Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

So then it is true the wire retained fabric on these race seat isn't designed to be removed? I had thought the wire would have had a spring section so you could stretch the wire/ fabric over the outer edges, but then I pulled on it and discovered it had no give at all!
 
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So then it is true the wire retained fabric on these race seat isn't designed to be removed? I had thought the wire would have had a spring section so you could stretch the wire/ fabric over the outer edges, but then I pulled on it and discovered it had no give at all!
Mine come with the spring not connected under the front part to join the cable but it’s mind blowing tight, there is inches of gap there I tried a few times to connect it even with the wife pulling it also, never managed it so left it,
But had the covers off it and put back 0 issues at all.
 
So then it is true the wire retained fabric on these race seat isn't designed to be removed? I had thought the wire would have had a spring section so you could stretch the wire/ fabric over the outer edges, but then I pulled on it and discovered it had no give at all!

I can remove the fabric retaining spring easily but the fabric doesn't budge one bit. It seems to be glued in place and I didn't fancy attempting to rip it off.
 
Hi, have been playing around and started my edits from romainrob's profile. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, except one thing that is driving me nuts.

Has anyone else noticed a delay with simhub? I didn't notice this at first, since it isn't that obvious or critical with many of the effects. But in AMS2, my DD wheel reacts to curbs noticeably before the tactile kicks in. Anyone else felt this?
 
Hi, have been playing around and started my edits from romainrob's profile. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, except one thing that is driving me nuts.

Has anyone else noticed a delay with simhub? I didn't notice this at first, since it isn't that obvious or critical with many of the effects. But in AMS2, my DD wheel reacts to curbs noticeably before the tactile kicks in. Anyone else felt this?
Are you using the free or paid version maybe that’s the difference I use the licensed one haven’t noticed anything out of sync
 
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Are you using the free or paid version maybe that’s the difference I use the licensed one haven’t noticed anything out of sync
I'm using the paid version, no delays set. But the delay is clearly there, not noticeable on other effects since it might be hard to spot. But curb effects start noticeable earlier on the wheel, compared to the tactile units. :) The delay might of course also occur in the soundcard, or amplifier. Although I find that more unlikely. Ahh I just had a thought. I'm using APO with low and high-pass filters. There might be something going on there. I'll try and disable it tomorrow.
 
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I'm using the paid version, no delays set. But the delay is clearly there, not noticeable on other effects since it might be hard to spot. But curb effects start noticeable earlier on the wheel, compared to the tactile units. :) The delay might of course also occur in the soundcard, or amplifier. Although I find that more unlikely. Ahh I just had a thought. I'm using APO with low and high-pass filters. There might be something going on there. I'll try and disable it tomorrow.
Yeah I dont use any filters seems pretty live and spot on to me,
was driving ACC day before yesterday and I could swear blind I could feel the chassis flexing felt magical :D
 
  • Deleted member 197115

Hi, have been playing around and started my edits from romainrob's profile. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, except one thing that is driving me nuts.

Has anyone else noticed a delay with simhub? I didn't notice this at first, since it isn't that obvious or critical with many of the effects. But in AMS2, my DD wheel reacts to curbs noticeably before the tactile kicks in. Anyone else felt this?
SimHub was just updated, check if this fixes the issue, if not, it's AMS2 isolated.
  • Simplified high priority setting (removed introduced delay)
 
Hey all, I'd like to share my input, if it is of any help to folks- a sound engineer in a past life and now test software, however one of my passions is very much tactile with motion. I own a 3dof sim with traction loss, but prior to that had a full simvibe set up with 8 transducers, of which I have now migrated to my my motion rig. I've use many softwares - still do, including simhub, SRS, Simshaker Wheels and Simvibe (my favourite) -and presently my set up is as follows;
  • 6 transducers presently (8 is overkill with my motion set up), consisting of;
  • 1 ADX Maximus isolated beneath the pedal plate, (using engine mounts), with leverage on a sprung footplate to direct the vibrations where they are best needed
  • 2 Reckhorn pucks, currently inn the back of my seat, but aiming to moving the back to be mounted on extensions for rear left/right feedback
  • 2 Buttkicer G2's up for front L/R (I have another 2 Buttkickers, but they are relatively heavy, so may swap them to the rear dependent on the Reckhorns performance
  • 1 Clark Synthesis underneath the wheel - an excellent transducer providing very nice feedback indeed, not the strongest, but excellent for engine sounds
  • Powered by a cloud CX-6 Amp (6x channels, 120w per channel @4ohms
  • I also have a back up CX-6 and a few other amps, as well as the original Buttkicker amps
  • Allen and Heath 6 Channel EQ and dynamics unit
  • Realteus Force Feel Seatpad
  • Transducers controlled by Simvibe and Force Feel controlled by Simshaker Wheels
The result are nothing short of fantastic, an even better with motion, but always looking for improvements, different placement of transducers and tweaks etcs - placement being one of the most effective and easiest things to do to improve feel, and very much worth experimenting with, however I digress!

@DiLFe out of interested are you using an inbuilt soundcard or a usb one? I know the usb ones can introduce lag from my experience.. just a thought...

In any event, my preference is definitely using Simvibe, although Simhub does have some advantages, but that's just me!

One amp I hadn't seen until now was the thomann, which if you arent using transducers that go down to 2ohms looks pretty good - not all transducers require this, so worth looking at.
EQ and dynamics are very helpful in flattening response in your room, so the Behrinnger DSP amp certainly is attractive, but worth considering there are other ways of achieving this with separate units, though they can be hard to find (Allen and Heath offer some as mentioned above).

Isolating transducers can provide a nice effect too, often I find the aluminium extrusions frames a bit too ridged , so worth considering using engine mounts to isolate them - can work well.

Anyways, hope I can help contribute a little more moving forwards - tactile was my first project with my first solid rig and is just not an option to ignore if you upgrade to a motion rig - its even more important and vital I would argue in fact! Driving with motion without tactile is a little like watching tv without the sound on!! Happy to help where I can - I'm not an expert, but have a little experience, so be happy to help and contribute :)
 
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@DiLFe out of interested are you using an inbuilt soundcard or a usb one? I know the usb ones can introduce lag from my experience.. just a thought...
Thanks for the idea. Currently running an integrated realtek soundcard. But I'll try updating simhub next, also try another game and finally disable APO. I'll post here when I've tried it today! :)
 
  • Deleted member 197115

The update didn´t unfortunately help, but it seems to be AMS2 related. I tried iRacing and could not notice any delay.
Yeah, Reiza has a long way to go to fix that broken Madness legacy.
 
Hi all. For the last few months I've been using a couple of Dayton pucks on the pedal deck of my Playseat Challenge, and a single Monacor BR-50 mounted to a bit of wood and cable tied to the back legs. It looks a complete shambles but works like a charm!

I had a few beers the other night and accidentally ordered an 8020 rig and a Recaro Trendline seat from a Civic Type R Anniversary Edition. Very exciting, but I now have to find a way to mount the big(ish) Monacor shaker to the seat.

The bottom of the seat is made of what seems to be pretty sturdy plastic, so I was hoping I might be able to just screw the shaker into the bottom of the seat with some self tapping screws.

Any opinions on this welcome! Would the self tappers alone be enough to hold it there or would the vibrations shake it loose? Equally, would that be a good spot for transmitting the vibrations efficiently? I'd imagine it should be as it'd be directly under my arse.

Here's a photo showing the bottom of the seat:

28B5338A-5E79-4874-B49C-CEFE3F5CE975.jpeg


Any opinions gratefully received, before I take a drill to my beautiful seat!
 
And here's the seat in all its glory!

View attachment 409662
Nice looking seat! I'm wondering if you could use rivets but I guess that depends on the size of the fixing holes on the shaker. Would definitely give you secure fixings. My only concern is possibly getting rattles from the plastic part you're fixing it to. Is it part of the seat frame structure or is it to do with seat heating/cooling? I'm struggling to tell from the photo.
 
Nice looking seat! I'm wondering if you could use rivets but I guess that depends on the size of the fixing holes on the shaker. Would definitely give you secure fixings. My only concern is possibly getting rattles from the plastic part you're fixing it to. Is it part of the seat frame structure or is it to do with seat heating/cooling? I'm struggling to tell from the photo.

Thanks for replying man!

The seat base seems to be one big piece of heavy duty plastic, which is attached to metal rails (which I'm planning on fitting to bucket seat brackets, using some rubber bushing things to try and decouple it from the aluminium rig).

On the other side of the plastic is the cushioning foam, but there's no way I can see of getting my hands in there to fix a bolt to the other side of the screw.

I'm about as far from "handy" when it comes to this kind of thing as it's possible to get, so I'm just trying to work out something that would do the job without requiring a degree in engineering/destroying my seat/having tiny, withered hands.

So, essentially I'm hoping I can just fix the fairly heavy bass shaker to that bit of plastic and for it to a) deliver good results and b) not rattle itself loose after a couple of laps of Sebring.

There is no heating, cooling, airbags or anything remotely high tech in the seat at all. It's just a big, sexy, comfortable lump of seat that I realised immediately after taking delivery of it isn't particularly suited to a house inhabited by children who don't care about my stuff and cats who are just arseholes and scratch everything in sight.
 
I just updated to the latest SimHub this morning.
Had Crew Chief Updates, iRacing Updates and a number of others.

Right now I'm running the following:

RPM - Configured just for a lumpy idle that disappears about 2100 rpm.
Dynamic RPM - which seems to work well along with the RPM.
RPM only goes to one Aura Pro mounted to my wheel base upright supports so I feel it in my sequential shifter, H pattern shifter, hand brake and even the steering wheel a bit.

Wheel Slide Front ( two Aura's under my foot plate which is isolated on 4 corners and pinned center front)
Wheel Slide Back ( under seat BK Concert )

Note: Wheel Slide is important so they have the check box checked so they take precedence.

Shift thunk - Goes to Seat only

Road Vibration and Impact go to front Auras and rear Concert.

Since I added the Concert, I've found I am getting all the impact I want in the seat.

I've also found that having that one Aura on the wheel upright dedicated to rpm seems to work better.

The NX4-6000 has all the power I need for these 4 channels and everything seems clean.

I've been using it enough to be comfortable that the repair is going to hold and I'm ready to put the quieter Noctua fans in place.

I think I finally have settings in iRacing that work pretty well on most cars.

I'm still not happy with my Dirt Rally 2.0 settings, I'm going to work on that some more.
 
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i've a problem with my transducers and the soundcard.

I've 4 transducers and one Buttkicker Gamer 2. The Buttkicker is attached to the Buttkicker amp and connected with a jack to the Creative internal soundcard.
The four transducers are connected with speakercable to a Sony STR amp. This amp makes a connection with the soundcard by 4x a jack cable. The mode on the amp is Multi channel.

The transducers are giving me a tone when I press the testtone button on the Sony amp.
But when I press test in the Simhub software for each channel there's none working.

What is the correct way to connect the channels of the amp to the soundcard?

sound-blaster-audigy-sound-cards-audio-adapters-creative-rx-sb-audigy-sound-card-creative-labs-creative-computer-png-clip-art-thumbnail.png


In Simhub I have selected cutom channels and in the settings in Windows of the soundcard I've selected 5.1.
 

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