RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT

Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

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I tested it in AC through content manager and the steering with and without the LUT uploaded felt the same. Really confused now lol
Close ac and content manager and open contrnt manager again.
Sometimes the lut won't be saved...
It resets when you start ac.
Make sure the little checkbox "car-specific controls" is disabled. This interferes with lut loading somehow.
 
Not to beat a dead horse, could I manually write a lut with all zeroes to get no ffb? Would tell me right away if it's taken effect or not
Yes you can!
You don't need 100 lines though, the curve gets interpolated!
So I'd say use this:
0 | 0
0.5 | 0
1 | 0

It will get interpolated to a flat line of 0 ffb.
 
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Yeah that confirms it. I tested with a LUT like that and still had the games stock ffb. Strange. Thanks for all the help. Not sure what else to do. Attached a picture of the config folder for posterity. Ill stop spamming!
Screenshot 2022-07-10 220546.png
 
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I continue the discussion here, I’m the one who had some problem to match the steering angle irl and the steering angle ingame. I can confirm that it is set to 900 both on the Ghub and in AC and in ACC. I don’t know what the problem can be. Tell me if there’s other parameters that can change that angle if there is so.

Thank you ! And if you want some screenshots tell me which :)

Forget that, the “sensibilité” parameter in the Ghub was 100 instead of 50 for some reason.

Thanks again for the incredible work.
 
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I continue the discussion here, I’m the one who had some problem to match the steering angle irl and the steering angle ingame. I can confirm that it is set to 900 both on the Ghub and in AC and in ACC. I don’t know what the problem can be. Tell me if there’s other parameters that can change that angle if there is so.

Thank you ! And if you want some screenshots tell me which :)

Forget that, the “sensibilité” parameter in the Ghub was 100 instead of 50 for some reason.

Thanks again for the incredible work.
Nice! Yeah the sensibility is a bit weird with default being "50" and no real description about the setting...
 
@Jim92 Hi, just saw your review and want to offer my help to either get my lut working for you or to delete it if you want to.
It can be a bit complicated to get it configured and also content manager sometimes has a bug that resets some lut settings when going on track.

So what exactly do you mean with "made my wheel unusable"?

I can promise you that putting any lut into AC can not corrupt any software, damage your wheel or make a reinstall necessary!

You say you re-installed ac and g-hub. Did you delete the assetto corsa folder in your documents folder too?
If not, the config files were still identical even after uninstalling and re-installing via steam.

So if you'd like some help, just give me some more information and I'll try to get things working again :)
 
Thank you for what you have created, it's been great so far. I use the recommended with 50% gain. I have been using about 75% FFB in the car while in game.

I do have some questions regarding FFB tweaks in CSP. Should I use "More physically accurate gyro implementation" and "Range compression". I saw a YT video with the gyro implementation at 25% and range compression at 150% with range compression assist enabled. From my understanding it helped to feel smaller forces. The video had your LUT with these settings, which is why I ask.
 
Thank you for what you have created, it's been great so far. I use the recommended with 50% gain. I have been using about 75% FFB in the car while in game.

I do have some questions regarding FFB tweaks in CSP. Should I use "More physically accurate gyro implementation" and "Range compression". I saw a YT video with the gyro implementation at 25% and range compression at 150% with range compression assist enabled. From my understanding it helped to feel smaller forces. The video had your LUT with these settings, which is why I ask.
Hi,
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Can you send me the video? I'd like to watch it :D

About CSP:
I love the new gyro with my csw 2.5 and I'm convinced that everyone should use it, since it's clearly physically accurate.
25% is the standard value but the slider isn't doing anything since about a year ago or so.
The creator changed the strength to a dynamic calculation based on the car physics and the current driving physics.
So just activate it, leave the slider at default (white number instead of red) and you're good!


About range compression:
I like it! It tries to simulate power steering by using the creator's skills about audio processing. Basically giving the ffb a similar punch as modern club music vs the beatles.

Fun fact: AC has no power steering simulation in its physics, which is why many users who only drive cars WITH it in real life think that AC is a bit dead around the center.

Some cars have some rudimentary "steering assist" but the csp range compression is better! So that replacing checkbox next to the slider should be active too!

150% is a good value. I'm using 150-200% with my csw :)

It does increase the gain a little bit, your 50+75% should be fine already and everything will become a bit tighter and stronger.

I hope that answers your questions? Feel free to ask if there's anything else!
 
Hi,
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Can you send me the video? I'd like to watch it :D

About CSP:
I love the new gyro with my csw 2.5 and I'm convinced that everyone should use it, since it's clearly physically accurate.
25% is the standard value but the slider isn't doing anything since about a year ago or so.
The creator changed the strength to a dynamic calculation based on the car physics and the current driving physics.
So just activate it, leave the slider at default (white number instead of red) and you're good!


About range compression:
I like it! It tries to simulate power steering by using the creator's skills about audio processing. Basically giving the ffb a similar punch as modern club music vs the beatles.

Fun fact: AC has no power steering simulation in its physics, which is why many users who only drive cars WITH it in real life think that AC is a bit dead around the center.

Some cars have some rudimentary "steering assist" but the csp range compression is better! So that replacing checkbox next to the slider should be active too!

150% is a good value. I'm using 150-200% with my csw :)

It does increase the gain a little bit, your 50+75% should be fine already and everything will become a bit tighter and stronger.

I hope that answers your questions? Feel free to ask if there's anything else!
Thank you for the explanation. I have been using those settings, without fully understanding what it does. AC feels better than any other sim/game I play.

Here is the YT video
 
Thank you for the explanation. I have been using those settings, without fully understanding what it does. AC feels better than any other sim/game I play.

Here is the YT video
Thanks for the link! Gonna correct some comments, lol :D

I'd wish that other games would allow to use a LUT too. ACC does by throwing the files into the correct folder since a few years now too, you just won't see the setting.
And iracing does too afaik.

The curvature-idea came from project cars 1 btw! It has "deadzone removal" and "deadzone removal fall-off", which are basically minimum force and "drop off towards the center".

But raceroom, older sims, rfactor 1&2, ams, ams 2, wreckfest etc etc would get a lot nicer for logitech users if they'd allow for LUT post processing...
 
Using a DFGT with Lut and Clip app enabled seems it made the wheel so light, any way to make it heavier like before but smooth with the lut you gave?
Can you post all your settings?
(using winkey + shift + S will activate the snipping tool. Then save the snapshot you took and it will be small enough to drag & drop in the posting field here).

Ffbclip is not recommend by me for logitech users since the logitech wheels simply have not enough power to be strong enough without quite a lot of clipping.
That said, clipping isn't "bad" either.
It's not distorting your ffb like clipping does with sound, since ffb is a static signal containing torque and left/right.
Sound waves need to oscillate to produce music, ffb does not!

So clipping still keeps the left/right correctly and you simply won't feel that the wheel becomes stronger after a certain point.

So you can miss fine details like the grip increase when starting to drive uphill (eau rouge after the apex).

Anyway, post your setting and I'll check if something is wrong.

But I'd recommend to simply delete ffbclip and then use the plus and minus keys on your numpad to set the in-car-ffb back to 100%!
 
(coming from weird g923 LUT curve and wheel shaking)Hello RasmusP and thank you so much for all your work on this ffb-science, I tried following the steps, Should have big improvements (Tomorrow i'll test to avoid noise now), just want to know from you if my setting in content manager are looking good here (Using NoClipButStronger_recommended)
axis ac cm.jpg
ffb ac cm.jpg
Immagine.jpg


P.S. as long we already here, could you please check acc and bng setting as well please
ACC.jpg

BEAMNGFF.jpg


Thanks a lot man
 
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(coming from weird g923 LUT curve and wheel shaking)Hello RasmusP and thank you so much for all your work on this ffb-science, I tried following the steps, Should have big improvements (Tomorrow i'll test to avoid noise now), just want to know from you if my setting in content manager are looking good here (Using NoClipButStronger_recommended)View attachment 602979View attachment 602980View attachment 602985

P.S. as long we already here, could you please check acc and bng setting as well please
View attachment 602991
View attachment 602993

Thanks a lot man
Hi!
Super sorry for the late reply! I skipped the Forum-Alert on the phone and forgot to reply until now.

How is your driving experience now? Did you change anything?

For AC:
- "Auto-adjust scale to match car's steer lock" should be disabled! I'm not exactly sure what it does but it changes the 1:1 linearity of your steering wheel to the virtual car!
AC already matches everything so this checkbox isn't needed and scale should be set to 100% like it is.

Everything else looks good! :)

I would recommend the "new physically accurate Gyro" from the Custom Shaders Patch (CSP) "ffb tweaks" extension on top!


ACC:
Looks good!
Did you put the LUT + ff_post_process.ini in the ACC controls folder?

Personally, I would reduce the dynamic damping (Assorbimento Dinamico) from 100% to 20-40%. Will make the Logitech wheels more alive.

I'm not sure how trueforce works together with a LUT. Or if it works at all...
But your settings look perfect! Without the LUT in ACC, feel free to put the FORZA (overall gain) to 100%. A bit of clipping doesn't matter. Just dial it in to feel good for you!


BeamNG:
I never used BNG so can't really tell you what to do but looking at it, it looks fine!
The response correction curve looks.. inverted?
It says -7% deadzone. Does it mean that there's basically 7% "minimum force" or does it actually create a deadzone of additional 7%?
 
-> Download the zip
-> go into the folder of which LUT you wanna use
-> drag & drop the 2 files into your documents\assetto corsa\cfg

-> CM should show you the LUT then, like this:
View attachment 538777

Alternatively you can just click the checkbox "Enable FFB post-processing", select Mode: LUT and "Import LUT" and navigate to the extracted LUT from the zip-file.

All the file configuration stuff is only needed when you don't use CM or when you messed with the settings a lot and can't find what's missing.
Hey Dude so I followed this on my g27 and the road feels awsome etc, the only issue im facing is Im driving more cars without power steering and this lut gives me the sensation of power steering is enabled. Is there any tweaks you can think of to give the steering just a little more to simulate non power steering. Cheers
 
Hey Dude so I followed this on my g27 and the road feels awsome etc, the only issue im facing is Im driving more cars without power steering and this lut gives me the sensation of power steering is enabled. Is there any tweaks you can think of to give the steering just a little more to simulate non power steering. Cheers
Hi mate,
could you describe what exactly you mean by "sensation of power steering enabled"?
I'm asking because AC has no power steering simulation at all. My LUT config doesn't change anything else apart from the first 20% of ffb being stronger (but in a smooth curve instead of just +15%) to get rid of the deadzone.
Power steering would mean a dynamic compression of steering forces.

When going from the G27 with my LUT to the CSW 2.5, which has no deadzone, everything felt the same, apart from being way stronger and allowing for more dynamic.

So my thoughts are that you mean 2 things by "sensation of power steering":
1. power steering cars are always very tight around the center because of the hydraulic pressure.
cars without power steering feel a bit weak around the center in city traffic.

2. the dynamic range is too low, which is a bit like power steering in real life

The thing is, though, that cars without power steering feel super tight on the Autobahn at higher speeds. And AC is only good at simulating driving quite fast. Everything below 60 kph is a bit "meh".
And the G27 simply has not enough torque to give the dynamic sensation of no-power-steering-cars :(


Quite a long explanation but if you want a bit less tightness around the center and a bit more dynamic range:
Go into your CSP settings (are you using custom shaders patch?), go into the ffb tweaks extention and enable the "Steering range compression".
This is ACTUALLY a dynamic compression of forces. Default is 100%.
300% is like modern power steering in road cars.
For you, 50-70% should achieve what you're searching for :)
 
Hi!

First of all I would like to start by saying that your LUTs feel amazing. I only have one problem though. It's the shaking while driving in a straight line problem. Sometimes the wheel does that and sometimes not. Do you know how can I fully get rid of it? Your setting helped a lot by removing it mostly, but it still does that from time to time. I also think it's worth adding the fact that when I turn my pc on, the wheel calibrates itself and then starts vibrating while being in the middle. But it's strange because it does that only after the profiler goes on. Before that it calibrates itself and then stays in the middle and when you try to move it it returns in the middle without any vibrations or sounds. After the profiler goes on, the wheel starts vibrating a lot and it is very very hard to turn. It looks like the wheel is trying to center itself and gets stuck in the middle vibrating. The wheel I am using is a Logitech G25.
 
Hi!

First of all I would like to start by saying that your LUTs feel amazing. I only have one problem though. It's the shaking while driving in a straight line problem. Sometimes the wheel does that and sometimes not. Do you know how can I fully get rid of it? Your setting helped a lot by removing it mostly, but it still does that from time to time. I also think it's worth adding the fact that when I turn my pc on, the wheel calibrates itself and then starts vibrating while being in the middle. But it's strange because it does that only after the profiler goes on. Before that it calibrates itself and then stays in the middle and when you try to move it it returns in the middle without any vibrations or sounds. After the profiler goes on, the wheel starts vibrating a lot and it is very very hard to turn. It looks like the wheel is trying to center itself and gets stuck in the middle vibrating. The wheel I am using is a Logitech G25.
Hi,
if it vibrates in the center without AC being active, there's a problem with the profiler.
Can you take a Screenshot from your global profile and the game specific profile, if you have one?
For me, the game specific profiles sometimes didn't load correctly, so I deleted them all and always adjusted the global profile, if a change was needed.

I need to have a look at that to see if there's an issue!

If the shaking would be in AC only, you'd need to simply lower the gain. AC has a car specific ffb gain that you can change via the numpad + and - key. Or the "force feedback" app, from the app bar on the right side of your screen while driving.
It should be 80-120% for all cars. They aren't all the same strength, so some fine tuning is needed.
That car specific ffb gets saved for each track.
So whenever you drive a fresh combo of a car and track, you need to adjust the ffb.
 

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