Major issue with T-LCM pedals - throttle and clutch get stuck

Hi, I use T-LCM pedals connected via USB together with G29 wheel (i don't have a thrustmaster wheel).

The issue is that my pedals randomly "disconnect" from my PC when not only playing, but just testing them in the Calibration Software. The throttle pedal gets stuck at either 0 or 100% and there is nothing I can do. Same goes for the clutch pedal. The brake pedal remains working, though. They don't disconnect completely as the brake pedal remains working and they're visible in the Device Manager. The blue led light at the back is still there. Calibration Software stops detecting them and I have to plug them again. But it works only for a while.


But it happens over and over again.
What I did:
-changed USB ports (I tried all of them - no result)
-replaced the USB cable (they're recognised but no input)
-flashed my BIOS in case it's USB support problem (no result)
-tried different version of Windows 10 (no result)
-I took the whole PC apart and then rebuilt again (no result)

HOWEVER, I tested those pedals on 2 different computers and they worked perfectly fine. So I'm sure it's something related to my PC, but I have no idea.

Please help, I'll appreciate any kind of help. I'm about to freak out 'cause I have no idea what should I do and I can't race. I've literally tried everything.


PC:
AMD Ryzen 5 2600
MOBO MSI B450M mortar
RTX 2060
2x8 GB RAM DDR4
 
i am facing the same issue and it became worse. mine are an old set from 2020.
both with hub or directly connected i have issues. i have a ferrite core on the cable as well, connected with usb cable. updated with new firmware. issue not solved yet....
 
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i am facing the same issue and it became worse. mine are an old set from 2020.
both with hub or directly connected i have issues. i have a ferrite core on the cable as well, connected with usb cable. updated with new firmware. issue not solved yet....
Hi mate, I started from 0 checked even my contacts in the room, if they are grounded haha. Really soon my ferrite cores + copper tape will arrive, I will use them to ground my entire outlet on the Desk. I think my personal problem and what causes the EMI is all the usb cables and a lot of them are not kinda grounded or isolated, some of them don't have ferrites, also I will work on the cable management once I ground all of them. Somehow the issue stops now for a lot of days, I honestly believe "heat" is a great great problem, as I run my AC now to like 18 degrees in my room to be cold asf I haven't had any issues since like 4-5 days now which is weird as hell, I drive a lot of hours and nothing and I used to have the issues non-stop.

If I ground everything and EMI starts to show up, I will know 100% that it is from the heat, because if I don't use my AC to cool the room, when I start Assetto Corsa with all the reshade and crap my graphic card goes to 99% and the radiator generates a lot of heat, so basically the PC + my wheel are making my entire room a literal "sauna". Then at some point my pedals start to F up every 10 minutes absolute nightmare. But as I mentioned no issues now from 4-5 days since i started using my AC, but this is inconvenient a bit, as you know electrical bills will skyrocket so will see, if the weather is already a bit cool, I don't want to be blasting my AC to cold temperatures the electrical bills will hit me hard.

I will give updates on my progress with Ferrite Cores and the Copper Tape + cable management and the "heat" hypothesis.
 
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Wouldn't recommend these pedals too anyone , not happy with mine, the gas spring was almost bent in half like it was going too break some time soon, swapped spring with the clutch spring, was kinda stiff but has softened up alot. The break pedal has alot of movement from side too side which was excarberated by having the plate screwed too the left than centre. sorry if i'm off topic .
 
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Hi mate, I started from 0 checked even my contacts in the room, if they are grounded haha. Really soon my ferrite cores + copper tape will arrive, I will use them to ground my entire outlet on the Desk. I think my personal problem and what causes the EMI is all the usb cables and a lot of them are not kinda grounded or isolated, some of them don't have ferrites, also I will work on the cable management once I ground all of them. Somehow the issue stops now for a lot of days, I honestly believe "heat" is a great great problem, as I run my AC now to like 18 degrees in my room to be cold asf I haven't had any issues since like 4-5 days now which is weird as hell, I drive a lot of hours and nothing and I used to have the issues non-stop.

If I ground everything and EMI starts to show up, I will know 100% that it is from the heat, because if I don't use my AC to cool the room, when I start Assetto Corsa with all the reshade and crap my graphic card goes to 99% and the radiator generates a lot of heat, so basically the PC + my wheel are making my entire room a literal "sauna". Then at some point my pedals start to F up every 10 minutes absolute nightmare. But as I mentioned no issues now from 4-5 days since i started using my AC, but this is inconvenient a bit, as you know electrical bills will skyrocket so will see, if the weather is already a bit cool, I don't want to be blasting my AC to cold temperatures the electrical bills will hit me hard.

I will give updates on my progress with Ferrite Cores and the Copper Tape + cable management and the "heat" hypothesis.
i cleaned the pedals but no success...trying with new cables now
 
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Wouldn't recommend these pedals too anyone , not happy with mine, the gas spring was almost bent in half like it was going too break some time soon, swapped spring with the clutch spring, was kinda stiff but has softened up alot. The break pedal has alot of movement from side too side which was excarberated by having the plate screwed too the left than centre. sorry if i'm off topic .
Hi mate, I pretty much done all the "simple" issues stuff, so the brake pedal problem you had, also it was wobbly so I researched, I opened the pedals literally whatever you can think of.

My first contact with Thrustmaster was to buy new Throttle springs, because I thought that I "broke" the spring, the pedal had almost to none resistance what so ever, but it happens that my spring got "bent" and with the spring being bent it had no resistance.

What you did, I absolutely did the same 100% and I had basically 0-100% tap clutch, because I can't control how much I press, I couldn't even kinda rest my foot on it, because the resistance was soo low on the bend spring that it had resistance only as much to bring the pedal back into normal position.


SO TO FIXING:

SPRINGS:
This is my way of how I fixed things, I purchased like 2 more Clutch springs ( already having 1 original as well, so I will have 3 in total, some for reserves ) and I swapped the Throttle and Clutch springs to be both "Clutch" springs, after now being probably a month + with double Clutch springs on both "Clutch + Throttle" pedal, I have absolutely no issue with resistance, you get used to it over time, but yes at the start as I drift for hours and hours my right foot got "sore" literally from the throttle control constantly, but I guarantee you that you will get used after like week and a half depends how much you drive on the sim.

WOBBLY BRAKE PEDAL:

There is no perfect fix for that due to it not having the same plastic cover on left and right, like the clutch and throttle pedal (only the new T-LCM's seem to have those I am lucky I guess), but I fixed mine and it honestly is not moving at all there is not give or wobble on the pedal.

How? Well I am pretty sure you know the "nut" that is under the brake pedal under the base of the pedals, you just have to turn them upside down and screw the nut on the middle and your Brake pedal will become very stiff and stable, just 1 tip tighten it, but don't over-tighten or how to say, just don't tighten it too much, you don't want to broke or bust something on the pedals.

The pedals really are great, I was bashing them a bit, because I was not sure what is causing the problem, but now I see my mistake as turning my Desk with 2 monitors into a complete mayhem of 3 27" inch monitors + base + handbrake + shifter + pedals + button box + usb hub + mouse + keyboard + headphones and some other usb ****, is sooo much electrical **** on the PC that things got so complicated.

EMI Kinda Fix:

I need at least 1 more month to guarantee, if I solved the problem and how I solved it.

But I can say this so far, my Air Conditioner cooling my room was a life saver, HEAT is cancer, I am pretty sure that HEAT was the biggest problem, also there are a few factors for me to consider, I have ferrite cored ALL my USB cables every usb cable you can think of has to be ferrited, if someone has this problem and tries to do the "elimination method" to figure out what is causing the EMI.

I also stopped driving with SHOES, I drive now with my socks only and it honestly is great, because I can feel the pedals a lot how much I've pushed the pedal and have superior control compared to my shoes, just the feeling is not there, because of the too much rubber anyways pointless info again sorry. So I don't know if the shoes cause any sort of friction that might potentially cause some crap or EMI this is complete shananingan from me I don't know, if that's possible or so, but is just theory was lazy to research about the shoes, but definitely have to, just to know its always good to know, but yea I will leave that there, I don't believe driving with shoes should be a problem, but still I need A LOT of testing to prove, if something and what is potentially contributing to all the EMI problem, "HEAT" is the biggest greatly (FOR ME) I say again FOR ME, because everyone's problem might be super specific depending on their setup grounding etc so many factors, but yea. Start 1 by 1 elimination method, you can start with grounding all your electrical outlet like using ferrite cores on all usb cables, lets say thats fix number 1, after that if that crap doesn't work, then go with cooling the room down with AC to drop to cold temperatures, if that doesn't work jump into another fix go without shoes and so on, until you test all the possible scenarios you never know, it's that damn complicated at least for me.

So my pedals now have even x2 ferrites ( 1 default original from Thrustmaster ) + 1 more from me, also the TS-XW base I put x2 ferrites as well ( 1 original + 1 extra from me ).

If double ferriting I put 1 ferrite core at the end and 1 at the start, but with like 5-6cm after the start and end away.

Basically put ferrite cores, I haven't used my Copper Tape at all, it was kinda useless purchase but who knows let it gather dust for now.

So first things first, my room was a literal "sauna" after 30-60 minutes of play this is from mainly my "PC" radiator because I ran the game with ultra graphics reshade and whatever damn mod for graphics you can think of, so yea max graphics fans go wild radiator goes max heat and room in no time becomes a sauna + wheel generates heat a fair amount and yea disaster, if there is no big ventilation in the room and so on, so in my case I needed to use Air Conditioner to cool the room down.

TSS Sparco Handbrake "Loose Handbrake" FIX:

I've opened last days the handbrake, because I got annoyed that now it had no resistance and there is a nut, that is on a bolt and is pushing a spring that is potentially your resistance right, so all you literally had to do is just to tighten the nut back and there you go, your spring will be tough again and happy days.

Now for literally simple dumb fixes, as I am not a technician or expert, I just don't trust any kind of service either it be Logitech cause they failed to fix the most simple **** I could fix but was lazy and sent it to them for warranty and they ****ed me over by refunding instead of giving me my wheel, so yea no Thrustmaster warranty no Logitech warranty except it is something serious that I can't do **** about.

If it's simple and basic I fix it and we gucci.

I really appreciate everyone in this community and threads and just the Sim Racing community at all, because everyone is so positive and helps and there is a lot of information I literally figured out how to fix most of the stuff from people that had this issue and explained it either on videos or forums.

And if someone is not already bored as hell to read this BIG ESSAY, I will be making some episodes on youtube kinda for all my simple fixes, so hopefully they will help back whoever searches it on youtube.

Slowly but surely I will post my fixes of wobbliness of pedals, of handbrake, rattling sound of my wheel, EMI in sort of Episodes, so yea if someone needs answers or help for super simple basic stuff and fixes feel free to tune in to the channel below.
Peace and sorry for the big essay to whoever reads it, but compared to the fact I spent weeks of digging forums and youtube and whatever info I can find on, the info I just shared will save you not hours, but DAYS.

 
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i am facing the same issue and it became worse. mine are an old set from 2020.
both with hub or directly connected i have issues. i have a ferrite core on the cable as well, connected with usb cable. updated with new firmware. issue not solved yet....
Sorry for not answering your question directly my bad on that, I remember there were a lot of topic and stuff regarding the pedals "disconnecting" when I was digging hard for hours and hours, however I literally skipped those, because I didn't had issues disconnecting, but just EMI.

But one thing I can guarantee there were a lot of thread either reddit or steam topics whatever you can think of they were popping and I jumped into the **** one after another looking for answers everywhere.

I am sure if you dig a bit you will find forum topic about the disconnecting, I don't want to urge you to do something sketchy, but you can try "Mustafa's" method that he used to reset or whatever crap was that he did I forgot already, but yea if you got the latest firmware and you use the USB cable, because it is the MOST optimal and I believe we all should stick the USB one, except if really you don't have USB slots or you have some very weird issue with the USB cable, then I think you should use the RJ12 I believe was the cable called that you plug into the wheel.

Again I am no expert or even technician nor even electrician, but I feel like I wasted my life for 2 months digging this ****in **** problems with these pedals :D :D and speaking with Thrustmaster that my head is full of information on what potentially could something be and so on, but for the Disconnecting I can guarantee I saw a few forums and people answering in details the problem and so on, but I "skipped" them, because my problem was EMI.

I hope this helps you, I know I write a lot and get into details sometimes unnecessary, but yea sometimes details is what is missing or is important.


Hope this helps mate.
 
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i cleaned the pedals but no success...trying with new cables now
Just to confirm, you have issues with your pedals Disconnecting right ? Not EMI? Because if I have some free time I might look into that thing, as I am curious to see, if me driving with shoes has something to do with causing some sort of heat or etc, because T-LCM's have this metal kinda thin plate on top of the plastic cover and the shoes are constantly there and also frictioning on the pedals and I might check for the disconnecting problem.

I'd also advise you to check and do the first easy check, with the youtube video I shared earlier for the windows power saving from USB cables and hubs, which is really bad and honestly should be disabled. But the video was mainly for your PC not shutting down, but going into hibernate mode instead and if you are running windows 8 + I think you have that option you can defo give that a go and see, if it helps, but I doubt thats the case still is a good idea your PC to be "shut down" instead of hibernated, as it is still "ON" on theory.
 
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Sorry for not answering your question directly my bad on that, I remember there were a lot of topic and stuff regarding the pedals "disconnecting" when I was digging hard for hours and hours, however I literally skipped those, because I didn't had issues disconnecting, but just EMI.

But one thing I can guarantee there were a lot of thread either reddit or steam topics whatever you can think of they were popping and I jumped into the **** one after another looking for answers everywhere.

I am sure if you dig a bit you will find forum topic about the disconnecting, I don't want to urge you to do something sketchy, but you can try "Mustafa's" method that he used to reset or whatever crap was that he did I forgot already, but yea if you got the latest firmware and you use the USB cable, because it is the MOST optimal and I believe we all should stick the USB one, except if really you don't have USB slots or you have some very weird issue with the USB cable, then I think you should use the RJ12 I believe was the cable called that you plug into the wheel.

Again I am no expert or even technician nor even electrician, but I feel like I wasted my life for 2 months digging this ****in **** problems with these pedals :D :D and speaking with Thrustmaster that my head is full of information on what potentially could something be and so on, but for the Disconnecting I can guarantee I saw a few forums and people answering in details the problem and so on, but I "skipped" them, because my problem was EMI.

I hope this helps you, I know I write a lot and get into details sometimes unnecessary, but yea sometimes details is what is missing or is important.


Hope this helps mate.
thanks for that info, I never use the clutch thankfully, well pretty much only playing gt7 at the moment, I ve always worn socks, bought a set of simhound gloves but so used too driving with barehands that I can't wear em, don't feel right lol, as for the springs in the tlcm's , poor qaulity too be fitting in £190 pedals
 
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Just to confirm, you have issues with your pedals Disconnecting right ? Not EMI? Because if I have some free time I might look into that thing, as I am curious to see, if me driving with shoes has something to do with causing some sort of heat or etc, because T-LCM's have this metal kinda thin plate on top of the plastic cover and the shoes are constantly there and also frictioning on the pedals and I might check for the disconnecting problem.

I'd also advise you to check and do the first easy check, with the youtube video I shared earlier for the windows power saving from USB cables and hubs, which is really bad and honestly should be disabled. But the video was mainly for your PC not shutting down, but going into hibernate mode instead and if you are running windows 8 + I think you have that option you can defo give that a go and see, if it helps, but I doubt thats the case still is a good idea your PC to be "shut down" instead of hibernated, as it is still "ON" on theory.
at first it was disconnecting, so i decided to do the trick with windows power saving options. So disconnections stopped but i had the issue with the throttle stuck to half the power and brake working like in steps, so an EMI issue i guess. So i cleaned the pedals and connected them to another USB port on PC. Seems better now but accelerator still getting stuck from time to time. Going to try to ground my pedals directly.
 
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at first it was disconnecting, so i decided to do the trick with windows power saving options. So disconnections stopped but i had the issue with the throttle stuck to half the power and brake working like in steps, so an EMI issue i guess. So i cleaned the pedals and connected them to another USB port on PC. Seems better now but accelerator still getting stuck from time to time. Going to try to ground my pedals directly.
Oh man Oh man I just tried driving with my shoes again, while I was driving my pedals started to get stuck AGAIN and I just realized that shoe driving is causing the damn issues WTF. I had no issues for 1-2 weeks driving with socks and now I swap to my shoes and here they go again lol.

Thats so sad if I really don't know now I wanted to buy some race shoes, but if the race boots are ****in with my pedals then im screwed again.
 
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thanks for that info, I never use the clutch thankfully, well pretty much only playing gt7 at the moment, I ve always worn socks, bought a set of simhound gloves but so used too driving with barehands that I can't wear em, don't feel right lol, as for the springs in the tlcm's , poor qaulity too be fitting in £190 pedals
Ye Paul sadly I just figured out that any kind of shoes/boots whatever I use ****s up with my pedals.
 
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thanks for that info, I never use the clutch thankfully, well pretty much only playing gt7 at the moment, I ve always worn socks, bought a set of simhound gloves but so used too driving with barehands that I can't wear em, don't feel right lol, as for the springs in the tlcm's , poor qaulity too be fitting in £190 pedals
almost a month with no issues, because I was driving either bare foot or with socks and turns out my shoes were causing the problem, how the hell maybe friction between the pedals and the shoes or wtf very very weird!
 
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Hello folks, new guy(ish) to the forum, at least I think it might be my first time posting, but I found this thread when searching for solutions to my T-LCM having the same issue as a lot of you. I've read through a good bit of the thread, and wow, talk about some sticktuitiveness from "Paul" something I think it was? Apologies, I'm bad with names to begin with, but I was more focused on figuring out what was up with my dog-gone pedals. Anyway, not a "fix" per se, but I thought I'd add my $.02 about todays discoveries.

Backstory: My T-LCM pedals, which I'm using on PC with a Fanatec CSL DD wheelbase and until today they had only done the throttle pedal getting stuck thing maybe a dozen times or so in the maybe close to a year that I've had them. Unplugging and replugging the USB connection fixes the problem and until today I'm not sure it's ever even happened twice in a day before. It was plugged in with a USB hub that has switches for the individual ports, and the pedals aren't fond of being powered up that way, and almost always require me to pull and reinsert the USB cable at the Pedal end to be correctly recognized by my system. I thought this might have had something to do with the gas pedal sticking issue, but I switched it to a different USB hub and it did not fix the gas pedal sticking issue. It bears mentioning perhaps, that when the pedal gets "stuck", it can be at pretty much any throttle opening. I've had it hang at little to no throttle, several placed in between and all the way up to full throttle.

So then today, I started running AMS2, which I just picked up in the Steam sale, and the pedal sticking problem started to occur rapid fire. I kept running AMS2 for a while, trying to get the feel of the handling of the car, and was reading up on this issue, when I came across this thread. I run mostly iracing and have just recently started to spend any significant amount of time in others, BTW. So my previous throttle "disconnects" were either all in iracing except for maybe once in Dirt Rally 2.0 and/or ACC. So after reading through the thread, I rerouted the USB cable, but it hung back up almost immediately.. I switched to iracing. Great, iracing is doing it too. Also in the thread, I'd noticed that some had said the problem appears affected my footwear, and I had been diving barefoot, which I rarely ever do. So, a little frustrated, I figured what the hell, let me try my driving shoes. Well, I've been buzzing around the Nordschleife in iracing for an hour or more with no problem. I was literally only able to go seconds before it hung up until I put on the shoes, so it appears pretty definitive that barefoot makes the problem much more likely to happen on my set of pedals. Oh, and for the record, I saw someone had posted that they don't even have to cycle the USB connection, but can kick the pedal a few times and it comes back... Works with my pedals too.... Strange stuff. Even stranger that we're having to figure this stuff out ourselves and Thrustmaster support sounds utterly useless. You can't tell me they haven't heard about this problem a half gazillion times if we're finding each other out here by the droves. So Fanatec and Thrustmaster support suck, noted. Anyway, happy troubleshooting and I'll be back if I have anything worthwhile to contribute. And maybe even if I don't.

Edit: Added info about throttle hanging at partial opening, not just zero or full throttle.
 
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throttle hanging at partial opening
Disclaimer: not a T-LCM owner; just rewatched Barry's look inside:
  • throttle and clutch Hall sensors are "contactless"
    - no positive grounding for aluminum pedal castings.
  • brake has metal pivot plates, but throttle and clutch pivot in (insulating) plastic
  • sketchy (IMO) throttle pedal wire grounding contact is shown at 36:14/52:03
  • if/when that wire contact wears, ungrounded pedals are liable to static build-up.
IMO, aluminum pedal castings want better grounding:
  • drill a hole in pedal casting to anchor a flexible grounding wire with self-tapping screw and star washer to pierce pedal's aluminum oxide.
  • a possible expedient alternative: conductive grease, e.g. Gardner Bender Ox-Gard,
    between existing (worn) grounding wire and pedal.


 
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Hello folks, new guy(ish) to the forum, at least I think it might be my first time posting, but I found this thread when searching for solutions to my T-LCM having the same issue as a lot of you. I've read through a good bit of the thread, and wow, talk about some sticktuitiveness from "Paul" something I think it was? Apologies, I'm bad with names to begin with, but I was more focused on figuring out what was up with my dog-gone pedals. Anyway, not a "fix" per se, but I thought I'd add my $.02 about todays discoveries.

Backstory: My T-LCM pedals, which I'm using on PC with a Fanatec CSL DD wheelbase and until today they had only done the throttle pedal getting stuck thing maybe a dozen times or so in the maybe close to a year that I've had them. Unplugging and replugging the USB connection fixes the problem and until today I'm not sure it's ever even happened twice in a day before. It was plugged in with a USB hub that has switches for the individual ports, and the pedals aren't fond of being powered up that way, and almost always require me to pull and reinsert the USB cable at the Pedal end to be correctly recognized by my system. I thought this might have had something to do with the gas pedal sticking issue, but I switched it to a different USB hub and it did not fix the gas pedal sticking issue. It bears mentioning perhaps, that when the pedal gets "stuck", it can be at pretty much any throttle opening. I've had it hang at little to no throttle, several placed in between and all the way up to full throttle.

So then today, I started running AMS2, which I just picked up in the Steam sale, and the pedal sticking problem started to occur rapid fire. I kept running AMS2 for a while, trying to get the feel of the handling of the car, and was reading up on this issue, when I came across this thread. I run mostly iracing and have just recently started to spend any significant amount of time in others, BTW. So my previous throttle "disconnects" were either all in iracing except for maybe once in Dirt Rally 2.0 and/or ACC. So after reading through the thread, I rerouted the USB cable, but it hung back up almost immediately.. I switched to iracing. Great, iracing is doing it too. Also in the thread, I'd noticed that some had said the problem appears affected my footwear, and I had been diving barefoot, which I rarely ever do. So, a little frustrated, I figured what the hell, let me try my driving shoes. Well, I've been buzzing around the Nordschleife in iracing for an hour or more with no problem. I was literally only able to go seconds before it hung up until I put on the shoes, so it appears pretty definitive that barefoot makes the problem much more likely to happen on my set of pedals. Oh, and for the record, I saw someone had posted that they don't even have to cycle the USB connection, but can kick the pedal a few times and it comes back... Works with my pedals too.... Strange stuff. Even stranger that we're having to figure this stuff out ourselves and Thrustmaster support sounds utterly useless. You can't tell me they haven't heard about this problem a half gazillion times if we're finding each other out here by the droves. So Fanatec and Thrustmaster support suck, noted. Anyway, happy troubleshooting and I'll be back if I have anything worthwhile to contribute. And maybe even if I don't.

Edit: Added info about throttle hanging at partial opening, not just zero or full throttle.
I honestly believe also it depends what shoes you wear, If the shoes have leather on the bottom instead of rubber, in my case they were rubber and I think they started causing insane static energy build up. I drive with socks from now on and I have 0 and I mean absolutely 0 problem anymore.

I am not sure, if I will jump into grounding them, I might try maybe racing shoes or something expensive without rubber on the bottom, so I can feel the pedals again and also avoid a lot of static energy and if that happens again, I guess "blekenbleu" method sounds great to try out.

I hope I helped at least a bit with all my spam on the topic I wanted to keep everyone informed of my finding and Paul did amazing job as well, as everyone else who shared info we literally figured out the problem ourselves, Thrustmaster or any other support I've seen so far (Logitech/Thrustmaster) they are helping, but only to a very basic issue, they can't fix or figure out EMI issue for ya and yea you are kinda on your own sadly :(. God bless the sim racing community.
 
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Disclaimer: not a T-LCM owner; just rewatched Barry's look inside:
  • throttle and clutch Hall sensors are "contactless"
    - no positive grounding for aluminum pedal castings.
  • brake has metal pivot plates, but throttle and clutch pivot in (insulating) plastic
  • sketchy (IMO) throttle pedal wire grounding contact is shown at 36:14/52:03
  • if/when that wire contact wears, ungrounded pedals are liable to static build-up.
IMO, aluminum pedal castings want better grounding:
  • drill a hole in pedal casting to anchor a flexible grounding wire with self-tapping screw and star washer to pierce pedal's aluminum oxide.
  • a possible expedient alternative: conductive grease, e.g. Gardner Bender Ox-Gard,
    between existing (worn) grounding wire and pedal.


Thank you for sharing this, I might think of that in future if problem appears for me again!
 
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I have that electric grease and it didn't work.

My problems started when the throttle spring broke. But i have no issues with the clutch spring, but with springs i buy from a hardware store i have.

After many trials, errors and observations, i suspect that the spring coils cannot touch each other when full compressed (must make some kind of magnetic interference with sensor when they come together) , the original clutch coils spring does not touch full compressed, the original accelerator coils spring does not touch either. With use, the accelerator spring becomes more bent and coils starts to touch, and depending on the shoe, it can also make the coils touch more or less.

As soon as i started cutting some coils and stretching the springs i bought at the hardware store, so that there is a spacing between the coils when full compressed, had no more issues.
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As soon as i started cutting some coils and stretching the springs i bought at the hardware store, so that there is a spacing between the coils when full compressed, had no more issues.
That makes sense:
If/when that spring gets fully compressed (AKA coil bind),
then further pedal pressure lifts the designated pedal pivot
away from those grounding wires, ungrounding it.

That is why a positive fix involves a flexible wire anchored to the casting e.g. by self-threading screw in drilled hole.
 
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That makes sense:
If/when that spring gets fully compressed (AKA coil bind),
then further pedal pressure lifts the designated pedal pivot
away from those grounding wires, ungrounding it.

That is why a positive fix involves a flexible wire anchored to the casting e.g. by self-threading screw in drilled hole.
I had already done that, and if the spring coils touch, the problem persists. Only a spring where the coils are not touching has solved the issue, , the interference seems to be with sensor, more magnetic than electrical.


Screenshot_20220628-145851_Photos.jpg
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Screenshot_20220628-151522_Photos.jpg
 
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