RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT

Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

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I have used it for several months. But recently I found this lut file can not let me feel the maximum steering angle about the tyres. (something like if I overdrive and steer too much, the force feedback should be decreased. In ACC, especially with ferrari.).
I try to use lut generator to make a lut file for myself, it does works although the feeling of the center range is still loose a bit.
What should I do? Would you wanna try it?
 
I have used it for several months. But recently I found this lut file can not let me feel the maximum steering angle about the tyres. (something like if I overdrive and steer too much, the force feedback should be decreased. In ACC, especially with ferrari.).
I try to use lut generator to make a lut file for myself, it does works although the feeling of the center range is still loose a bit.
What should I do? Would you wanna try it?
Hi,
Which LUT did you try exactly? And which wheel do you have?

I sadly could never test my LUTs in acc. The possibility got into the game with a update, when I already had my fanatec wheel.

In theory though:
My LUTs only remove the dead zone smoothly and then are completely linear to 100% ffb.
So it's the same like 100% gain and 15% min force.
Only difference is that I changed the 15% min force to a smooth curve.
Ofc min force needs to be 0% in the game with my LUTs then.


The only lut that ja difference is the gamma like one, which makes things feel stronger but you lose fidelity and the "recommended" lut, which uses a lower gain and then boosts the ffb behind the clipping meter.

But I have no idea if this really works in acc so maybe just try the "normal center" lut and see if that's better. With 100% acc gain then!
 
I use the 'recommended' lut with G29. Actually this is a temporary wheel and I just want to make it better than before. AC has a little of the feeling of the maximum steering angle.
I'll try your 'normal center' lut and I admit it won't be worth to cost your much more time indeed.
Thanks at all!
 
Managing this support thread isn't really costing any time. Feel free to post as much as you want :)

A little note about acc: even with my fanatec csw 2.5, the feeling of the maximum angle is very subtle in acc compared to other sims.
In my opinion that's pretty realistic though since these cars are quite heavy, super rigid and have powersteering.

When I had understeer during my safety driver training in my road car (mb c class from 1995 and Skoda fabia from 2018), the wheel didn't give any response.
It wasn't really becoming lighter. Instead it just stopped being "shakey".

Mainly I felt the understeer via g forces and trajectory not changing anymore, when I turned in further.

Btw, Niels Heusinkveld did a video a few years ago about the maximum grip often being beyond the peak ffb force.
With some cars, the optimum slip angle is right beyond the point where the ffb becomes lighter and he said that we should test to over-turn a bit to check if laptimes are improving or not.
 
Hi!
You got it all a bit wrong, but I was more confused than you before I understood it all, so don't worry!
A LUT is just a table with 2 rows of entries, that tell the game to output a different ffb level than normal.
Like this:
1 | 15
2 | 15.8
3 | 16.5
.
.
100 | 100

The Logitech G25/27/29 all have about 15% dead zone so my little example would simply push the first percent of ffb to these 15%.

I would simply save this table, which would be written in a standard txt file as example.lut and put this example.lut file into the documents/assetto corsa/cfg folder.
Then open the ff_post_processing.ini and edit the type to lut and the filename (last line) to example.lut

This tells the game to use this example.lut

My lut files are custom. I've created the values manually in excel.
To see what I was doing, I created a standard excel graph diagram so see if my values would create a smooth curve or have too harsh steps that would feel weird.
Lot of testing hours done!

The lut generator on the other hand creates a lut automatically, based on the wheel check results.
But in my opinion, wheel check is very questionable for everything apart the dead zone test.
And I didn't like the feeling at all. Felt worse than without it.

That's why I then learnt what exactly a lut does and created my own lut, manually with a lot of testing.

My luts are just a smoothed, curved minimum force. The minimum force setting always felt like either too much or not enough.
It's because it's not smooth.. The ffb simply starts at the level that you set and that's it.

Example:
Min force setting 15%:
FFB starts at 15%, then goes linearly to 100%.

My luts: ffb starts at 10% but ramps up smooth, but quickly to about 20% and then goes linearly to 100%.

So my lut feels smoother but also tighter than the min force setting.


The lut generator on the other hand does weird stuff... Not linear at all and it feels awkward. That's because wheelcheck measures how far the wheel rotates on its own, after you throw it with an ffb pulse.

But that doesn't have much to do with the ffb strength you're feeling, when holding against the ffb.


So what do you do with my zip file:
You just download it, extract it, go into the folder for your wheel, drag & drop the 2 files in that folder into your documents/assetto corsa/cfg folder and start the game :)
Thank you my friend. I honestly didn't have any sleep at the time of my question... but I put my lazy ass to work and actually figured it out quite quickly really. Just the huge wall of text really put me off as I am only used to video guides. Thank you again! and it's amazing btw, drifting with my g920 feels "real" the wheel actually moves if you get what I mean when trying to drift. Thank you again!
 
Thank you my friend. I honestly didn't have any sleep at the time of my question... but I put my lazy ass to work and actually figured it out quite quickly really. Just the huge wall of text really put me off as I am only used to video guides. Thank you again! and it's amazing btw, drifting with my g920 feels "real" the wheel actually moves if you get what I mean when trying to drift. Thank you again!
Nice to hear that!
I totally know what you mean with "the wheel moves like in reality".
Nothing feels better than unsettling the rear, push the throttle and the wheel runs on its own into opposite lock.
You grab it at the right position and control the drift with 2 fingers on the wheel and a lot of throttle control :D

Long text:
Yeah I know.. It's really a lot!
The main issue is that it's not much to change from default, but everyone who comes across my LUTs has already tried a lot of things do everything is completely different from default...

I thought about doing a nice video about it but I've spent a lot of time creating these for my own enjoyment and then spent multiple hours to write down the guide.
I couldn't be bothered to write a script and record a good quality video on top of it :x3:

And I don't have my Logitech wheel anymore, which would make things a bit hypocritical, when I can't show the effect with some live driving.

But there are videos out there! I'll link my favorite video in the description!
 
Did anyone else have this weird issue where the wheel suddenly feels heavy to turn in AC with this setup? I've been using RasmusP's setup with recommended LUT for a while and it felt awesome, just right and now suddenly it feels heavy to turn the wheel. I didn't change anything regarding the settings or FFB Multipler (feels heavy even on 75%...) I had this exact problem before, tried everything, reinstalling G-HUB multiple times, removing keys from registry, uninstalling from Devices menu, using different USB ports etc. Finally reinstalling Windows did the trick, the wheel felt normal again, now the problem is back and I don't really want to set everything up again, there has to be a cause for this. I managed to make it feel somewhat okay by making my own LUT file but I don't know why it would just change like this.
 
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Did anyone else have this weird issue where the wheel suddenly feels heavy to turn in AC with this setup? I've been using RasmusP's setup with recommended LUT for a while and it felt awesome, just right and now suddenly it feels heavy to turn the wheel. I didn't change anything regarding the settings or FFB Multipler (feels heavy even on 75%...) I had this exact problem before, tried everything, reinstalling G-HUB multiple times, removing keys from registry, uninstalling from Devices menu, using different USB ports etc. Finally reinstalling Windows did the trick, the wheel felt normal again, now the problem is back and I don't really want to set everything up again, there has to be a cause for this. I managed to make it feel somewhat okay by making my own LUT file but I don't know why it would just change like this.
Very strange..
Can you do a wheelcheck and create an automatic lut?
It's not about using that LUT... But I know how this automated curve should look like so I can spot if there's a difference and maybe find out what might cause the variation.

The only thing I could think of would be:
- g hub using wrong degrees (profiles are buggy)

- g hub changing the sensitivity to not be 50%

About ac: you're saying ffb multi at 75%?
With the recommended lut, it should be 50% gain in the menu and 100% in the car (pressing numpad + and - for the in car gain).

Or maybe your min damper level is bumped to something other than 0%?
Damper can make the wheel heavy but it should only be active while you're standing or rolling slowly.
 
I'm using 50% gain as advised and usually stick to 100% in car. I just dropped in car to 75 to see if it makes significant difference. As for G-HUB, I'm using only a default profile and it's set on all defaults with 900 degrees rotation, the wheel syncs with the one in the car so the rotation is correct. I never touched wheel's sensitivity setting. This is very strange to the point where I'm wondering if I'm imagining things. The resistance drops properly when I lock the wheels, but taking a hairpin feels heavier than it should. The wheel is oscilating when I turn it slightly and let go on the straight. It's like centering spring being on yet I have it disabled. However when I stand still there is little to no resistance (as intended with your settings). I will post a LUT file soon.

EDIT: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g_kLorknQ1WTvLctXJWeaaT7W44HpoaE/view here's my LUT file that I generated. With this one I put gain on 100% and use your settings, I also use FFB Clip (only with this LUT, with your LUT I don't because there's no clipping on 100%)
 
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I'm using 50% gain as advised and usually stick to 100% in car. I just dropped in car to 75 to see if it makes significant difference. As for G-HUB, I'm using only a default profile and it's set on all defaults with 900 degrees rotation, the wheel syncs with the one in the car so the rotation is correct. I never touched wheel's sensitivity setting. This is very strange to the point where I'm wondering if I'm imagining things. The resistance drops properly when I lock the wheels, but taking a hairpin feels heavier than it should. The wheel is oscilating when I turn it slightly and let go on the straight. It's like centering spring being on yet I have it disabled. However when I stand still there is little to no resistance (as intended with your settings). I will post a LUT file soon.

EDIT: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g_kLorknQ1WTvLctXJWeaaT7W44HpoaE/view here's my LUT file that I generated. With this one I put gain on 100% and use your settings, I also use FFB Clip (only with this LUT, with your LUT I don't because there's no clipping on 100%)
1626773505824.png

Looks perfectly normal so the wheel driver seems to be okay. (I think these generated LUTs feel awful, but it's a good check if a setting is wrong :p)

Do you feel the same in other games?

A bit of oscillating when turning slightly and letting go on straights is normal. It's the price for no deadzone. Not normal starts when you're driving straight and can't let go at all (without turning), because little bumps already cause the wheel to go insane.
 
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I'm slowly starting to think I might be imagining things lol. I still think the wheel feels stiffer than it used to be but it's still playable somewhat, the loss of resistance when locking the wheel is there so the ffb works correctly, I checked the settings, nothing odd there, it's all exactly as advised. Your words about my LUT being perfectly normal have been very reassuring. As for other games, RaceRoom feels very good, the resistance seems normal here, I also tried DiRT Rally 2.0 and it feels rather good, though you need to fight the wheel a lot in that game (default settings), I might need to adjust some things in this one.
 
I'm slowly starting to think I might be imagining things lol. I still think the wheel feels stiffer than it used to be but it's still playable somewhat, the loss of resistance when locking the wheel is there so the ffb works correctly, I checked the settings, nothing odd there, it's all exactly as advised. Your words about my LUT being perfectly normal have been very reassuring. As for other games, RaceRoom feels very good, the resistance seems normal here, I also tried DiRT Rally 2.0 and it feels rather good, though you need to fight the wheel a lot in that game (default settings), I might need to adjust some things in this one.
Hmm, then it seem that either something in AC is wrong or you're really imagining things :cautious::roflmao:
Are you using content manager? Is it showing the correct LUT? Is damper all set to 0?
Maybe ffb clip changed the in-car-multiplier for some cars?
 
Maybe you can find something wrong :roflmao: The multpler is fine, 100% always. If you won't find anything here, I give up, I'll just play it as it is. :laugh: Thanks for your help!

1626809698509.png

1626809599433.png
 
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Maybe you can find something wrong :roflmao: The multpler is fine, 100% always. If you won't find anything here, I give up, I'll just play it as it is. :laugh: Thanks for your help!

View attachment 489592
View attachment 489591
Auto adjust scale to match car steer lock!

FFB gets compressed (stronger) when the rotation degrees are lowered.
It's because if 100% are reached after 540 degrees instead of 900, the ffb increment per degree is higher and it feels heavier.

Uncheck that and try a few cars.
And restart cm a few times after going on track etc to check if it really stays unchecked (lut file selection tends to go back to what was set earlier.. Little cm bug).
 
I did and it doesn't seem to change much. Maybe it's true that it actually works as it should. :O_o: For now I'll just assume it works correctly but I'll definitely let you know if I find the issue (if it even exists lol). Have a good night! :D
 
Nice to hear that!
I totally know what you mean with "the wheel moves like in reality".
Nothing feels better than unsettling the rear, push the throttle and the wheel runs on its own into opposite lock.
You grab it at the right position and control the drift with 2 fingers on the wheel and a lot of throttle control :D

Long text:
Yeah I know.. It's really a lot!
The main issue is that it's not much to change from default, but everyone who comes across my LUTs has already tried a lot of things do everything is completely different from default...

I thought about doing a nice video about it but I've spent a lot of time creating these for my own enjoyment and then spent multiple hours to write down the guide.
I couldn't be bothered to write a script and record a good quality video on top of it :x3:

And I don't have my Logitech wheel anymore, which would make things a bit hypocritical, when I can't show the effect with some live driving.

But there are videos out there! I'll link my favorite video in the description!
Thank you again btw. You def don't need to make a video, the tutorial here is easy and straightforward.

Yeah, the Logitech wheel is just basics, you've to move on once you know and got the hang of sim racing. I myself am looking forward to in the near-future(inshallah) doing a complete revamp and going all out, lol.
 
Hi there. have G923.
there is a strong vibration on the curbs in the ACC. If you lower ffb in game, it becomes okay, but the steering wheel becomes very light.
 
The g923 has additional vibration stuff in it compared to the g29/g920.
I guess the kerb vibration triggers these vibration thingies.
You can lower them or turn the additional effects off in g hub (torque and audio effects afaik?)

My settings, in general, use the maximum dynamic and strength of the wheels so naturally, the kerb vibrations are quite pronounced.

Road effects is a multiplier for vertical forces. Lowering that will probably lower kerb rumble too.

Overall kerbs are always very harsh and "brutal" with Logitech wheels due to how the ffb motors work in these wheels.
 
Hi, I have a question. When I put the car in reverse and drive wheel acts strange. It just spins left and right when I drive on a straight road, any idea?
 
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