The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Mascot · Mar 4, 2019

saxxon66 said:
Servo driver Testing

Some notes to the servo driver testing procedure.
You can disable the servo driver by disconnecting the ENA (enable) wire.
You can do it on the arduino pin or emergency stop, depends on your setup.
No need to pull the AC main plugs.
Should be much safer to do it this way.

Thanks @saxxon66 , in my particular case I was trying to isolate the drivers one-by-one to identify the source of an electronic whine so had to power them down individually. I wish my 6-gang power surge extension lead had power switches next to every plug - it would have made things slightly easier..!

leeroy605 · Mar 4, 2019

saxxon66 said:
We do not know exactly how we could use these interfaces in the future.
Potentially you can configure the servo driver or send instructions over these interfaces.
Time will tell, so it's only for future proofness at the moment.

You do not need these interfaces to build your Simulator.

Thank you for the reply. For the small amount he is asking I think I'll just get it anyways as you never know!

o Tiger Feet o said:
Is this something that can be added later? Or is it something you need to spec at the time of order?

Out of interest, what was the additional cost?

It's going to add $30 onto the final bill so not much at all. Think I am going to go for it

pass-low · Mar 4, 2019

i ordered with modbus and have got v6.2's not wired up yet to see if they whine, im hopefully too old (45) and too many days in datacentres+ music events to hear whine as ive already got tinnitus .

i can bench test them to provide feedback, do they need to be under load as not built actuators yet? (240v)

BerraMorot · Mar 4, 2019

Hi
After following this thread with great interest during a couple of months i finally decided to build my own SFX100 I started to order everything and have had great help from reading all posts here. I do have one question regarding NTL Bearing, it seams like Emily have resigned from CHANGSHA TERRY MACHINERY CO.LTD and is replaced by a new contact there called Amy. I want to use paypal for payment and was told to send money to xinjie20000 (at) 163.com. Just want to check with the rest of you who have used NTL Bearing as a provider for the inner parts, if you used the same paypal account? Everything looks ok in the proforma invoice, just want to be sure if the paypal account is ok?

BluePotato00 · Mar 4, 2019

Mr Latte said:
My rig, is going to be much heavier than the typical build. With its steel tubing, isolation and tactile mounted, it could easily come in at 150KG or more, without a user being seated.

I think many of our rigs here are near that weight. In one of the videos, a second man stood on the frame with another person in the seat racing and the actuators didn't seem to behave any differently with the added ~70Kg.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 4, 2019

So to clarify (for an idiot) the mobus Modbus RS-323/485 option...

Is that a different port on the controller?
Although not supported, i assume it still works as a normal Dsub 25 port ? In terms of controlling our servos? (I assume the not supported bit refers to updating and a like?)
If you go for the Mobus option, do you then need different cables instead of the 'standard' 25pin Dsub cables?

Thanks - just abit confused about this Mobus

metalnwood · Mar 4, 2019

o Tiger Feet o said:
So to clarify (for an idiot) the mobus Modbus RS-323/485 option...

Is that a different port on the controller?

Although not supported, i assume it still works as a normal Dsub 25 port ? In terms of controlling our servos? (I assume the not supported bit refers to updating and a like?)

If you go for the Mobus option, do you then need different cables instead of the 'standard' 25pin Dsub cables?

Thanks - just abit confused about this Mobus

If you buy with the modbus option your drive will come with an extra port that will not be used at the moment. It will still come with all the same ports and the build will be exactly the same as everyone else as far as wiring/cables.

sberns · Mar 4, 2019

BerraMorot said:
I do have one question regarding NTL Bearing, it seams like Emily have resigned from CHANGSHA TERRY MACHINERY CO.LTD and is replaced by a new contact there called Amy. I want to use paypal for payment and was told to send money to xinjie20000 (at) 163.com. Just want to check with the rest of you who have used NTL Bearing as a provider for the inner parts, if you used the same paypal account? Everything looks ok in the proforma invoice, just want to be sure if the paypal account is ok?

I’m also just starting with this project. Very excited guys! Amy’s quote had the same PayPal account listed. I’m waiting to hear back from her to confirm this is the correct address but from this thread it seems like it’s the one. If I hear anything different, I’ll post it here.
BTW, for any of you interested in a different type of DIY G-Seat, check out my thread here: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/g-seat-addon-to-3dof-rig.11260/
Built a v1 and v2. Parts list on page 2. Happy to answer any questions.

o Tiger Feet o · Mar 4, 2019

I'm guessing not many chose the modus option and just chose the one in the shopping list?

Has anybody got the modus option and can confirm it works as SFX-100?

BenKay · Mar 4, 2019

I opted for the Modbus option just for future proofing, in case it even becomes used. You get an extra port on the front of the controller. And you get a length of cable with the appropriate plug on one end, and bare wires the other.

The normal ports you would get if you did not spec. the option are all still there, and this project simply uses those ports as usual.

MrRoper · Mar 4, 2019

How are you finding the P1 rig Mascot? Im going to need to upgrade my rig once the actuators are complete (still busy printing!) and cant decide whether to build my own or just buy the P1

acekrusty23 · Mar 4, 2019

on the servo drive L1 is active, L2 is neutral?? Is this correct.
Thanks.

metalnwood · Mar 4, 2019

acekrusty23 said:
on the servo drive L1 is active, L2 is neutral?? Is this correct.
Thanks.

I have mine wires as L1 phase, l2 neutral, so yes

Mascot · Mar 4, 2019

MrRoper said:
How are you finding the P1 rig Mascot? Im going to need to upgrade my rig once the actuators are complete (still busy printing!) and cant decide whether to build my own or just buy the P1

It's absolutely bomb-proof. Might be overkill, but better safe than sorry, yes?

A less substantial and therefore lighter chassis might be more agile with motion though. It's a difficult balancing act and a difficult thing to quantify.

anton_Chez · Mar 4, 2019

I've had a look at your DIY G Seat, Steve, (ANOTHER ONE......!!) and was very interested in it. Maybe when I have some spare time once all the SFX stuff has died down!

acekrusty23 · Mar 4, 2019

metalnwood said:
I have mine wires as L1 phase, l2 neutral, so yes

Thanks mate.

sberns · Mar 4, 2019

anton_Chez said:
I've had a look at your DIY G Seat, Steve, (ANOTHER ONE......!!) and was very interested in it. Maybe when I have some spare time once all the SFX stuff has died down!

Anytime

Chris Sellars · Mar 4, 2019

Hi guys,
Has anyone got a spare H92RH10M8 insert lying around? After all the horror stories on these inserts I thought I better get a crack on. Used a 12. Volt impact driver and it was easy peasy thanks to all of you who have shared advice and the videos. But I was one short. I'm in New Zealand so anyone in Australia or NZ who has a spare?

Cheers.

MrRoper · Mar 4, 2019

Mascot said:
It's absolutely bomb-proof. Might be overkill, but better safe than sorry, yes?
A less substantial and therefore lighter chassis might be more agile with motion though. It's a difficult balancing act and a difficult thing to quantify.

Did you have any issues with mounting the front actuators? it looks like the pedal plate makes finding room difficult?