Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

Boxing up my G2 so it can be someone else's new toy!
Hopefully they will enjoy it.

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As i expected. I think we are both on the same page regarding what we want from a VR headset and the G2 just isn't it.

The Index still rocks though and only needs a couple more pixels

I heard positive things about the Pico 3 from Peter, have you considered getting one to try it out.
 
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Woo Hoo!
My last project of the year. Just need to chamfer some of those holes for my bevel head bolts and do a bit of sanding.

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As i expected. I think we are both on the same page regarding what we want from a VR headset and the G2 just isn't it.

The Index still rocks though and only needs a couple more pixels

I heard positive things about the Pico 3 from Peter, have you considered getting one to try it out.

One of his constraints is ease of swapping between triple screens and VR. I'm still planning to hold tight for a while longer.
 
If the buyer of the G2 has not used a G1, they'll enjoy it.

I think the G1 is the only bit of kit that I won't use yet won't sell. Once they're gone, they're gone. So until something better comes out (to me it has not) then I'll keep it here with me just in case.
 
If the buyer of the G2 has not used a G1, they'll enjoy it.

I think the G1 is the only bit of kit that I won't use yet won't sell. Once they're gone, they're gone. So until something better comes out (to me it has not) then I'll keep it here with me just in case.
I never listed the headset. I was approached by someone who has read what I've said about it and asked to buy it. The person who is purchasing the G2 considers it something that he hopes will hold him until something better comes along. I was very honest with him about my impressions. He went in with his eyes open.
 
I do want to list my NLRv3 which has been collecting dust for months now, but I want to make a proper shipping crate for it before I put it for sale. The original packaging that came with it was inadequate for a 65lb payload and given it's condition was promptly thrown away. Ideally I'll find a 40 series profile owner since I made stout brackets made to fit that. Whether I find a home for the aluminum parts I machined for the Race Bass isolation mount, I have no idea. I had to opportunity to sell those parts separately a while back and probably should have.

I still have the NLR brackets to mount to an NLR frame and I still have the BK gamer transducer mount that came with it.

I'm not sure when I'll have time to make that crate, but I know I need to get it out of the house. My wife feels like my rig is large enough without having it's history littering other parts of the house.
 
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I boxed mine in a cardboard box, taped the absolute hell out of it and padded it inside as good as I could. Buyer was more than happy with the result, it even had to cross water as it went from Melbourne to Tasmania. Nothing special needed there, I felt it did the job well enough. No harm in protecting it, but it's going to add yet more shipping cost to an already heavy item.
 
There is a middle ground - sturdy cardboard box - padded to stop it rattling about and strapped to a half size pallet. Depending on size quarter pallet might be fine. It will likely be cheaper than a wooden crate and also easier to handle.
 
I went ahead and listed the NLRv3. I'll get the packaging figured out in the meantime.

Just shipped the Reverb G2 off to it's new owner.

Today my replacement Virpil throttle cable arrives. I actually ordered two of them since my Throttle is an older model. The original cable has an intermittent issue that has been more of an issue with the full chassis motion. I love my Virpil stuff, but the cables are a weak point. I had another cable fail a while back.

That's one reason I have a cable support on my collective stick.
 
Got my new Virpil throttle cable to replace the original that has cloth braiding for my 1st gen Mongoose throttle. There is a gen3 out now, but not much of a difference in functionality except for some very clever detents.
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Been a day to fix things today. First we got a new Treadmill delivered and out of the box and setup by their professionals it immediately died. I popped the cover over the electronics and there was a spade connection dangling. He also plugged in one of the hand grips backwards so the speed wheel didn't work.

Then I noticed a bearing was going out on our spin bike. I can't claim I'm the one who wore that out. It was mostly my wife's miles on it. I'll put it back together as soon as the new bearing arrive in a couple days.
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Just a few days ago I replaced 3 more dry rotting bumpers on our Hoist weight system.

Next I need to install the new casters I got for our 13 year old Weber grill that are decomposing.

It's great having nice things that last a while and I guess a little maintenance is a lot better than having to buy new.
 
I'm starting to think my odds of going any period of time without doing something to rig is becoming infinitesimally small :( OTOH, this is really getting to into tiny nit picky things.

I milled this sequential shift mount out of solid aluminum early last year and it had a cosmetic issue where I buggered up the rear bolt slot. I was "planning" to remake it more perfectly, but I realized that was becoming less likely to ever happen. So I broke down and printed a cover for it.

I'll know my mistake is still there, but it looks much better now, so I'm calling it done.

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Variations on a theme...
I had scotch tape covering the two unused cable plug openings on my G-Box control box and decided something a bit more polished might be nice.

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I just used a little non-drying window caulk to hold it in place.
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What I'm seeing is actually pretty cool. On the track, the SC2 Pro pulls more power loading up in the corners and the D-Box mostly isn't pulling much power, however in Rally the D-Box pulls more power while the SC2 doesn't load up nearly as much. So I end up with similar overall power levels in Rally and on the Track.


So my computer ends up being the power pig.
Keep in mind that the power below is 80W + spikes from the transducer amplifiers in addition to the computer. So the computer is pulling about 420-440W throughout the game in VR with all settings maxed.

 
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I have found myself in a love / hate relationship with my G2. I've never used an index, only a Rift s in the past. I am looking forward to the index 2 release when the time comes. Out of curiosity I wonder if you experience the jarring head stutter when there are small deviations in frame rate.

I am only running a 3080ti and I mostly play F1 22 with it. I can get my settings to a point where I can hold 88-89 fps pretty consistently. Unfortunately when you drive by grandstands the fps will dip to 83-85 range. While this doesn't seem like a hugely significant fluctuation it results in very jerky tracking with even the slightest head movement. Do you experience anything similar to this?
I see this a lot. With just a small frame drop it's very noticeable in the G2 with head stutters.
I notice it at even 87-88 fps I think. Solid 90 fps is the only way to go for the G2.
 
  • Deleted member 197115

I see this a lot. With just a small frame drop it's very noticeable in the G2 with head stutters.
I notice it at even 87-88 fps I think. Solid 90 fps is the only way to go for the G2.
Unfortunately VR HMDs do not support variable frame rate and you are limited to:
- have reliable 90fps at all times
- with WMR switch to 60hz refresh rate, this way you only need 60fps. Unfortunately it's not as smooth and good looking as 90hz mode and has some faint flickering that you may or may not get used to
- use forced reprojection, you will run at effective 45fps and driver will create synthetic frames to make it 90. In motion it doesn't look very nice and overall image quality degrades with some blurring and artifacting.
- use auto reprojection, the promise is that driver will change to normal 90fps or reprojection based 45fps depending on the load. But back and forth switching results in some jarring experience that might be even worse than forced reprojection. Another bad thing with WMR reprojection (not sure if it was fixed in recent updates) is that it introduces auxiliary load on GPU, so you might have enough headroom to run 90fps with reprojection disabled and all over sudden dropping below magical 90 with it on auto, triggering switch to reprojection mode.
 
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It does appear that a frame rate that is acceptable does vary by person and I have noticed that any perceived latency is a huge issue as well.

Anton, my "Guess" about this is that your early experience with Pimax and extremely low frame rates has conditioned you. Whereas I started with a CV1 which was highly efficient and had the most efficient reprojection at the time and then I moved to the Index. So I never got used to that low a frame rate. More over I've developed an appreciation for higher frame rates.

I'm running 90 - 144 fps with no reprojection in all my game currently. In some games I find the difference in frame rates very noticeable. In shooting games it makes the largest difference. I've been running 144fps in a number of shooters and it almost feels like I'm cheating based in the improvements I'm seeing.

"One of the biggest technical challenges of VR is delivering content at a high enough frame rate to accurately "trick" the user into believing he or she is experiencing the external world. Studies have shown that in practice, any VR setup that generates frame rates below 90 frames per second (FPS) is likely to induce disorientation, nausea, and other negative user effects. The lower the frame rate, the worse the effects."

Frame rate vs Resolution: a subjective evaluation of
spatio-temporal perceived quality under varying
computational budgets

Since your head is always moving a bit in VR, a higher frame rate does improve image quality as the moving image blend giving you more of a sense of presence( the you are there feeling) However I've also found that steroscopic vision also impacts this feeling in a very substantial way.

I've seen graphs that show a convergence in how important both frame rate and resolution are. You obviously need enough of both for a game to be playable and there is some subjective feel for how sensitive you are to each.
 
I started on the CV1, which I couldn't wait to move on from, hence the backing of the Pimax 8K back in 2016 and then I moved on from there. I've had:

Oculus Rift CV1
Pimax 5K+
Valve Index
Reverb G1
Reverb G2 (x2)

I always found the ability to lock to a lower frame rate, as opposed to just letting it jump around and occasionally hit 90hz whenever it could, was a much better option. I'm very much a believer of higher FPS is better, especially since trying 120/144hz monitors and seeing the benefit of that with my own eyes.

For whatever reason, I found the 60hz on pretty much all headsets that supported it a very usable option and I've never really bothered to sacrifice whatever extra SS I could gain by using it. I am a heavy user of ACC and this might be the reason that I adopted such an approach since the game is widely known to be very demanding to get looking sharp. I'd never use 60hz in place of 90+ given the hardware to power it (at a high enough resolution) was capable. The fact that I could avoid the awful re projection side effects coupled with the fact that the frame rate was more or less locked at that 60hz for the duration of the race meant that it was the best compromise for me. Had I experienced flickering or any other issues that other people state they have I probably would have a different opinion.
 

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