Hi guys, the past while I was trying to find good comparisons between these two models of dd's. Has anyone tested both ? I understand that the software for these aren't complete yet but is there any clear winner here ? thanks.
What would you get if you were buying now? The R2 with one PSU or the older version from SRB with two.
It's easy enough to measure the drawn amperage if you have access to a clamp multimeter - simply put the clamp around the power cable - set it to amps and read the current on the display. You can get entry level ones for around £20 - £30 on Amazon. That ill give e you a true and comparable measurement.20Nm can snap your wrists just as well, but I've paid for 25Nm version and not sure it performs based on advertised spec after PSU change and artificial cutoff of amperage in FW for R1 owners. I didn't get any response from GD on how to verify drawn amperage or Nm as it was possible in Granity software before, but it does look like recently I need to run SC2 even at a higher gain in AC than what I used with my 20Nm Mige to get the same level of torque. I know, it's not a proof, but it does make you wonder.
And there is another anecdotal evidence.
Older version, without question. The only downside is that you'd have to ship it back to the dealer if it were to need a repair, whereas the R2 is more easily serviceable by the end user.
I don't see how I can do that to be honest, there are no exposed contacts, plus the feed comes from two PSUs.It's easy enough to measure the drawn amperage if you have access to a clamp multimeter - simply put the clamp around the power cable - set it to amps and read the current on the display. You can get entry level ones for around £20 - £30 on Amazon. That ill give e you a true and comparable measurement. View attachment 421057
Arguably better, properly rated for the job PSUs from Meanwell.What is the advantage of the R1 except for the better power button on the back?
What is the advantage of the R1 except for the better power button on the back?
You don't need exposed contacts. Ignore the two probes in the picture - they are for measuring voltages - the clamp at the top of the meter is hinged and simply goes around an insulated cable to measure the current flowing in the cable. Not sure if you could measure around two cables simultaneously (although it might work) but you could measure them individually and add them together. I think they work with magic but Wikipedia has the science.I don't see how I can do that to be honest, there are no exposed contacts, plus the feed comes from two PSUs.
Accordingly to GD they collect telemetry from users on used amperage, but when asked if user can access this data locally, went silent.
Actually - you're right. I think some of the more expensive ones can work with muticore but the cheap ones will no doubt be single core onlyWhen measuring current with a clamp you need to separate the cables and go around only the live.
Actually you can - for sure the clamp meters of many years ago only worked with AC but more modern ones (not sure quite when but since well over 10 years ago) use Hall sensors and can do an excellent job with DC.Umm, you can’t measure amperage that way for DC, only AC, even if you could isolate individual leads
That was the issue.Btw, saw you having problem mapping SC2 in AMS2. Try binding pedals first.
Yeah, try to have e-stop engaged next time before calibrating.That was the issue.
that and I had to set my wheel rotation to 450 degrees and nearly snapped my thumbs off when the FFB signal from AMS2 cut off and returned the wheel to a Sidewinder like simple spring type of FFB and it returned to center with 25*(alleged) Nm of torque...
I feel like a shill for defending this game so much early on. The FFB still feels good when it’s working but this song and dance every time Steam updates is getting old...
That is an announced change because as Granite stated, the use of same PCB/backplate in both models (sport-pro) is a step ahead.Looks like SC2 Sport got the R2 treatment. No more flip switch for power.
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