Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

Hello evrybody.I need some help. I want to add 2 buttkicker LFE

www.thomann.de

Fischer Amps Buttkicker LFE
Bass Shaker The new bass shaker for adding an exciting element to drum thones, stage platforms and dance floors. Via a new functional principle, an impressive amount of intensity and power can be achieved. Such a direct response is not usually...
www.thomann.de
www.thomann.de

to my P1 Rig from Simlab. is this amplifier good to run both of them ?

www.thomann.de

the t.amp E-1500
Stereo Power Amplifier Power: 2 x 1430 W at 4 ohm, 2 x 950 W at 8 ohm (@1kHz, THD
www.thomann.de
www.thomann.de

Can u tell me please which cables I have to buy. I use a soundcard Sounblaster Z

https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-z

in which I connect my audio speaker system with optical audio cable

ty a lot
The amp you're looking at seems powerful enough. However, for a similar price a Behringer NX3000D is usually recommended as it has built in DSP. With either amp, you're looking at a 3.5mm jack to two male XLR like THIS. If you use the Behringer, you'll also need similar to THIS to connect the LFE's (you can cut the cable in half and connect the "open" ends to the LFE's).

Whilst I've got the link to hand. A lot of people upgrade the Behringer fans to a quieter model, HERE is the one I used.

You'll also have to consider isolation. There's plenty of info "buried" in this thread or shout up if you need a hand. I hope that's of help.
 
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Hello,

Upgrading my shakers from Daytons to Earthquake MBQ-1's on 4 corners and need to get another amp. Any opinions on this amp by Art https://artproaudio.com/product/sla-4-4x140w-power-amplifier/ ? Looking for simple and uncomplicated. Using simhub and will repurpose the Daytons for engine vibrations, etc.

Thanks for any help!
Can you confirm the price on the amp you're looking at? I had a quickly look online, it seemed really expensive but I'm not 100% the exact model was coming up in the search results.

You may have read in this thread that better results are generally achieved by moving away from the 4 corner chassis setup and to have the shakers close to different body regions. This is something that you might consider reading through on here. Also, the earthquake shakers aren't particularly well rated on here, but I don't have any personal experience with them.
 
ty brutal deluxe. I saw this as u said


but

Power (4 Ohms) per Channel900 W

meanwhile the buttkiker LFE max power is 1500 W and T amp 1500, max power is 1430 W 4ohms per channel
the beringer 200euros cheaper. so what your final take on this?thxs a lot for the help

and about isolation I have 4 of these

https://sim-lab.eu/shop/product/rubber-feet-set-633?page=3#attr=

mounted under my P1 rig.

Someone told me I should mount the 2 LFE in the center of the Rig and not on the side of the bucket seat and the other one on the side of the pedals.can u advise me here too please

and if I need other isolation kit to put wherever. i dont know.ty
 
ty brutal deluxe. I saw this as u said


but

Power (4 Ohms) per Channel900 W

meanwhile the buttkiker LFE max power is 1500 W and T amp 1500, max power is 1430 W 4ohms per channel
the beringer 200euros cheaper. so what your final take on this?thxs a lot for the help

and about isolation I have 4 of these

https://sim-lab.eu/shop/product/rubber-feet-set-633?page=3#attr=

mounted under my P1 rig.

Someone told me I should mount the 2 LFE in the center of the Rig and not on the side of the bucket seat and the other one on the side of the pedals.can u advise me here too please

and if I need other isolation kit to put wherever. i dont know.ty

I can also vouch for the quality of the Behringer NX3000D amp driving a pair of BK LFE transducers. It’s an excellent choice.

Regarding isolation. You should probably think about overall isolation of the rig from the floor and isolation of the transducers within the rig as two separate issues to solve. Aside from mounting the P1-X on eight rubber casters, I haven’t done anything to isolate the rig from the floor and have no issues at all. But then, I don’t need to worry about disturbing anyone else. On the latter issue, you’ll generally want to situate the transducers so they deliver maximum energy to some part of your body and are isolated as much as possible from your rigid rig, which will tend to conduct that energy elsewhere, muddle output from multiple transducers, and maybe over time rattle other things loose. I don’t know who suggested mounting to the center of the rig and not to the seat, but that’s pretty much the opposite of the consensus on this thread, which would tend towards mounting directly to the seat, to the seat rails, or to a plate attached to the seat and isolatIng that seat/transducer system from the rest of the rig. You’ll find some similar suggestions in this thread for ideas about doing the same in the pedal area, but I think most would agree that the greatest benefit comes initially from focusing on the seat.
 
Ty ScreaminBejesus for your exaustive explanation
Sorry guys do I need one of this for each butkicker?ty

At the amp end of the connection, you need a speakon connector, like the one shown. At the BK-LFE end you need either bare wire or you can add banana plugs if you want a cleaner connection. If you have two transducers, you could order a cable like the one shown (twice as long as you need for each) and cut it in half.
 
I have the GT1-EVO from Simlab. I hooked up a LFE and a mini LFE to the behringer 3000D amp. Although it's rated 900W at 4ohm now, it's plenty of power for the big LFE.

I also installed a noctua fan in the amp. The standard fan, the amp comes with, is extremely loud (in my opinion).

I installed the mini LFE to the pedal tray directly with no isolation, I can imagine with the big LFE on the pedal tray you would need some more isolation. Those things are freaking powerful. I experimented with the big LFE on the seat part, but ended up with placing the complete seat profiles (the 2x 80x40 profiles in my case) on 40mm rubbers, M8 threaded hole on 1 side and threaded rod on the other, had to cut down the thread length so it would fit on the profiles. It's hard to explain and don't have a pic on hand. But you attach the seat profiles, to where the seat slider mount to, normally with the corner brackets. Those rubbers are between the corner brackets and the base frame now, that is all. The LFE is attached to a vesa plate that Simlab also uses for several monitor mounts. The vesa plate and the LFE is attached to a piece of 80x40 profile which I cut to the length so it fits between the left and right seat profile just under the seat. Very sturdy this way.

I can tell you that it works great. And there are so many ways to attach them, but for me this worked great since I couldn't bolt it directly to my Sparco R100
 
I got an older picture below. Yes the seat moves a bit when braking because of the vibration dampers, but nothing extreme. And the LFE is now between the left and right profiles in stead of below it. It was like 6mm from the floor this way haha.


RIG.PNG
 
I got an older picture below. Yes the seat moves a bit when braking because of the vibration dampers, but nothing extreme. And the LFE is now between the left and right profiles in stead of below it. It was like 6mm from the floor this way haha.


View attachment 404416
I never understood this centre one,
I always run the chassis mode config,
Like my pedals have like this currently best sensations I get from them,

C9DB240A-0A84-42D2-91EB-C0E23D2C4813.jpeg
 
Well honestly, I didn't want to dive in and go full out on buttkickers just yet, those things cost a pretty penny here. I started now with 1 in the front and 1 in the back. I do believe a few more are better because then not all the signals and effects go over only 2 transducers. But for the effects I use, these 2 are doing very very well. I originally wanted 2 LFE for the seat and 2 mini LFE for the pedals, so double from what I got now. But it would cost me another 700 euro's. Maybe someday..
 
Well honestly, I didn't want to dive in and go full out on buttkickers just yet, those things cost a pretty penny here. I started now with 1 in the front and 1 in the back. I do believe a few more are better because then not all the signals and effects go over only 2 transducers. But for the effects I use, these 2 are doing very very well. I originally wanted 2 LFE for the seat and 2 mini LFE for the pedals, so double from what I got now. But it would cost me another 700 euro's. Maybe someday..
Yeah I know its expensive this stuff I bought 3x NX1000D + 6x LFE Mini but have a lot of experience with this stuff over almost a decade in the past used the gamer2 stuff which is great having 1 at the centre but the immersion is nothing like having 1 each corner of your rig + seat which now admitting my ignorance I made a mistake but simple to fix only take 20 minutes but was a experiment like all this stuff usually is,

I had a jetseat which was nice on my playseat felt comfortable the padding but the playseat shape was nonsense anyways but now I have a real sparco fia seat I tried the jetpad / jetseat wasnt really nice so didnt use it took away that bucket seat sensation which makes the seat great,
but had the idea to take it apart and wire it all like this but not really studying it fully and understanding the tactile units been motors its lost loads of sensation on the upper 4 makes more noise than feedback, but I have 2x upper cushions and another sparco cushion on its way in the post so the upper 4 ill place there but currently the leg ones where I cut the holes works sensational so was a good experiment and nothing lost everything gained through knowledge,


but the Ultimate tactile setup from my own experience has to be the 4 channel 4 corner chassis mode the sensations are night and day over 1 at the rear or the front like when you lock up into a corner the RF for example you can feel that godliness where has the single unit be 1 sensation directed to the entire front its way less than half the experience,
but like I say its expensive to keep adding things but keep pushing for that end goal of full chassis!
 
Those transducers in the seat do look good! Or maybe I should say it's awesome you don't see them. Hopefully the effect will get where you want it to be. I will experiment sometime soon with placing the mini LFE in any corner of the rig to see if this will give the desired effect strength. as other told me as well, 4 mini LFE or BK Advance in the corners combined with the large LFE under the seat is the real **** haha
 
I got an older picture below. Yes the seat moves a bit when braking because of the vibration dampers, but nothing extreme. And the LFE is now between the left and right profiles in stead of below it. It was like 6mm from the floor this way haha.


View attachment 404416
That looks like a reasonable approach. The principles you are following are sound. I would be worried about some lateral instability. In my case, I put two rows of isolators under each rail sandwiches between a somewhat wider set of aluminum plates.
 
any ideas on how can I isolate the pedal tray with the silent blocks.the problem is that if I put the silent block between the main Rig and the pedal tray, I have no points to connect the rig and pedal tray back.I need some engineering expertise.ty in advance
 

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any ideas on how can I isolate the pedal tray with the silent blocks.the problem is that if I put the silent block between the main Rig and the pedal tray, I have no points to connect the rig and pedal tray back.I need some engineering expertise.ty in advance
Can you post some pics of the parts your trying to connect ?
 
Hey guys,

Long time lurker first time poster,I have started to gather all the parts needed for tactile
just want to make sure I have everything I need.

8x dayton exciters
2x Douk m4 amps
1x NX3000D
2x dayton bass shakers (got open box deal 2 for $40 so couldn't pass on it)
1x Large LFE
1X Dual XLR (M) to TRS 3.5
1X Speakon to banana plugs
speaker wire 14 AWG
crimp bits and crimp tool
6X RCA to 3.5

my onboard audio is 7.1 channel
my headset and mic run through an audio interface so onboard sound card is free

All of this will be going onto a Trak racer TR80

Couple of questions I have is what extra sound card will I need?
plan is to add another large LFE down the road (with another cable for it)

and to run the dayton bass shakers for shifter and handbrake off single channel.
what cheap amp would work for the 2 bass shakers for single channel?

Thanks guys! Amazing amount of info here,that I hope one day I can contribute to
Once I understand all of it that is haha.
 
Can I ask where you can get the handle attachments for the bolts (the handles circled in the pic)? Been looking for something like this and can't for the life of me find anything.
IMG-20200908-WA0003.jpg
 

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