Major issue with T-LCM pedals - throttle and clutch get stuck

[MateLeLe]

Hi, I use T-LCM pedals connected via USB together with G29 wheel (i don't have a thrustmaster wheel).

The issue is that my pedals randomly "disconnect" from my PC when not only playing, but just testing them in the Calibration Software. The throttle pedal gets stuck at either 0 or 100% and there is nothing I can do. Same goes for the clutch pedal. The brake pedal remains working, though. They don't disconnect completely as the brake pedal remains working and they're visible in the Device Manager. The blue led light at the back is still there. Calibration Software stops detecting them and I have to plug them again. But it works only for a while.


But it happens over and over again.
What I did:
-changed USB ports (I tried all of them - no result)
-replaced the USB cable (they're recognised but no input)
-flashed my BIOS in case it's USB support problem (no result)
-tried different version of Windows 10 (no result)
-I took the whole PC apart and then rebuilt again (no result)

HOWEVER, I tested those pedals on 2 different computers and they worked perfectly fine. So I'm sure it's something related to my PC, but I have no idea.

Please help, I'll appreciate any kind of help. I'm about to freak out 'cause I have no idea what should I do and I can't race. I've literally tried everything.

PC:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600
MOBO MSI B450M mortar
RTX 2060
2x8 GB RAM DDR4

 

[Haaasie]

Completed several races now without throttle sticking, I should have noticed when the sound of the pedal hitting the bump stop changed, that will have been when the rubber stopper became detached.

i just fixed mine cleaned the inside of the paddles all fine now

 

[Stefan Roess]

I have the same problem.
Paul Harwood and others, did you find a solution?

 

[Paul Harwood]

I have the same problem.
Paul Harwood and others, did you find a solution?

I had to try several things. Update the T-300 wheelbase firmware and then try to eliminate any EM interference mostly by spacing the USB and power cables as far apart as possible. I also got a file from Mustafa.

But I have a new computer now and have not had the issue with this new system.

What wheelbase are you using?

PH

 

[BrunoBæ]

I dont own these pedals but I saw in a thread about 1 year ago that if you use these pedals via the USB port and by incident happen to activate Windows calibration menu instead of Thrustmasters then something happens with the pedals.
Because from now on either all pedals or some of them does work as some kind of switch(= no gradual analogue movement).
As I recall the problem is quite easy to solve.
Either in the Windows calib menu or Thrustmasters(?) you just have to activate the DEFAULT settings.
And from now on only calibrate the pedals in Thrustmasters software.
Maybe one or two of you have this problem.
OK?

 

[Stefan Roess]

My brake paddle problem has returned.

Most of the time when the problem occurred in the last weeks, the throttle was completely gone or stayed in one position. But always only the accelerator pedal, never the brake pedal.
I had to stop about 6 times in a 45 minutes race, get out of my chair, behind the PC, unplug and replug USB pedals, and the wheel recalibrated and I could accelerate again.

What annoying crap.
I thought I had fixed the problem.
Last weekend I opened and cleanded the pedals. I could also not see any damage (loose cable, whatever).
On Sunday I was able to do a 1 hour race with THR Assetto Corsa league.
Last night I was racing offline for 2 hours without any problem.

But tonight in qualifying the problem has returned at a GPLRACER race. I had to stop once in qualifying and unplug and replug my USB pedals. And in the race after some laps I crashed because the throttle got stuck. :frowning:
Over the last weeks, I have tried almost everything I can think of.

Before the pedals worked for about 1 1/2 years without any problems.

My system:

GPL System Requirements

www.gplworld.de

Wheel: Thrustmaster T500 RS Racing Wheel (USB)
Pedals: Thrustmaster T-LCM Pedals

What I have done so far:
- changed from plug-in to wheelbase, to connect to the PC directly via USB -> little improvement
- checked if there is a driver update for the T-LCM Pedals, no they are plug and play
- Windows 10 is updated to latest build -> no improvement
- updated all Mainboard drivers -> no improvement
- updated/flashed BIOS to latest version -> no improvement
- tested different USB ports -> no improvement
- reset in Windows calibration menu and also Thrustmaster pedal software to the DEFAULT settings -> no improvement - I rule out electrostatic charge. The pedals have worked great for 1 1/2 years without any problems. The pedals stand on the Thrustmaster T-Pedals stand (made of metal), these on a wooden floor. My seat is on a plastic base. I wear socks to ride, but barefoot doesn't change anything.
- opened the peddals and cleaned them carefully with compressed air spray and cotton swabs -> big improvement, but problem returned

At the moment I tend to throw my T-LCM Pedals out of the window.

 

[Stefan Roess]

New T-LCM pedals, same problem. So it was not the pedals!
I tried again to connect the pedals directly to the steering wheel via the RJ cable and plugged the steering wheel itself into another USB slot.
And what a surprise, it works. Let's see if it stays like this.
I thought I had tried all the USB slots.

 

[Paul Harwood]

I tried to join Gamer Muscle for some online AC and the stuck throttle issue happened. This is on my newer gamer system.

I think I have an older set of T LCM. so I may still try Mustafa's fix and boot loader method. Then if that doesn't work move onto other options.

But ... New direct drive wheels and load cell pedals are available, so I may just move onto new gear if all fails. But I do like my full TM 'eco system' so I'll try and solve this issue again . Yet, I had planned for this T 300 system to sort of tide me over until DD wheels became more affordable.

After the incident earlier, I reconnected the USB and ran a few offline laps with no issues.

I have some GPL racing later this evening.

Will report.

Cheers.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

GPL online racing with LoPeN league went well. Only one stuck throttle incident early in practice. Afterwards I only got the occasional short spike but no wide open sticking. The spikes only forced me off track once. The good thing is that these spikes are very short bursts and then the pedal is OK again.

I checked the TM tech support section and did notice a new driver set: '2023 TRS 2' with driver: 2.11.31.0. The release notes : "Fixed conflicts (and some Force Feedback issues on PC) with the latest modification of the Microsoft GameInput service."

I will try updating the driver first.

For now, I want to see if the full 100% sticking returns.

Will report.

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

GPL online racing with LoPeN league went well. Only one stuck throttle incident early in practice. Afterwards I only got the occasional short spike but no wide open sticking. The spikes only forced me off track once. The good thing is that these spikes are very short bursts and then the pedal is OK again.

I checked the TM tech support section and did notice a new driver set: '2023 TRS 2' with driver: 2.11.31.0. The release notes : "Fixed conflicts (and some Force Feedback issues on PC) with the latest modification of the Microsoft GameInput service."

I will try updating the driver first.

For now, I want to see if the full 100% sticking returns.

Will report.

PH

So before racing today with GPL, I noticed my TV remote control was right next to the pedal-to-base wire. Usually I have it 3 inches away from that cable. That remote is on because my monitor is the TV. So the remote may be sending signals back to the TV but its definitely on.

No throttle issues in GPL online racing. No spikes at all. No 100% stuck throttle. All OK.

I just ran some offline laps in AC. Same thing. All OK.

This TV is a 'smart TV' so it may have voice recognition on even though I have not enabled or programmed those smart features. So the remote may be sending signals back and forth with the TV and some of those signals might be getting picked up by the rj12 cable? ... especially if the remote unit is actually touching the rj12 cable?

I have not updated the driver yet. I'm still testing to see if the issue comes back.

I will keep testing. I will report. Wouldn't it be nice if that was the cause? Easy to fix ...

PH

 

[Paul Harwood]

Did a race with Gamer Muscle with no throttle issues. Did a bit more online and offline testing with H pattern cars. All is OK.

I will keep testing and report.

PH

 

[ao1977]

New T-LCM pedals, same problem. So it was not the pedals!
I tried again to connect the pedals directly to the steering wheel via the RJ cable and plugged the steering wheel itself into another USB slot.
And what a surprise, it works. Let's see if it stays like this.
I thought I had tried all the USB slots.

The T-LCMs are quite picky when it comes to the USB port you connect them to.
Until recently I had those pedals on my rig, which is a Sim-Lab GT2 on casters with two daisy chained USB hubs under the pedal tray, so I have only one "master" cable to plug in when I set up my rig.
It took a while of frustration and debugging until I found out the pedals only worked reliably in the very first slot.

 

[Paul Harwood]

Did a race with Gamer Muscle with no throttle issues. Did a bit more online and offline testing with H pattern cars. All is OK.

I will keep testing and report.

PH

so it appears that the culprit this time was the TV/monitor remote control unit being too close or even touching the rj12 cable. Since I have moved the remote control unit back to where it should be: @ 3 inches from rj12 cable, no stuck throttle issues whatsoever.

PH

 

[E.Veldhoven]

copy post from other forum....

I think you are all wrong with the EMR and spring touching ideas
I had the same problem and tried all suggestions mentioned. but to no avail....
Until I replaced the bumpstop underneath the throttle pedal.
The original bumpstop was long gone and a while back I changed it for some padding that you usually stick underneath the feet of a chair (to not scratch your wooden floor).
The new 'bumpstop' was already worn so that the pedal could almost touch the plastic body again, and the calibration tool hit 100% a little before full pedal input.
I think this is the issue that causes the stuck throttle position; the pedal just goes to far down.
I assume the sensor then goes out of its range and then gives a faulty signal which causes the throttle to hang.
I have now place additional padding as bumpstop on the board and made sure that the throttle cannot reach 100% raw input in the calibration tool.
after that I lowered the upper deadzone of the pedal to get 100% game input.
I haven't had a single incident since!!

Just make sure to check the raw input signal now and then, to make sure the bumpstop is still high enough and the raw input does not go to 100%. you won't have any problems anymore. And don't push too hard on the throttle, full is full

 

[nil0beast]

Hi mate can you send the attached file to me blagoydragnev@gmail.com Thank you very much for sharing this stuff.

Dear Metelele please check to PDF file. it happens coz, Firmware lost and you need to request "TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf" file from Thrustmaster support. if you share your e-mail also I can send you. I could not attach here coz file system.
with my best regards

Hello!! can you send the arrached file to me to -> forodani@hotmail.com Thank so much!!

 

[nil0beast]

Dear Metelele please check to PDF file. it happens coz, Firmware lost and you need to request "TLCMPEDALS_S32F373_v2_03.tmf" file from Thrustmaster support. if you share your e-mail also I can send you. I could not attach here coz file system.
with my best regards

hi!! can u send me the attachment file to -> forodani@hotmail.com thank you so much!! ^^

 

[Federico Testa]

after some long tryouts i might have solved it

 

[Federico Testa]

copy post from other forum....

I think you are all wrong with the EMR and spring touching ideas
I had the same problem and tried all suggestions mentioned. but to no avail....
Until I replaced the bumpstop underneath the throttle pedal.
The original bumpstop was long gone and a while back I changed it for some padding that you usually stick underneath the feet of a chair (to not scratch your wooden floor).
The new 'bumpstop' was already worn so that the pedal could almost touch the plastic body again, and the calibration tool hit 100% a little before full pedal input.
I think this is the issue that causes the stuck throttle position; the pedal just goes to far down.
I assume the sensor then goes out of its range and then gives a faulty signal which causes the throttle to hang.
I have now place additional padding as bumpstop on the board and made sure that the throttle cannot reach 100% raw input in the calibration tool.
after that I lowered the upper deadzone of the pedal to get 100% game input.
I haven't had a single incident since!!

Just make sure to check the raw input signal now and then, to make sure the bumpstop is still high enough and the raw input does not go to 100%. you won't have any problems anymore. And don't push too hard on the throttle, full is full

I might (i say might as after one week no problem) have solved my issue with 100% stuck gas pedal:
- replaced gas pedal spring that was almost broken (well it broke as soon as i removed it)
- replaced rubber bumpstop as suggested as it was wornout
- sprayed electronic contact cleaner everywhere as well as in usb ports

so far so good

 

[rusty the datsun]

Wouldn't recommend these pedals too anyone , not happy with mine, the gas spring was almost bent in half like it was going too break some time soon, swapped spring with the clutch spring, was kinda stiff but has softened up alot. The break pedal has alot of movement from side too side which was excarberated by having the plate screwed too the left than centre. sorry if i'm off topic .

my clutch pedal has began to not go all the way to 0 it tends to sit at 0.2 to 0.6 and when i put my hand on the back of it and push it back a little it stops as long as i hold it is this a spring issue? cause i'm probably gonna get the logitech G PRO pedals soon cause these TLCM's i have were a placeholder from my original logitech pedals that came with my g923 cause they crapped thsemselfs 3 months in


also FYI my pedals are plugged into the front USB port on my pc on the top

 

[Piotrek Blaszczak]

Would someone be kind and send me a file with firmware for TLCM version 2.03
piotrekboban@gmail.com
Thank you very much

 

[Piotrek Blaszczak]

A small update. I replaced the power supply with a more powerful one (650w to 850w), the pedals have not been disconnected for several days. Most likely, the previous power supply failed on the 5V line during a storm.