Show us your Rig / Cockpit

it's almost finished...

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The new ClubSport Wheel Base V2 inspired me to make a V2 dashboard.

Like the previous dashboard it's mounted to the wheel base for quick and easy installation.


It's powered by 2 DSD32 boards, has 30 buttons, 7 illuminated toggle switches, 3 toggle switches and 5 rotary encoders.

For the front plate i used a real carbon fiber panel.
The dash is curved and i can add 2 displays and mount them on various locations.

I really love the porsche 918 RSR rim, but for me it needed a BMW logo. :D


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Do you still have the Fanatec Formula and Fanatec Flat1 rims? Is the Formula really only 260 mm outer diameter to outer diameter? Would you be able to get a precise measurement of it and the Flat1 as I'm trying to compare? Thanks!

P.S. Someone told me the Flat1 is actually 272mm, not 275mm, but I'd love to get another person's measurements. Thanks!

One more thing. If anyone here has the Fanatec GT and/or the Fanatec Classic, I'd really appreciate it if they could get a precise measurement for me. Thank you!!!
 
Do you still have the Fanatec Formula and Fanatec Flat1 rims? Is the Formula really only 260 mm outer diameter to outer diameter? Would you be able to get a precise measurement of it and the Flat1 as I'm trying to compare? Thanks!

P.S. Someone told me the Flat1 is actually 272mm, not 275mm, but I'd love to get another person's measurements. Thanks!

One more thing. If anyone here has the Fanatec GT and/or the Fanatec Classic, I'd really appreciate it if they could get a precise measurement for me. Thank you!!!

Yes i still have both (coverted for the AccuForce)

Both rims are nearly identical in diameter somewhere around 272-275mm. The Formula rim is a bit smaller (1-2mm max).

It hard to measure is exactly on the mm since it round shape. I doubt you will notice the difference :D
 
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Very much at the poor mans end of the scale, I knocked this up for £21 using:
  • Old bits of wood in the garage
  • A Ford Fiesta seat that was donated for free - slides backwards/forwards
  • Old wardrobe door hinge (for the flip up piece the keyboard is on)
  • Daughters old TV (DVD player dead so she got another)
  • £6 for one piece of wood I didn't have
  • £4 for 2 sheets of A1 black card
  • £5 for a roll of "carbon look" sticky backed plastic
  • £6 for the TV wall mount
The carbon look was a late addition hence I had to stick it on the already assembled frame....hence its a bit rubbish/lumpy in places (tho the light is making it worse) !!
Cash is tight at the moment, thus not great kit...Small TV, 1998 vintage Formula Force GP wheel !!!
But as money allows I will get a bigger screen and a T150 or something. Does the job tho....now to enjoy Automobilista !
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  • Old bits of wood in the garage
  • A Ford Fiesta seat that was donated for free - slides backwards/forwards
  • Old wardrobe door hinge (for the flip up piece the keyboard is on)
  • Daughters old TV (DVD player dead so she got another)

Car seats with sliders attached are excellent starting points. You get bonus points when you get them free! Repurposing the castoffs of life is always best.

Only thing I want you to consider is moving that display closer to the wheel.
 
Cheers Emery...I was going to have the screen nearer but was promised a 32inch plasma TV just as I was making the stand (which has since fallen though) and thought it might be a bit too "in my face". I'd need to slice the "desk" part to move the wheel forward as can't move the but the screen is mounted on.
General view that it would still be fine to have a 32" closer??
 
@Dorian Wood Are you happy with your Tilton Pedals? Is it hard to heel and toe with them since you can't adjust the space between the brake and accel? Currently on my stock pedals i'm comfortable with the brake pedal on the middle holes and the accel on the left hole, I use shoes btw. Thanks.
 
Cheers Emery...I was going to have the screen nearer but was promised a 32inch plasma TV just as I was making the stand (which has since fallen though) and thought it might be a bit too "in my face". I'd need to slice the "desk" part to move the wheel forward as can't move the but the screen is mounted on.
General view that it would still be fine to have a 32" closer??

As close as you can stand it! That allows you to set a realistic field of view that's wide enough to see mirrors and instruments. If I could, I'd have my 27" screens about 18" in front of my eyes, but the wheel motor gets in the way of the monitor base. Even a 40" screen is okay when it's 18"-20" away, as 6e660 famously shows:
 
@Dorian Wood Are you happy with your Tilton Pedals? Is it hard to heel and toe with them since you can't adjust the space between the brake and accel? Currently on my stock pedals i'm comfortable with the brake pedal on the middle holes and the accel on the left hole, I use shoes btw. Thanks.
I love them. The shape is more comfortable imo. Wearing socks I find its much easier to keep my feet on the pedals, especially under braking (I'm using a heavy GTEye spring). But I don't heel and toe as I mainly race with a sequential, so I can't comment on whether they're better for that. Btw you can adjust the space the same way you adjust the stock pedals.
 
I love them. The shape is more comfortable imo. Wearing socks I find its much easier to keep my feet on the pedals, especially under braking (I'm using a heavy GTEye spring). But I don't heel and toe as I mainly race with a sequential, so I can't comment on whether they're better for that. Btw you can adjust the space the same way you adjust the stock pedals.

Thank you! It is hard to find feedback with these pedals on a g27. I think i'll buy them, I already have the GTEye brake spring so i'll be a awesome combo.. Oh and nice rig love the choices you made especially with the speakers on the pedals and under your seat
 
Hey guys,

Just wanted to share my racing simulator. I finished it over the Christmas break and posted a couple high quality photos of it. I did a lot of research to come up with this design. Here was some items in my design basis:

- Adjustable (seat, wheel, and pedals)
- Pedals had to be able to inverse mount
- Ergonomically correct (used engineering automotive ergonomic design references)
- Had the ability to expand.

I couldnt find a better material than 8020 for the level of adjustability but there were two things that I don't like about it. It's that it is expensive and not very visually appealing. So I experimented with the idea of using MDF to hold it in. It solves two problems, minimizes the amount of 8020 and provides visual appeal.

I posted some pictures on Reddit of the final design and there was a lot of interest from people at building there own. I then made 1:1 scale plans for the wood so people could jigsaw or router their own wood and provided a cut list for people to cut or order their own aluminum extrusion.

PM me if you're intersted in this design!

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Gear used: Thrustmaster T300RS, ECCI Trackstar 6000 Pedals (attached to the T300 wheel based via a 'Ricmotech Thrustmaster to G27 Adapter), 2x TH8RS Shifters (1x set up in H-Pattern, 1x set up in sequential for a Handbrake), 1x TH8A Shifter connected to T300 wheel base set up in Sequential, Derek Speare GT1 Button Box, PC with GTX690, 3x LG 27" 3D Monitors, Corsair Strafe Keyboard, Astro A40 Headphones + Mix Amp Pro, Razer Tiamat 7.1 True Surround Sound Headphones, Asus Strix 7.1 True Surround Sound Headphones with Control Box
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Gear used: Thrustmaster T300RS, ECCI Trackstar 6000 Pedals (attached to the T300 wheel based via a 'Ricmotech Thrustmaster to G27 Adapter), 2x TH8RS Shifters (1x set up in H-Pattern, 1x set up in sequential for a Handbrake), 1x TH8A Shifter connected to T300 wheel base set up in Sequential, Derek Speare GT1 Button Box, PC with GTX690, 3x LG 27" 3D Monitors, Corsair Strafe Keyboard, Astro A40 Headphones + Mix Amp Pro, Razer Tiamat 7.1 True Surround Sound Headphones, Asus Strix 7.1 True Surround Sound Headphones with Control Box

Love the setup, but may I ask, why the two H-Pattern shifters on the left?
 

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