Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

BIG NOOB HERE :) 4 bass shakers question. Please I am really bad with audio systems so explaining to a monkey like will be perfect:) I am looking to build 4 corners of the rig with bass shakers and liked this amp Behringer EPQ304 and Reckhorn BS-200i bass shakers . How the hell should I connect it? I know 4 output goes to the bass shakers but amp has 4 inputs? Should I buy 2 x3.5 MM Male - XLR Stereo Male cable ,buy 3.5mm splitter (connect all these ) and plug to green on my sound card(thats channel 1,2) Than I need another 2x 3.5 MM Male - XLR Stereo Male cable ,buy 3.5mm splitter connect all these and go to black (rear on my sound card ,channel 3 and 4)? Do I need something else to run these setup?Is the amp good for these bass shakers .Thank you guys
 
ScreaminBejesus guide is awesome, very complex, but its not for my budget, i think i will start the 2 exciter on the sides and missing out on the frequencies below 40hz. I only need road, curbs, and wheel lock if i understand this correctly and i assume those are higher than 40hz or i hope :D

Where is the ScreamingBejesus build guide people keep referring other people to?
I've tried multiple searches & can't find anything?
:(
 
BIG NOOB HERE :) 4 bass shakers question. Please I am really bad with audio systems so explaining to a monkey like will be perfect:) I am looking to build 4 corners of the rig with bass shakers and liked this amp Behringer EPQ304 and Reckhorn BS-200i bass shakers . How the hell should I connect it? I know 4 output goes to the bass shakers but amp has 4 inputs? Should I buy 2 x3.5 MM Male - XLR Stereo Male cable ,buy 3.5mm splitter (connect all these ) and plug to green on my sound card(thats channel 1,2) Than I need another 2x 3.5 MM Male - XLR Stereo Male cable ,buy 3.5mm splitter connect all these and go to black (rear on my sound card ,channel 3 and 4)? Do I need something else to run these setup?Is the amp good for these bass shakers .Thank you guys

Just as FYI, Two of these $50 (US)(without Bluetooth) mini amps might be a cheaper alternative, but I will only be powering:
Four AuraSound AST-2B-4
50W 4ohm shakers (Reckhorn not available in US) for each corner,

I'm about to order 2 of these amps (1 for each pair of shakers):

2 Channel Amplifier Stereo Audio Amp Mini Hi-Fi Class D Integrated TPA3116 Amp for Home Speakers 50W x 2, with 19V 4.74A Power Supply - Fosi Audio V1.0

(
Youtube review
Fosi BT10A Mini Stereo Amplifier
)


I was considering the Nobsound 2x50W mini amps, but they only come with weaker power adaptors, while the Fosi amp includes 19v 4.74A power yielding 90W. (additional 24v adaptors would cost me $19 each). (same total price, with enough power equivalent to the Fosi which appears to be better quality)
 
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I assume that must be the one! Thanks a bunch! Awesome :geek:

I had searched on ScreaminGBejesus with a "g" copied from some posts. That's why I couldn't find with a Search.
 
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Any chance this might be helpful to some of your tactile setups?

This fits both the Neutrik 2 and 4 pole receiver plugs. Neutrik shares the 3D models of their receivers, so I was able to subtract it directly and make a perfect fit for it.


Neutrik2_4PoleReceiverMount_6346.jpg

Neutrik2_4PoleReceiverMount_6350.jpg


Ended up going 4 pole with a single plug.

NeutrikFootPlate_6355.jpg
NeutrikFootPlate_6352.jpg
 
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Just as FYI, Two of these $50 (US)(without Bluetooth) mini amps might be a cheaper alternative, but I will only be powering:
Four AuraSound AST-2B-4
50W 4ohm shakers (Reckhorn not available in US) for each corner,

I'm about to order 2 of these amps (1 for each pair of shakers):

2 Channel Amplifier Stereo Audio Amp Mini Hi-Fi Class D Integrated TPA3116 Amp for Home Speakers 50W x 2, with 19V 4.74A Power Supply - Fosi Audio V1.0

(
Youtube review
Fosi BT10A Mini Stereo Amplifier
)


I was considering the Nobsound 2x50W mini amps, but they only come with weaker power adaptors, while the Fosi amp includes 19v 4.74A power yielding 90W. (additional 24v adaptors would cost me $19 each). (same total price, with enough power equivalent to the Fosi which appears to be better quality)

I think the amp is underpowered for the shakers you want, the amp is rated for 50w at 4ohm per channel and that power supply only giving 90W so you going to have about 40W per speaker (based on 2 shakers and taking in account for power loss to heat) which is not enough for the AST-2B-4 .

I have the Fosi BT20A with outputs 100W per channel at 4Ohm - which migh be a better option for you
 
BIG NOOB HERE :) 4 bass shakers question. Please I am really bad with audio systems so explaining to a monkey like will be perfect:) I am looking to build 4 corners of the rig with bass shakers and liked this amp Behringer EPQ304 and Reckhorn BS-200i bass shakers . How the hell should I connect it? I know 4 output goes to the bass shakers but amp has 4 inputs? Should I buy 2 x3.5 MM Male - XLR Stereo Male cable ,buy 3.5mm splitter (connect all these ) and plug to green on my sound card(thats channel 1,2) Than I need another 2x 3.5 MM Male - XLR Stereo Male cable ,buy 3.5mm splitter connect all these and go to black (rear on my sound card ,channel 3 and 4)? Do I need something else to run these setup?Is the amp good for these bass shakers .Thank you guys
hi, I have no info on the shakers you are using, but I do use a epq304 amplifier brilliant amplifier. You would need a 3.5mm trs cable to male xlr, the trs will carry the stereo signal L/R then will spilt into a twin xlr. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01BYGQ7AA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image. Please do check your sound card because I brought the ones In the link and the ends are a bit big so can’t run them side by side on the outputs from the sound card due to my outputs not having a big clearance from the next output, yet my usb card will take 5 in a row. But that’s the cable you will need to run from sound card to amplifier.
 
Any chance this might be helpful to some of your tactile setups?

This fits both the Neutrik 2 and 4 pole receiver plugs. Neutrik shares the 3D models of their receivers, so I was able to subtract it directly and make a perfect fit for it.


View attachment 459716
View attachment 459717

Ended up going 4 pole with a single plug.

View attachment 460353View attachment 460354
Brilliant idea!! On the 3d print holder. I brought
A 19inch rack rail if I would of seen this would of made it easier for me. Thanks for sharing
 
Having a hard time getting a good gear shift effect ..in all sims but right now i'm focusing on AMS2. I have tried layering the effect, but that does not seem to make much diffrence? I'm using 4 buttkicker mini lfe at each corner. My first gear shift frequency is at 40hz and the second at 52hz. When I do a test I feel them pretty good..but when in the car and driving the shifts are barely noticable. I do have both of them on a effect priority. I am only using 6 effects in total in that profile ,with the engine effect been Mr. Latte's RPM test, which works very well. Other effects eg: wheel slip/wheel lock work great and are felt very much. Just not sure what to do to get a good gear shift "clunk" ? BTW..the car I have been using/testing with is the Lotus 79 with a 5 speed manual. thanks in advance for any suggestions
 
Having a hard time getting a good gear shift effect ..in all sims but right now i'm focusing on AMS2. I have tried layering the effect, but that does not seem to make much diffrence? I'm using 4 buttkicker mini lfe at each corner. My first gear shift frequency is at 40hz and the second at 52hz. When I do a test I feel them pretty good..but when in the car and driving the shifts are barely noticable. I do have both of them on a effect priority. I am only using 6 effects in total in that profile ,with the engine effect been Mr. Latte's RPM test, which works very well. Other effects eg: wheel slip/wheel lock work great and are felt very much. Just not sure what to do to get a good gear shift "clunk" ? BTW..the car I have been using/testing with is the Lotus 79 with a 5 speed manual. thanks in advance for any suggestions
Maybe the gear shift effect is dilluted by a more continous rumble coming from road surface/vibration or engine/rpm/parametric.
Or your current setup doesn´t allow for the shakers to provide sudden, high energy spikes.
 
Thank you for the help( and the tip for the motherboard space) . I think epq304 won't be enough unfortunately for Reckhorns as they are 100w and amp is just 75w.I am looking for alternative 4 channel amps but they are expensive and really powerfull. I think the cheapest one available BEHRINGER - NX4-6000 ...Will continue looking but Im open to suggestions...
 
Maybe the gear shift effect is dilluted by a more continous rumble coming from road surface/vibration or engine/rpm/parametric.
Or your current setup doesn´t allow for the shakers to provide sudden, high energy spikes.
Thanks for reply I thought perhaps the same too...but then why do or example does wheel lockup feel so strong? Or others? I may look into getting another sound card and another mini life so I can put that onto seperate channel, and have option then to add couple more that can be dedicated to certain effects without muddying others
 
Thanks for reply I thought perhaps the same too...but then why do or example does wheel lockup feel so strong? Or others? I may look into getting another sound card and another mini life so I can put that onto seperate channel, and have option then to add couple more that can be dedicated to certain effects without muddying others
maybe you are under heavy braking, your speed/rpms are lowering, hence that effect is decreasing accordingly, making the lock more noticeable? Try testing heavy braking without downshifts just for making clear the effects.
 
So I've had a bit of time playing with and using the 3 different engine profiles in the latest Mr Latte profile drop and can confirm that all of them can be made to feel really good if you spend some time tweaking the volumes of the individual effects.

I am now sticking with No. 2 which has the most effects in it and also feels the best overall now that I've toned down the mid range of the revs. Reduced both of those volumes to only 10% and now everything feels much more engaging and effective at giving useful feedback instead of overbearing noise.

Thanks so much once again Rod for an awesome leg up with providing profiles for us. I've been running solely engine vibes on the MQB-1 for the last fortnight and been completely satisfied with the result.
 
This approach of using multiple layers works well with various effects.Yet we don't want to have too many layers but enough to adjust the felt sensation to feel good for its role. This to some extent, lets the user EQ their own felt output as they keep the operating frequencies but increase/decrease the amplitude of each layer, including its generated harmonics that give a combined variation to the complete effects response.

It's only an example of the potential with that approach but as stated before, much better is possible.
If you want the best especially from engines, then you need at least one large BK, a TST unit and the exciters.

I have more advanced effects that combine Speed and RPM but to fully push the possibilities.
What works best is to output low bass layers specifically for large BK, to then use TST for harmonically matching frequencies of those going to the BK for much nicer RPM.

Then by also applying speed-based layers to exciters and some low bass also using Speed to the BK.

A lot of time has been put into researching this and making it all gel. Finally getting to grips with it and understanding how we can apply much more to the feel for engines.

With this method, we achieve more dynamic range, and we avoid a single unit trying to cope with each highly constant effect (RPM/Speed) to reproduce a better output in clarity/detail and depth but of course also because having different units being felt via different body zones compounds the felt response as well.

People talk about less is more... I prefer to think around that, as why rely then on a single unit's limitations or performance if you want additional detail and better sensations.

What Anton, you are experiencing with that shared example, might be okay, but it's still far off what's possible mate.

However, If your happy that's good and what matters
 
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Hi,

I am in the process of upgrading my 8020 rig's tactile coming from BK Gamers without any effort of isolation.

I have ordered two alu plates, both to be isolated from the main frame and one to mount the pedals and one to mount the seat to.

1 BK LFE each will be fixed to either of those plates. I will have to experiment with the effectiveness of various isolation solutions discussed on the forums, as especially the pedal section seems to be pretty tightly coupled to the whole rig.

I will power those with an NX3000D.

So work in progress, I am sure there will be some specific questions, once the plates have been shipped and I done the initial installation.

Now to my question: I have a BK Advance available without an amp.

Does it even make sense to try to include this unit in the current basic approach, e.g. for spectral separation under seat? I am not planning to go into left/right separation at the moment as it seems to involve much more effort and also equipment...

So should I sell the BK Advance or is there anything to be gained compared to two LFEs?

Thanks guys!

Chris
 
So, I'm considering my options. I have two seats to choose from:
  1. I have an aluminum bucket race seat (UltraShield SpecMiata)
  2. Sparco Circuit composite race seat.
I started with the aluminum seat. But I found that its so stiff that the exciters didn't really transmit much low frequency energy INTO the seat. AT low frequencies the exciters just resonate. At higher frequencies (eg, 1Khz) the seat response like a speaker. So, I switched to the Sparco. The fiberglass is much less rigid and responds much better to the 40-200 Hz range of tactile.

However....the Sparco is very small---300mm (12") at the hips. That's fine for me...I'm 6' 145lbs---it fits like a glove. But, no one else on earth (except my 15 year old nephew) can fit. So, I was considering options for a more "universal fit" seat. I was looking at the various NRG FRP-3xx options. The price is ok, but they create some dimensional issues for my Rig-In-Progress (RIP), though. My RIP is 19" wide (based on the Sparco), and the NRG are all 20".

So, I was considering going BACK to the aluminum seat. But, instead of mounting the exciters to the exterior of the seat...mounting them to the INTERIOR shell, and covering/infilling between them with a layer of foam. My aluminum seat is 17" wide at the hips, the exciters are just under 1" tall. If I covered them with 1/4" of foam, that would still leave a 14.5" bucket. Which would be plenty for me, and also my Dad (my primary likely audience :).

I guess this would be akin to the shaker pillows or whatever that you can buy...except that it would be FIXED to the seat, and I'm planning 6 exciters minimum, along with 2x BK-LFE (Left/Right under seat).

Anyone have any experience going this route? Its obviously VERY direct body contact with the exciters...there's no resonant body needed to absorb and transmit the energy. Perhaps a downside is there's also less opportunity for "blending" of effects from multiple shakers in the seat material.

Thoughts?
 
I'm looking to buy 6 Dayton Audio BST-1 50w bass shakers with 3 Nobsound 2 x 50w Soundcard/Amps. I want to put 2 on each side at the bottom of my monitor mount for front tires (this is about 8 inches in front of my pedal deck and it's attached to my rig) 1 under my pedal deck, 1 under seat and 2 more on 10 inch metal roads attached on each side of the back of the seat (for rear tires). Wondering if someone has a similar setup and if this makes any sense. Thanks

 

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