Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

[EmaPa88]

Hi RasmusP
First of all, many thanks for your work, i'm using your LUT with my G29 and the ffb feels great.
I've only a question before updating to the newer version you released: Which csp version is recommended? Because i'm using the 0.1.7.9 (that is highlighted as the recommended version on content manager) that doesn't have the settings you show on your screenshot.
Thanks a lot in advance for your reply!
Regards

 

[RasmusP]

Hi RasmusP
First of all, many thanks for your work, i'm using your LUT with my G29 and the ffb feels great.
I've only a question before updating to the newer version you released: Which csp version is recommended? Because i'm using the 0.1.7.9 (that is highlighted as the recommended version on content manager) that doesn't have the settings you show on your screenshot.
Thanks a lot in advance for your reply!
Regards

Hi, thanks for the nice post!
The CSP version doesn't really matter for the ffb.
After getting my hands on the G27 of my nephew a few weeks ago, as you can see in the screenshot, I don't recommend to use any features of the "FFB Tweaks" extension, apart from the new soft lock feature and the range compression assist.
Plus the little "fixes".
These things don't really do anything for 99% of all cars, so they aren't important.

The soft lock is very nice, but it's been fine for years without the soft lock, so it's not really important.

I'm using the latest one from the Patreon page.
0.2.3 preview1, but any other version works too.
I sadly don't know when the softlock got added... It's quite cool to have some kind of end stop when the wheel in the sim stops turning.

But yeah, overall, it's really not important. Disabling the FFB Tweaks extension completely would be fine too

 

[EmaPa88]

Hi, thanks for the nice post!
The CSP version doesn't really matter for the ffb.
After getting my hands on the G27 of my nephew a few weeks ago, as you can see in the screenshot, I don't recommend to use any features of the "FFB Tweaks" extension, apart from the new soft lock feature and the range compression assist.
Plus the little "fixes".
These things don't really do anything for 99% of all cars, so they aren't important.

The soft lock is very nice, but it's been fine for years without the soft lock, so it's not really important.

I'm using the latest one from the Patreon page.
0.2.3 preview1, but any other version works too.
I sadly don't know when the softlock got added... It's quite cool to have some kind of end stop when the wheel in the sim stops turning.

But yeah, overall, it's really not important. Disabling the FFB Tweaks extension completely would be fine too

You're welcome and many many thanks for your reply!
I wanted to know the csp version because you turned off the soft lock on ac settings and instead you used the csp one.
It's time for me to upgrade the csp version.
Thanks a lot again

 

[RasmusP]

You're welcome and many many thanks for your reply!
I wanted to know the csp version because you turned off the soft lock on ac settings and instead you used the csp one.
It's time for me to upgrade the csp version.
Thanks a lot again

The bouncy AC softlock is so awful.. I've never used it.
The new one works pretty well! The wheel simply "brakes" and won't bounce back. It's not a hard end like in a real car, but it works well.

 

[EmaPa88]

The bouncy AC softlock is so awful.. I've never used it.
The new one works pretty well! The wheel simply "brakes" and won't bounce back. It's not a hard end like in a real car, but it works well.

I always used since i started to play with ac, but now i will use the csp with your fantastic lut.
Thanks again a lot!

 

[kaasglenneman]

maybe i am the only one using the ffb tweaks option ''output real steering forces'' put it on 2,3 nm for my dfgt
its like no power steering and a great feel
put the ingame per car ffb to around 4 to 6 % depends on the car ...
works amazing in my opinion
or am i doing stupid things ?

 

[LE_JUICEMEISTER]

Hey RasmusP,

First of all thank you for the continued support and providing these LUTs to the community.

I have just updated to the newest version of the LUT (RealNew80) and it is feeling great. I'm loving the feeling of the g29 with this new LUT, there is much more detail and more force where it should be. However I noticed that you are now recommending the Experimental gyroscopic effect be enabled. Would you mind briefly explaining why it is beneficial to have it turned on for the Logitech g29. And also whether or not the "More physically accurate gyro implementation" from CSP FFB Tweaks would also help with the wheel's FFB.

Thanks again for what you are doing for the community.

 

[RasmusP]

maybe i am the only one using the ffb tweaks option ''output real steering forces'' put it on 2,3 nm for my dfgt
its like no power steering and a great feel
put the ingame per car ffb to around 4 to 6 % depends on the car ...
works amazing in my opinion
or am i doing stupid things ?

Hi,
well, that setting is only recommend for really strong Direct Drive wheelbases above 15 Nm and is very experimental, since not all cars are designed to work well with it. Have a read here:

read more: FFB Tweaks

I've worked with x4fab to add a new feature to the Custom Shaders Patch (as of 0.1.51) and the description is fairly brief so I thought it's worth going into a bit more detail about what this does. Gyro Implementation [ ] Active check to enable Strength 25% adjust effect strength AC has an...

www.racedepartment.com

All real cars output stronger ffb, than the Logitech wheels, so the setting doesn't really work as intended.

Overall, it either works just like the standard gain setting, but way more complicated.
Or you have cars with extra files to simulate their power steering curve, which are probably only a handful of mod cars.

So not stupid, but depending on the cars you're using, dialling in the gain would work just as well.

Are you using one of my LUTs too? Because "output real steering forces" won't give you any curve against the deadzone.

 

[RasmusP]

Hey RasmusP,

First of all thank you for the continued support and providing these LUTs to the community.

I have just updated to the newest version of the LUT (RealNew80) and it is feeling great. I'm loving the feeling of the g29 with this new LUT, there is much more detail and more force where it should be. However I noticed that you are now recommending the Experimental gyroscopic effect be enabled. Would you mind briefly explaining why it is beneficial to have it turned on for the Logitech g29. And also whether or not the "More physically accurate gyro implementation" from CSP FFB Tweaks would also help with the wheel's FFB.

Thanks again for what you are doing for the community.

Oops.. In the text, I actually state to disable it, sorry!
It doesn't really matter though.
The standard gyro is a light force, that tries to reduce oscillations at center position, the faster you go.
It helps a bit with my current Moza R12, so I forgot to switch it off, before taking the screenshots.

The new gyro from CSP works a bit differently. It's a force that simulates the inertia of the spinning front wheels. Like a bike staying upright, while riding it.
It always stays in alignment of the front wheels, like in reality. The old gyro is always in center position, no matter where the front wheels point at.

So in theory, the new gyro is WAY better. But I've found it to be quite a strong force when drifting. So I currently don't use it.

With the G27, the old gyro barely has any effect either though, so I tend to switch it off to keep the ffb as free as possible.

Overall, it doesn't really matter anyway. Test for yourself, if you like no gyro, old gyro or new gyro. There's no right or wrong. With the G27, I honestly don't feel a difference between them anyway.

 

[kaasglenneman]

Hi,
well, that setting is only recommend for really strong Direct Drive wheelbases above 15 Nm and is very experimental, since not all cars are designed to work well with it. Have a read here:

read more: FFB Tweaks

I've worked with x4fab to add a new feature to the Custom Shaders Patch (as of 0.1.51) and the description is fairly brief so I thought it's worth going into a bit more detail about what this does. Gyro Implementation [ ] Active check to enable Strength 25% adjust effect strength AC has an...

www.racedepartment.com

All real cars output stronger ffb, than the Logitech wheels, so the setting doesn't really work as intended.

Overall, it either works just like the standard gain setting, but way more complicated.
Or you have cars with extra files to simulate their power steering curve, which are probably only a handful of mod cars.

So not stupid, but depending on the cars you're using, dialling in the gain would work just as well.

Are you using one of my LUTs too? Because "output real steering forces" won't give you any curve against the deadzone.

Hi,
well, that setting is only recommend for really strong Direct Drive wheelbases above 15 Nm and is very experimental, since not all cars are designed to work well with it. Have a read here:

read more: FFB Tweaks

I've worked with x4fab to add a new feature to the Custom Shaders Patch (as of 0.1.51) and the description is fairly brief so I thought it's worth going into a bit more detail about what this does. Gyro Implementation [ ] Active check to enable Strength 25% adjust effect strength AC has an...

www.racedepartment.com

All real cars output stronger ffb, than the Logitech wheels, so the setting doesn't really work as intended.

Overall, it either works just like the standard gain setting, but way more complicated.
Or you have cars with extra files to simulate their power steering curve, which are probably only a handful of mod cars.

So not stupid, but depending on the cars you're using, dialling in the gain would work just as well.

Are you using one of my LUTs too? Because "output real steering forces" won't give you any curve against the deadzone.

thanks for the reply !
i am going to try your lut setting
the deadzone in the middle is something i got used to i guess
(if you dont know what your missing )

never had any other wheel than the dfgt ... broke 2 bought new .. so
maybe this is going to blow my mind!

thanks

 

[RasmusP]

the deadzone in the middle is something i got used to i guess
(if you dont know what your missing )

Sadly, I knew exactly what was missing from driving my real car a few times a week

i am going to try your lut setting

Make sure to try the DFGT LUT. Gain to 100%, disable the ffb tweaks extension completely.
Rest like in the screenshots of the download page

never had any other wheel than the dfgt ... broke 2 bought new .. so
maybe this is going to blow my mind!

Looking forward to your feedback!
And crossing fingers, that your current DFGT will last a long time!

 

[LE_JUICEMEISTER]

Oops.. In the text, I actually state to disable it, sorry!
It doesn't really matter though.
The standard gyro is a light force, that tries to reduce oscillations at center position, the faster you go.
It helps a bit with my current Moza R12, so I forgot to switch it off, before taking the screenshots.

The new gyro from CSP works a bit differently. It's a force that simulates the inertia of the spinning front wheels. Like a bike staying upright, while riding it.
It always stays in alignment of the front wheels, like in reality. The old gyro is always in center position, no matter where the front wheels point at.

So in theory, the new gyro is WAY better. But I've found it to be quite a strong force when drifting. So I currently don't use it.

With the G27, the old gyro barely has any effect either though, so I tend to switch it off to keep the ffb as free as possible.

Overall, it doesn't really matter anyway. Test for yourself, if you like no gyro, old gyro or new gyro. There's no right or wrong. With the G27, I honestly don't feel a difference between them anyway.

Ah Okay lol thanks for the answer.
Just testing it out now and I think I prefer the feeling of the G29 FFB with all the Gyro settings disabled. It makes the perceived FFB strength greater for me.

Thanks for your help

 

[JmsTV]

Hey I've been using your recommended LUT with 50% gain for a while with my g29 and decided to try the realnew80 LUT with 80% gain and I'm clipping a hell of a lot compared to the previous 50% one.

I was wondering if this is normal to be in the red a lot of the time. I've also tried turning the gain down 50-60% but it feels far too weak for me personally with that gain.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RasmusP]

Hey I've been using your recommended LUT with 50% gain for a while with my g29 and decided to try the realnew80 LUT with 80% gain and I'm clipping a hell of a lot compared to the previous 50% one.

I was wondering if this is normal to be in the red a lot of the time. I've also tried turning the gain down 50-60% but it feels far too weak for me personally with that gain.

Thanks in advance.

So my "trick" with the old recommended LUT "worked", hehe.
To be fair, I didn't know it was a trick that didn't actually work, back then...

The amount of clipping is exactly identical, but now the clipping meter clips the ffb, instead of the wheel driver after the LUT boosted the not-clipping ffb straight into clipping.

In short, the only difference is that you see the clipping now.
Before, it was simply hidden, sorry.

So yeah, totally normal. And clipping isn't necessarily bad. You just don't feel the nuances of the amount of grip. But if the rear loses traction, the ffb will change direction with full strength, so you definitely feel, if the car loses grip.
If you turn down the ffb until it isn't clipping, you won't feel much at all, which is worse than some clipping.

That's sadly the compromise with "weaker" wheelbases.

Hope that helps

 

[JmsTV]

So my "trick" with the old recommended LUT "worked", hehe.
To be fair, I didn't know it was a trick that didn't actually work, back then...

The amount of clipping is exactly identical, but now the clipping meter clips the ffb, instead of the wheel driver after the LUT boosted the not-clipping ffb straight into clipping.

In short, the only difference is that you see the clipping now.
Before, it was simply hidden, sorry.

So yeah, totally normal. And clipping isn't necessarily bad. You just don't feel the nuances of the amount of grip. But if the rear loses traction, the ffb will change direction with full strength, so you definitely feel, if the car loses grip.
If you turn down the ffb until it isn't clipping, you won't feel much at all, which is worse than some clipping.

That's sadly the compromise with "weaker" wheelbases.

Hope that helps

Okay thankyou for clearing that up for me! The clipping is only crazy on certain parts of nords or anything super fast but that's to be expected.

Thanks' for the lut's you have made and provided as well makes AC feel great on my g29

 

[pepeBarto]

Hi!!
Thanks for the LUT configurations, is awesome!! but i can't see one option in FFB Tweaks config in Content Manager:

- Custom soft lock (smoother and less bouncy)​

​

It doesn't appear in my content manager and I don't know how I can get it or if I need it.

Thanks!!

​

 

[RasmusP]

Hi!!
Thanks for the LUT configurations, is awesome!! but i can't see one option in FFB Tweaks config in Content Manager:

- Custom soft lock (smoother and less bouncy)​

​

It doesn't appear in my content manager and I don't know how I can get it or if I need it.

Thanks!!

​

Hi
Which Custom Shaders Patch are you using?
The new soft lock option got added with version 0.2.0.

 

[RasmusP]

@FreshlyFishedBread
I've seen your "review", which is more like a support request.
Since you can't post screenshots etc. in the review section, I tagged you here in the support section.

Can you tell me what wheel do you have?
And maybe post screenshots of all your wheel/steering settings so I can hopefully spot an issue?

The wheel shouldn't shake, so there's definitely a little problem right now. I'm sure we can fix it with some more information and a few posts

 

[FreshlyFishedBread]

g920

 

[RasmusP]

g920

That's looks all correct for a G29, but some G920 wheels seem to have a way smaller deadzone than the G29, although they are basically identical wheels.
Which causes the G920's to shake a lot, when using G29 settings.

Please try the G920 LUT from the folders in the download package.
According to user feedback in this thread, it works a lot better.

If that doesn't feel good, try the DFGT LUT, it's quite similar, but a bit different.

Also try to adjust the gain to your liking, there's no right or wrong as long as you don't go above 110%.

I sadly never got my hands on a G920, so I couldn't optimise the LUT for it myself.

If the G920 and the DFGT LUT both don't feel good, report back if your wheel has a deadzone in the center or if it shakes too much.
I'll create a LUT according to that feedback