Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

Hey guys,

Long time lurker first time poster,I have started to gather all the parts needed for tactile
just want to make sure I have everything I need.

8x dayton exciters
2x Douk m4 amps
1x NX3000D
2x dayton bass shakers (got open box deal 2 for $40 so couldn't pass on it)
1x Large LFE
1X Dual XLR (M) to TRS 3.5
1X Speakon to banana plugs
speaker wire 14 AWG
crimp bits and crimp tool
6X RCA to 3.5

my onboard audio is 7.1 channel
my headset and mic run through an audio interface so onboard sound card is free

All of this will be going onto a Trak racer TR80

Couple of questions I have is what extra sound card will I need?
plan is to add another large LFE down the road (with another cable for it)

and to run the dayton bass shakers for shifter and handbrake off single channel.
what cheap amp would work for the 2 bass shakers for single channel?

Thanks guys! Amazing amount of info here,that I hope one day I can contribute to
Once I understand all of it that is haha.
@Wotever who created the Simhub software where I run all my amps and such I asked a few days back he recommended and uses this exact device.

 
Awesome Thank you,now I just got to see if I can find one that'll ship down to Aus
Yes I live in Ukraine so searched a few hrs for something similar
I purchased a creative sound blaster X3
But 5x more expensive it might not be within your budget
 
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Race sim studio. wanna put the silent block there.what u think?but I cant.if u see the other picture before.any suggestion.ty a lot

for tweeney. The clamps were included when I bought my P1 rig back in 2018
 

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Race sim studio. wanna put the silent block there.what u think?but I cant.if u see the other picture before.any suggestion.ty a lot

for tweeney. The clamps were included when I bought my P1 rig back in 2018
Hi,
Yes that won’t work each side of the pedal tray is locked down 3x with the clamp handles,

what you are planning on adding 1 large LFE ?
 
Race sim studio. wanna put the silent block there.what u think?but I cant.if u see the other picture before.any suggestion.ty a lot

for tweeney. The clamps were included when I bought my P1 rig back in 2018
Honestly I have 0 clue why people do these types of builds

I use 3x NX1000D and 6x LFE Mini
It’s by far way overkill unless you live on your own,

I have not once run them no way bear 100% it’s way too powerful + the noise and banging

1 Large LFE is crazy tbh I wouldn’t even dream of it specially under your pedals the vibrations will make your feet bounce off the pedals it won’t be enjoyable

have you experienced this stuff before ?
 
Race sim studio. wanna put the silent block there.what u think?but I cant.if u see the other picture before.any suggestion.ty a lot

for tweeney. The clamps were included when I bought my P1 rig back in 2018
1500w LFE wow that’s the same power as all my 6x LFE minis lol You’ll turn it on then turn your amp down to like 7% volume

give me 20 minutes I’ll design a bracket for you to mount and use
 
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Race sim studio. wanna put the silent block there.what u think?but I cant.if u see the other picture before.any suggestion.ty a lot

for tweeney. The clamps were included when I bought my P1 rig back in 2018
So basically here I created the rig you have a mockup based on the pics you shown earlier yes,
like so
1599638471497.png


The best way to mount your LFE in the centre would be like this I went on the buttkicker website and took the mounting template its roughly 90x114mm anyways

you need this list
2x 400MM 40X80 Extrusion
8x corner brackets

Here is the extrusion
1599638599175.png


here is the 8x corner brackets
1599638630509.png


mounting it this way outwards of your pedals will cause some dampening the longer the better I designed it 2x 400mm but you would be better with 2x 500mm if you have the space like I say the longer the lengths here the more isolation and dampening you will get its not touching anything close to your rig more length will cause more vibrations will slightly flex more up and down,

anyways I hope this helps but this for me personally is the best design to mount 1 large LFE onto your rig currently.

1599638840111.png

1599638865765.png
 
ty a lot race sim studio.Im receiving the 2 LFE in some days.my plan is to attach one directly under my OMP bucket seat and as u say the other one is too much , I will send it back. I dont think im gonna build this bracket, I dont know how to do it anyway. My amp is gonna be the berhinger NX3000D. it would be enough to run the LFE and 4 mini LFE in the corners?ty a lot for your design
 
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ty a lot race sim studio.Im receiving the 2 LFE in some days.my plan is to attach one directly under my OMP bucket seat and as u say the other one is too much , I will send it back. I dont think im gonna build this bracket, I dont know how to do it anyway. My amp is gonna be the berhinger NX3000D. it would be enough to run the LFE and 4 mini LFE in the corners?ty a lot for your design
Everyone has gone completely crazy NX3000D is just pure overkil unless you have loads of experience with this stuff yes MR Latte uses these but the guy years and years of experience with trial and error,

there is simply 0 reason to buy a LFE a large one or a NX3000D its just a waste of money completely unless you live on your own in a field maybe and you use headphones and your feet are made of rubber,

I was quite sensible with mine stuck by my guns I saw everyone buying these 3000D amps and I could have bought the same the difference wasnt that big maybe another 150$ on my complete 3 amp setup which is not the end of the world,

Buttkicker in general are high end tactile for professional musicians,

I am running 3x NX1000D and 6X LFE Mini in over 20 months I have not once used 100% on any amp,
the most enjoyment I get from my rig is about 60-70% this is by far enough to get great tactile feedback that is very enjoyable and not shake your house to pieces,

you will still get really good feedback with the large LFE but there twice more expensive than the mini ones,

4x LFE Mini and 2x NX1000D is the perfect setup running chassis mode so you are replicating all 4 corners of your car LF-RF-LR-RR, youve spent twice more money and getting way way less feedback
just going to shake your rig to pieces for nothing at all.
 
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ty a lot. im gonna try when they arrive.luckily i have 30 days to give them back.just will cost me the return package.if im not happy with that i will follow your advice. i will let u know.thxs again to take your time for let me undertsand it.its my first experience with buttkicker
Anyway do u have any suggestion on an Amp that can run one LFE under the seat and 4 mini on the corners?.im 99% sure im gonna keep it one LFE under the seat but gonna give back the nx3000D if is not suitable to run the other 4 mini LFE
 
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ty a lot. im gonna try when they arrive.luckily i have 30 days to give them back.just will cost me the return package.if im not happy with that i will follow your advice. i will let u know.thxs again to take your time for let me undertsand it.its my first experience with buttkicker
Anyway do u have any suggestion on an Amp that can run one LFE under the seat and 4 mini on the corners?.im 99% sure im gonna keep it one LFE under the seat but gonna give back the nx3000D if is not suitable to run the other 4 mini LFE
the 3000d is suitable for a large LFE buttkicker its just way overkil I mean dont listen to me lol read down this thread and see what the guys are doing its all personal taste and preference this stuff there is really no right or wrong way,

but the best experience is 4 or more tactile devices to run chassis mode each corner as a wheel,

you spent crazy money and your not getting these experience at all,


its best to start small then develop a understanding and grow into something larger if required,

my NX1000D is perfect to run 2x LFE Mini tactile but at say 65-70% I usually run so im only utilizing so much of what I am running and the experience is plenty I have it balanced with my steering wheel so its all kinda one unit and feedback

for me if I had the same money to invest as you did you should have bought 4x LFE Mini and 2x NX1000D amps to run a full correct 4 corner chassis mode,
I wouldnt even open the LFE send them both back and buy 4x mini ones this is what I would do personally but like I say "dont listen to me" these guys just as experienced but its OTT Overkil

1 large 1500W LFE under the middle of your seat even placing 2x Mini 1 each side of your seat make 0 difference that monster will kill everything else the vibrations you get from the small ones will be washed away makes 0 sense.
 
"1 large 1500W LFE under the middle of your seat even placing 2x Mini 1 each side of your seat make 0 difference that monster will kill everything else the vibrations you get from the small ones will be washed away makes 0 sense."

This is definetely something to consider.any Buttkicker LFE owner has something to say to prove it different?ty,any input much apprdeciated
 
Well, I have 1 big LFE under the seat. I THINK I can agree it washes out smaller transducers, but only if they are set to the same effect. Now, I am still very new to the transducer world, so haven't tried or experienced chassis mode, so dont wanne sound like a smartass.

But it really is personal preference. I did quite some driving for fun in Raceroom on the Nordschleife, and the part where you go full speed trough a dip (don't know the name of the turn so don't hate me on that) you pull a lot of force on the wheel. Especially with the DD2 I got. It feels awesome. Bit of a long story. I missed the sensation of the bumps and the underside of the car actually hitting the tarmac. Now motion was too expensive in my opinion. So that is why I went with the big BK LFE under the seat only for that sensation, the other effect where no priority in my book.

It is mostly set for thing like (depending on game): Road vibration, Bumps and Kerbs, Road impact and engine vibration (Low rpm vibration ). Now I can tell you that feels awesome! Yes I do believe it overpowers mini lfe's if I would have them on the seat as well. But I would set the mini lfe's to a different effect like: Higher rpm engine sound, wheel slip, wheel lock etc. I have 1 mini LFE is under the pedal tray which is set for the same effect as the big. Why? Because for me this 2 way front/rear setup is what it does best. If I would have more I would do chassis for the wheel effects and the big LFE for the stronger effects.

I think a BK advance under the seat already does the job though, and a big LFE under the pedal tray is also in my opinion overkill. So I tried wheel slip etc on the mini lfe but I dont like the effects over the road vibration, road impact etc effects. Maybe it's because I haven't got chassis mode, that it doesn't cut it for me. Maybe some day.

So I wouldn't be so sure to say a larger transducer under the seat is overkill or redundant if you also want to run smaller transducers. In my opinion if you want the full effect you have to have both. If only you could try what I mean. Running over kerbs in AMS2 feels like you really literally run over kerbs etc. That LFE is powerfull as hell. Driving away in low rpm makes the whole seat move.. you get the idea. It's a poor man's motion (just kidding)
 
Hi guys!
I've read some pages ago people talking about failing problems with the dayton audio DAEX32EP-4, and now was my turn.

I was using two exciters with the Nobsound NS-01G Pro at 75% of volume in SimHub and sudden they started to rattle like a snake.
I thought it was my rig and isolated everything that I could, but it didn't solve the problem.
A couple of days later it just stop working.
I took it out and saw those cracks and if I press the exciter, it start to work again but rattling as hell (of course).
I am not sure if I covered all this thread to get the answer before asking but, is this normal? Did I do something wrong or I was just "lucky" as others here in this thread?

Those pictures are from the same unit, I didn't take the other from the rig yet, had just discovered those cracks.
 

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Hi guys!
I've read some pages ago people talking about failing problems with the dayton audio DAEX32EP-4, and now was my turn.

I was using two exciters with the Nobsound NS-01G Pro at 75% of volume in SimHub and sudden they started to rattle like a snake.
I thought it was my rig and isolated everything that I could, but it didn't solve the problem.
A couple of days later it just stop working.
I took it out and saw those cracks and if I press the exciter, it start to work again but rattling as hell (of course).
I am not sure if I covered all this thread to get the answer before asking but, is this normal? Did I do something wrong or I was just "lucky" as others here in this thread?

Those pictures are from the same unit, I didn't take the other from the rig yet, had just discovered those cracks.
One of mine is rattling a lot too. I've not gone above 50% in either line level output or amp, so I have assumed it was just my cables rattling since they aren't secured yet. It might well be the exciter then... Still, felt nice and could not hear any rattle when in VR ;)
 
One of mine is rattling a lot too. I've not gone above 50% in either line level output or amp, so I have assumed it was just my cables rattling since they aren't secured yet. It might well be the exciter then... Still, felt nice and could not hear any rattle when in VR ;)

Yeah I couldn't hear anything when in VR also, but then all of sudden I couldn't feel anything anymore and I realised they stopped working... Oh well... I'll return them to Parts Express. I sent an e-mail to Dayton Audio but didn't hear anything from them.
I was going to that 2x or 4x DAEX32EP-4 + 2x cheap 100w bass shakers route, but I guess I'll just get those cheap 100w bass shakers to a couple of effects and call it done.
My experience with DAEX32EP-4 wasn't pleasant.
 
I am not sure if I covered all this thread to get the answer before asking but, is this normal? Did I do something wrong or I was just "lucky" as others here in this thread?

Those pictures are from the same unit, I didn't take the other from the rig yet, had just discovered those cracks.

I'm curious as well. How did you attach them? The protective film is still on, so I guess you haven't sticked it to a flat surface then?
 

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