Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Peterpan6666]

I've used a lot of these types bobbins and buffers on my rig (have a bag full of all different sizes lol)

Wouldn't drilling through that and putting the solid bolt between your connection points negate any isolation effect?

I have only today, finally got everything up and running. When I was advised to go with the bolt I had the same reservation however was informed that without it the movement would be too excessive. I’d say that was good advice given I wouldn't like to see any more movement than I have currently, using the drilled buffer feet and bolt. When I checked out how much vibration was leaking through to the lower part of the rig it was minimal. Not completely gone but almost unnoticeable. This may also be due, in part, to the fact that both transducers are attached to the fibreglass seat which will certainly contain much of the energy and that was evident when I felt the seat brackets which vibrated less than I would have expected.

I’m looking to acquire the RaceBass vibration isolators and have emailed Simtag, so well see.


EDIT: Just to add, when I rocked the seat side to side there was significant movement which I wasn’t expecting. Not an issue because it doesn’t happen while driving. You’d expect the same amount of movement forward and back but this isn’t the case due to the flex within the seat itself absorbing the ability of the buffers to create unwanted flex. At no stage did I notice any difference while braking than had I had the seat bolted directly to the aluminium profle.

The bumpers I use on the brake pedal are rated at 210 pounds (95 kg) so that is a lot of force pushing backward on this particular rig.

 

[Peterpan6666]

 

[Callsign BH]

US based guys that did the Noctua fan mod on their NX3000D’s, did you use a fan cable adapter? If yes, could you link the one you used please?

On my first NX3000D, I snipped the wire and soldered the Noctua cable with the factory connector…but that will void the warranty, if I ever need to use it. In the case of a warranty claim, I’d like to keep this stock fan totally in tact so I can swap it in to either unit — so looking to find a 3 pin to 2 pin adapter.

edit: this is the fan, if useful

Amazon.com

 

[EsxPaul]

US based guys that did the Noctua fan mod on their NX3000D’s, did you use a fan cable adapter? If yes, could you link the one you used please?

On my first NX3000D, I snipped the wire and soldered the Noctua cable with the factory connector…but that will void the warranty, if I ever need to use it. In the case of a warranty claim, I’d like to keep this stock fan totally in tact so I can swap it in to either unit — so looking to find a 3 pin to 2 pin adapter.

edit: this is the fan, if useful

Amazon.com

No need to get involved with fan adapter cables

Remove the original 2 pin white plastic fan connector housing from the Behringer board and plug in your 3 pin Noctua as shown in this video

That connector can be refitted if warranty is ever needed

 

[chris82009]

No need to get involved with fan adapter cables

Remove the original 2 pin white plastic fan connector housing from the Behringer board and plug in your 3 pin Noctua as shown in this video

That connector can be refitted if warranty is ever needed

I think the Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800 would be a better choice than the be quiet one. It is supposedly quieter and has more airflow than the be quiet one showed in the video.

 

[chris82009]

I am finally getting to the end stages of my new sim rig build.
My new Fanatec cslDD, wheels, v3 pedals, shifter, and e-brake setup should be coming in within the next month or two. I have 4 x BKA's and have one Inuke 1000dsp and one nx1000D in coming in the next few months. I arranged two BKA's under the seat in a left & right configuration. I was originally planning on putting the other two under (or on each side of) my pedal deck/pedals in left/right as well. However, after reading some of the forums it seems like maybe just putting one under the pedals would be fine for simulating front wheel traction loss and road bumps/curbs. Especially, since I am using the Fanatec clubsport v3 pedals which already have two very small rumblers on the pedals themselves that simulate traction loss to some degree. I could then put the 4th one on the seat to simulate Engine RPM's/Shift or something else. Any advice/thoughts regarding which option would be better would be appreciated. Also, the main reason I am posting is because I was wondering where I could find the proper settings for the 1000dsp and the nx1000d to reduce piston bang etc. I have never used the software before, so I do not know a lot about them or how to try setting them up correctly for my usage. I have been trying to read through here and while I have seen my setup mentioned. I have not seen any actual settings for them.

 

[Peterpan6666]

No need to get involved with fan adapter cables

Remove the original 2 pin white plastic fan connector housing from the Behringer board and plug in your 3 pin Noctua as shown in this video

That connector can be refitted if warranty is ever needed

Agreed. I did it like this just two days ago. I initially, painstakingly removed most of the glue from the white glued connectors and then used a heat gun to remove the last of it. After separating the connectors I realised that the Notua NF-A8’s connector wasn’t a fit for the part left on the board. At that point I remembered a video I’d seen and simply pulled the remaining white connector off the board revealing two small pins. It’s these pins that fit into two of the three holes on the notua fan connector. It’s a snug fit so adding glue is not required. I recommend simply pulling the two glued white parts straight off the board, leaving them glued together. Very easy to reinstate should it need to go back.

Tips: Make sure to remember the orientation of the old fan prior to removal so the new fan also pulls air into the case.
Also, if using the Noctua fan, take a close look at the colours by bending the connector back slightly so that the three wires are slightly exposed. Ensure to match two of them with the colours of the original fan, so make sure to note down which side is red and which side is black as you remove the original fan connector from the board.

By the way, the sound improvement was amazing. Literally silent now.

 

[Callsign BH]

I’ll hit the glue with a heat gun to loosen it up a slight bit, then pull the connector clean off.

The sound improvement is indeed impressive. When I did the mod on the first amp I was afraid I had botched the soldering on the wires because I couldn’t hear it…then I turned it around and was relieved to see the fan was running.

 

[BP]

Sorry if this has been discussed (260 pages…whew), but has anyone used transducers under the pedal plate in addition to Sim3D pedal motors (at the same time)?

I have an 80/20 rig with a non-bucket seat (Sparco R333), planning to add a buttkicker LFE under the seat, a Buttkicker Advance bolted to the pedal plate and Sim3D motors to my Meca Cup1 pedals. My plan is to bolt the LFE to either MDF board or a steel plate and sandwich that between the seat and the sliders.

1. Will it be too much going on at the pedals (signals not distinct enough or one overpowering the other)?
2. Will the LFE under seat by itself be enough to convey engine rumble, gear shifts, bumps/kerbs and traction loss?
3. Will the Behringer NX1000D be enough for both Buttkickers or should I step up to the NX3000D? (Amp recommendations are welcome)
4. Any other suggestions?

so…nobody?

 

[Peterpan6666]

so…nobody?

Hi bud, wish I could be of help answering your questions specifically but I am new to all this myself. For what it’s worth, I read around the first 30 pages of this thread and then skipped to the last 100 and read all of them. Took a couple of days and quite a few hours but it didn’t feel like a chore as I was keen to absorb as much info as I could. Even the last few pages cover my short journey in chosing the NX3000D and bolting a BK Concert plus TST 329 directly to my chair vs using a piece of chipboard or aluminium. Now which of those three is the best method? Well guidance in here would often come in the form of suggesting you try all methods and settle on what actually works best for you based upon your own experience.

Regarding your questions, I’ll leave it for the more experienced to give you some feedback. Best of luck!

 

[Cameltotem]

Dire need of help reducing vibration and noise.

I've got a basic Reckhorn transducer and the 100w nobsound amp and it works great mounted under my Micro RTS seat.

However I do find running it at even 40% volume it makes way too much noise and vibrations.

I bought these "anti vibration" pads for washmachines thinking it would solve all my issues but honestly I don't think it did anything at all.

I've seen people using "sound isolation mats" claiming it works wonders, something like these.

Would that be a better option? I feel like im grasping at straws here but anything that helps me would make me a happy simracer and my wife would be calm as a spring flower!

 

[blekenbleu]

mounted under my Micro RTS seat.

Better to isolate seat and shaker from the rest of the chassis
than allow that tactile energy into the chassis.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Dire need of help reducing vibration and noise.

I've got a basic Reckhorn transducer and the 100w nobsound amp and it works great mounted under my Micro RTS seat.

However I do find running it at even 40% volume it makes way too much noise and vibrations.

I bought these "anti vibration" pads for washmachines thinking it would solve all my issues but honestly I don't think it did anything at all.


View attachment 528850
View attachment 528849

I've seen people using "sound isolation mats" claiming it works wonders, something like these.
View attachment 528851

Would that be a better option? I feel like im grasping at straws here but anything that helps me would make me a happy simracer and my wife would be calm as a spring flower!

A quick and easy way to keep the vibrations from entering the floor would be to some kind of "adjustable feet" to frame of your rig.

Hightech solution here:

Adjustable Feet (Sim-lab) - Puresims

The sim-lab adjustable feet are a nice touch to your rig. Not only does it make it look more slick it becomes easier to get in and out of.

pure-sims.com

but I think a simple angle bracket, a bolt with large head and two nuts set on top of your dampers should help.

In the end @blekenbleu is right, for the best experience you´ll have to isolate seat and pedal tray from the rig.

MFG Carsten

 

[Cameltotem]

Thank you. I've been thinking about some adjustable feets too. However trying out a few things yesterday I noticed that my actual mounting of the transducer might be an root cause.

I've used double sided tape that holds it good in place. However that causes it not lie 100% flat against the surface and probably adds a lot of vibrations. I was thinking of just drilling it down in my seat, but never drilled into glassfiber before so not sure how to proceed hmm.

 

[anton_Chez]

Regular HSS drill bit will be fine. You won't need to drill too hard, it's pretty soft when it comes to drilling holes. Just try your best to not grab the fabric and tear it as the drill bit is spinning. Hold it tight when the bit is about to pass through.

 

[Cameltotem]

Regular HSS drill bit will be fine. You won't need to drill too hard, it's pretty soft when it comes to drilling holes. Just try your best to not grab the fabric and tear it as the drill bit is spinning. Hold it tight when the bit is about to pass through.

Great stuff! Thanks

 

[Cameltotem]

Would these above do the same job as those bolt ones? Unless there is something internal going on it should be the same effect right?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Check this thread for description of the problem with these rubber bobbins and solution.

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/isolation-for-rig-on-wheels-in-apartment-block-inc-tactile-feedback.206140/

 

[chris82009]

Has anyone had any issues with the Creative sound cards not being recognized by your computer? I put one in yesterday and my computer is acting like it isn’t even there. I’m thinking it’s defective and going to order another but was just curious if I was just missing something.

 

[anton_Chez]

I get weird sound issues on boot up sometimes, but the card is always recognised. Sometimes I need to open the Creative software and the sounds comes back, other times I only have the sub channel working and have to reboot, like exactly right now. So annoying.