You mean 1.786 kg? 17 grams would mean it's out of carbon or paper without a wrapping
33 cm is a lot for the little Logitech though. The leverage lowers the ffb in your hands significantly.
Not saying it's bad or anything though, don't get me wrong! If it's fun, then it's great!
A bit of theory:
The original wheel is about 28 cm.
With around 3 Nm, you get:
(Beware, we need the radius instead of the diameter now)
3 Nm / 0.14 m = 21.4 N at your hands
3 Nm / 0.165 m = 18.2 N at your hands
That's 1 to 0.844 .
So using 33 cm is like setting your ffb from 100% to 84%.
The inertia gets a lot bigger with increased wheel size though, if you're using a round rim and not a formula rim. Even with lighter rims.
For a "flat ring" as a simplified wheel rim, the inertia is:
J = m * r² (mass * radius²)
So let's say we have 0.5 kg for the Logitech rim for the outside ring of the wheel and 0.8 kg for the bigger wheel for the outside ring:
J,orig= 0.5 kg * ((0.28/2) m)² = 98 kg*m²
J,33cm = 0.8 kg * ((0.33/2) m)² = 218 kg*m²
So the wheelbase has to work against more than 2x the inertia to get the wheel to accelerate or stop.
Additionally to the 15% lower ffb strength.
But if you're fine with the ffb strength, then great!
There's no right or wrong here, but I thought I'd give you some physics behind it hehe.
Just don't install it.
FFBClip checks for the ffb signal hitting 100% while driving and then lowers the ffb accordingly.
With the default settings, it lowers most cars to 45-65% gain, when using 100% in the menu.
Now if my LUT counters the deadzone in the center with 100% gain, you will not only get weak ffb when using FFBClip, you also have the deadzone in the center.
But clipping isn't as bad as many people think. You just lose some details like kerbs rumble and varying strength like the compression in Eau Rouge or that faster corners in a GT3 or F1 car have heavier ffb due to the aero increasing the grip.
This varying strength isn't really noticeable with a G25/27/29 though, so it doesn't really matter.
The difference between 2.5 Nm and 3 Nm is not really detectable in your hands.
With a big Direct Drive, going from 12 Nm to 10 Nm is something you feel though.
Anyway:
If the rear starts to lose grip, the ffb will change its direction. So if you're clipping massively, the ffb will change from 100% right to 100% left (or the opposite).
Meaning with clipping, you might feel the start of a slide even better, than without clipping.
With FFBClip, the ffb might only go from 60% right to 40% left.
About the old LUT:
Back then I thought that I could trick AC and only use 50% gain but then set the LUT so that the last line would be something like:
1.00 | 2.00
Meaning if AC outputs 100%, the LUT makes it 200%.
Resulting in the 50% gain from FFBClip with the LUT to be the same as 100% gain without the LUT.
However it doesn't work as I thought back then.
If the game hits 100% ffb, the LUT can boost it to 200% as much as it wants, the wheelbase will only get 100% at maximum.
So after my nephew got a G27, I stole it for a day and created the recalculated "NoClipButStronger" LUT, this time correctly, RealNew80LUT.
With that LUT, the last line is:
1.00 | 1.00
So if the game reaches 100%, the LUT won't change it.
Meaning the ffb bar in the pedals app is correct again. No hidden "boosting".
To get the exact same ffb strength and anti-deadzone as with the NoClipButStronger LUT, the gain needs to be set to 80%.
If you install and use FFBClip, it will reduce the ffb and you'll get the deadzone back.
I hope that explains things? It's quite a bit complicated..
