Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Deleted member 197115]

Why couldn't you use metal washer in between rail and isolator to prevent rail to rubber contact, like in my setup.

 

[paladin21]

Why couldn't you use metal washer in between rail and isolator to prevent rail to rubber contact, like in my setup

you know I havent thought about it .... i ll try it with a nylon washer

 

[chris82009]

you know I havent thought about it .... i ll try it with a nylon washer

I think he is saying a metal one so it won't squeak...but then you run into maybe scratching the rig so I don't know. I would try to make sure I thighten it down good either way so it hopefully does not move.

 

[paladin21]

as we side tracked a bit...if anyone has any info on the details below please let me know

1. drill holes and mount TST429 & BK LFE directly on the pedal plate or add them on a different one?
2. mount the same set as above directly on the seat or on a plate close to the seat?
3. is anyone aware of a simhub profile for 2 sets of TST429/BK LFE and any settings for the NX3000D ?

many thanks guys

 

[metalnwood]

as we side tracked a bit...if anyone has any info on the details below please let me know

1. drill holes and mount TST429 & BK LFE directly on the pedal plate or add them on a different one?
2. mount the same set as above directly on the seat or on a plate close to the seat?
3. is anyone aware of a simhub profile for 2 sets of TST429/BK LFE and any settings for the NX3000D ?

many thanks guys

No reason to not mount tst/bk direct to your pedal plate - unless you have a specific reason. for instance I had a specific reason.. I swapped out my rudder pedals for racing pedals and wanted tactile for both.

So I made a plate that I mounted the tactile to and used quick released to add and remove my different pedals to that. If I didnt need to do that, it would be easier to just add tactile to the pedal plate.

Personally I wouldnt bolt LFE/TST directly to the seat. I have 4040 profile spanning the bottom of the seat mounts and I put them there. They will distribute the tactile better.

Re number 3. I would look at the racebass profiles. email simtag about it.

 

[paladin21]

No reason to not mount tst/bk direct to your pedal plate - unless you have a specific reason. for instance I had a specific reason.. I swapped out my rudder pedals for racing pedals and wanted tactile for both.

So I made a plate that I mounted the tactile to and used quick released to add and remove my different pedals to that. If I didnt need to do that, it would be easier to just add tactile to the pedal plate.

Personally I wouldnt bolt LFE/TST directly to the seat. I have 4040 profile spanning the bottom of the seat mounts and I put them there. They will distribute the tactile better.

Re number 3. I would look at the racebass profiles. email simtag about it.

did you mount them under the seat just on the 40x40 ? or made a plate and mounted them there held by 40x40? do they need to be mounted on a plate to distribute the tactile?

 

[metalnwood]

did you mount them under the seat just on the 40x40 ? or made a plate and mounted them there held by 40x40? do they need to be mounted on a plate to distribute the tactile?

A bit of both. Zoom in here to have a look

 

[paladin21]

awesome! thank you very much for these pictures they are of great help

does it make a difference for TST if it is mounted as you have it like this or the disk being on the upper side towards the seat?

 

[Peterpan6666]

as we side tracked a bit...if anyone has any info on the details below please let me know

1. drill holes and mount TST429 & BK LFE directly on the pedal plate or add them on a different one?
2. mount the same set as above directly on the seat or on a plate close to the seat?
3. is anyone aware of a simhub profile for 2 sets of TST429/BK LFE and any settings for the NX3000D ?

many thanks guys

I’ve just finished working on my seat and was pleasantly surprised I got both the BK CT and the TST329 mounted directly. I used metal washers which have a layer of rubber on them, to help protect the fiberglass seat from possible cracking. Hope you find these pics usefull.

 

[Peterpan6666]

For my first attempt at vibrtion isolation I went with “female buffer foots” which look like male to male bobbins but aren’t. They are infact female ended and I have drilled through the centre to allow for a 60mm bolt.

 

[paladin21]

that looks like a very clean job!

 

[verysorry]

Wondering if someone can help me out with getting rid of the audio coming out of a TST 329. I usually race with headphones so never was a big deal until an infant came around. Audio isn't coming out of any of the buttkickers I have, just the CS. It's hooked up to an NX3000D if that matters. Thanks!

 

[metalnwood]

Wondering if someone can help me out with getting rid of the audio coming out of a TST 329. I usually race with headphones so never was a big deal until an infant came around. Audio isn't coming out of any of the buttkickers I have, just the CS. It's hooked up to an NX3000D if that matters. Thanks!

When you say audio, do you mean the sound it makes at various frequencies? This cant be avoided other than removing those frequencies. That should be more a problem if you are using game shound rather than a simhub kind of solution.

The other culprit is that you have something pointed to the wrong sound device sending other audio. You need to find out what app is ding that. You can right click on the sound icon in the windows task bar, select mixer and then select the sound card you are using for tactile. It should show you what apps are using it. Generally it should only be simhub.

 

[cnhoff]

Wondering if someone can help me out with getting rid of the audio coming out of a TST 329. I usually race with headphones so never was a big deal until an infant came around. Audio isn't coming out of any of the buttkickers I have, just the CS. It's hooked up to an NX3000D if that matters. Thanks!

Adding to what metaInwood said...

What you are hearing might also be higher harmonics of the frequencies you are actually using. You can configure a lowpass filter with a cutoff frequency at 180-200Hz to get rid of higher frequency content. You might also want to add a highpass in the 35-ish Hz range, as the TST is not useable below that anyway and your BK should take over.

 

[Gregb143]

So as these forums do not seem to have a place specific for general chat, questions or people sharing their own tactile experiences. I thought it might be a good thing to start one.

General banter, or show your rigs, discuss what you have, perhaps what you like or dislike.
Technical queries, issues or offer your own user opinions and experiences. What has excited you or has left you wondering or scratching your head?


Below are some threads I have attempted to do to help or try to engage with the community.

Useful Links:

• Cable & Connectors Guide (Old & References To Simvibe)
• Tactile Perspective / Audio Terminology Glossary
• Do You Have This Combo? Behringer Inuke DSP Amplifier & Buttkicker?
• Simvibe : Comparing EM Vs CM Installations
• Behringer NXD Help (Guidelines On Using Behringer DSP)
  
  

Can someone please explain how these cables connect to dayton exciters?

Cordial EL 5 LL 215 elements

Cordial EL 5 LL 215 elements - Lautsprecherkabel, Speaker Twist (2-pol) auf Speaker Twist (2-pol), Leiterquerschnitt: 2x 1,5 mm², PVC Mantel, Durchmesser: 8.0 mm, Länge: 5 m, Farbe: schwarz

www.thomann.de

 

[metalnwood]

Can someone please explain how these cables connect to dayton exciters?

Cordial EL 5 LL 215 elements

Cordial EL 5 LL 215 elements - Lautsprecherkabel, Speaker Twist (2-pol) auf Speaker Twist (2-pol), Leiterquerschnitt: 2x 1,5 mm², PVC Mantel, Durchmesser: 8.0 mm, Länge: 5 m, Farbe: schwarz

www.thomann.de

If you want to use those you will have to attach the correct part to the exciter for those cables to attach to.

If you only need that cable to attach to your amplifier and don't care about a long cable on your exciter then just unscrew one end of your cable and remove the speaking connector. That will leave you two bare wires to either solder on to the exciters or crimp on a connector.

 

[Gregb143]

If you want to use those you will have to attach the correct part to the exciter for those cables to attach to.

If you only need that cable to attach to your amplifier and don't care about a long cable on your exciter then just unscrew one end of your cable and remove the speaking connector. That will leave you two bare wires to either solder on to the exciters or crimp on a connector.

Thanks! Does that mean I would need 4 of these wires?

 

[metalnwood]

Thanks! Does that mean I would need 4 of these wires?

For most setups yes, if you are using the 304 amp (which maybe I saw your name on discord and you are) then its one per transducer. I use cable wrap to keep things tidy and fit 6 cables in it to keep things clean.

It would be cheaper getting one of these for each pair of exciters, that way you can chop it in half to get the two bare wires.

https://www.thomann.de/at/cordial_el_10_ll_215_elements.htm

You would want to do something to secure the end that goes to the exciter so it doesnt tug on the joints.

 

[bondyboy]

For my first attempt at vibrtion isolation I went with “female buffer foots” which look like male to male bobbins but aren’t. They are infact female ended and I have drilled through the centre to allow for a 60mm bolt.

View attachment 525943View attachment 525944

I've used a lot of these types bobbins and buffers on my rig (have a bag full of all different sizes lol)

Wouldn't drilling through that and putting the solid bolt between your connection points negate any isolation effect?

 

[BP]

Sorry if this has been discussed (260 pages…whew), but has anyone used transducers under the pedal plate in addition to Sim3D pedal motors (at the same time)?

I have an 80/20 rig with a non-bucket seat (Sparco R333), planning to add a buttkicker LFE under the seat, a Buttkicker Advance bolted to the pedal plate and Sim3D motors to my Meca Cup1 pedals. My plan is to bolt the LFE to either MDF board or a steel plate and sandwich that between the seat and the sliders.

1. Will it be too much going on at the pedals (signals not distinct enough or one overpowering the other)?
2. Will the LFE under seat by itself be enough to convey engine rumble, gear shifts, bumps/kerbs and traction loss?
3. Will the Behringer NX1000D be enough for both Buttkickers or should I step up to the NX3000D? (Amp recommendations are welcome)
4. Any other suggestions?