Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[SyCoREAPER]

the deadzone in the middle is something i got used to i guess (if you dont know what your missing )

The deadzone kills me. You get used to it like you said but it takes an element of reality out. I have yet to figure out how to recover on spin outs. I either under or over compensate as a result

That's looks all correct for a G29, but some G920 wheels seem to have a way smaller deadzone than the G29, although they are basically identical wheels.

I wish I didn't read that lol I returned my 920 at after buying it for the 29 for the extra buttons. "way smaller deadzone" would have been more useful.

The only way I'll stop kicking myself in the nuts is you saying "some", so I'll tell myself it was a lotto and live with myself..

 

[RasmusP]

wish I didn't read that lol I returned my 920 at after buying it for the 29 for the extra buttons. "way smaller deadzone" would have been more useful.

The only way I'll stop kicking myself in the nuts is you saying "some", so I'll tell myself it was a lotto and live with myself..

Don't worry, it's the same hardware, same feeling!
It's basically just a higher internal gain. So if you set the minimum force in AC to 8% or simply the gain to 108%, they are identical

But since you can't dial down the internal gain of the G920, you can't use the LUT for the G25/27/29 wheels.

 

[pepeBarto]

Hi
Which Custom Shaders Patch are you using?
The new soft lock option got added with version 0.2.0.

Hi!!

I upgraded to the version 0.2.2 and now appears all.

Thanks for all RasmusP

 

[Ogames77x]

Hello RasmusP, thank you very much for your work.

I got the g29 a few days and I am happy with your settings, but I have a problem. I don’t know if it is normal or not.

When I press the brakes 100%, the wheel vibrates annoyingly even at low speeds. This happened to me when I used RealNew80LUT with the same settings Recommended.

I tried using the G920_100gain_LUT and for some reason the vibration became very light and very acceptable, but I miss the heaviness of the wheel found in the RealNew80LUT at high speeds, knowing that the gain is set to 80% with the same settings Recommended in all cases.

Also, I cannot find all the FFB Tweaks settings that are in your screenshot.

Thank you again for making my experience with g29 better and making a nice work for players.

I'm sorry for my English, it's not my main language

 

[RasmusP]

Hello RasmusP, thank you very much for your work.

I got the g29 a few days and I am happy with your settings, but I have a problem. I don’t know if it is normal or not.

When I press the brakes 100%, the wheel vibrates annoyingly even at low speeds. This happened to me when I used RealNew80LUT with the same settings Recommended.

I tried using the G920_100gain_LUT and for some reason the vibration became very light and very acceptable, but I miss the heaviness of the wheel found in the RealNew80LUT at high speeds, knowing that the gain is set to 80% with the same settings Recommended in all cases.

Also, I cannot find all the FFB Tweaks settings that are in your screenshot.

Thank you again for making my experience with g29 better and making a nice work for players.

I'm sorry for my English, it's not my main language

Hi, thanks for the feedback
I'm currently not at home so my phone-reply will be a bit shorter than usual, sorry.
Quick answer:
Put the "Slip" and "ABS" FFB Effects Sliders to 0%.
Slip vibrates when you get sliding/slipping wheels.
ABS vibrates if the car has ABS and you're triggering it.

Sadly, there are also cars with very strong inbuilt ABS rumble. Putting the ffb effects to zero won't help with these cars.

Also:
If you get ffb clipping, the ffb will go flat at maximum strength. So you won't feel little vibrations anymore.
The Real80LUT doesn't clip as much (and probably feels a bit weaker in slower corners), so you get more vibrations at the top end of the ffb.

However, the G920 LUT has a way weaker "anti-deadzone" ffb curve, so if you're driving straight and then brake 100%, the vibrations will simply vanish in the deadzone of the G29, instead of vibrating.
In other words: with your G29, using the G920 LUT won't remove your deadzone in the center.
The vibrations are there, but your G29 doesn't recognise them.

Hope that helps?

Btw, your English text was perfect! I'm not a native speaker either (German), so no reason to be sorry for your English!

 

[Ogames77x]

Hi, thanks for the feedback
I'm currently not at home so my phone-reply will be a bit shorter than usual, sorry.
Quick answer:
Put the "Slip" and "ABS" FFB Effects Sliders to 0%.
Slip vibrates when you get sliding/slipping wheels.
ABS vibrates if the car has ABS and you're triggering it.

Sadly, there are also cars with very strong inbuilt ABS rumble. Putting the ffb effects to zero won't help with these cars.

Also:
If you get ffb clipping, the ffb will go flat at maximum strength. So you won't feel little vibrations anymore.
The Real80LUT doesn't clip as much (and probably feels a bit weaker in slower corners), so you get more vibrations at the top end of the ffb.

However, the G920 LUT has a way weaker "anti-deadzone" ffb curve, so if you're driving straight and then brake 100%, the vibrations will simply vanish in the deadzone of the G29, instead of vibrating.
In other words: with your G29, using the G920 LUT won't remove your deadzone in the center.
The vibrations are there, but your G29 doesn't recognise them.

Hope that helps?

Btw, your English text was perfect! I'm not a native speaker either (German), so no reason to be sorry for your English!

Thank you very much.

I applied the following settings after reading your explanation and everything is nice for me.
There is a very small vibration and I like that.

 

[RasmusP]

Looks perfect
Enjoy driving

 

[Morekxp]

Hello,

I am now driving with the G27 again. I'm driving in ACC and have heard that you can also use the RasmusP Luts 2.0 for ACC.

Can someone please tell me which in-game settings are currently recommended in ACC and where do I have to edit what? Thank you

 

[RasmusP]

Hello,

I am now driving with the G27 again. I'm driving in ACC and have heard that you can also use the RasmusP Luts 2.0 for ACC.

Can someone please tell me which in-game settings are currently recommended in ACC and where do I have to edit what? Thank you

Hi

DagZede approached me a few years ago, asking if I'd be fine with him creating a Steam-Guide for my LUTs in ACC.
I 100% was very fine with that so here's the link:

Steam Community :: Guide :: Logitech G29/G27/DGFT Force Feedback LUT Settings

After the v1.0.2 update , force feedback post-processing is now available for Assetto Corsa Competizione, just like in the OG Assetto Corsa. Making it possible...

steamcommunity.com

It's a bit out-of-date, since I reworked all LUTs, but it is very complete.
I'll just give you the short info here (no file editing needed! Just put drag 2 files from my zip-package into a folder and set the G27 & ACC like in my screenshots )

Put whatever LUT + "ff_post_process.ini" you want to try into this folder:
(I recommend the RealNew80LUT!! It's mathematically identical to the old "NoClipButStronger_Recommended" LUT, but makes more sense)

C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config

You can just mark + copy that file path and paste it into your explorer address-bar like this.
Windows has some %....% shortcuts. This will get you into the acc config folder of the currently active user.

Logitech Settings:

ACC Settings, I'd recommend with the "RealNew80LUT":

 

[RasmusP]

@Eunosroadster69

try this LUT, which is a bit weaker around the center, hopefully fixing the shaking
I sadly have no possibility to test the G27 with a bigger wheel, so it's all just guessing around in Excel.
If it's still shaking too much, report back and I'll adjust it until it works as you want it.

SuperStrongLUTV2.zip

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Visualization of the first adjustment:

 

[SyCoREAPER]

@RasmusP
You are one of the last true devs that go out of their way like this.

The community is infinitely grateful for your work and dedication.

 

[Morekxp]

Thank you very much for your hard work!!!

Hi

DagZede approached me a few years ago, asking if I'd be fine with him creating a Steam-Guide for my LUTs in ACC.
I 100% was very fine with that so here's the link:

Steam Community :: Guide :: Logitech G29/G27/DGFT Force Feedback LUT Settings

After the v1.0.2 update , force feedback post-processing is now available for Assetto Corsa Competizione, just like in the OG Assetto Corsa. Making it possible...

steamcommunity.com

It's a bit out-of-date, since I reworked all LUTs, but it is very complete.
I'll just give you the short info here (no file editing needed! Just put drag 2 files from my zip-package into a folder and set the G27 & ACC like in my screenshots )

Put whatever LUT + "ff_post_process.ini" you want to try into this folder:
(I recommend the RealNew80LUT!! It's mathematically identical to the old "NoClipButStronger_Recommended" LUT, but makes more sense)

C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config

You can just mark + copy that file path and paste it into your explorer address-bar like this.
Windows has some %....% shortcuts. This will get you into the acc config folder of the currently active user.

View attachment 742622


Logitech Settings:
View attachment 742623

ACC Settings, I'd recommend with the "RealNew80LUT":
View attachment 742624

 

[noaccountluxg27]

Hi

DagZede approached me a few years ago, asking if I'd be fine with him creating a Steam-Guide for my LUTs in ACC.
I 100% was very fine with that so here's the link:

Steam Community :: Guide :: Logitech G29/G27/DGFT Force Feedback LUT Settings

After the v1.0.2 update , force feedback post-processing is now available for Assetto Corsa Competizione, just like in the OG Assetto Corsa. Making it possible...

steamcommunity.com

It's a bit out-of-date, since I reworked all LUTs, but it is very complete.
I'll just give you the short info here (no file editing needed! Just put drag 2 files from my zip-package into a folder and set the G27 & ACC like in my screenshots )

Put whatever LUT + "ff_post_process.ini" you want to try into this folder:
(I recommend the RealNew80LUT!! It's mathematically identical to the old "NoClipButStronger_Recommended" LUT, but makes more sense)

C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config

You can just mark + copy that file path and paste it into your explorer address-bar like this.
Windows has some %....% shortcuts. This will get you into the acc config folder of the currently active user.

View attachment 742622


Logitech Settings:
View attachment 742623

ACC Settings, I'd recommend with the "RealNew80LUT":
View attachment 742624

I have a couple of additional questions/ clarification requests if you don't mind.
as per the outdated steam guide for the older "Old_50gain_NoClipButStrongerRecommendedLUT" it states to set Spring Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength to 0% for the G27 Logitech Settings, but for the new "RealNew80LUT_New_Recommendation" Spring Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength should be set to 100%. why is that?

You also mention "no file editing needed!" does that mean that when using the "RealNew80LUT_New_Recommendation" I should not change any values in the "controls.jason" file?
because on the outdated steam guide it states to change some settings you can't change in game such as "damperGain": 0, & "antaniGain": 0, which by default are set to "damperGain": 1, & "antaniGain": 1,

If I wanted to try out the "Old_50gain_NoClipButStrongerRecommendedLUT" would I set the Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength to 0% & edit "damperGain": 0, & "antaniGain": 0, & edit controls.jason values to "damperGain": 0, & "antaniGain": 0.
And if using "RealNew80LUT_New_Recommendation" I would set the Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength to 100% and not edit controls.json at all?

 

[RasmusP]

Hi

it states to set Spring Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength to 0% for the G27 Logitech Settings, but for the new "RealNew80LUT_New_Recommendation" Spring Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength should be set to 100%. why is that?

Spring FFB channel isn't used by any game I know of. It only exist because Microsoft found it might be useful at some point, but it never was.
But manufacturers have to implement it, since it's part of the "DirectInput" package.
So Spring can be ignored.

Damper on the other hand is a friction effect that is used for some stuff.
In AC and ACC, it's used for the resistance, when you're standing still.
Because at 0 speed, all physics calculations would be divided by 0, which would break everything.
So below about 3 km/h, the ffb shuts off and the damper channel gets activated.

With my Fanatec CSW 2.5, that damper resistance at 0 speed feels great. But with Logitech wheels, it feels like sand in the ffb motor, absolutely awful.
So you can leave it at 100%, set it to 0%, it doesn't really matter, it's really just the resistance when standing still.
As soon as you start driving, the damper channel shuts off.

You also mention "no file editing needed!" does that mean that when using the "RealNew80LUT_New_Recommendation" I should not change any values in the "controls.jason" file?
because on the outdated steam guide it states to change some settings you can't change in game such as "damperGain": 0, & "antaniGain": 0, which by default are set to "damperGain": 1, & "antaniGain": 1,

antaniGain: still no idea what that is, just leave it be.

The rest:
- "minDamper" is "Damper" in the in-game settings. It's a constant damper effect, ALSO WHILE DRIVING.
Should be 0 for Logitech wheels. But just set it to 0% in-game, which is the default.
I personally have it at 20% with my Moza R12 now.

- "damperGain" is the standing still resistance effect. You can either set it to 0 in the file or set the slider in the G27 software to 0. It's in the guide, because the G29, G920, G923 don't have the 3 ffb sliders, that the G25 and G27 have.

- "dynamicDamping" is the in-game setting. It's the "gyro effect", which is some stabilizing damping effect when driving in a straight line to help against wheel shaking.

If I wanted to try out the "Old_50gain_NoClipButStrongerRecommendedLUT" would I set the Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength to 0% & edit "damperGain": 0, & "antaniGain": 0, & edit controls.jason values to "damperGain": 0, & "antaniGain": 0.
And if using "RealNew80LUT_New_Recommendation" I would set the Effect Strength & Damper Effect Strength to 100% and not edit controls.json at all?

For DRIVING, this all doesn't matter. It's only for when standing still or rolling at extremely slow speeds, like 3 km/h.
Just leave "antaniGain" as it is, since no one knows, what that is.
If you have a G25 or G27, just put the damper slider in the wheel software to 0% and you won't have to touch the file.
If you have a G29/920/923, set "damperGain" to 0.

Hope that helps?

 

[noaccountluxg27]

Hi

Spring FFB channel isn't used by any game I know of. It only exist because Microsoft found it might be useful at some point, but it never was.
But manufacturers have to implement it, since it's part of the "DirectInput" package.
So Spring can be ignored.

Damper on the other hand is a friction effect that is used for some stuff.
In AC and ACC, it's used for the resistance, when you're standing still.
Because at 0 speed, all physics calculations would be divided by 0, which would break everything.
So below about 3 km/h, the ffb shuts off and the damper channel gets activated.

With my Fanatec CSW 2.5, that damper resistance at 0 speed feels great. But with Logitech wheels, it feels like sand in the ffb motor, absolutely awful.
So you can leave it at 100%, set it to 0%, it doesn't really matter, it's really just the resistance when standing still.
As soon as you start driving, the damper channel shuts off.

antaniGain: still no idea what that is, just leave it be.

The rest:
- "minDamper" is "Damper" in the in-game settings. It's a constant damper effect, ALSO WHILE DRIVING.
Should be 0 for Logitech wheels. But just set it to 0% in-game, which is the default.
I personally have it at 20% with my Moza R12 now.

- "damperGain" is the standing still resistance effect. You can either set it to 0 in the file or set the slider in the G27 software to 0. It's in the guide, because the G29, G920, G923 don't have the 3 ffb sliders, that the G25 and G27 have.

- "dynamicDamping" is the in-game setting. It's the "gyro effect", which is some stabilizing damping effect when driving in a straight line to help against wheel shaking.

For DRIVING, this all doesn't matter. It's only for when standing still or rolling at extremely slow speeds, like 3 km/h.
Just leave "antaniGain" as it is, since no one knows, what that is.
If you have a G25 or G27, just put the damper slider in the wheel software to 0% and you won't have to touch the file.
If you have a G29/920/923, set "damperGain" to 0.

Hope that helps?

Thank you for the explanation, it does help. Now I just need to leave it all alone and enjoy the racing.

 

[noaccountluxg27]

g27 just doesn't cut it for me, got myself a moza r5 from microcenter.

 

[RasmusP]

g27 just doesn't cut it for me, got myself a moza r5 from microcenter.

I just went to the PC to write a reply, but yeah, the G27 seems to be not quick and not powerful enough for you.
The R5 should transform simracing for you

No LUT needed btw, since DD wheels don't have any deadzone. However you can boost the lower ffb a bit to simulate "powersteering".
This needs a higher amount of friction and also needs "Speed dependent damping" though, to stop the wheel from oscillating on straights.
Moza has an in-built LUT editor called "FFB Curve" in their software for that!

I've attached my settings in the next post
They are for the R12, but should work well with the R5 too.

Little clarification: The Logitech wheels aren't belt driven. They have two little motors with little gears, attached to a big gear to have a bit more power.
Since the two motor aren't perfectly in-sync, they need some deadzone.
And the gears have some play in it, which gives you the "awesome" rattling on kerbs.

Belt-driven are Thrustmaster wheels and the Fanatec non-DD wheels.

 

[RasmusP]

AC - Axis:


AC - FFB
(use more gain with the R5! Just raise it until the wheel starts oscillating out of control. Probably around 50-65%)


AC - CSP FFB Tweaks:



Moza:
Yes, very high friction and damping, but with the ffb curve, that's needed to stop the wheel from oscillating.
And I personally love the higher friction/damping to be more precise.


Feel free to use the hands-off-protection. I'm using a custom wheel and don't know the exact inertia, so I had it kicking in a few times while fighting a wobbling car.
The natural inertia should be kept at minimum, always!


Lowering "Details" will sadly also cause more oscillation, because it increases latency, while smoothing.
So instead of lowering the vibrations, I dampened my rig.


Very important: FFB curve. If you move the first two points too high, you'll get wild oscillations. So I screenshot the first point and will list the other points:

Point 1: x=6% ; Y=14% (yep, more than 2x the ffb around the center!)
Point 2: 27 / 41
Point 3: 47 / 60
Point 4: 67 / 77
Point 5: 100 / 100

This will NOT cause any clipping, since 100% ffb output by the sim is still just 100% output to the wheel.
This curve simply boosts the lower part of the ffb.
Powersteering works the other way around and helps more, the higher the steering force becomes.
Pretty much the same result though, I love it

 

[zRicer05z]

FFB settings, I got only these settings, and not the one in the screenshot from the archive. How do I enable these settings? I'm DFGT, what could be the reason why these settings are not available? Thank you for your hard work, the steering wheel feels very different compared to the factory settings!

 

[RasmusP]

FFB settings, I got only these settings, and not the one in the screenshot from the archive. How do I enable these settings? I'm DFGT, what could be the reason why these settings are not available? Thank you for your hard work, the steering wheel feels very different compared to the factory settings!

Hi,
happy to hear, that you're enjoying the settings & LUT!

You need to update your custom shaders patch to get the softlock settings.
I'm not sure which version got them, but I'm using the latest version without issues so far.