Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[blekenbleu]

I have found an ampli Teac AG-15D 7.1 .

That Teac has direct inputs and 125W per channel; it should work fine,
along with a second 3.5mm stereo to 2x RCA plugs and 5.1 sound card, e.g.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DGR9M6M?th=1

How do you identify a discrete 5.1/7.1 inputs?

Search online for images of the back, look for 6-8 RCA inputs labelled "Direct" or so.

 

[Novopaine]

I'd recommend that you connect the two 3.5mm jacks into separate ports\channels on your soundcard rather than a Y splitter, as shown in the Reprobate's picture. That way you'll have control over all four channels

I'm a bit late to the response, but that cable isn't really a Y splitter. It's taking a stereo 3.5mm cable and splitting them into Left and Right XLR connectors. So you will still have two discrete channels. The only issue is the XLR inputs are intended to be used as a "balanced" connection, which is why they have 3 pins (one pin carries an inverted signal). It's a form of noise cancellation. Unless there's some electronics in that "Y", it's only going to be running Unbalanced, and that could introduce audible noise. If it's just for transducers, it might not be a big deal. If it was for speakers, that would be a big no-no if you care about audio quality.

 

[stigs2cousin]

On a Yamaha it is called multichannel input, it has other names too.

I like the receiver idea because you get quality equipment with probably better output power.
On the flipside, these things are quite old as RCA plugs are mostly obsolete.

So you run a higher risk of failure.
But the the financial risc is quite low, I paid 20 to 75€ for mine and they work well.

It could be possible to configure your audio outputs on the PC outputs to drive the tactile, but there are reports that audio and tactile should run from different devices.

I run 5.1audio fron the motherboard audio outputs, four channel tactile from an unexpensive USB soundcard and my headset from an USB soundcard ( 2 channel audio and mic.)

For cables you need 3,5 to RCA cables, each one takes two channels from the 3,5 soundcard plug and splits it to two channels on the amp.

https://www.amazon.de/UGREEN-Splitter-Audiokabel-Klinkenkabel-Metallstecker-schwarz/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=32XEI0DC2YUEQ&keywords=3%2C5+rca&qid=1656187152&sprefix=3+5+rca%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-5

And now do a little research yourself, its all in the web.

Good Luck Carsten

 

[RCHeliguy]

My Yamaha 5.1 reciever was having thermal shutdown issues driving 50W Auras.

They frequently are designed for 6-8 ohm speakers and most transducers start at 4ohm.

I would not think many receivers will work well driving transducers.

 

[stigs2cousin]

I would not think many receivers will work well driving transducers.

There are experiences to the contrary in this thread, eg from @blekenbleu and from me

My 20€ Yamaha (plus a mains plug) is working flawlessly with two Auras, a BST 2 and a Puck.
It's rated to 130 Watts per channel, your mileage with less powerfull amps may vary.
(And I believe some people here drive cars less costly than your rig )


MFG Carsten

 

[Semplix]

Thank you guys it is a bit more clear

So, if I follow the Home theater route
I need
1. 1 home theater - Cheap on the used market
2. 1 sound card 5.1 or 7.1
3. 1 3,5 cable to RCA ( I have already one )

Pro
High number of single channels
Power
Price
Con
Cable
Size, weight
sound card

I'm wondering if the Bluetooth can be used instead of grab another sound card.

When an audio device is connected, SimHub recognizes it as an independent external device.
The idea is to rid of the wires with the PC maintaining the ability to move my rig still swapping with the work monitor.
As said I'm waiting for 80 euro refund from Amazon.
Can this amplifier Douk Audio M4 do the trick?

4x Dayton Audio TT25-8 PUCK - 8 Ohms

Thank you

 

[blekenbleu]

Can this amplifier Douk Audio M4 do the trick?

Keep in mind that amplifier requires (24V) power supply and wiring.,
substantially cancelling cable, size, weight cons.

 

[blekenbleu]

experiences to the contrary

To be fair:

• Although it drove a shaker in the past, my Denon now drives only pucks and exciters.
• I wonder how well isolated were @RCHeliguy structures excited by Auras.
• Receivers delivering appreciably less than 100W/channel are probably doomed for tactile duty, and some may be unhappy driving lower than 20Hz, where shaker impedances become increasingly problematic.

 

[RCHeliguy]

My Yamaha amplifier was 75W per channel if I remember correctly, but I don't think it was designed to handle impedances below 6ohms.

 

[blekenbleu]

home theater amplifier, but not all of them have multi-channel RCA inputs

I have not done this, but Windows can deliver discrete multi-channel audio by HDMI, which will be accepted by more recent receivers.

 

[blekenbleu]

My Yamaha amplifier was 75W per channel if I remember correctly, but I don't think it was designed to handle impedances below 6ohms.

Driving lower impedances works within sources' current limitations;
with a 75W @ 6 Ohm rating, it should be OK delivering
50W into 4 Ohms or 25W into 2 Ohms.
Shakers rated 4 Ohm may drop below 2 Ohms at lower tactile frequencies.
As I recall, a "standard" for audio equipment impedance was 400Hz.

 

[Semplix]

Keep in mind that amplifier requires (24V) power supply and wiring.,
substantially cancelling cable, size, weight cons.

Hi thanks

looks like that it is sold with a Power supply
1 x 24V/4.5A Power Supply

So, using it in bluetooth I should be able to see the 4 channels, wireless with the PC.
Located under the seat with a multi socket I can also power the wheel having in the end the same 2 cables: usb wheel and power.

Until I return to the office I slide the rig back unplugging just two cables.
It is 2 years that it works like a charm

 

[anton_Chez]

Don't use those amps with Bluetooth. Windows BT capabilities are absolutely dog$hit.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Don't use those amps with Bluetooth. Windows BT capabilities are absolutely dog$hit.

Doesn't that by definition require a self amplified speaker?

I've got a wireless box (not bluethooth) driving one of these, but it has a large amplifier built in.

https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-4000

Their wireless box has the following specs.

The rated frequency response for transmission is 6 Hz to 22,000 Hz +/-1 dB, so the adapter also unlocks wireless connectivity for a stereo zone of loudspeakers, powered home theater surround sound speakers, amplifiers and more at CD-quality with ultra-low latency (14 milliseconds) within the 2.4GHz frequency band.

That one channel box is $120. So that might be an expensive way to run transducers.

 

[blekenbleu]

Windows BT capabilities are absolutely dog$hit

BT latency is one concern, but signal integrity can be improved
by using a USB BT dongle nearer the device.

2 cables: usb wheel and power

Arguably, that is all anyone needs:

1. USB to a good powered hub on the rig (or in my case, wheel stand)
2. AC power to a distribution box or strip on the rig.

 

[Semplix]

BT latency is one concern, but signal integrity can be improved
by using a USB BT dongle nearer the device.


Arguably, that is all anyone needs:

1. USB to a good powered hub on the rig (or in my case, wheel stand)
2. AC power to a distribution box or strip on the rig.

If the latency in bluetooth will be really a concern I can use the two RCA IN.
In this case I will also need a Sound card 5.1 and a good USB powered hub.

As a really cheap/first attempt can the ampli be used for the scope? I can return it.

 

[blekenbleu]

can the ampli be used for the scope

No.

1. 50W/channel is not much, depending on your tactile transducer installation
2. This amplifier's rating is simply a lie
   - 24V * 4.5A power is is only 108W input;
   - where do missing (4*50)-(108*.95) = 98 Watts output come from?
   - where good real amplifiers are <= 95% efficient
3. I am fairly certain that amplifier does NOT include the required 24V @ 4.5A supply.

 

[Semplix]

No.

1. 50W/channel is not much, depending on your tactile transducer installation
2. This amplifier's rating is simply a lie
   - 24V * 4.5A power is is only 108W input;
   - where do missing (4*50)-(108*.95) = 98 Watts output come from?
   - where good real amplifiers are <= 95% efficient
3. I am fairly certain that amplifier does NOT include the required 24V @ 4.5A supply.

1) I thought I had to connect red and black wires in the back, one per channel, the trasducer are 15 watts RMS/30 watts max
2) I dont know... you are the boss
3) According to what's in the Amazon page and one openbox the power supply is included

Now if you want to run 4 Dayton TT25/8 without researcing high/max fidelity but to enjoy the shakers, what could be your 2 best cheapest and a medium setup options?

 

[blekenbleu]

1) I thought I had to connect red and black wires in the back, one per channel, the trasducer are 15 watts RMS/30 watts max

Such transducers may be OK with this approx 20W/channel amplifier;
I apologize for supposing some typical bass shakers.

2) I dont know... you are the boss

Not now, maybe never, but arithmetic always works.

3) According to what's in the Amazon page and one openbox the power supply is included

Sorry again (still?); I saw power supply neither in images nor description;
I find it now in the packing list.

 

[anton_Chez]

It's not just the latency. I have NEVER been able to achieve any acceptable audio quality or stability with any BT device on my PC with a dongle. The BT amps are fine, just not using them with BT.