Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

View attachment 571663You need a channel from the sound card per buttkicker, there's normally 2 channels per 3.5mm jack output so you need 4 channels for 2 amps with 4 buttkickers
So then you are saying that if I just add another of these cables? Should they be connected via a "Y" splitter into my sound card on the Bass/Center channel of my 7.1 system? Hey, thanks for you help on this, I really do appreciate the community coming to my aid.
 

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So then you are saying that if I just add another of these cables? Should they be connected via a "Y" splitter into my sound card on the Bass/Center channel of my 7.1 system? Hey, thanks for you help on this, I really do appreciate the community coming to my aid.
Absolutely yes, I actually even own that exact cable and it works fine, you should be able to select which outputs you are using from the 7.1 and assign them to what/where you like
 

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I have a very similar setup - diy, would you mind sharing the sim hub settings for the two motors? I like the ABS effect but I cannot get useful feedback on the accelerator with Rpm. Thanks!
Ended up dropping rpm afterall on my pedal, planning on switching it to a shaker instead. In the middle of reworking all my shakers.

But I think I had my motor at ~40% rpm effect with 100% Simhub volume. Mess with the curve too as I think too much slope caused the motor to whine before it hit a proper vibration speed.

Currently I am playing with other effects, not sure if I just stick to slip/lock but I started to use accel/brake gforce on each and it’s kind of nice to have that little rumble under foot as I brake or accel hard.
 
Should they be connected via a "Y" splitter into my sound card on the Bass/Center channel of my 7.1 system?
I'd recommend that you connect the two 3.5mm jacks into separate ports\channels on your soundcard rather than a Y splitter, as shown in the Reprobate's picture. That way you'll have control over all four channels
 
Ended up dropping rpm afterall on my pedal, planning on switching it to a shaker instead. In the middle of reworking all my shakers.

But I think I had my motor at ~40% rpm effect with 100% Simhub volume. Mess with the curve too as I think too much slope caused the motor to whine before it hit a proper vibration speed.

Currently I am playing with other effects, not sure if I just stick to slip/lock but I started to use accel/brake gforce on each and it’s kind of nice to have that little rumble under foot as I brake or accel hard.
Thank you!
 
@joemendel From what you're suggesting, it sounds like you want to use channels that are not used for actual sound output from the game/Windows. You may already know this but you need a second sound card to run tactile units from, separate from game audio and Windows audio output.

So on your second sound output device, you would buy 2 of those cables you showed previously, plug one of them into front L/R out and the other into rear L/R out. That will give you 4 channels of tactile, one for each BK unit. Be sure to select 5.1 or 7.1 output in Windows sound settings also.
 
@joemendel From what you're suggesting, it sounds like you want to use channels that are not used for actual sound output from the game/Windows. You may already know this but you need a second sound card to run tactile units from, separate from game audio and Windows audio output.

So on your second sound output device, you would buy 2 of those cables you showed previously, plug one of them into front L/R out and the other into rear L/R out. That will give you 4 channels of tactile, one for each BK unit. Be sure to select 5.1 or 7.1 output in Windows sound settings also.
Thanks for your response to my issue, I appreciate your time. I am using the motherboard 7.1 for my speaker system, and I bought this unit for the tactile purpose. I figured it cost on $30 and who really cares about the fidelity with the Buttkickers. However, I seem to be only able to get a signal for the BKs via the "Front" connection. I will follow your suggestion, as another cable arrives tomorrow. Is your suggestion that I use the "Front" and "Rear" connections, or is that irrelevant? Thanks again for your time.
 

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Thanks for your response to my issue, I appreciate your time. I am using the motherboard 7.1 for my speaker system, and I bought this unit for the tactile purpose. I figured it cost on $30 and who really cares about the fidelity with the Buttkickers. However, I seem to be only able to get a signal for the BKs via the "Front" connection. I will follow your suggestion, as another cable arrives tomorrow. Is your suggestion that I use the "Front" and "Rear" connections, or is that irrelevant? Thanks again for your time.

It's largely irrelevant for tactile as it will use any of the channels of the sound card, provided Windows is set up as such. So for any tactile dedicated sound cards, it's suggested to enable at least 5.1 output. Front L/R and rear L/R just makes the most sense to use, if you only have 4 units. I have 8, so 6 come from one sound card and another two on a USB sound card / amp. So I use front L/R, rear L/R and center / sub channels.
 
Hoping this is an appropriate thread to ask for bass shaker setup help as I’d feel like a nuisance making a thread for a (hopefully) simple question.

Im hoping to do a DIY bass shaker build and need to know the scope of the build before setting a budget to save for. Haven’t done research into simhub vs simvibe yet. At this point, I ideally wanted 7 bass shakers. One at each corner of my Trak Racer TR80 to simulate each tire and suspension, as well as one under my pedal plate (pedals are Inverted though) and one on each side of my seat due to “lateral g” effects which I just learned are a thing.

I have heard, however, that having shakers at the four corners of a rig is pointless, especially in VR (which is what I use) since you can’t tell where the shaking is coming from. Is this the truth or is this a lack of rubber isolation material?

Just want to know if I should be looking for all 7 bass shakers or if I just get the 3 and call it done. Also not sure what rubber isolation material is good to use so any input on that would help too.

Tl;dr - Aluminum rig with inverted pedals. Should I buy bass shakers for all four corners and seat+pedal plate or just seat and pedal plate? Also, what to use for isolation material?
 
Hoping this is an appropriate thread to ask for bass shaker setup help as I’d feel like a nuisance making a thread for a (hopefully) simple question.

Im hoping to do a DIY bass shaker build and need to know the scope of the build before setting a budget to save for. Haven’t done research into simhub vs simvibe yet. At this point, I ideally wanted 7 bass shakers. One at each corner of my Trak Racer TR80 to simulate each tire and suspension, as well as one under my pedal plate (pedals are Inverted though) and one on each side of my seat due to “lateral g” effects which I just learned are a thing.

I have heard, however, that having shakers at the four corners of a rig is pointless, especially in VR (which is what I use) since you can’t tell where the shaking is coming from. Is this the truth or is this a lack of rubber isolation material?

Just want to know if I should be looking for all 7 bass shakers or if I just get the 3 and call it done. Also not sure what rubber isolation material is good to use so any input on that would help too.

Tl;dr - Aluminum rig with inverted pedals. Should I buy bass shakers for all four corners and seat+pedal plate or just seat and pedal plate? Also, what to use for isolation material?
I would focus on pedal plate and seat.
Corners, the vibration energy tend to dissipate all along the sim rig before your body feeling where they come from
 
I agree, forget the corners, just think about tactile coming from the front and rear.

Simhub is the most flexible in this regard. I mostly just have rpm, wheel slip, a bit of road vibration and kerbs. The seat and the pedals can certainly use a lot of tactile though - so I wouldnt dial back to just a couple unless they were powerful units.

Its amazing in VR what percentage of tactile drops off. I.e. you can tune it on a screen but as soon as you put on the headset it feels like someone turned down the gain by 40%
 
I went with four Butt Kicker LFE transducers. One under the seat, one on the lumbar area of the seat, then two on the pedal plate. I use two NX-3000D amps, and I think that I went too far and could have saved some bucks. The two BK-LFEs on the pedal plate are way overkill, one would have been sufficient. I think the under the seat transducer would have been enough.

I would suggest to go small and then build up if you think you NEED more vibration. Best of luck with your rig build.
 
I went with four Butt Kicker LFE transducers. One under the seat, one on the lumbar area of the seat, then two on the pedal plate. I use two NX-3000D amps, and I think that I went too far and could have saved some bucks. The two BK-LFEs on the pedal plate are way overkill, one would have been sufficient. I think the under the seat transducer would have been enough.

I would suggest to go small and then build up if you think you NEED more vibration. Best of luck with your rig build.
The combo that Mr Latte came up with of tst/lfe combo is really the way to go for the same cost. If I was you I would look to get rid of two lfe's and replace them with TST's.

The TST is great, it fills in what the lfe cannot do and I think I would be far less impressed with two lfe's than one lfe and one tst. I would certainly encourage you to swap out two lfes for two tst's
 
Hi Everyone
I need your help to setup a seat cushion with 4 Dayton TT25-8 bought for a very good price. I would like to have 4 single channel and I will use SimHub. I'm a Noobinsound :)

I bought twice the wrong amplifier 2x2

Lepy LP-269S returned
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B075R626Q8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2M8DEO6BEJ1QF&psc=1

PROZOR HiFi Bluetooth Amplifier 4.1CH ordered and stopped the delivery

Both are 2x2 channels

Reading around I have seen someone using a Home theater 5.1 or 7.1 , really chaeap on the used market. I have found an ampli Teac AG-15D 7.1 .
Can I achieve with this type of equipment what I'm looking for?

My PC Dell G5 desktop has a 7.1 sound card and the monitor Samsung 43CJ89 also has a two channels stereo I guess. The cushion will be made from a yoga mat.

In the previous pages I can see really high profile setup but I would like only have few bass shakers under my back.
Which could be the best solution to complete my project?

Cheers

 
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You can use an old receiver if it has diskrete 5.1 or 7.1 Inputs, mostly named external in or so.

Works for over a year now for me.

MFG Carsten
thanks !
I have only one cable 3.5 mm Stereo Jack Plug to 2x Phono (RCA) Plugs Lead,
Following the home teather route how the connection will be?

Looking better the PC backside there are only 3 line in https://www.hardware-corner.net/wp-content/uploads/compare/Dell_G5_5090.jpg

I guess I will need
a sound card 5.1 or 7.1.
A different 3,5 cable

How do you indentify a diskrete 5.1/7.1 inputs?

Thanks
 
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Don't let the 5.1/7.1 confuse you. The point was that you need an amp which is capable of multi channel audio (greater than 2) on both the input and output. That might be an old 5.1 amplifier home theater amplifier, but not all of them have multi-channel RCA inputs. You might be better off with a multi-channel amp from Parts Express, or two 2-channel amps.

On the PC side you will need 4 channels of audio, which you might be able to accomplish without any extra hardware. On my PC (it's not a DELL) I can actually override the mic input and turn it into an output. When I plug in an 3.5mm/RCA cable Windows asks me what it is I plugged in. I just tell it it's an output (Line-Out). I do the same for the headphone jack. I just select Line-Out as well. That gives me two stereo outputs which equates to 4 audio channels.

I suspect this is a feature of the Realtek audio chip on my motherboard. You can try it out for yourself and see what happens on your PC.

If you're already using the built in audio for your game audio, you might have no choice but to buy a separate audio add-in card or an external USB audio device.
 
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