Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

I have two NX300D's each powering a BK advance and LFE. They work great and have DSP, which you will probably want to have.

My only small concern is running RPM and seeming to overheat the amp/shaker at higher volumes. Still tweaking to get things the way I want, but the amps are fantastic.
That is good to know, I saw a couple of review of the NX amps and they all mentioned how cool they run but how Loyd the fan is. Have you found the fan to be too loud?
 
I have two NX300D's each powering a BK advance and LFE. They work great and have DSP, which you will probably want to have.

My only small concern is running RPM and seeming to overheat the amp/shaker at higher volumes. Still tweaking to get things the way I want, but the amps are fantastic.
Do you have them mounted in a rack or case? I have a tight space to put them in and need to mount them vertically so am looking for some type of rack or case they will fit into.
 
I use a fabric sparce r100 seat and am planning to buy some daex32ep-4 exciters, but am wondering if it will be possible to stick the exciters to the sides / back of seat? I read about 3m vhb, but this will ruin the seat if i would one want to remove the exciters again... Really not wanting to buy another seat, what would my best option be?
 
Feb Update:
Focussing on my own goals and continuing my progress with the additional audio hardware I am for utilising.

Still much to do for rigs installation and build. Below is all to do with the audio routing and control of the audio. This will set a high benchmark for the specialist installation of tactile the rig will have installed and how it can be used.

Having an idea of how things may work or be used is not quite the same as making it happen.
Here are things my own build will do that are different to the norm. :geek:


Audio Awesomeness:
I have been attempting to get to grips with the full functionality of the audio interface and specialist apps via iPad. Its been a fun challenge but just blows me away on the potential it makes possible.



Abilities:
  • Realtime monitoring of up to 18 Shakeit tactile channels and 6 (5.1) audio channels
  • Multi-device monitoring and control possibilities via PC, iPad & Android hardware at once
  • Use different devices to show/offer various desired apps and controls
  • Manage 8 primary channels with professional EQ/Crossover tuning abilities and specialist plugins
  • Apply wireless control of audio interface and iPad apps via multi-function Bluetooth midi controller
  • Ability to modify mixing of 5.1 Audio and telemetry based tactile effects to desired preference
  • HA6000, LED dB meters with bass/treble/gain control (5.1 audio) + (18 Shakeit) tactile channels
  • Rig to support up to 24 transducers
  • High-performance specialist effects using transducers with specific effect roles
  • 4x BK LFE / 6x BK CT / 4x TST 429 / 2x TST 329 / 8x 40w Exciters
  • Amplification via 9x iNuke DSP amps & 2x EPQ 304






    Audio apps Galore!
    Above are just some examples of the various ways I can monitor the audio and see in great detail exactly what will be going to each of the 18 channels. One very impressive find has been learning to use the ProQ3 "Dynamic EQ" feature and also apply a crossover within this for what will be the rigs primary 8 channels for the pedals and seat base. It's just awesome how it works automatically based on the audio output and far exceeds what can be done with the amps DSP.

    Audio comes from the various sound cards and goes into multiple HA6000.
    This allows each card/channel to have simple gain/bass/treble control applied. Also the balance of the mix for each channel in how the 5.1 game audio is combined with the Simhub Shakeit tactile. Of course, each can also just run individually for any channel.

    It may be a very complex configuration to take on, but I have to say it is being made very easy to control with this approach. So far I have only been testing 2 channels but it's looking very promising and achieve what I have been wanting for a long time with this specialist build.

    In fairness, this is a self hobby/project on its own and few (if any) it appears have went to these lengths before. Nor will most people even consider such. I certainly have not seen, someone take the control of their (Game Audio) and (Tactile Audio) to these levels or the things it can make possible but I have always sought to push the boundaries with audio for my own build.

    While I think I will prefer to use quality headphones for enclosed audio enjoyment. The rig will also use a unique speaker configuration for much wider audio dispersion and stereo effects enhancement. This using an approach I have not seen before and with some creative ideas.

    Quite chuffed with the progress so far, much still to learn and do...​
 
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Hoihman I believe has older iNuke vertically mounted. Should not be a problem. As these are pro audio amps, like many they have high airflow but noisey fans. Personally I have had no issues with any amps using recommended fans. Search forums as previous discussions on this.
 
hi there,

Today I installed rubber antishocks between my seat and chassis frame. They add some "wobbling" while breaking hard, or even when i reposition myself in the seat.
My doubt is if this normal, no way to get rid of it? did I need stiffer antishockers?
 
Hoihman I believe has older iNuke vertically mounted. Should not be a problem. As these are pro audio amps, like many they have high airflow but noisey fans. Personally I have had no issues with any amps using recommended fans. Search forums as previous discussions on this.

That is cool, vertically is the only way they will fit in my space.
 
hi there,

Today I installed rubber antishocks between my seat and chassis frame. They add some "wobbling" while breaking hard, or even when i reposition myself in the seat.
My doubt is if this normal, no way to get rid of it? did I need stiffer antishockers?

Which product did you use? They don't do a good job of posting weight limits and specs.
 
Yep those are good and firm.

I have tested all 3

If using softer/basic isolators then it makes sense to use more of them to help restrict the wobble but still offer good decoupling from the main rig.

This type of thing needs trial and error but a firmer primary isolator and then using a softer initial layer can help give some initial movement but also enough firmness to restrict wobble. Applying more than one layer/solution will work better than a single solution to help maintain the vibes better or reduce harmonics/noise.
 
No probs, I bought both but have not done proper comparisons on them (been too busy). I personally prefer the EPQ304 (with fan mod). One reason not previously brought up is, while it also looks more professional/rack-mountable it can use balanced cables for its source inputs.

As it is not relying on unbalanced inputs like the Nobsound does with its RCA connections. So the EPQ 304 will not suffer from any potential interference from airwaves or other electronics.

A plinth/base of some type for the cockpit is the way forward. You could add various isolation to this and maybe even use the base if you wanted to store amps and cables. Depends how much work you want to give yourself but yes I have the same issue as my rig is upstairs in a bedroom.

For a cheap solution, then an mdf board covered with 1-3 layers of different sound/vibration isolation, and with 4-5 of these in beneath could be rather effective. Just an idea, depends on what dimensions you intend to use for a base as well what may be suitable.

In relation to a riser, I wanted to make you aware of this possible solution. I built one of these last summer for a friend so he could play drums in his apartment without falling out with his neighbours. Cheap, fairly easy to make, absorbs vibration really well and is very strong. It's basically two sheets of Mdf with tennis balls between them and then wrapped in carpet. It came out looking very professional. I hope it's of help to someone.

 
In relation to a riser, I wanted to make you aware of this possible solution. I built one of these last summer for a friend so he could play drums in his apartment without falling out with his neighbours. Cheap, fairly easy to make, absorbs vibration really well and is very strong. It's basically two sheets of Mdf with tennis balls between them and then wrapped in carpet. It came out looking very professional. I hope it's of help to someone.



Seen ideas like that before. These would also be a cheap solution to try if wanting to limit vibes below.
However they may bring more wobble, with the weight of a rig/adult and applying pressure to brakes or with users body movements. There are many specialist floor companies that do antivibration and noise suppression/deadening materials/solutions. Also in the car/audio industry has several brands of products.

It just depends on how much effort/cost people want to go to in finding solutions.
 
hi there,

Today I installed rubber antishocks between my seat and chassis frame. They add some "wobbling" while breaking hard, or even when i reposition myself in the seat.
My doubt is if this normal, no way to get rid of it? did I need stiffer antishockers?

After trying a different option I fitted these a couple of days ago an am really impressed with how firm the seat still feels. It will wobble side to side very slightly if I really try to rock it but I don't notice any movement whilst driving. They're the 20mm(h)*30mm(w) version;

 
@Brutal Deluxe

Did you use only a set of 4 at the seat mounting holes? Do you have any photos to share?

Yes, just 4 on the mounting holes. There's not much to see really but here's a couple of photos;


They do 3 versions;

male/male
male/female
female/female

I went with male/female and have the male thread pointing upwards. Please note that the male thread is about 20mm long. So if you don't have seat runners and want to screw them directly in to 2080 profile (using the male/male option), you'd need an almost 10mm spacer.

Let me know if you need any other details.
 
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After trying a different option I fitted these a couple of days ago an am really impressed with how firm the seat still feels. It will wobble side to side very slightly if I really try to rock it but I don't notice any movement whilst driving. They're the 20mm(h)*30mm(w) version;

those are very similar to what I bought, i´m afraid I took the smaller version 15x20-ish.
Or quite worst quality.
 
I've been a bit obsessed at the idea of finding the ultimate dirt cheap amp circuit board for various transducers. I'm taking a break for a while because I've found exactly what I've been looking for to drive what I have. I decided to create a blog post so I can keep it up to date if I find more info.

https://www.vanagony.com/buttkicker-amps-bass-shaker-cheap-amp-alternatives-driving-chair-sim/

Good news. For modest transducers (including BK mini and AuraSound), the best amp is $5 / channel.

What are you using to power the TPA 3116's with the Aurasound's?

I ordered 6 amps based off your hard work...thanks
 

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