High End Tactile Rig!
Possibly for an optimal high-end tactile rig, if seeking to build up towards such for SSW could use:
Front Stereo = BKA
Rear Stereo = BKA
Cen & Sub Channels = TST 239*
Additional/Secondary Cen & Sub Units = BK LFE* (1 in seat ) or (1 each in seat & pedals)
* "Dual Role" on Cen & Sub channels:
Pedal Section = Cen & Seat Section = Sub
Hi,
I have a rig on order from Sim-Lab - a GT1 - which will be manufactured this week and sent to me next week. I have spent most of the past days reading just about every post I've found on this subject and thank you Mr. Latte for your dedication. It has been a very learningful and enjoyable experience.
I've tried to learn as much as possible in order to get a basic understanding of what and where I would like to go. And I hope that I with your help and guidance learn more and build an ultimate immersion rig?
I found the above quote in one of your latter posts - is that what I should go with?
I will also go with the iNuke amps - should I go for the 1000's or the 3000's and how many do I need?
I will go with SSW based on what I gathered from my reading and I will get the recommended sound card unless there is another one preferred now?
I will talk to Sim-Lab tomorrow regarding mounting plates for the 4 - should the be mounted similarly to the two Signman uses on his rig? How about the forward placement and also underneath the pedals - something similar for mounting under the seat?
The build can be done in the coming weeks - I have the time.
Also, I have time on my hands to document and test if I can be of any help of any sort in the future.
I have a lot of questions, but just wanted to touch base for now to see if this is something that would be of interest to help with?
Yeah the only difference I can see is the Concert is two ohm vs the lfe's four ohm. I assume as long the amp powers it, there'd be no real life difference when actually using it. Thanks mate.I'd pressume you'd be fine. Go for it
Yeah the only difference I can see is the Concert is two ohm vs the lfe's four ohm. I assume as long the amp powers it, there'd be no real life difference when actually using it. Thanks mate.
Well, not really. If you Google "tennis ball drum riser plans" you'll see its a very common cheap isolation platform, which hasn't gained the popularity of deserves in the aim racing world.It was a joke
It was a joke
Honestly a Thrustmaster T-GT is not going to stand up to that kind of usage. For a start people will use the wheel for lifting themselves in and out of the rig and that plastic quick release won’t last long. Same sort of things with the pedals they wont take much abuse from the kind of stamping they will be subjected to.Hello Mr Latte,
Nice to finally track you down! I read through the thread you started on gtplanet and have quite a few questions for you.
I am soon to embark upon building a racing sim rig that I intend to eventually use in a sim bar/cafe. It will be intended for public use. I shall be using a Tillet carbon fibre race seat mounted into a stylised tubular aluminium space frame/roll cage. The design I have will hopefully give a sense of being in a race car. To accommodate a range of driver heights - kids to people of professional basket ball player stature - the wheel will be fixed but both pedals and seat will be adjustable. My plan is to isolate the seat from the chassis using mountain bike rear shocks. Pedals using simple silent block mounts. The whole assembly sat on resilient mounts.
I have read this thread and have been astonished by the quality of some of the rigs posted. I don't really need to replicate the sensation of driving over a snail at 170mph on a wet downhill section of the Nordscheife but am looking to provide a tactile effect that would suitably impress a layman. I shall first be using a Playstation 4 Pro platform with various racing titles to choose from. Wheel and pedals are Thrustmaster T-GT. From what i have thus far read, PC based is the way to go but thats probably down the line a bit.
Because this system has to be designed to run hard all day, I am happy to build good quality stuff into it. I had hoped to speak with you before starting to get some hardware together but it seems you left the gtplanet forum. I am in the US right now and have bought two Buttkicker LFEs and two Clark Synthesis 239s. I shall return home at the end of next month and shall hopefully have a Behringer NU3000DSP waiting for me. Very soon after my return I shall start bending and welding tube.
I would really appreciate your thoughts on dealing with this digital optical output from the pro and how to get it to provide stereo signals to the amp/s. Positioning of the tactile units is going to be crucial too. I have some ideas but yours will likely be much better!
Reading this, you will have concluded that I am totally green. whilst daft questions from noobs must get a bit tiresome, this should at least be an interesting challenge.
I stumbled across these the other day ,reasearching seq shifters. Bizarrely enough searching the world and the fella who makes them lives within 15 minutes of me lol. Ive noticed they are selling well , still a bit out of my price range atm.
Hello Mr Latte,
Nice to finally track you down! I read through the thread you started on gtplanet and have quite a few questions for you.
I am soon to embark upon building a racing sim rig that I intend to eventually use in a sim bar/cafe. It will be intended for public use. I shall be using a Tillet carbon fibre race seat mounted into a stylised tubular aluminium space frame/roll cage. The design I have will hopefully give a sense of being in a race car. To accommodate a range of driver heights - kids to people of professional basket ball player stature - the wheel will be fixed but both pedals and seat will be adjustable. My plan is to isolate the seat from the chassis using mountain bike rear shocks. Pedals using simple silent block mounts. The whole assembly sat on resilient mounts.
I have read this thread and have been astonished by the quality of some of the rigs posted. I don't really need to replicate the sensation of driving over a snail at 170mph on a wet downhill section of the Nordscheife but am looking to provide a tactile effect that would suitably impress a layman. I shall first be using a Playstation 4 Pro platform with various racing titles to choose from. Wheel and pedals are Thrustmaster T-GT. From what i have thus far read, PC based is the way to go but thats probably down the line a bit.
Because this system has to be designed to run hard all day, I am happy to build good quality stuff into it. I had hoped to speak with you before starting to get some hardware together but it seems you left the gtplanet forum. I am in the US right now and have bought two Buttkicker LFEs and two Clark Synthesis 239s. I shall return home at the end of next month and shall hopefully have a Behringer NU3000DSP waiting for me. Very soon after my return I shall start bending and welding tube.
I would really appreciate your thoughts on dealing with this digital optical output from the pro and how to get it to provide stereo signals to the amp/s. Positioning of the tactile units is going to be crucial too. I have some ideas but yours will likely be much better!
Reading this, you will have concluded that I am totally green. whilst daft questions from noobs must get a bit tiresome, this should at least be an interesting challenge.
Honestly a Thrustmaster T-GT is not going to stand up to that kind of usage. For a start people will use the wheel for lifting themselves in and out of the rig and that plastic quick release won’t last long. Same sort of things with the pedals they wont take much abuse from the kind of stamping they will be subjected to.
Really you need to be looking at DD wheels which are designed for commercial use and high end pedals. They are actually stress tested for that kind of thing, it also means you can bolt the wheel rim to the shaft which makes it much harder for someone to try and steal. This does though mean you need a PC too as they aren’t supported on consoles but it’s something to think about as any of the Thrustmaster, Logitech and Fanatec stuff will break in that environment.