as he did won’t reset to default as he thinks, but rather it just returns to last “saved” state I believe. So in his case it could be his personal tuning from way back.

Not a big deal but wild he felt to turn everything down even more! (I tend to turn everything up! But that is all preference of course).
 
It is interesting that he said he had a couple buttkickers and took them off because he felt they were not required but one thing he didnt say which I might have expected him to is that it was a lot better than the tactile.

I do find that the motion does give off great idle engine effects nand some rev when standing there but the effect can't be maintained as effectively as a lot of tactile doing it.

On my seat i have the 4 mini lfe's and they are pretty much dedicated to the engine effects providing really nice all around your body as you are getting to the limiter.

I too am interested in whatg Mark has to say because I dont have dbox so I am not familiar with its effects and every piece of software is different in what it does and how much it lets you tinker with effects.
may I ask what amp you use to feed the mini LFEs?
I am about to buy two units but always used cheap amps and want to assign a budget for amp
 
I find that mounting where the G5 really shines is how you can mount them inside the frame easier like my setup attached. Given that I can make the actuators spacing tighter (more of a square) with greater pivot from being closer together, compare to my previous setup with greater travel, I don't feel like 1.5 is a limiting factor here, plus with the way how this is setup, I do like the cable management aspect more as well.

20220806_181524_HDR.jpg
 
may I ask what amp you use to feed the mini LFEs?
I am about to buy two units but always used cheap amps and want to assign a budget for amp
Hello, my amp has always been a bone of contention with me! When I first bought them in the beginning of simvibe they were popular and the amp people were buying was the behringer epq304.

People started to find out that it would shut off at times and required a power cycle to come back to life. I found that this amp will power two of them in bridged mode so I do that and power the other two with a good quality rotel amplifier that I also already owned.
 
Kind of interesting that Barry had default settings at 30 for a number of sliders in iRacing. I need to open the game and check, as I don’t recall my default being that low. Including 90% overall gain from in the global tab instead of 100? That doesn’t seem right.

I wonder if he made adjustments with his Gen3 d-box in the profile years ago(probably during that review!), and now it just picking up where it left off, and he assumed it’s default? Pushing ‘reload’ as he did won’t reset to default as he thinks, but rather it just returns to last “saved” state I believe. So in his case it could be his personal tuning from way back.

Not a big deal but wild he felt to turn everything down even more! (I tend to turn everything up! But that is all preference of course).
Yeah. It was a bit strange, but then again my daughter who is in not heavy turns down the motion compared to me, I recall Barry mentioning he was on the smaller side.

The bummer is that he only used iracing to test, and it would be good for him to incorporate other titles that put motion and haptics to the test (ACC and dr2).

I would have preferred he spend as much time talking about haptics as Boosted Media did. That said, Barry, like me, seems to prioritize road texture haptics over the engine vibration haptics (because there are limits to how many high frequency vibrations you can feel at the same time).
 
Whew, started on page 150 and made it this far.

I've got a BK-CT and 2x NX1000D amps since I found them on sale for $250 each and just didn't want to pass those up since I usually see them for $330 each. May sell one to get a 3000D. Next order is a TST329.

I'm starting with seat bottom first, then seat back with exciters and 304 amp, then I'll look into the pedals.

Anyway - my question is what die spring specifications do I want for the RaceBass isolators for the seat (mcmaster link)?

I am assuming these are the rubber feet that go with them? They have a 28.5mm ID.

Looking to fire this thing up once I get the isolators in.

Edit - actually those can't be the rubber feet since everything in the diagram is 30mm that goes in the cup. Hmm, anyone have a link to the right rubber parts? I can't seem to find them.
 
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They presumably fail from being overdriven,
which suggests that they are connected to too much mass.


Double nut: one set to hold bolts tight to the deck
and a second set to hold shakers to those bolts.


More mass makes things worse.;
much energy will be wasted shaking boards.
This is how it's mounted, the mounting points on the shakers don't line up exactly with the slots on the aluminium extrusion hence the wood.
20220819_185312.jpg
 
hence the wood
hence wasted tactile energy
Rotate shakers 45 degrees,
anchor pairs of diagonal corners in extrusions.
Two corners into extrusions > 4 corners in wood.

If those extrusions are not isolated from the chassis,
energy is wasted trying to excite the whole chassis.
 
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  • Deleted member 1066209

anchor pairs of diagonal corners in extrusions.
Two corners into extrusions > 4 corners in wood.
I'm having a difficult time trying to imagine that. Are you telling him to bolt the transducer directly to the extrusion, using only 2 of the diagonal corners?
 
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