The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[anton_Chez]

it could easily come in at 150KG or more, without a user being seated

I'm pretty sure I can here the actuators chuckling to themselves a little, just behind me........

 

[C64]

@Mascot looking nice, glad to see you take the step and make progress.
Can you or others report on the "operational vibration noise" to other adjacent rooms and in particular those beneath. For say a typical wooden joist based UK home. IIRC this was one concern you had?

What is the max weight limits this motion can support?
My rig, is going to be much heavier than the typical build. With its steel tubing, isolation and tactile mounted, it could easily come in at 150KG or more, without a user being seated.

I did some simple energy sums based on my rig, I have seen amax of 400w across all actuators, their capacity is 3000w which implied that each actuator has the capacity to lift 300 - 400 kg.

If your rig is very heavy then you will get reduced acceleration because of inertia but I suspect you won’t be anywhere near the capacity of the actuators.

 

[Ahikam Naor]

Hi,
If someone need help with 3d printing, I can help you with a very low price.
I will tell you to buy a 3d printer, but if you don't want to, I'm here.

 

[saxxon66]

I did some simple energy sums based on my rig, I have seen amax of 400w across all actuators, their capacity is 3000w which implied that each actuator has the capacity to lift 300 - 400 kg.

If your rig is very heavy then you will get reduced acceleration because of inertia but I suspect you won’t be anywhere near the capacity of the actuators.

I did some calculations based on the torque and it turns out about 200 kg/actuator.

But this is pure theoretical calculation and needs to be proven in real life.
More mass = more inertia = slower reaction speed
We have seen some really heavy rigs, 150kg is on the upper end but should work fine.

 

[HoiHman]

Today it has been already 5 months since i completed the SFX100 build. Just out of curiosity i took out the 5 months old slider and compared it to a fresh 3D printed one (with no post processing)

This video is to show you that, unlike in great tutorial video from VSP, no real post procession is needed as long as you have the right 3D prints

So after 5 months of use of the SFX100 i only had one single failure. The locknut of the fixed bearing came loose. This was an easy fix and with some locktide i'm confident it will never come loose by itself ever again.

The SFX100 and SimFeedback is beyond awesome, since i have it, there have been no google searches from me for D-box or any other motion system anymore.

In the 5 months i have learned a lot about the system and it's software, but still i feel like i only have scratched the surface. I can't wait for the next update and hope to see a lot of improvements and expansion of the posibilities in the future.

With the launch of great new website by Rowan, things are really taking of and more people are starting new builds every day. Which is really great.

Currently i'm 3D printing the parts for 3 new SFX100 users who will join our SFX community soon

It has been said before : The SFX100 is the OSW of motion.

It the beginning i complained that the system is loud and can not be used while my family is sleeping. This is still the case, but only at full high intensity levels, i have learned that setting the overal intensity to 20%-40% in general creates an almost completely silent profile.

I have been racing with silent profiles for months during the nightly hours without waking up anyone, while still getting enough feedback and immersion

Last i want to express my thanks again to @saxxon66 and @Ringorian for helping out their first public SFX100 builder that very same day through voicechat wayback when it all started

 

[DotComRich]

I have the high pitch noise too. I assume it’s normal.

Is this like a high pitch dog whistle kind of sound? If so I also get this out of one of my actuators(not an sfx100 tho). One thing I've learned is it can be any actuator that is connected to that servo driver, like its something electrical maybe because whichever actuator I hook up to that servo driver will make the sound.

 

[ScottSonder]

Congrats @Mascot , it's even rewarding for people following the thread to see it run to success. This build process could not be more fun. I've been playing with the 3D printer all weekend.

 

[anton_Chez]

One thing I've learned is it can be any actuator that is connected to that servo driver, like its something electrical maybe because whichever actuator I hook up to that servo driver will make the sound.

Sounds like we're looking at a driver issue rather than the motor's themselves. Makes sense, this is where the power comes from. The motors would have little electronics in them in comparison to the driver, also. Correct me if I'm wrong, however. There's the encoder, that's all I can think of.

 

[jimbraj]

Hey Jimmy, what do you mean by rushing, compared to what you did in your YT video?

the first few i took my time and then i got cocky and let the impact slip a little which stripped out the insert. so again take your time watch what your doing. its really very simple that was the first time i ever tapped extrusion

 

[metalnwood]

the first few i took my time and then i got cocky and let the impact slip a little which stripped out the insert. so again take your time watch what your doing. its really very simple that was the first time i ever tapped extrusion

Sounds like sage advise for the first time you tap anything

 

[Mascot]

Is this like a high pitch dog whistle kind of sound? If so I also get this out of one of my actuators(not an sfx100 tho). One thing I've learned is it can be any actuator that is connected to that servo driver, like its something electrical maybe because whichever actuator I hook up to that servo driver will make the sound.

I'm currently trying to resolve the high-pitched whistle with the help from a few forum members here. I'll be honest, when I heard comments that this was 'normal' I was very disheartened, as there was no way on earth I'd be able to live with it. It's like torture, headache-inducing after ten minutes and leaving me with ringing in my ears for hours afterwards. My sim audio is from a Yamaha 5.1 amp and turning that up as loud as I could stand it wouldn't drown out the whistling.
The problem with describing a whistle is that it's all subjective, and a recording wouldn't pick it up to demonstrate how bad it is. Plus, everyone's hearing is different and sensitive to varying ranges of frequencies, plus it can be age-related. There might well be a faint, almost imperceptible whistle for most builders which is what people are describing as 'normal'. What I'm experiencing is anything but, even though it might well be within tolerance for industrial servo drivers meant for noisy factories, and not for a quiet domestic environment.
Anyway, after extensive troubleshooting yesterday (moving power supplies, checking all wiring, using different cables, swapping USB ports and USB cables, altering servo RPM etc etc - a day's work, all-in-all) I'm now 99% sure that I've tracked the issue down to a rogue servo driver. If you think you have an unacceptable high-pitched noise then try what I did:
Power everything up and hit 'START' to raise the platform. This is where my whistle would start. With the platform raised unplug the MAINS POWER (in my case, kettle plugs) from each servo driver one at a time until (hopefully) the whistling stops. That might be your rogue driver. Make sure to plug the current driver power back in before moving on to the next so that only one driver is unplugged at any one time.
Next, as wisely suggested by @metalnwood, plug everything back in and hit 'STOP' to lower the platform. [***You should power everything off at the mains at this point as you'll be working near mains power connections, even though they should be protected under the hinged plastic window on top of the servo driver***].
Then swap the DB25 connectors AT THE DRIVER END, NOT THE PCB END between your suspected rogue driver and its equivalent on the opposite side, eg if you suspect the REAR LEFT servo driver is causing the issue, swap its DB25 driver connection cable with the one for REAR RIGHT. Swap just the DB25 connection, NOT the black motor power/data connector, and leave the ones connected to your DB25 sockets at the Arduino end alone.
Then reconnect the power and hit START again to raise the platform.
Unplug the power again to your rogue driver and if the whistle stops then you know it's the servo driver causing the issue and not an problem with the motor, arduino or electrical circuit earlier in the connection loop.

 

[Mascot]

Different subject, but someone asked me about tapping the ends of the aluminium extrusion to mount the servos further back by ~100mm on 80/20-type chassis. I'd heartily recommend this if your seat is set quite far back on your rig - you'll appreciate the extra elbow room.

I just used an M8 tap wrench into the round central ports in the extrusion, which are the right size to be tapped M8.

Put some 3-in-1 oil (or other lubricant) on the tap and in the hole.
Wind it in clockwise then when it starts to get stiff back it off 1/2 a turn anticlockwise (to clear the thread of swarf), then do one clockwise turn, back off half a turn anticlockwise, then do one clockwise turn, back off half a turn anticlockwise, and just continue this process until the thread is as deep as you want it, then unscrew the tap.
Don't force it, taps are brittle and can snap, but aluminium is soft so it's pretty easy.
Took five minutes each hole. I went in as deep as the tap would allow then used long M8 bolts.
Square end caps can then be used to close the exposed ends.

 

[DotComRich]

My noise is also borderline unbearable for me and causes me headaches if I don’t get into my rift ASAP lol.

It’s 100% the servo driver at fault, the motor makes the sound but it’s caused by something from that specific driver, question is how do we fix it aside from replacing it hoping to get one without the noise? I’ve compared just about every setting I could find on them, nothing differed. I took it apart and looked at the internals, didn’t see anything wrong.

 

[metalnwood]

I tapped mine the other week to do this, then I got used to using the motors as something to lean on when getting in and out so I haven't moved them yet

 

[Mascot]

I tapped mine the other week to do this, then I got used to using the motors as something to lean on when getting in and out so I haven't moved them yet

Mine are actually now in a better position to lean on during ingress/egress - plus there's more ass-room when climbing in and out.!

 

[Mascot]

I wish I could do it all again I loved the build process, and I still can’t stop 3d printing things

Sounds like you and @MeNoMoney should get together - I think he's looking for someone to help with his build, and if you enjoyed it that much...

 

[saxxon66]

Servo driver Testing

Some notes to the servo driver testing procedure.
You can disable the servo driver by disconnecting the ENA (enable) wire.
You can do it on the arduino pin or emergency stop, depends on your setup.
No need to pull the AC main plugs.
Should be much safer to do it this way.

Servo Driver Wiring

In the beginning of this project I found an interesting thread:
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6258-AC-servo-motor-help-!/page3

They talked about retro fitting the rs232/485 ability, but ...
there is one guy, vre, who mentioned a different way to connect the single phase AC to the driver.
By doing this, he said, you are using more diodes.

"...
I have tested the servo motor/driver with phase/neutral connected in L1/L2 and L3 unconnected (using only 1 rectifier) and seems to working.
To use 6 diodes from 8 totally with this type of pcb wiring you must connect phase/neutral to L3/L1 or L3/L2 because the in 2nd rectifier
the 2 ~ legs are bridged. With phase/neutral to L1/L2 only 4 diodes of 8 used. ..."

I have not tested the sugested wiring, maybe we do have an Electrician who can jump in here.
Maybe this will help in regards to the high pitch/coil whine tone.


Servo Driver Version

In the german forum one user mentioned he got different versions of this driver.
V6.2 and V6.3
I haven't checked mine yet, but maybe this will be related to something.

 

[leeroy605]

Looking to order my servos in the next week or so, asked David who sells them for a quote as suggested in here.

It's been put in here before but he's asked if I wanted modbus support added onto the bill.

I understand some people haven't bothered with this, whilst some have said it's worth having for future proofing. What exactly would I be future proofing for if I got this added?

Also, I may be asking one of you kind gentlemen for some help getting my 3d prints sorted in the near future if that is okay

 

[saxxon66]

...
It's been put in here before but he's asked if I wanted modbus support added onto the bill.

I understand some people haven't bothered with this, whilst some have said it's worth having for future proofing. What exactly would I be future proofing for if I got this added?

We do not know exactly how we could use these interfaces in the future.
Potentially you can configure the servo driver or send instructions over these interfaces.
Time will tell, so it's only for future proofness at the moment.

You do not need these interfaces to build your Simulator.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

Is this something that can be added later? Or is it something you need to spec at the time of order?

Out of interest, what was the additional cost?