RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT

Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

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Hey i have a question should i change fbb for different cars cuz for example porsche feels really nice to drive like a heavy feeling but when i drive amg it feels so light, so would u recommend to increase fbb for amg or i should leave it the same all the time

ty :)
That's a bit more complicated but also very easy:
All cars are indeed a bit different. As far as I know the cars are build as close to real life as possible and the geometry will give "correct" steering force outputs.
Then you have the different output levels of all the cars and they set a certain level to be 100%.

So if you would have a big direct drive wheel with one kunos car set to have the real life ffb levels, all cars would be pretty much like reality.
In theory...

The issue with the Logitech wheels is that they can't output anything close to reality apart from a little fiat in "city parking mode" :roflmao:

So you end up with 2 possibilities:
1. Accept that the amg is weaker than the Porsche, although probably both cars are too weak on a Logitech wheel anyway

2. Simply use plus and minus in the numpad to adjust the per-car-ffb-level on the fly while driving until it feels good.


With my LUTs, things get even more complicated because the center position will only feel perfectly tight in a range of about 10%, without a deadzone, while also not shaking or having a notch from too much forces around the center.


So my advice:
Simply adjust every car until the center position feels perfect.
The rest of the ffb will still be a little bit different since all car geometries are different.
But the forces around the center will always be the same.
 
That's a bit more complicated but also very easy:
All cars are indeed a bit different. As far as I know the cars are build as close to real life as possible and the geometry will give "correct" steering force outputs.
Then you have the different output levels of all the cars and they set a certain level to be 100%.

So if you would have a big direct drive wheel with one kunos car set to have the real life ffb levels, all cars would be pretty much like reality.
In theory...

The issue with the Logitech wheels is that they can't output anything close to reality apart from a little fiat in "city parking mode" :roflmao:

So you end up with 2 possibilities:
1. Accept that the amg is weaker than the Porsche, although probably both cars are too weak on a Logitech wheel anyway

2. Simply use plus and minus in the numpad to adjust the per-car-ffb-level on the fly while driving until it feels good.


With my LUTs, things get even more complicated because the center position will only feel perfectly tight in a range of about 10%, without a deadzone, while also not shaking or having a notch from too much forces around the center.


So my advice:
Simply adjust every car until the center position feels perfect.
The rest of the ffb will still be a little bit different since all car geometries are different.
But the forces around the center will always be the same.
Thanks a lot mate really appreciate it, gonna play with numpad to adjust my car :)
 
Thanks a lot mate really appreciate it, gonna play with numpad to adjust my car :)

the center position will only feel perfectly tight in a range of about 10%
About this: I don't mean that you should only change each car about 10%.
I mean that once you've found the good center position feeling, only +/- 5% from there will still feel good.

But some cars might need 130% and some only 80% per-car-ffb-gain.
 
About this: I don't mean that you should only change each car about 10%.
I mean that once you've found the good center position feeling, only +/- 5% from there will still feel good.

But some cars might need 130% and some only 80% per-car-ffb-gain.
Thanks man really appreciate all this hard work, you are the best :) gonna play with fbb tonight cant wait :D!
 
So you mean my "CM sometimes resets your settings to what they were before" might be due to loading specific control settings for a car?
Damn.. I have to test this! Thanks a lot for this hint!

Also nice that you're enjoying the driving now :)

Yes, basically it resets because it's overriden by that setting in the "Drive" menu
Just a little addition:
The wheel isn't shaking because a lut is not used. It is shaking because an incompatible lut is still loaded or the minimum force got set too high :p
Yup, i got that as soon as I started testing the lut without CM.
And thank you again for the awesome LUT!
 
Hey what ingame settings would u suggest for assetto corsa competizione with your LUT

Thanks
Hi,
another helpful person from the community approached me a while back to use my guide as the base for his acc guide.
Have a look here:
 
It's the ultimate ffb for g29 but...... g923 is compatible 'mate?
I sadly never had a g923 in my hands to test it myself but it should either be similar to the g920 or the g29.
The g29 behaves like the g25 and G27 but the g920 seems to have a higher inbuilt game, which makes the dead zone a lot smaller.

I worked with a few community members to create a g920 lut for them.

I'd say:
Simply try both! It's just 2 files to copy into your documents folder :)

And if you can't get happy with either, please look for the "lut generator" here at RD.
Not to actually use the lut from it!
Only do the wheel check according to the manual over there and send me the file.

I'll create you a custom LUT in my style that should work pretty well.
If not, I'll adjust it according to your feedback! :)
 
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I sadly never had a g923 in my hands to test it myself but it should either be similar to the g920 or the g29.
The g29 behaves like the g25 and G27 but the g920 seems to have a higher inbuilt game, which makes the dead zone a lot smaller.

I worked with a few community members to create a g920 lut for them.

I'd say:
Simply try both! It's just 2 files to copy into your documents folder :)

And if you can't get happy with either, please look for the "lut generator" here at RD.
Not to actually use the lut from it!
Only do the wheel check according to the manual over there and send me the file.

I'll create you a custom LUT in my style that should work pretty well.
If not, I'll adjust it according to your feedback! :)
I tried the noclipbutstronger on my g923, and sadly for me, i cant feel it! :/ Its like my wheel don`t have any weight at all. Pretty sure i did it right with the files :) It feels Very snappy tho..
 
I tried the noclipbutstronger on my g923, and sadly for me, i cant feel it! :/ Its like my wheel don`t have any weight at all. Pretty sure i did it right with the files :) It feels Very snappy tho..
Snappy but no weight? That seems weird...
My LUT only changes the very first percent of the ffb. It's basically just a curved shape minimum force.

So only the center feel should change!
To make sure that everything else is normal, try the "normal center" LUT.
It's not as smooth as the "noclipbutstronger", but it's made for 100% gain, so default settings.
 
Snappy but no weight? That seems weird...
My LUT only changes the very first percent of the ffb. It's basically just a curved shape minimum force.

So only the center feel should change!
To make sure that everything else is normal, try the "normal center" LUT.
It's not as smooth as the "noclipbutstronger", but it's made for 100% gain, so default settings.
I will try! :) My third logitech wheel because of faulty FFB and extreme ratteling. So i hope this one will survive , lol :)
 
Works like a charm now! :) Seesm like the g923 100% FFb is the way to go.
Nice to hear! :)

I really have to work on the "recommended" LUT again..
Looking back, I should scale it a bit differently to be more compatible with ac and acc and all Logitech wheels.

It felt perfect with my G27 and I couldn't really be bothered to "make things pretty"...
 
I sadly never had a g923 in my hands to test it myself but it should either be similar to the g920 or the g29.
The g29 behaves like the g25 and G27 but the g920 seems to have a higher inbuilt game, which makes the dead zone a lot smaller.

I worked with a few community members to create a g920 lut for them.

I'd say:
Simply try both! It's just 2 files to copy into your documents folder :)

And if you can't get happy with either, please look for the "lut generator" here at RD.
Not to actually use the lut from it!
Only do the wheel check according to the manual over there and send me the file.

I'll create you a custom LUT in my style that should work pretty well.
If not, I'll adjust it according to your feedback! :)
Do you mind me sending you my file? It looks crazy, G923 Trueforce
 
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For everyone: between the posts was a little PM with the files.
The G923 curve looks similar to all Logitech wheels, so nothing special.

The deadzone however is, apparently at about 4%.

Answering Knarfex's questions in public for everyone to read:

I do this all in Excel. Simply having a table like the LUT file. 100 lines and drawing the table as a non-interpolated graph with points.
Left column is 0-100, 0.01 steps.
Right column is freestyle.
Values I keep:
- the deadzone result from wheelcheck (for example 15%)
- 1.00 as the final value

Here's how it looks:
Lut_Excel_Example.jpg

LUT Generator seems to have measured 8% deadzone. It's the first value. 1% ffb = 8% output to the wheel driver.

The rest is the usual, weird curve that feels quite awful imo. Wheelcheck measures ffb pulses over wheelbase friction.
It's not the same as static force against your hands though.

So with 8% minimum force in the game it would look like this:
Step_1.jpg


And now I need to smooth the edge at the beginning.
Another trick I've found:
No matter how smooth the curve is, there's always a little "hole" due to the 0% = 0%.
When you raise this, it will just be random ffb noise. Like "white noise" instead of music.
If you put in a too high value, the wheel will vibrate like crazy when standing still or will even start to shake!
So the very first "ffb noise" value is experimental and needs testing.

Since the G923 has 4-8% deadzone from the wheelcheck data, I'll go with some soft 0.04 for the first test.
You also need to go a bit higher than just the deadzone with the curve to make it tight.

So from this:
Step_2_1.jpg

To that:
Step_2.jpg


And now smoothen the rest:
Step_3.jpg



No black magic involved, just a nicely shaped replacement for the minimum force setting.
Project Cars 1 was the inspiration for this btw. It has 2 settings for minimum force:
"Deadzone Removal", which is the standard minimum force.
"Deadzone Removal Fall-Off", which is the curvature of the minimum force.

You raise the Removal slider until the wheel feels nice and tight. But it will either feel not fully tight or it will start shaking when you take your hands off the wheel, even on a straight.
So you then raise the Fall-Off slider until the wheel still feels nice and tight but it won't start shaking on its own.



Anyway, here's the first beta LUT for the G923 :)
You have to delete the ".txt" at the end. You can't upload .lut in threads as you might know...
 

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