Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

EsxPaul · May 31, 2020

Mr Latte said:
My preference would be to put all the cabling under a floor section rather than on/at the seat. Having the 8 pole connection on the seat will work but personally, well I want to be able to connect/disconnect each exciter/transducer in an easy way.

This then makes it simple if one gets damaged or if I want to swap what units an amp is powering for future or other location testing.

I got some of These
Might be handy if you don't already have some sorted

Agree on easy disconnection being a big plus point. If I have things correct, the NLT8MP has the large 6.3mm spade terminals. I would normally prefer soldering onto those but I might use crimp terminals for setting up and being able to move stuff around if needed.

Getting my hands on some exiters would be a good start. They aren't available at Amazon and they seem to have disappeared from the Dayton site. I'm wondering if they might have been discontinued? There is a seller on eBay but he charges £10 shipping per unit, no matter how many you order!

I was going to check out the link you provided but it doesn't seem to be working for me.

@jamescarruthers thanks for the multiplug links. Could be another nice and neat way to do it

Mr Latte · May 31, 2020

Sound Imports are showing stock. I doubt they are discontinued more likely inventory issue with COVID and China

Thruster Exciter

Neutrik Fastner
Shop around some places charge £2 each
If ordering a bag Id buy some from you

Neutrik
I can't link PDF for specific products.
Select SpeakON then go to the downloads and you can get full installation and comparison docs.

EsxPaul · May 31, 2020

Thank you for the links @Mr Latte

I was starting to lose hope in finding some exiters and you come straight up with them!

The Canford site has the best explanations I've yet seen for Neutrik products, written perfectly for newcomers like me.

Mr Latte · May 31, 2020

EsxPaul said:
Thank you for the links @Mr Latte

I was starting to lose hope in finding some exiters and you come straight up with them!

The Canford site has the best explanations I've yet seen for Neutrik products, written perfectly for newcomers like me.

Id check these are the right size for what your buying as two sizes

EsxPaul · May 31, 2020

Gotcha, thanks. Yes, I'm looking at needing the 6.3mm type to go they way I would like to.

Mr Latte · May 31, 2020

What happened with the LFE did you get it?

Mr Latte · May 31, 2020

Not tactile related but more towards my build...
I'm looking a service that sells/cuts to size/shape aluminum or steel plates @(4-10mm) in UK but one that also ships to Northern Ireland without charging silly money.

EsxPaul · May 31, 2020

Mr Latte said:
What happened with the LFE did you get it?

I didn't unfortunately. Trying to deal with the fella was like pulling teeth. I'd send a message, he'd take 3 to 4 days to reply and then not follow through with anything we had agreed on.

On the plus side, I've just ordered the exiters from Soundimports so at least some transducers are on their way to me

Edit: You could try 'penninemetalsdirect' on eBay. I'm not too sure they'd do anything over 5mm in thickness but could be worth firing an enquiry off to them. I used them for some 2mm SS for my heel plate and they were very reasonable.

Actually, scrap that idea - They don't send to NI from what I can see

jamescarruthers · May 31, 2020

EsxPaul said:
Agree on easy disconnection being a big plus point. If I have things correct, the NLT8MP has the large 6.3mm spade terminals. I would normally prefer soldering onto those but I might use crimp terminals for setting up and being able to move stuff around if needed.

Getting my hands on some exiters would be a good start. They aren't available at Amazon and they seem to have disappeared from the Dayton site. I'm wondering if they might have been discontinued? There is a seller on eBay but he charges £10 shipping per unit, no matter how many you order!

I was going to check out the link you provided but it doesn't seem to be working for me.

@jamescarruthers thanks for the multiplug links. Could be another nice and neat way to do it

I got mine from MFAV - though they only do the Thruster. I wish I had got the Ultra now - based on the frequency chart it’s much more suited to our uses.

Mr Latte · May 31, 2020

jamescarruthers said:
I got mine from MFAV - though they only do the Thruster. I wish I had got the Ultra now - based on the frequency chart it’s much more suited to our uses.

Look far enough back over this thread around a year ago and you will see the comments I posted as several units were tried before deciding which was most suited to the multi-exciter installation.

EsxPaul · Jun 1, 2020

jamescarruthers said:
I got mine from MFAV

It's strange, I don't seem to have come across these shops in my previous Google searches, so very handy to have them in my bookmarks now, thanks to you guys in the know

jamescarruthers · Jun 1, 2020

Mr Latte said:
Look far enough back over this thread around a year ago and you will see the comments I posted as several units were tried before deciding which was most suited to the multi-exciter installation.

I don't really have any desire for a specific super low-frequency unit — so would prefer the extra low end of the Ultra.

Mr Latte · Jun 1, 2020

jamescarruthers said:
I don't really have any desire for a specific super low-frequency unit — so would prefer the extra low end of the Ultra.

Exciters paired with even a BK Gamer or BK Mini still works really well.
Obviously with Buttkickers, the bigger the BK unit used then the greater low-end response will be but even the entry-level BK units pair well with the recommended exciter.

Only advice but you should be seeking to obtain good low-mid bass as well as excellent detail with upper mid - high bass frequencies to achieve as much of the 1-200Hz bass frequency range as possible. That way it gives you more scope with frequencies in effects. Often people have a tendency to focus on the low bass output potential as a primary goal.

Certainly for me when comparing, the Ultras even smaller contacts, less robust case/build and tendency to bottom easier than the Thruster model just did not in my view warrant its slightly better bass and at the expense of reduced output for generated harmonics.

It should even be possible to use EQ to increase a little the Thruster models bass anyways to close that gap in output each offer and still have the other benefits it brings.

Buy both do your own testing, come to your own conclusion.

fasterbater · Jun 1, 2020

Chiming in after having not moved on my project for over a year. Health issues got the best of my time and mind...now that chemo has started and I’m off work for the next 6 months, I’m looking to enjoy my time with the sim again. Hodgkin’s Lymphoma if anyone was wondering...I’m also located in Montreal, for the sake of localized shopping options.

The Rig
Sim-Lab P1
Seat is a reclining GT Omega RS9
Pedals are Fanatec CSPV3

Owned Tactile
I have 1x BK-Advance sitting around that I purchased used some time ago.
I’m waiting on the delivery of a Behringer NX1000D purchased yesterday
7.1 on-board will be used for my tactile setup. Will add another USB 7.1 if necessary.

To be purchased
Considering purchasing either another BK Advance or whatever else is best suited to take advantage of the second channel of my amp. Looking to have a BK under the pedals and one under the seat. I could potentially have a BKA on either side of the seat as well, as the hardware connecting the seat bottom to the seat’s back the exact size and spacing needed to bolt a BKA in the upright position at either hip.

I am also looking to purchase 4 or 8 of the Thruster exciters with an amp (Douk 4-channel) or two to integrate into my seat, which is not a hard shell racing seat. I’d like to maintain the use of this seat for comfort, but wondering if others have experience using exciters with such a model. I’ve linked the exact seat into the model description above.

I think I actually managed to read every post on this thread since Mr Latte started his eye-opening journey into Tactile, which I think we should all be hugely thankful for.

So my “noob” questions will be minimal for the most part. I also hope to be able to share and inform at least a fraction of what has already been posted here during my own journey.

EsxPaul · Jun 2, 2020

@fasterbater I'm not qualified to chime in with suggestions for your setup but just wanted to say that I'm happy to see that you are feeling well enough to restart your project after going through what must be a unimaginably rough ride. My best wishes to you going forward.

I'm sure the gurus will be along shortly with some good suggestions to get you on the way once more

EsxPaul · Jun 2, 2020

I've got a couple of more questions of my own.

I believe you need to obtain a PSU for the t.racks DSP as that isn't included in the package?

Noctua NF-R8 redux fan - is there a preference between the 3 or 4 Pin version when modding the NX amp?

Brutal Deluxe · Jun 2, 2020

Squared Circle said:
@MrClusky
I'm afraid your idea won't work as expected (and nowhere NEAR optimum). Reason: You need to attach the shakers as near as possible where you want to feel them and on the other hand decoupled from the rest of your structure. Example: The front shakers should be attached to your "pedalboard" (black under the V3s) from below. The black board then needs to be decoupled from the rig by some rubber spacers. This way the shaking energy is where it belongs and not moving through all your rig.

VERY important additional thing to me was that I also had to decouple the whole rig from the floor. For this I used 19mm MDF on 23 tennis balls and 60mm of sturdy PE-mat on top. The 8020 rig is now placed on top of this construction. Seems like overkill but at least in my house my (VERY understanding) wife told me that the shaking is going through the floor/walls into the rooms below. I then sat her behind the wheel just to find out what she means. It was impossible to bear. So I invested a day into this base construction and now she does not notice the rattling anymore. And I'm really turning these shakers up, I can tell you

It's very hard for me to describe what I used and how the construction works but I will try to at least start a documentation thread with photos that weekend.

In any way, it's not half as sophisticated as MrLatte's concepts which by the way were not only inspiring but an absolutely necessary resource on this journey

Glad to hear that someone has tried this approach. I made a similar platform for a friend that plays drums in an apartment and doesn't want to fall out with his neighbours. It works great for his needs and was a fun project to work on. Cheap, simple and very effective

Brutal Deluxe · Jun 2, 2020

EsxPaul said:
I've got a couple of more questions of my own.

I believe you need to obtain a PSU for the t.racks DSP as that isn't included in the package?

Noctua NF-R8 redux fan - is there a preference between the 3 or 4 Pin version when modding the NX amp?

Not sure on the PSU. I did research the fans before purchasing and went ahead with this one;

Noctua NF-A8 PWM, Premium QuietNoctua NF-A8 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (80mm, Brown) Fan, 4-Pin (80mm, Brown): Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Buy

smile.amazon.co.uk

It works great so happy to recommend it.

Brutal Deluxe · Jun 2, 2020

Mr Latte said:
Not tactile related but more towards my build...
I'm looking a service that sells/cuts to size/shape aluminum or steel plates @(4-10mm) in UK but one that also ships to Northern Ireland without charging silly money.

I used these guys recently when arranging the plates for my pedals;

Aluminium Warehouse | Online Metals Supplier

Wide Range Of Aluminium, Steel, Brass, Copper & Easyfix Products. Order Online Today! Only Pay For What You Need With Our Custom Cutting Service. Get Up To 10% On Bulk Orders. Metals Cut To Order. Fast, Convenient, Secure.

www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk