Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

How do you mean be careful?
He meant that you will need a way to send those 8 channels to the amp. For example, if you need to provide 8 channels from your PC to the amp using RCA cables, but the amplifier only supports 8 channels via HDMI inputs, you will be stuck with an unusable amp.

Also, if the amp's 8th channel is dedicated to a powered subwoofer, then you will only have 7 amplified channels, not 8.
 
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How do you mean be careful?
Some surround receivers lack discrete multi-channel inputs,
supporting over S/PDIF only some Dolby or similar encoded matrix
or HDMI, which can be discrete or matrixed,
where matrixed mixes tactile signals among channels,
and Windows 10 anyway does not support without a rare proprietary licensed driver.
FWIW, HDMI can work for discrete multi-channel from Windows ..
 
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Some surround receivers lack discrete multi-channel inputs,
supporting over S/PDIF only some Dolby or similar encoded matrix
or HDMI, which can be discrete or matrixed,
where matrixed mixes tactile signals among channels,
and Windows 10 anyway does not support without a rare proprietary licensed driver.
FWIW, HDMI can work for discrete multi-channel from Windows ..
Can you advise what I need to look for when purchasing a 'vintage' amp so that it works with a USB sound card on a Windows PC with no issues?
 
Thank you very much for the helpful guide! I think I am beginning to grasp it, slowly.

So the amp of choice needs to have multichannel analogue inputs for this to work easily.
I'll attach a picture of the back of an amp which I believe has exactly this!
Please tell me if I'm correct there.
These multichannel inputs have the label 'DVD' below them correct?

I'LL also attach a picture of a 7.1 USB sound card that I can use 3.5mm AUX to RCA adaptors in order to connect each L/R source from the USB sound card to the amp with multichannel analogue inputs?

I appreciate your time and efforts here people
 

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The Information you seek is all in this thread here.

So grab a coffee/tea/beer and have at it ;)

For a condensed and better organised version check
"Peter Winklers Rig Report"


MFG Carsten
 
Recently rebuilt/upgraded my sim rig with an aluminium extrusion cockpit and DD wheel and just ordered decent pedals. Now looking at tactile upgrades. later this year the rig will move into an extension that we’re building but until then it’s in a bedroom so I’m thinking of getting the NLR haptic pad to keep sound/vibration levels down but also looking at diy,ing some pedal haptics.

Looking at the little dayton exciters (DAEX32EP) mentioned up thread but then watched a YouTube by sim racing corner about using cheap Ali express exciters instead to try it out. Has anyone on here experimented with them yet? I figured the Dayton ones would likely be of better quality and be likely to last longer but you never know these days, the Chinese produced stuff is often of equal quality.

I’d be driving them with a spare class D amp I have lying around via sim hub and the stereo audio output from the motherboard. At least that’s the plan. I have a 3D printer so would look to print up some mounting brackets for the VRS pedals.
 
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Recently rebuilt/upgraded my sim rig with an aluminium extrusion cockpit and DD wheel and just ordered decent pedals. Now looking at tactile upgrades. later this year the rig will move into an extension that we’re building but until then it’s in a bedroom so I’m thinking of getting the NLR haptic pad to keep sound/vibration levels down but also looking at diy,ing some pedal haptics.

Looking at the little dayton exciters (DAEX32EP) mentioned up thread but then watched a YouTube by sim racing corner about using cheap Ali express exciters instead to try it out. Has anyone on here experimented with them yet? I figured the Dayton ones would likely be of better quality and be likely to last longer but you never know these days, the Chinese produced stuff is often of equal quality.

I’d be driving them with a spare class D amp I have lying around via sim hub and the stereo audio output from the motherboard. At least that’s the plan. I have a 3D printer so would look to print up some mounting brackets for the VRS pedals.
I have tried the Dayton Thruster in various locations, both attached directly to a pedal, to the pedal tray, and under the seat. It feels impressive initially on a pedal, but once it is mounted to the rig, it really just doesn't have enough mass to "shake" anything. Turn the power up enough and it will just rattle itself to death. To set the scene, I have 4-corner BST-1s and the Thruster just can't be felt over those. I would recommend a BST-1 at minimum.

I can heartily recommend this kit from slip-angle.com: https://www.slip-angle.com/

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So I've secured myself a 'vintage' amp as @stigs2cousin suggested as an option for my current budget and needs.
I managed to get this at the price of what 2x of the nobsound amps would have cost me. So thanks again!
The Onkyo amp is the size of a bus compared, but I have 7x channels @ 180-200w at my disposal instead of 4x @ 50w. So I'll take that!

I've also decided on 3x of the Reckhorn BS-200i transducers which will all be mounted under my seat.
2 at the rear to handle L/R details such as road impacts and rear wheel slip.
Then 1 towards the front of the seat to handle road vibrations and gear shifts.

I will also isolate my seat, but unsure if I will do this at the same time, or after the 3x reckhorns go In so that I can feel the difference isolation to the seat makes.

The plan is also to order Calvin's Rumble Kit for the brake and throttle pedals as I've heard these are very powerful which will be used for ABS and wheel lock, then TC and wheel slip respectively.
 
I have tried the Dayton Thruster in various locations, both attached directly to a pedal, to the pedal tray, and under the seat. It feels impressive initially on a pedal, but once it is mounted to the rig, it really just doesn't have enough mass to "shake" anything. Turn the power up enough and it will just rattle itself to death. To set the scene, I have 4-corner BST-1s and the Thruster just can't be felt over those. I would recommend a BST-1 at minimum.

I can heartily recommend this kit from slip-angle.com: https://www.slip-angle.com/

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That's very interesting, thanks. The slip angle isolators certainly look like a good option but not until I can move the rig to the to-be-built extension. Our house is a 250 year old farmhouse and the floor joists are just logs with the bark still on, everything moves and creaks so even with isolators the sound will carry. Certainly something to look at for the future upgrade.

For now, I'm not looking at something to push through a full set of transducers bolted to a rig, just something to give a bit of tactile feedback of slip through the throttle and abs through the brakes so the smaller exciters/transducers would be fine I'd have thought.

For the future though, those isolators and a locally sourced (I'm in the UK) set of transducers/brackets and amp look like a great option.
 
For now, I'm not looking at something to push through a full set of transducers bolted to a rig, just something to give a bit of tactile feedback of slip through the throttle and abs through the brakes so the smaller exciters/transducers would be fine I'd have thought.

Yes, then a pair of those exciters and an existing stereo amp will do just fine on the pedals.

For the future though, those isolators and a locally sourced (I'm in the UK) set of transducers/brackets and amp look like a great option.
The isolators work great in my house, and are available separately, for what that's worth. They come with great 8020 mounts, and spring rates chosen appropriately.
 

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