Major issue with T-LCM pedals - throttle and clutch get stuck

[MateLeLe]

Hi, I use T-LCM pedals connected via USB together with G29 wheel (i don't have a thrustmaster wheel).

The issue is that my pedals randomly "disconnect" from my PC when not only playing, but just testing them in the Calibration Software. The throttle pedal gets stuck at either 0 or 100% and there is nothing I can do. Same goes for the clutch pedal. The brake pedal remains working, though. They don't disconnect completely as the brake pedal remains working and they're visible in the Device Manager. The blue led light at the back is still there. Calibration Software stops detecting them and I have to plug them again. But it works only for a while.


But it happens over and over again.
What I did:
-changed USB ports (I tried all of them - no result)
-replaced the USB cable (they're recognised but no input)
-flashed my BIOS in case it's USB support problem (no result)
-tried different version of Windows 10 (no result)
-I took the whole PC apart and then rebuilt again (no result)

HOWEVER, I tested those pedals on 2 different computers and they worked perfectly fine. So I'm sure it's something related to my PC, but I have no idea.

Please help, I'll appreciate any kind of help. I'm about to freak out 'cause I have no idea what should I do and I can't race. I've literally tried everything.

PC:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600
MOBO MSI B450M mortar
RTX 2060
2x8 GB RAM DDR4

 

[blekenbleu]

interference seems to be with sensor, more magnetic than electrical.

Oops, I keep forgetting those Hall effect sensors;
indeed, increased distance will also confound those.

 

[pack21]

My issuea are T-LCM (PS5+TGT II) disconnection, randomly if I'm playing, and if I take a break, don't play, when i come back they're disconnected.

I've bought a lot of springs, and I've always sanded them to get off some strength. However, I noticed that i have springs where I don't have any issues during days, and those springs is where coils don't touch, when i sand them (I remove the nickel coat, so i have to increase distance between the coils.

Today I went to hardware store and brought another spring, i wish it had less force, but I didn't sand it, and voilà without any issue stress, a spring with 10 coils, closer due to nickel plating (but without touching), which this time i didn't sand.

The original springs have 10 coils, i have a spring that i sanded, and I had to stay with 7 coils to not have issues, if you hadn't sanded it and kept the nickel i could possibly have between 9 to 10 coils, that you i did today with a new spring.

For those who has the pedals open should investigate this path.

coils dont touching full pressing the pedal, look at Pic.

the hardware store, sell the spring at cm, 10cm=+- 1€

 

[pack21]

Btw, not to be 100% guaranteeing that the issue come from touching springs coil, i must say that today i did 2 more things that I had never done before.

One was to cross the shield prongs as shown in the YouTube video, i also applied electric grass.

The other is to be running without the outer shell.

I turned off all the Grounding i had in Setup too.

So, I'm still not 100% sure about the springs, without re-testing with the outer casing, or the shield prongs without touching.

You should test under the same circumstances.

 

[blekenbleu]

If the spring fully compresses,
then pressing the pedal more causes it to pivot at that spring,
instead of its designed pivot, which then lifts (along with the magnet)
away from the grounding wire and Hall sensor

 

[HarleyDavidsonfx]

Here is some boring technical PC stuff to check after you go over the obvious stuff. (cabling, thrustmaster driver etc.) A friend's 2600k system did it, and after a Ryzen upgrade still did it.

This is could be a Windows problem, probably related to a device timing out due to a stuck I/O, which is a problem of Windows that has been addressed by improving asynchronous support and isolation, but still very much happens. Yes even on Intel.

On top of that, USB power management can cause this to happen. If you disabled USB power down it might stop. This fixed my friends system. If the USB problems persist, AMD then recommends the motherboard’s PCIe settings be toggled down from PCIe 4.0 to the slower 3.0 interface. The company also suggests turning off the motherboard’s global C-State function, which is used for power-saving purposes.

the guidance from AMD

1. Verify motherboard bios latest.

2. Verify using latest version windows 10.

3.Verify your Ryzen chipset driver from AMD is installed and up to date. The latest one I saw to address the issue was driver version 2.13.27.501 There could be a newer one..

 

[pack21]

If the spring fully compresses,
then pressing the pedal more causes it to pivot at that spring,
instead of its designed pivot, which then lifts (along with the magnet)
away from the grounding wire and Hall sensor

I didn't understand your reasoning, if you can explain better, appreciated.

My theory is that the original spring is too soft, and it can't maintain the same shape evenly every time we press the pedal. Underneath the pedal there is a rubber stopper, and I think it loses permanent thickness with use, which causes the pedal to drop 1-2mm causing the spring coils to touch, which causes some magnetic interference with the magnetic sensor.

For those who still have the original throttle spring, i proposed to see the state of this rubber stopper, and do as i did, i filled it with adhesive tape.

Today I had a fantastic night, several races without a single issue , when before with springs coils touching before it was always random, after 30-60 minutes of racing.

@HarleyDavidsonfx i and much others with this issues, are on PS4/5, so is not a matter of PC.

rubber stopper im talking, and mine with tape on it to fill up, 2mm

 

[blekenbleu]

if you can explain better

Suppose the pedal is an L,
where your foot pushes on the upright leg
and it normally pivots at the corner,
with spring below the far end of the horizontal leg.
When the spring bottoms, and your foot continues pushing,
then the L begins pivoting around that far end,
lifting the intended pivot at the corner
away from its ground wire and Hall sensor.

Bottom line: throttle and clutch pivots are not
designed for forces that you want to apply..

 

[pack21]

Today i bought another spring (1€) softer than the previous one, what is great for me, i bougt with 10 coils, but they hit each other, I cut 1 coil so they wouldn't touch each other when i full compressed the pedal, and it's been another fantastic night, without any scares.

In the next few days, i will put the outer shell of T-LCM back to confirm, also have the Shield prongs crossed, only after testing with outrr shell, i will move away the prongs to check if was that the medicine.

The next step will be to sand the springs, but this time paying attention to the distance between the coils when compressed on the pedal.

btw, the springs diameter doesn't have to be the same as the original ones 1,7cm , it can be wider springs, i have too 2-2,1cm springs working great.

 

[maelstrom]

I’ve got the T-LCM pedals and have never had a problem with them. I’m curious to know if those people with issues use the pedals plugged directly into a USB port. I have mine plugged into the RJ12 socket on my TM wheelbase. Whilst the sample rate is supposedly higher with a USB connection, I tried both options and I wasn’t able to detect any difference in sensitivity between the two so opted for the solution which only uses one USB cable from my rig to my PC. Problems associated with USB devices (particularly intermittent ones) can sometimes be very difficult to diagnose and are often wrongly attributed to the hardware plugged into the port rather than the port itself or the OS. I’m not suggesting that this is necessarily the case here but it is food for thought.

 

[3x0t1C]

I have that electric grease and it didn't work.

My problems started when the throttle spring broke. But i have no issues with the clutch spring, but with springs i buy from a hardware store i have.

After many trials, errors and observations, i suspect that the spring coils cannot touch each other when full compressed (must make some kind of magnetic interference with sensor when they come together) , the original clutch coils spring does not touch full compressed, the original accelerator coils spring does not touch either. With use, the accelerator spring becomes more bent and coils starts to touch, and depending on the shoe, it can also make the coils touch more or less.

As soon as i started cutting some coils and stretching the springs i bought at the hardware store, so that there is a spacing between the coils when full compressed, had no more issues.View attachment 577206View attachment 577256

I know it might be a bit expensive, but if your original springs broke, please buy originals from Thrustmaster, I ordered like 3 clutch springs from them, each spring is 7 euro, yea I know its expensive but well you don't break a spring everyday and the clutch springs are very very durable, only the throttle spring is garbage its too soft.
In my case the clutch spring felt very very tough at first, but now I am so happy using it my foot adapted to the strength and it's great.

My advise is use 2 Clutch springs instead of throttle spring, it's too weak and it bends, over time I couldn't even feel resistance my foot was pushing the pedal all the way down even when resting on it, I thought I broke the spring, but I actually bent it, so yea.. clutch springs all the way guys.

And as I said in my "personal" experience I only drive with socks now, I need some money to buy good racing shoes with leather underneath, because all my shoes have rubber and every time I use shoes I get static electricity buildup and EMI kicks in my pedals start to get stuck clutch or throttle etc.

 

[pack21]

I know it might be a bit expensive, but if your original springs broke, please buy originals from Thrustmaster, I ordered like 3 clutch springs from them, each spring is 7 euro, yea I know its expensive but well you don't break a spring everyday and the clutch springs are very very durable, only the throttle spring is garbage its too soft.
In my case the clutch spring felt very very tough at first, but now I am so happy using it my foot adapted to the strength and it's great.

My advise is use 2 Clutch springs instead of throttle spring, it's too weak and it bends, over time I couldn't even feel resistance my foot was pushing the pedal all the way down even when resting on it, I thought I broke the spring, but I actually bent it, so yea.. clutch springs all the way guys.

And as I said in my "personal" experience I only drive with socks now, I need some money to buy good racing shoes with leather underneath, because all my shoes have rubber and every time I use shoes I get static electricity buildup and EMI kicks in my pedals start to get stuck clutch or throttle etc.

I understand, but i prefer to be able to choose the spring that best suits my foot and racing style.

I have them marked by level of smoothness, and in long runs it is possible to feel which ones I like the most.

 

[3x0t1C]

I understand, but i prefer to be able to choose the spring that best suits my foot and racing style.

I have them marked by level of smoothness, and in long runs it is possible to feel which ones I like the most.View attachment 578513

Love the colletion mate it's a great idea to have some many springs and washers to test out till finding perfect match.

I got lost so many new posts on the thread it got alive I guess haha after me and Paul, I hope you fixed the disconnecting issue. I posted back on this topic a response on how to fix the disconnecting it's regarding windows powering etc not sure exactly, cuz I write big essays here, but you might check it, if you haven't fixed it.

Thanks for sharing ideas and thoughts on the pedals it's very useful!

 

[Phat_Ho]

Wouldn't recommend these pedals too anyone , not happy with mine, the gas spring was almost bent in half like it was going too break some time soon, swapped spring with the clutch spring, was kinda stiff but has softened up alot. The break pedal has alot of movement from side too side which was excarberated by having the plate screwed too the left than centre. sorry if i'm off topic .

I honestly believe also it depends what shoes you wear, If the shoes have leather on the bottom instead of rubber, in my case they were rubber and I think they started causing insane static energy build up. I drive with socks from now on and I have 0 and I mean absolutely 0 problem anymore.

I am not sure, if I will jump into grounding them, I might try maybe racing shoes or something expensive without rubber on the bottom, so I can feel the pedals again and also avoid a lot of static energy and if that happens again, I guess "blekenbleu" method sounds great to try out.

I hope I helped at least a bit with all my spam on the topic I wanted to keep everyone informed of my finding and Paul did amazing job as well, as everyone else who shared info we literally figured out the problem ourselves, Thrustmaster or any other support I've seen so far (Logitech/Thrustmaster) they are helping, but only to a very basic issue, they can't fix or figure out EMI issue for ya and yea you are kinda on your own sadly . God bless the sim racing community.

You drive with socks?? Isn't that like the worst for Static build up )

 

[Ho3n3r]

Dear Metelele please check to PDF file. it happens coz, Firmware lost and you need to request "TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf" file from Thrustmaster support. if you share your e-mail also I can send you. I could not attach here coz file system.
with my best regards

Hi Mustafa. Thank you for writing the guide for doing the firmware update. Sadly, it didn't go right for me. I will copy/paste my message from another forum here, and hope somebody can help me get my pedals working again.

Scenario: Basically, there is a scenario with these pedals where the throttle input bar gets stuck more and more the longer you play - if you unplug it, it is at 0.0% again, but then it gets gradually worse again after a few hours.

I've been coping with it for the last year or so by setting the deadzone, but every now and then I had to increase the deadzone on throttle, and when it got to about 5% deadzone I decided to try and see if I can do something about it.

Then I found a solution which has worked for a few people - see links:

(removed link to AC1 forum)

which leads to

(removed link to Reiza forum - link leads to solution posted by yourself).

As I am very pedantic with these things, I followed the instructions in the file to a tee. However, what is occurring now, is:

1. I start it in bootloader mode after plugging in the pedals after restarting my PC. I open up the firmware updater, and it shows both the Device firmware and the Firmware that will be installed just below it.
2. I click OK, and it completes the 2. DFU Firmware update. Then it tells me my pedals have been successfully updated, and asks me to unplug them, and plug them in again in normal mode. I do this.
3. The 3. Final Check part never happens. It just hangs there, never doing anything. If I close the firmware updater, nothing changes either.
   

I must've done this and variations of it 30 times now. Thrustmaster Support has been non-responsive, I was on live chat eventually after they didn't respond in 2 days. Guy told me he will be sending me questions before he can do anything - which haven't been forthcoming as of yet.

What is odd, is that, if I plug it in in normal mode, it gets seen in Windows 10's USB Controllers, but if I click on Properties, all axes are stuck on 0 position, and won't budge.

Also, TM Sim Pedals Calibration tool 2.15 doesn't recognise it at all, either in bootloader or normal mode - the window just says "Please plug in a device".


Things I have tried:

- Trying different versions of the Thrustmaster Firmware Updater (both 3.6.2 as per the instruction document, and 4.0.10, which is the latest version).

- Uninstalling the driver completely, and removing all remnants of the drivers and the Guillemot folder, and reinstalling different versions of the Thrustmaster drivers from scratch.

- Trying to get it working without any Thrustmaster drivers whatsoever.

I am at my wit's end with this, and with Thrustmaster themselves being quite unwilling to help, I do not really know where to go from here.

Thanks in advance.

 

[3x0t1C]

Hi Mustafa. Thank you for writing the guide for doing the firmware update. Sadly, it didn't go right for me. I will copy/paste my message from another forum here, and hope somebody can help me get my pedals working again.

Scenario: Basically, there is a scenario with these pedals where the throttle input bar gets stuck more and more the longer you play - if you unplug it, it is at 0.0% again, but then it gets gradually worse again after a few hours.

I've been coping with it for the last year or so by setting the deadzone, but every now and then I had to increase the deadzone on throttle, and when it got to about 5% deadzone I decided to try and see if I can do something about it.

Then I found a solution which has worked for a few people - see links:

(removed link to AC1 forum)

which leads to

(removed link to Reiza forum - link leads to solution posted by yourself).

As I am very pedantic with these things, I followed the instructions in the file to a tee. However, what is occurring now, is:

1. I start it in bootloader mode after plugging in the pedals after restarting my PC. I open up the firmware updater, and it shows both the Device firmware and the Firmware that will be installed just below it.
2. I click OK, and it completes the 2. DFU Firmware update. Then it tells me my pedals have been successfully updated, and asks me to unplug them, and plug them in again in normal mode. I do this.
3. The 3. Final Check part never happens. It just hangs there, never doing anything. If I close the firmware updater, nothing changes either.

I must've done this and variations of it 30 times now. Thrustmaster Support has been non-responsive, I was on live chat eventually after they didn't respond in 2 days. Guy told me he will be sending me questions before he can do anything - which haven't been forthcoming as of yet.

What is odd, is that, if I plug it in in normal mode, it gets seen in Windows 10's USB Controllers, but if I click on Properties, all axes are stuck on 0 position, and won't budge.

Also, TM Sim Pedals Calibration tool 2.15 doesn't recognise it at all, either in bootloader or normal mode - the window just says "Please plug in a device".


Things I have tried:

- Trying different versions of the Thrustmaster Firmware Updater (both 3.6.2 as per the instruction document, and 4.0.10, which is the latest version).

- Uninstalling the driver completely, and removing all remnants of the drivers and the Guillemot folder, and reinstalling different versions of the Thrustmaster drivers from scratch.

- Trying to get it working without any Thrustmaster drivers whatsoever.

I am at my wit's end with this, and with Thrustmaster themselves being quite unwilling to help, I do not really know where to go from here.

Thanks in advance.

Hi mate, now I have been advised heavily from Thrustmaster support to avoid using Mustafa's guide, I've shared a lot to them from this topic here at least the most important stuff.

As you prolly screwed the drivers of the T-LCM's my best advice is to open a ticket in their own website, so they can review the issue and select technical issue, then wait for them to review and email you. For me it took about a week, then my issue was sent to a technical team to advise etc.

ATM I absolutely countered the EMI issue, which is from all the months of information. I've found that there is a static energy buildup inside the pedals itself, whenever I drive with shoes, so from then on I started driving with socks only and you can see that on my Youtube channel.

All my driving videos are now with socks. My advice will be, if you get them working again. Buy the Thrustmaster thingies paddies or whatever it is that you put on the pedals, so the pedals will not cut your socks, they are a bit sharp, which started happening in my case.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXs2GnhaH0tLh3afBzEjrig

 

[3x0t1C]

Hi Mustafa. Thank you for writing the guide for doing the firmware update. Sadly, it didn't go right for me. I will copy/paste my message from another forum here, and hope somebody can help me get my pedals working again.

Scenario: Basically, there is a scenario with these pedals where the throttle input bar gets stuck more and more the longer you play - if you unplug it, it is at 0.0% again, but then it gets gradually worse again after a few hours.

I've been coping with it for the last year or so by setting the deadzone, but every now and then I had to increase the deadzone on throttle, and when it got to about 5% deadzone I decided to try and see if I can do something about it.

Then I found a solution which has worked for a few people - see links:

(removed link to AC1 forum)

which leads to

(removed link to Reiza forum - link leads to solution posted by yourself).

As I am very pedantic with these things, I followed the instructions in the file to a tee. However, what is occurring now, is:

1. I start it in bootloader mode after plugging in the pedals after restarting my PC. I open up the firmware updater, and it shows both the Device firmware and the Firmware that will be installed just below it.
2. I click OK, and it completes the 2. DFU Firmware update. Then it tells me my pedals have been successfully updated, and asks me to unplug them, and plug them in again in normal mode. I do this.
3. The 3. Final Check part never happens. It just hangs there, never doing anything. If I close the firmware updater, nothing changes either.

I must've done this and variations of it 30 times now. Thrustmaster Support has been non-responsive, I was on live chat eventually after they didn't respond in 2 days. Guy told me he will be sending me questions before he can do anything - which haven't been forthcoming as of yet.

What is odd, is that, if I plug it in in normal mode, it gets seen in Windows 10's USB Controllers, but if I click on Properties, all axes are stuck on 0 position, and won't budge.

Also, TM Sim Pedals Calibration tool 2.15 doesn't recognise it at all, either in bootloader or normal mode - the window just says "Please plug in a device".


Things I have tried:

- Trying different versions of the Thrustmaster Firmware Updater (both 3.6.2 as per the instruction document, and 4.0.10, which is the latest version).

- Uninstalling the driver completely, and removing all remnants of the drivers and the Guillemot folder, and reinstalling different versions of the Thrustmaster drivers from scratch.

- Trying to get it working without any Thrustmaster drivers whatsoever.

I am at my wit's end with this, and with Thrustmaster themselves being quite unwilling to help, I do not really know where to go from here.

Thanks in advance.

Your best bet is to explain to TM staff, when they reach you or with your initial problem that you have used Mustafa's guide and screwed up the pedals drivers, so they can send you the firmware perhaps?!? And that's that I guess or hope it goes that way.

 

[Ho3n3r]

Hi mate, now I have been advised heavily from Thrustmaster support to avoid using Mustafa's guide, I've shared a lot to them from this topic here at least the most important stuff.

As you prolly screwed the drivers of the T-LCM's my best advice is to open a ticket in their own website, so they can review the issue and select technical issue, then wait for them to review and email you. For me it took about a week, then my issue was sent to a technical team to advise etc.

ATM I absolutely countered the EMI issue, which is from all the months of information. I've found that there is a static energy buildup inside the pedals itself, whenever I drive with shoes, so from then on I started driving with socks only and you can see that on my Youtube channel.

All my driving videos are now with socks. My advice will be, if you get them working again. Buy the Thrustmaster thingies paddies or whatever it is that you put on the pedals, so the pedals will not cut your socks, they are a bit sharp, which started happening in my case.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXs2GnhaH0tLh3afBzEjrig

Thanks. As I said above, I have already contacted them and spoken on live support since Monday, but no fixes yet - they are really slow.

Also, Mustafa got the file and procedure from Thrustmaster themselves - even the manual on how to do it, so I don't think it was his fault.

It also worked for everyone who has tried it, I haven't seen anyone with this issue. My question is, why did it work for others but not for me?

I made my post in the hope that somebody here has already encountered this and got it fixed somehow, because I don't have weeks to wait for Thrustmaster to wake up.

 

[3x0t1C]

Thanks. As I said above, I have already contacted them and spoken on live support since Monday, but no fixes yet - they are really slow.

Also, Mustafa got the file and procedure from Thrustmaster themselves - even the manual on how to do it, so I don't think it was his fault.

It also worked for everyone who has tried it, I haven't seen anyone with this issue. My question is, why did it work for others but not for me?

I made my post in the hope that somebody here has already encountered this and got it fixed somehow, because I don't have weeks to wait for Thrustmaster to wake up.

I think you should've read the whole topic, I know it will ltierally take an hour, because it is long.

Let me explain, it worked for them, because Thrustmaster specifically also asked me about the T-LCM number behind. There are old produced T-LCM's which also didn't had the side plastic on the sides for throttle and clutch pedals, also old software right. So if you got the NEW ones and installed that old software or old fix, guess what right haha. The Thrustmaster support also advised heavily against it, because my model was the new one and for a reason that guide was deleted from their own website, because it is outdated.

My advice to contact them is not "livechat", because I worked for 3.5 years now as a customer service and close to 6 years in call centers and client or customer service.

The livechat support can only ONLY help you with basic troubleshooting.

To get into better help and through people who can pay more attention, please open a ticket via their system.

If you have done that, then sorry the best I could advise you is this.

 

[Federico Testa]

I can say i think i solved my issues with my pedals. It looks like my PC case was the culprit.
As soon i start it now i discharge current with the usb cable on my radiator (it sparkles).
After doing that no more problems occurred.
Hope it helps

 

[apex29]

Dear Metelele please check to PDF file. it happens coz, Firmware lost and you need to request "TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf" file from Thrustmaster support. if you share your e-mail also I can send you. I could not attach here coz file system.
with my best regards

I sent you a message with my email. Could you please send me the file? TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf