Major issue with T-LCM pedals - throttle and clutch get stuck

[MateLeLe]

Hi, I use T-LCM pedals connected via USB together with G29 wheel (i don't have a thrustmaster wheel).

The issue is that my pedals randomly "disconnect" from my PC when not only playing, but just testing them in the Calibration Software. The throttle pedal gets stuck at either 0 or 100% and there is nothing I can do. Same goes for the clutch pedal. The brake pedal remains working, though. They don't disconnect completely as the brake pedal remains working and they're visible in the Device Manager. The blue led light at the back is still there. Calibration Software stops detecting them and I have to plug them again. But it works only for a while.


But it happens over and over again.
What I did:
-changed USB ports (I tried all of them - no result)
-replaced the USB cable (they're recognised but no input)
-flashed my BIOS in case it's USB support problem (no result)
-tried different version of Windows 10 (no result)
-I took the whole PC apart and then rebuilt again (no result)

HOWEVER, I tested those pedals on 2 different computers and they worked perfectly fine. So I'm sure it's something related to my PC, but I have no idea.

Please help, I'll appreciate any kind of help. I'm about to freak out 'cause I have no idea what should I do and I can't race. I've literally tried everything.

PC:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600
MOBO MSI B450M mortar
RTX 2060
2x8 GB RAM DDR4

 

[Paul Harwood]

Well here it is the final messages between me and Thrustmaster support after on going 2 months back and forth.

Hi all,

Sorry for the delay in reply. Well, I did follow Mustafa's boot loader procedure and it has improved things for me. I have had only 2 minor relapses since doing the boot loader operation (April 29). By minor, I mean that after a reset, the issue did not come back for a week or so at least. This is racing Assetto Corsa. I have not raced GPL since the fix, but I will be racing GPL this week.

3xot1c's emails with TM support are very interesting. Opening the pedals to check for obstructions or other issue is interesting as is the notion of running the pedals USB. Question is: Is this also for users of TM wheelbases like my T 300?

Also interesting is the new or old versions of the T-LCM's ... which means that not all T LCM owners will use the same fix ... ?? OK. I could see that. It would be nice to know what the differences are between the old and the new pedals ...

Since applying Mustafa's fix, I have had the USB controller order flipping issue return. So I always have to check that the wheelbase is #1 controller. I sometimes have to try all the USB ports to get the wheel to be #1. There does not seem to be any pattern to when the USB order will switch. It happens every now and then.

I am still connecting the pedals with the RJ12 connector to the wheelbase.

With the boot loader fix, I now have an extra file in a folder and the 'touching the pedal face with a metal rod' to reset the throttle sensor, no longer works! So the boot loader fix did change things.

I will report on my testing with GPL.

PH

​

 

[3x0t1C]

Hi all,

Sorry for the delay in reply. Well, I did follow Mustafa's boot loader procedure and it has improved things for me. I have had only 2 minor relapses since doing the boot loader operation (April 29). By minor, I mean that after a reset, the issue did not come back for a week or so at least. This is racing Assetto Corsa. I have not raced GPL since the fix, but I will be racing GPL this week.

3xot1c's emails with TM support are very interesting. Opening the pedals to check for obstructions or other issue is interesting as is the notion of running the pedals USB. Question is: Is this also for users of TM wheelbases like my T 300?

Also interesting is the new or old versions of the T-LCM's ... which means that not all T LCM owners will use the same fix ... ?? OK. I could see that. It would be nice to know what the differences are between the old and the new pedals ...

Since applying Mustafa's fix, I have had the USB controller order flipping issue return. So I always have to check that the wheelbase is #1 controller. I sometimes have to try all the USB ports to get the wheel to be #1. There does not seem to be any pattern to when the USB order will switch. It happens every now and then.

I am still connecting the pedals with the RJ12 connector to the wheelbase.

With the boot loader fix, I now have an extra file in a folder and the 'touching the pedal face with a metal rod' to reset the throttle sensor, no longer works! So the boot loader fix did change things.

I will report on my testing with GPL.

PH

​

Could you please provide the file he used or you did reset them without the file?
I am honestly super gutted regarding this problem, I can't even trust my pedals to record content for anything and I need in literally worse case scenario at least this crap to appear in 2 weeks, I drive and drift every single day, but this is happening literally multiple times a day during session for example today 5-6 times I reconnected the pedals absolute nightmare.

Your updates and posts have been great help, as TM support seems to have no exact help on the matter.

If you could assist on the reboot thing with the file I might try it out myself and see, if it will help.

Also can it be done without the file like just a basic reboot?

 

[Paul Harwood]

I PM'd you about the file.

The ""TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf"" file addition and the button-press-USB re-pairing operation are the 2 steps I did.

It seems to have helped. But I did get 2 relapses which reset easily enough but I am hoping to get to zero throttle issues because that's what is needed for any decent racing especially online league racing.

What type of wheel, shifter and pedals is everyone who are having the issue using? This is important.

I am racing a T 300 wheelbase and T H8A shifter with the T LCM pedals which are about 18 months old . I connect the pedals to the wheelbase via the RJ12 cable.

So I will keep testing. I did a few laps last night in Assetto Corsa online and GPL offline and had no throttle issues.

PH

 

[3x0t1C]

I PM'd you about the file.

The ""TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf"" file addition and the button-press-USB re-pairing operation are the 2 steps I did.

It seems to have helped. But I did get 2 relapses which reset easily enough but I am hoping to get to zero throttle issues because that's what is needed for any decent racing especially online league racing.

What type of wheel, shifter and pedals is everyone who are having the issue using? This is important.

I am racing a T 300 wheelbase and T H8A shifter with the T LCM pedals which are about 18 months old . I connect the pedals to the wheelbase via the RJ12 cable.

So I will keep testing. I did a few laps last night in Assetto Corsa online and GPL offline and had no throttle issues.

PH

My problem is that either my Clutch or Throttle get stuck at completely random percentages %, yesterday multiple on 0 or 100, then some at like 40ish % then clutch at 0% again.
My setup:
Thrustmaster TS-XW base + 3d adapter + aftermarket OMP Wheel
Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals
Thrustmaster shifter TH8A
Thrustmaster Sparco Mod Handbrake ofc since I drift mainly
Triple monitors Acer - XF270H, 27", 144Hz, 1ms,

Basically I don't know whats causing the EMI, I am a bit sketchy about the pedal reset, if it's gonna **** up other things like Thrustmaster said that this was an old fix and they advised against it, so I have no clue how to deal with the clutch/throttle stuck issue.

It's always the pedals that cause problems and I am getting enough of that seriously, but I do not have money to replace them and they are freaking NEW just a few months.

It's so sad.

 

[3x0t1C]

I PM'd you about the file.

The ""TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf"" file addition and the button-press-USB re-pairing operation are the 2 steps I did.

It seems to have helped. But I did get 2 relapses which reset easily enough but I am hoping to get to zero throttle issues because that's what is needed for any decent racing especially online league racing.

What type of wheel, shifter and pedals is everyone who are having the issue using? This is important.

I am racing a T 300 wheelbase and T H8A shifter with the T LCM pedals which are about 18 months old . I connect the pedals to the wheelbase via the RJ12 cable.

So I will keep testing. I did a few laps last night in Assetto Corsa online and GPL offline and had no throttle issues.

PH

I will try researching more and if nothing helps might go for Mustafa's method hope I find anything.

 

[Paul Harwood]

I will try researching more and if nothing helps might go for Mustafa's method hope I find anything.

There are big differences between the firmware versions between the TS XW and the T 300 but the latest firmware versions are all supposed to handle connecting pedals via an RJ12 cable. Are you currently connected like this also?

Do you have the latest TS XW firmware?

Also, are your pedals mounted on something?

Cheers.

PH

 

[3x0t1C]

There are big differences between the firmware versions between the TS XW and the T 300 but the latest firmware versions are all supposed to handle connecting pedals via an RJ12 cable. Are you currently connected like this also?

Do you have the latest TS XW firmware?

Also, are your pedals mounted on something?

Cheers.

PH

Yes before 1 month I updated the firmware to version 8, but as Thrustmaster "advised" I swapped to USB cable which made the things even worse lol, and yes I use the T-Pedal Stand.
Do you think the Pedal Stand could be causing any sort of EMI? It is laying on a Laminate floor.

 

[3x0t1C]

There are big differences between the firmware versions between the TS XW and the T 300 but the latest firmware versions are all supposed to handle connecting pedals via an RJ12 cable. Are you currently connected like this also?

Do you have the latest TS XW firmware?

Also, are your pedals mounted on something?

Cheers.

PH

So funny that I know started learning more and keep reading about EMI and how to reduce in general and what to use for cables ended up learning about ferrite cores and guess guess what, they do have freakin ferrite cores at least the USB Cable I haven't pulled the rj12 out to see.
This ONLY leads me to one fix and that is grounding, but how can I ground the T-LCM pedals? I don't know where to put the grounding on lol

 

[3x0t1C]

There are big differences between the firmware versions between the TS XW and the T 300 but the latest firmware versions are all supposed to handle connecting pedals via an RJ12 cable. Are you currently connected like this also?

Do you have the latest TS XW firmware?

Also, are your pedals mounted on something?

Cheers.

PH

Have you tried grounding your pedals instead of cable routing and stuff, since wood and etc cause more EMI, if grounded it will kill any static electricity, but I am not really sure how to ground so far, so I will continue reading and so on.
Let me know, if you have any success.

 

[3x0t1C]

Btw check this discussion out, it might help you get a new eyes on the problem too.
I'm literally digging the **** out of youtube or forums to find and yea boy.
The problem is grounding, the T-LCM usb cable has ferrite cores, but im not sure if I should go first buy ferrite cores and literally ground all my electrical outlet ****, because it is literally almost everything here not grounded no ferrites, so I might bet my money on this first and if this doesn't fix it next salary I will go for some full grounding method still no clue how, but imma go for that too its still cheaper than new pedals lol.

 

[blekenbleu]

literally ground all my electrical outlet

Any decent USB cable should be providing a good ground between the wheel base and PC.
If you do not already own a multimeter, get one and learn how to use it; they are cheap and easy.
If there is not good continuity between PC metal and wheelbase metal, then fix that.
Then, if there is not good continuity between wheelbase metal and pedals, fix that.
Running a wire directly from e.g. pedals to wall outlet can make things worse AKA ground loop.
Many PCs include EMI filtering which in fact injects current back into power ground;
you would not want that rerouted via pedals...
Shield continuity between PC and wheelbase, then wheelbase and pedals.
Problems could be provoked by something else feeding energy into pedals
e.g. via metal chassis.

 

[3x0t1C]

Any decent USB cable should be providing a good ground between the wheel base and PC.
If you do not already own a multimeter, get one and learn how to use it; they are cheap and easy.
If there is not good continuity between PC metal and wheelbase metal, then fix that.
Then, if there is not good continuity between wheelbase metal and pedals, fix that.
Running a wire directly from e.g. pedals to wall outlet can make things worse AKA ground loop.
Many PCs include EMI filtering which in fact injects current back into power ground;
you would not want that rerouted via pedals...
Shield continuity between PC and wheelbase, then wheelbase and pedals.
Problems could be provoked by something else feeding energy into pedals
e.g. via metal chassis.

Hi mate,
Thanks a lot for sharing that, my base is on a wooden standup desk, my pedals are on laminate floor.
I will defo buy a multimeter.

 

[3x0t1C]

Any decent USB cable should be providing a good ground between the wheel base and PC.
If you do not already own a multimeter, get one and learn how to use it; they are cheap and easy.
If there is not good continuity between PC metal and wheelbase metal, then fix that.
Then, if there is not good continuity between wheelbase metal and pedals, fix that.
Running a wire directly from e.g. pedals to wall outlet can make things worse AKA ground loop.
Many PCs include EMI filtering which in fact injects current back into power ground;
you would not want that rerouted via pedals...
Shield continuity between PC and wheelbase, then wheelbase and pedals.
Problems could be provoked by something else feeding energy into pedals
e.g. via metal chassis.

I use the Thrustmaster

Any decent USB cable should be providing a good ground between the wheel base and PC.
If you do not already own a multimeter, get one and learn how to use it; they are cheap and easy.
If there is not good continuity between PC metal and wheelbase metal, then fix that.
Then, if there is not good continuity between wheelbase metal and pedals, fix that.
Running a wire directly from e.g. pedals to wall outlet can make things worse AKA ground loop.
Many PCs include EMI filtering which in fact injects current back into power ground;
you would not want that rerouted via pedals...
Shield continuity between PC and wheelbase, then wheelbase and pedals.
Problems could be provoked by something else feeding energy into pedals
e.g. via metal chassis.

My pedals are on a laminate floor, I also found that one of my usb hubs on the desk, when I connect it to the PC it made things worse, do you think is a good idea to put ferrite beads and basically ground my electrical outlet on the desk first and see, if some of the stuff is causing the problems?

 

[Paul Harwood]

I use the Thrustmaster

My pedals are on a laminate floor, I also found that one of my usb hubs on the desk, when I connect it to the PC it made things worse, do you think is a good idea to put ferrite beads and basically ground my electrical outlet on the desk first and see, if some of the stuff is causing the problems?

I use the Thrustmaster

My pedals are on a laminate floor, I also found that one of my usb hubs on the desk, when I connect it to the PC it made things worse, do you think is a good idea to put ferrite beads and basically ground my electrical outlet on the desk first and see, if some of the stuff is causing the problems?

But the pedals are mounted on that sub-frame?

 

[Paul Harwood]

Have you tried grounding your pedals instead of cable routing and stuff, since wood and etc cause more EMI, if grounded it will kill any static electricity, but I am not really sure how to ground so far, so I will continue reading and so on.
Let me know, if you have any success.

I did try grounding the throttle pedal by running a wire from the pedal itself to the computer chassis. But it made the throttle issues worse. Same with just running a wire from pedal and not attached to anything on other end. I realize that it would probably be better to ground the whole pedal board or its circuit boards but I have no idea where to connect on the pedal board side to do this.

 

[Paul Harwood]

GPL testing and online races (Using H pattern shifting and all 3 pedals) went well. No issues. I will test and race with Assetto Corsa (Using paddle shifting and mostly 2 pedals) this weekend. Will report.

 

[3x0t1C]

GPL testing and online races (Using H pattern shifting and all 3 pedals) went well. No issues. I will test and race with Assetto Corsa (Using paddle shifting and mostly 2 pedals) this weekend. Will report.

Hi Paul,

Yes the pedals are mounted on the frame, if im not mistaken it's alluminum and I honestly read a lot of other forums I will link 1 that is really interesting so you can check it out.

But before grounding I think I will try to literally put ferrite beads as you also mentioned earlier and ground all my electrical outlet usb hubs whatever cables I see.

I saw one of my hubs caused **** ton of problems and they increased, as I plugged it on my PC, so I am defo grounding that shithub.

 

[3x0t1C]

Interesting discussion here:

T-lcm accelerator sticking at 100%

Hi all I’m new to sim racing and have recently purchased a thrustmaster t-gt 2 and t-lcm pedals on ps5, I updated all firmware etc and after 2 weeks I’m now getting the accelerator pedal sticking randomly at 100% on gt sport . The only remedy is to disconnect and reconnect pedals or connect...

www.gtplanet.net

and Here:

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/shield-pedal-cables-from-emi.189671/

 

[Paul Harwood]

Hi Paul,

Yes the pedals are mounted on the frame, if im not mistaken it's alluminum and I honestly read a lot of other forums I will link 1 that is really interesting so you can check it out.

But before grounding I think I will try to literally put ferrite beads as you also mentioned earlier and ground all my electrical outlet usb hubs whatever cables I see.

I saw one of my hubs caused **** ton of problems and they increased, as I plugged it on my PC, so I am defo grounding that shithub.

I was asking about the pedals being mounted because I started having problems with the throttle after I mounted the pedals on a wooden board. One of the M6 bolts goes right in front of the throttle pedal so I have been wondering if there might be some sparks flying between the throttle pedal circuit board and that M6 bolt.

Anyway, what its looking like to me is that there are different rig materials combined with different wiring setups, so it may be that we are all looking for the fix that will work for our particular setups. So ferrite cores may work for some cases and grounding may solve other racers' throttle woes.

I will keep testing and if the issue comes back I will try the options I mentioned in earlier posts like connecting via USB and opening the pedals for a look at everything in there.

See my latest reply about how this week's racing went.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

GPL testing and online races (Using H pattern shifting and all 3 pedals) went well. No issues. I will test and race with Assetto Corsa (Using paddle shifting and mostly 2 pedals) this weekend. Will report.

Assetto Corsa online racing using the Ferrari add-on rim and paddle shifting went well. No throttle issues whatsoever.

So, since I followed Mustafa's fix I am having long stretches of problem-free racing. Lets see how it lasts.

PH