Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0
- Thread starter RasmusP
- Start date
They are very wrong 
I edited your Screenshots.
Gain 100%!
Min Force 0%!
Range Compression: 100% (You can increase this later, but first let's get rid of the shaking!
Output real brake force: Do you have the Logitech pedals or are you using Loadcell pedals?
Overall effects strength: 100%!!! (lower will simply cause clipping and make the wheel weaker! More than 100% will cause clipping without making the wheel stronger. Always use 100%!)
Spring: isn't used in AC
Damper: it's only the resistance when standing still. Doesn't matter for driving at all.
I edited your Screenshots.
Gain 100%!
Min Force 0%!
Range Compression: 100% (You can increase this later, but first let's get rid of the shaking!
Output real brake force: Do you have the Logitech pedals or are you using Loadcell pedals?
Overall effects strength: 100%!!! (lower will simply cause clipping and make the wheel weaker! More than 100% will cause clipping without making the wheel stronger. Always use 100%!)
Spring: isn't used in AC
Damper: it's only the resistance when standing still. Doesn't matter for driving at all.
They are very wrong
I edited your Screenshots.
Gain 100%!
Min Force 0%!
View attachment 567379
Range Compression: 100% (You can increase this later, but first let's get rid of the shaking!
Output real brake force: Do you have the Logitech pedals or are you using Loadcell pedals?
View attachment 567380
Overall effects strength: 100%!!! (lower will simply cause clipping and make the wheel weaker! More than 100% will cause clipping without making the wheel stronger. Always use 100%!)
Spring: isn't used in AC
Damper: it's only the resistance when standing still. Doesn't matter for driving at all.
View attachment 567381
They are very wrong
I edited your Screenshots.
Gain 100%!
Min Force 0%!
View attachment 567379
Range Compression: 100% (You can increase this later, but first let's get rid of the shaking!
Output real brake force: Do you have the Logitech pedals or are you using Loadcell pedals?
View attachment 567380
Overall effects strength: 100%!!! (lower will simply cause clipping and make the wheel weaker! More than 100% will cause clipping without making the wheel stronger. Always use 100%!)
Spring: isn't used in AC
Damper: it's only the resistance when standing still. Doesn't matter for driving at all.
So what should I do with these settings?View attachment 567381
So what should I do with these settings?
They don't matter for AC.
So what should I do with these settings?
Spring doesn't make any difference at 0% or 100%.
Damper can be set to your liking. It's the resistance when you're standing still and not driving.
I personally would set it to 0%. I don't like that resistance with Logitech wheels.
yes my pedals i have logitech pedals
I wonder if I show it by broadcasting on discord? Ömerr#2498
Did you adjust all the other settings like I marked in the Screenshots?
Some vibrations are normal. But the wheel shouldn't shake left and right when driving straight.
Then disable the "real brake force" stuff in the CSP settings. It's for professional pedals, not for normal consumer pedals.
I guess it would be easier to help,
but I'd like to keep the support for my download to this forum, sorry.
I made every adjustment you said, but again the steering wheel vibrates a lot as long as I don't move.
Ah, only when you don't move. That's important and easy to fix
Open the LUT file and reduce the very first value like this:
Original:
0.00|0.100
Reduced Vibrations:
0.00|0.060
Then save and close and try it out. It should have less vibrations.
If it does not, then close the game and open the LUT file again.
Sometimes Content Manager overwrites changes...
Hello! Its me.....
Alright, been testing alot lately. Assetto corsa, not competizione. For some reason ACC is not the best way to test luts. I prefer Trueforce on that game.
But nordschleife and lut testing was fun
All three Luts have "clacks" but for some reason beta 1 feels better.
Personally i prefer the stronger one.
the biggest issue with all of them is oscillation.
Cant let go of the wheel a split second, if i do the wheel vibrates so much that the car spinns out pretty fast.
- How are the vibrations when standing still? >> yes, it ok.
- Does it feel tight and smooth while driving or >> yes but beta 1 and stonger is better, some slack
- Is the wheel shaking too much >> yes and no, cant let go of the wheel, but i also like the effect
- Not tight enough >> feels tight :O maby a little slack in all of them close to center.
With no ingame damping the oscillation is hard to tame. Idk if the luts work like that and if it is something you can fix?
Thanks for the feedback!Hello! Its me.....
Alright, been testing alot lately. Assetto corsa, not competizione. For some reason ACC is not the best way to test luts. I prefer Trueforce on that game.
But nordschleife and lut testing was fun
All three Luts have "clacks" but for some reason beta 1 feels better.
Personally i prefer the stronger one.
the biggest issue with all of them is oscillation.
Cant let go of the wheel a split second, if i do the wheel vibrates so much that the car spinns out pretty fast.
- How are the vibrations when standing still? >> yes, it ok.
- Does it feel tight and smooth while driving or >> yes but beta 1 and stonger is better, some slack
- Is the wheel shaking too much >> yes and no, cant let go of the wheel, but i also like the effect
- Not tight enough >> feels tight :O maby a little slack in all of them close to center.
With no ingame damping the oscillation is hard to tame. Idk if the luts work like that and if it is something you can fix?
It seems that you like a "super tight" wheel, which sadly always leads to oscillations. Even with high end direct drive wheels it's like that.
The issue is that in reality, both front wheels want to center themselves (due to caster) and push the steeringwheel towards the center.
So the steeringwheel gets "clamped" from both sides and gets tighter the faster you go.
But how would you simulate that with an electric motor?
It can only push into one direction, both from 2 directions towards the center.
The only way to get a similar effect would be to make it resist against movement when at the center.
Basically very high damper or friction.
The issue then would be that this damper or friction would also kill the details from the road.
High end wheels have some settings like "inertia" that can make the wheel feel heavy but still detailed.
With a Logitech wheel you sadly have to decide between smoothness and a calm center vs reactive and very tight feeling.
I would recommend to try something else, which might give a better result:
Try the G920 lut. You will have a big dead zone.
Now put the range compression from csp ffb tweaks to 300%.
This will simulate "power steering" and give a similar effect like my "stronger" lut, just more intelligent.
When I use range compression with my fanatec csw 2.5, my wheel starts shaking on straights like crazy!
So it should illiminate the dead zone and make the wheel feel a lot stronger.
The G920 lut makes the center a bit smoother without giving more force at all.
So it might work out nicely.
Or feel awful, no idea
notedThanks for the feedback!
It seems that you like a "super tight" wheel, which sadly always leads to oscillations. Even with high end direct drive wheels it's like that.
The issue is that in reality, both front wheels want to center themselves (due to caster) and push the steeringwheel towards the center.
So the steeringwheel gets "clamped" from both sides and gets tighter the faster you go.
But how would you simulate that with an electric motor?
It can only push into one direction, both from 2 directions towards the center.
The only way to get a similar effect would be to make it resist against movement when at the center.
Basically very high damper or friction.
The issue then would be that this damper or friction would also kill the details from the road.
High end wheels have some settings like "inertia" that can make the wheel feel heavy but still detailed.
With a Logitech wheel you sadly have to decide between smoothness and a calm center vs reactive and very tight feeling.
I would recommend to try something else, which might give a better result:
Try the G920 lut. You will have a big dead zone.
Now put the range compression from csp ffb tweaks to 300%.
This will simulate "power steering" and give a similar effect like my "stronger" lut, just more intelligent.
When I use range compression with my fanatec csw 2.5, my wheel starts shaking on straights like crazy!
So it should illiminate the dead zone and make the wheel feel a lot stronger.
The G920 lut makes the center a bit smoother without giving more force at all.
So it might work out nicely.
Or feel awful, no idea
don`t get me wrong, i like the luts, and will most likely use beta 1 or beta2_stronger. But any tips and advice is much appreciated! I like to learn and testAh, sadece hareket etmediğinde. Bu önemli ve düzeltilmesi kolay
LUT dosyasını açın ve ilk değeri şu şekilde azaltın:
Orijinal:
0.00|0.100
Azaltılmış Titreşimler:
0.00|0.060
Sonra kaydedip kapatın ve deneyin. Daha az titreşime sahip olmalıdır.
Olmazsa, oyunu kapatın ve LUT dosyasını tekrar açın.
Bazen İçerik Yöneticisi değişikliklerin üzerine yazar...
You said it's vibrating when standing still, now you're saying it's shaking while driving and not when standing still?
The LUT you opened with the editor is the NoClipButStronger.
Your content manager screenshot shows that you are using the "gamma like" LUT.
You need to edit the LUT that you are using to get rid of the vibrations when standing still.
To get rid of the shaking while driving, you need to reduce the gain.
@ithegoatfatheri
Hi, replying here in the thread since you can't edit your review once I reply to it and afaik only one reply is possible.
How hard do you crash when the ffb goes away?
And AC or ACC?
I've never heard or experienced the ffb going away apart from bugs.
In AC, the tyres sometimes "break" when crashing. Mostly when the car flips over or on mod tracks when there are holes in the track.
In ACC I've never experienced this yet.
Does this happen with any car and any track? Or only with mod content?
And are you using 50% gain with that lut? If you're using more than 50%, there will be a lot of clipping and the Logitech software might shut off the ffb.
Although I've never heard of this...
To test this, please use the "normal center" lut with 100% gain.
Hi, replying here in the thread since you can't edit your review once I reply to it and afaik only one reply is possible.
How hard do you crash when the ffb goes away?
And AC or ACC?
I've never heard or experienced the ffb going away apart from bugs.
In AC, the tyres sometimes "break" when crashing. Mostly when the car flips over or on mod tracks when there are holes in the track.
In ACC I've never experienced this yet.
Does this happen with any car and any track? Or only with mod content?
And are you using 50% gain with that lut? If you're using more than 50%, there will be a lot of clipping and the Logitech software might shut off the ffb.
Although I've never heard of this...
To test this, please use the "normal center" lut with 100% gain.
Hi, thanks for the reply. it was ac and i found the problem. in the documents/assetto corsa/cfg there is a file called user ff or something similar, for some reason the car i had used was logged there as 0.000 which strangely turned all ffb off unless stationary. i just deleted the file and rebooted ac through cm and it created a clean user ff file and fixed it
Hi,
glad the tagging worked
Nice to hear that you could find the issue!
The user_ff.ini is the storage for the "per-car-gain".
To change the per-car-gain while driving, you can use the plus and minus key on your numpad.
So whenever that happens again with any car, hit plus or minus on the numpad and you should see the current per-car-gain at the top-middle of your monitor.
There's also the "ff" app (default is a steering wheel icon, not sure when using CSP).
In that little HUD app, you can also change kerb/road/slip/abs while driving.
Do you have ffb-clip installed btw? I don't recommend it, but it's a nice app to monitor ffb levels.
Sometimes it can put your per-car-gain to 200% or to 0% for some reason.
Anyway, nice that it's solved for now!
If you have any further questions just ask!
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