Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Wmacky]

Exactly, people need to understand that's not transferable, it is also very subjective. The only way is patience and personal experimentation.

Btw, I did reduce the Hz for gear shift at 28hz from 38 and like it better now on my side.

*Sadly I have opened a ticket with Simhub support because on my side the on / off and volume adjustment feature per channel does not work for me? So for now I can not fine tune my setup as I would / could.

Cheers!

Well sure. I know it's not transferable, I just think it's instructive to see other profiles, response curve decisions, etc. Especially for new people.

 

[Mr Latte]

Thanks for posting that. I wish more people would. It would be a great to help to new people seeing what choices other have made when creating effects. I'd love to see another post like that from someone that has added exciters.

About your RPM effect - I see the effect is set to INPUT which ignors the response curve, Is that correct?

If people goto a profile, copy it, rename its extension to ".txt" you can attach it to a post here.
All the user then has to do is when they download it, place it in the Simhub folder and rename it to ".siprofile" to then be able to try that person's profile.

As for effects transferring well from one rig to another.
Thats one reason the recommendation is to mount direct to seat/pedals sections and isolate.
This makes things much more usable between different rigs.

 

[EsxPaul]

Well, nevermind...I emailed yesterday and planned to call first thing today, but they’ve already shipped it. I’m either stuck with it, and the pain in the ass to mod it, or I’m stuck paying $98 in return shipping. Awesome.

Ouch. My apologies again, mate. It didn't cross my mind that they'd sell a Euro spec unit to the US region.

I would assume you'll be changing out the obnoxiously loud standard fan which kinda risks the warranty at that point anyway, so you might as well add that bridge wire and do the conversion.

 

[Callsign BH]

Well, nevermind...I emailed yesterday and planned to call first thing today, but they’ve already shipped it. I’m either stuck with it, and the pain in the ass to mod it, or I’m stuck paying $98 in return shipping. Awesome.

Can anyone help to provide me with some insight on what specific type of voltage converter I need? I know nothing about this type of stuff, so I don't have much confidence in doing the mod that Fire outline in prior posts....I think I will need to just separately purchase a converter.

The EU NX3000D is 220V and my US home will be running at 110V -- I think that is accurate (??) -- so I need a converter to step up or down? Or should I simplify and buy one that does both? I'm just looking to find a reliable but cheap one on Amazon so this headache can be done with.

 

[FireWithin]

Can anyone help to provide me with some insight on what specific type of voltage converter I need? I know nothing about this type of stuff, so I don't have much confidence in doing the mod that Fire outline in prior posts....I think I will need to just separately purchase a converter.

The EU NX3000D is 220V and my US home will be running at 110V -- I think that is accurate (??) -- so I need a converter to step up or down? Or should I simplify and buy one that does both? I'm just looking to find a reliable but cheap one on Amazon so this headache can be done with.

Well, your oven is on 220v (you have 220v in your house)
If your not comfortable doing it yourself pay a pro 20$ to do it. Much simpler/ and cleaner then a converter IMO.

Cheers!

 

[Mr Latte]

Empirically the RPM works well and gives me a nice initial rev when the engine kicks over and then settles into a lumpy idle.

I experimented until it felt right to me.

Sadly, I don't believe much can be directly transferred from one rig to another. Every time I changed how my transducers were mounted, the frequencies that worked well changed, sometimes dramatically.

Yeah the frequencies you use are a good example of the point I was making.
Many of them are centered within that 30-50Hz or so range I expected.

We know why this is, as it's what comes across as feeling better on many budget units, which people are always tempted to then use and use and use again. This then further increases the amplitude of those frequencies that makes it even harder to then feel other frequencies from the unit that it doesn't produce so well or is just not capable of producing.

This is one of the disadvantages of standard installations and relying on effects being fully generated on a single unit. The best tactile is more achievable when you can use 1-200Hz but no single unit is capable of achieving both great low bass and superb high detailing.

As for rpm and immersion, real cars use much more than 60Hz for their engine vibration/harmonics.
If we seek to take things a lot further for immersion with tactile (as many take other areas seriously) then its clear we need that greater usable frequency range and learn to build effects that can offer much more variation and detail.

Its down to users themselves how far they want to take it or go.

 

[Mr Latte]

Well, nevermind...I emailed yesterday and planned to call first thing today, but they’ve already shipped it. I’m either stuck with it, and the pain in the ass to mod it, or I’m stuck paying $98 in return shipping. Awesome.

Raise a case with them that you were not informed it wasn't 120v
Contact your bank/payment of the missold item.

What happens if you refuse delivery, who then pays return postage

 

[Callsign BH]

Raise a case with them that you were not informed it wasn't 120v
Contact your bank/payment of the missold item.

What happens if you refuse delivery, who then pays return postage

If I refuse delivery, they said they will charge me the $98 in return shipping. I then took to a live chat with a rep on their website and they again shoved that down my throat, despite me explaining to them their mistake of not notating the EU voltage issue for US customers. They suggested I make that suggestion to their Marketing inbox. They also admitted this happens often and that prior customers have found cheap converters on Amazon that work well.

Perhaps I should involve Chase (my bank), as you said.

 

[Mr Latte]

How much is this one costing to those I linked?

I would try to come to some agreement in that you pay part of the return cost.
It won't cost them that amount they charge.

If you paid by credit card then you have more protection but USA and UK laws differ when it comes to (sale of goods act) in how they must match their description and be fit for usage/purpose.

To me them shipping a unit with incorrect voltage/knowing its not suited is not "fit for purpose"
Your USA laws may differ.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Synopsis, unless I want to add more exciters and transducers what I've got is what I'm going to get.

 

[Callsign BH]

How much is this one costing to those I linked?

I would try to come to some agreement in that you pay part of the return cost.
It won't cost them that amount they charge.

If you paid by credit card then you have more protection but USA and UK laws differ when it comes to (sale of goods act) in how they must match their description and be fit for usage/purpose.

To me them shipping a unit with incorrect voltage/knowing its not suited is not "fit for purpose"
Your USA laws may differ.

Assuming I don't get an import bill (I never have in the past, on MANY orders from EU), this unit cost me $325 and the Sweetwater one after tax would cost me $375. $50 cheaper, but includes a massive headache as well

 

[FireWithin]

Assuming I don't get an import bill (I never have in the past, on MANY orders from EU), this unit cost me $325 and the Sweetwater one after tax would cost me $375. $50 cheaper, but includes a massive headache as well

Maybe we should create a new thread on your struggle? And the multiple solutions . .
I feel we have a certain responsibility here. Like I said those rack amp are often used at 220v in North America.

 

[Wmacky]

Do you have any friends that solder? That is a pretty quick fix. Like a 5 minute job for a hobbyist. I would go that route, especially with the good pricing.

 

[FireWithin]

Do you have any friends that solder? That is a pretty quick fix. Like a 5 minute job for a hobbyist. I would go that route, especially with the good pricing.

Cant stress that enough ! The amp is exactly the same minus the bridge & right fuse.

 

[Callsign BH]

I have a soldering iron and all the tools here, I would just need to know:

1. What spec wire to use
2. What fuse specifically I need, and where to put it (the prior picture just showed 2 blank spots, do they go in both?)

Also, I am assuming I need a US power cable to replace the funky EU plug style. What specs for that?

 

[Mr Latte]

Synopsis, unless I want to add more exciters and transducers what I've got is what I'm going to get.

Confirm again what you use in transducers as showing 4 channels?
I assume the BK is 4?

Lets look at how your using what you have

 

[RCHeliguy]

Front Left and Right #1 and #2 ( not worried about stereo separation )
Isolated surgical tubing running the length of the bolt with light lubricant so it doesn't bind on the plate.
Soft Sorbothane cushions. Captured nut so it can't clang against the bottom.
No longer pinned at the top center. Since I went to these 3D printed parts the 4 bolts are held vertical enough to keep the plate steady.

RPM and effects felt in the wheel, shifters and hand brake. #3
Hard mount to frame.

And the Seat which is #4
Isolated from frame by NLRv3 pivot point. 40x40 profile bolted to seat brackets

 

[Mr Latte]

So confirming the seat only has the BK then
How much are the vibes from the BK felt at the pedals?


Use spoiler maybe?
Show images of the effect layers that use the BK on the seat
Have expanded to we see settings.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I've never noticed feeling anything from the BK at the pedals, or from the pedals to the seat.

Use Spoiler? Not sure what you are asking.
I thought I had everything expanded out already.

You would probably like some video showing exactly how much vibration is making it through.
You have finally peaked my curiosity about this. Need to run a frequency sweep of some kind to see what happens.

 

[FireWithin]

I have a soldering iron and all the tools here, I would just need to know:

1. What spec wire to use
2. What fuse specifically I need, and where to put it (the prior picture just showed 2 blank spots, do they go in both?)

Also, I am assuming I need a US power cable to replace the funky EU plug style. What specs for that?

- T10AH250V slow blow ceramic fuse 5mm x 20mm (just one you will see)
- Std power cable - yes (you probably have one around)
- Not sure of the wire gauge, it is thin. (board have small holes into it, when melting solder wire need be thin enough to be inserted by a small amount)

Cheers!