Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0
- Thread starter RasmusP
- Start date
Hi,
you can try!
It seems that some g920 have a higher gain and need another lut but some don't...
It's weird.
But just try out if you have such a g920 or not. Try the noclipbutstronger and if your wheel is vibrating and shaking like crazy, close the game and try the g920 lut
Wow big thanks for your insanely fast replyHi,
you can try!
It seems that some g920 have a higher gain and need another lut but some don't...
It's weird.
But just try out if you have such a g920 or not. Try the noclipbutstronger and if your wheel is vibrating and shaking like crazy, close the game and try the g920 lut
yes i had both factory new g29 & now g920 and its weird to say but it really has more gain, i only use it for drifting and its still not enough because i still need to make the wheel steering back by my self, do you thing your tightcenter lut could be better for someone who drifts only?
thanks again man
"More gain" misleading though. It's the same internal hardware, so same maximum strength. But for some reason the G920 has some hardcoded increased gain slider. It should also have more clipping but I could never test it..
It basically works like 13% minimum force. Still a tiny deadzone and not smooth when driving through a chicane or "warming your tires" with left/right turning.
If you want a faster rotating wheel while drifting, you don't need a tighter center. What you need is more gain, at lower ffb output.
If you don't want to have too much clipping, you need a curved LUT.
You won't feel as many details at stronger ffb, but the wheel will rotate faster at lower ffb outputs.
I created the "Gamma like LUT" for this.
Please try that one and check if your wheel is shaking and vibrating too much. Then I need to create you a "Gamma like G920 LUT" with less "deadzone removal" at the beginning of the LUT.
Here's how my gamma like lut looks:
So when the game gives you 40% ffb, 68% will be send to the wheel. But you won't get clipping, since the LUT doesn't go beyond 100% (1/1).
You should use 100% gain in AC and 100% per-car-gain (+/- on the numpad while driving).
Yes indeed it has a lot of clipping, i've tested your 5 luts besides DFGT and all including 920 are clipping like hell without even touching the wheel with the right settings you've selected on your screenshots, so i went back to non-lut and even disabling gamma, for me the basic wheel is good handling wise for drifting and the only thing i need is that the wheel counter steers by itselft, basically like you say more rotation i'm going to give a try to that gamme like and lower the ffb, can't thank you enough man"More gain" misleading though. It's the same internal hardware, so same maximum strength. But for some reason the G920 has some hardcoded increased gain slider. It should also have more clipping but I could never test it..
It basically works like 13% minimum force. Still a tiny deadzone and not smooth when driving through a chicane or "warming your tires" with left/right turning.
If you want a faster rotating wheel while drifting, you don't need a tighter center. What you need is more gain, at lower ffb output.
If you don't want to have too much clipping, you need a curved LUT.
You won't feel as many details at stronger ffb, but the wheel will rotate faster at lower ffb outputs.
I created the "Gamma like LUT" for this.
Please try that one and check if your wheel is shaking and vibrating too much. Then I need to create you a "Gamma like G920 LUT" with less "deadzone removal" at the beginning of the LUT.
Here's how my gamma like lut looks:
So when the game gives you 40% ffb, 68% will be send to the wheel. But you won't get clipping, since the LUT doesn't go beyond 100% (1/1).
You should use 100% gain in AC and 100% per-car-gain (+/- on the numpad while driving).
Could you describe what you mean by clipping?
I've seen a lot of different things being called "clipping" so it's just an honest question to communicate correctly!
For me, clipping is when the clipping meter in the ac pedals app (which shows the ffb output on the right bar) shows clipping.
It can't be felt and it's not the massive rattling that the Logitech wheels produce over kerbs.
FFB contains two things:
1. Direction
2. Strength
Clipping is when the strength is at the maximum and can't be increased anymore.
The direction is still there though.
So while you won't feel things like "more load on the front tyres at high speeds because the wings are giving more grip", you still feel almost all details, because the left/right information is still there.
You might not feel a slide happening right before its happening (loss of strength), but you'll instantly feel it when the rear starts to slide, because the direction will still be noticeable from the counter steer.
So if your wheel is shaking like crazy, rattling over kerbs, that's not clipping. That's just Logitech wheels...
About the vibration even with the g920 lut:
For drifting you need to out the "slide" ffb setting to 0%!
This setting gives vibrations, when the car is sliding or locking up or has wheelspin.
When drifting, you pull the handbrake = lockup = vibrations.
Then you slide = slide vibrations.
And then you control the drift with wheelspin = vibrations.
Maybe it's that?
I've seen a lot of different things being called "clipping" so it's just an honest question to communicate correctly!
For me, clipping is when the clipping meter in the ac pedals app (which shows the ffb output on the right bar) shows clipping.
It can't be felt and it's not the massive rattling that the Logitech wheels produce over kerbs.
FFB contains two things:
1. Direction
2. Strength
Clipping is when the strength is at the maximum and can't be increased anymore.
The direction is still there though.
So while you won't feel things like "more load on the front tyres at high speeds because the wings are giving more grip", you still feel almost all details, because the left/right information is still there.
You might not feel a slide happening right before its happening (loss of strength), but you'll instantly feel it when the rear starts to slide, because the direction will still be noticeable from the counter steer.
So if your wheel is shaking like crazy, rattling over kerbs, that's not clipping. That's just Logitech wheels...
About the vibration even with the g920 lut:
For drifting you need to out the "slide" ffb setting to 0%!
This setting gives vibrations, when the car is sliding or locking up or has wheelspin.
When drifting, you pull the handbrake = lockup = vibrations.
Then you slide = slide vibrations.
And then you control the drift with wheelspin = vibrations.
Maybe it's that?
Yes its where i also spot where it clips or not happy to know i wasn't wrong there, but also the wheel is shaking like crazy when i use the luts and like i said without touching the wheel but when i turn the luts down it stops which is logic, also i forgot to say that my kerb, road, slip, vibration or min force are all put to 0 for preference
Honestly i don't know where to find the slide ffb and how to put it to 0 so i won't be able to reply to those questions
Ah sorry! Slide = slip ffb settings! It's next to the road, kerb, abs setting.Yes its where i also spot where it clips or not happy to know i wasn't wrong there, but also the wheel is shaking like crazy when i use the luts and like i said without touching the wheel but when i turn the luts down it stops which is logic, also i forgot to say that my kerb, road, slip, vibration or min force are all put to 0 for preference
Honestly i don't know where to find the slide ffb and how to put it to 0 so i won't be able to reply to those questions
Is the shaking also there when you're standing still?
My luts can create shaking/vibration when standing still due to the very first line.
And then there is shaking when the gain is just too much in general.
With the luts, the shakings are there when standing yes, and damper strength is off, here is a screenshot of my CM settings with your lut
Attachments
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Hi,
not sure if I understood you completely. Your quote is screwed up and it's Portuguese ?
The anti-deadzone values are not only the first 2 entries. It's everything that's curved and not the linear part. Look at this:
The straight starts at about 0.300 on the Y-axis.
Opening the "noClipButStronger.LUT", you can see that the first few entries are:
(x-axis | y-axis)
0.00|0.10
0.01|0.12
0.02|0.16
0.03|0.19
0.04|0.22
0.05|0.24
0.06|0.26
0.07|0.28
0.08|0.30
not sure if I understood you completely. Your quote is screwed up and it's Portuguese ?
The anti-deadzone values are not only the first 2 entries. It's everything that's curved and not the linear part. Look at this:
The straight starts at about 0.300 on the Y-axis.
Opening the "noClipButStronger.LUT", you can see that the first few entries are:
(x-axis | y-axis)
0.00|0.10
0.01|0.12
0.02|0.16
0.03|0.19
0.04|0.22
0.05|0.24
0.06|0.26
0.07|0.28
0.08|0.30
Sorry for the delayed reply:
I can see you're using the recommened LUT. That won't work well with a higher-gain-G920 (apparently not ALL G920 are like that,but your's is).
Comparing the first 5 entries of the LUTs:
(AC ffb | sent to wheel ffb)
0.00|0.10
0.01|0.12
0.02|0.16
0.03|0.19
0.04|0.22
And the G920 LUT:
0.000|0.003
0.010|0.007
0.020|0.009
0.030|0.026
0.040|0.040
You can see that the output is completely different.
Are you sure that CM actually used the G920 LUT while you were testing it?
CM has some bug that sometimes re-changes the selected LUT.
To test this: select the G920 LUT in CM, go on track. Quit, close CM, start CM again and check if it's still showing the G920 LUT of if it changed back to the recommended LUT.
Looks like the sweet spot is your 920 lut indeed, thanks again man
one more question about the Damper Strengh if you don't mind,
is damper strenght only active when standing or slow rolling in all games and all wheels (like T300rs/TX etc. or only in assetto and logitech ?
The "damper" is a DirectX standard FFB channel. You have the main ffb channel, which is used for everything and then there are the damper and the spring ffb channels.
It depends on the game which channels are used for what. All wheels have these channels, my Fanatec CSW 2.5 also has "FF", "Spring", "Damper".
Assetto Corsa uses the damper channel for the standing still rubber feeling.
Assetto Corsa Competizione also uses that one but has "Dynamic Damping" as an additional setting. This dynamic one, similar to the gyro effect in AC, is part of the main ffb channel from what I know and read.
Dirt Rally 1 and 2.0 use the damper ffb channel for "wheel weight" and "tyre weight".
I guess sending some signal through the damper ffb channel is easier for the developers than calculating a damping algorithm into their main ffb channel..
I don't know any game that uses the "spring" ffb channel though...
Thrustmaster are a bit special because they basically have 2 main ffb channels. Constant and periodic.
I don't really know how it works but you basically get the same ffb like on a Logitech or Fanatec when you keep them at the same strength. What's constant and what's periodic... Is a Thrustmaster secret I guess
Wow i would've been sure that it would be the same in every game and some differences on other wheels, i guess they need to keep it simple before making it more complexThe "damper" is a DirectX standard FFB channel. You have the main ffb channel, which is used for everything and then there are the damper and the spring ffb channels.
It depends on the game which channels are used for what. All wheels have these channels, my Fanatec CSW 2.5 also has "FF", "Spring", "Damper".
Assetto Corsa uses the damper channel for the standing still rubber feeling.
Assetto Corsa Competizione also uses that one but has "Dynamic Damping" as an additional setting. This dynamic one, similar to the gyro effect in AC, is part of the main ffb channel from what I know and read.
Dirt Rally 1 and 2.0 use the damper ffb channel for "wheel weight" and "tyre weight".
I guess sending some signal through the damper ffb channel is easier for the developers than calculating a damping algorithm into their main ffb channel..
I don't know any game that uses the "spring" ffb channel though...
Thrustmaster are a bit special because they basically have 2 main ffb channels. Constant and periodic.
I don't really know how it works but you basically get the same ffb like on a Logitech or Fanatec when you keep them at the same strength. What's constant and what's periodic... Is a Thrustmaster secret I guess
Your knowledge is insane you should work with a wheel company man
big thanks for your time
Kindly Delete.
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Hello!
Haven't try it yet. In CM i don't have in AC inGame settings the options gamma, flter and sensitivity. In CM, at Post-Processing i have 2 sliders to set up. Center boost gain and center boost range. How i set up these? Bellow there are a checkbox "enable FFB post processing". If check it, it gives me 2 modes. One is Gamma and gives me to set up only gamma without filter or sensitivity. The second option it to load a LUT, the recomended one of your LUT.
By checking the "enable FFB post processing" and load the recomended LUT, i notticed it change the ff_post_process.ini file to:
[HEADER]
ENABLED=1
TYPE=LUT
[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5
[LUT]
CURVE=G25+G27+G29_NoClipButStronger_recommended.lut
and by load the LUT, i get a graphical line.
Haven't try it yet. In CM i don't have in AC inGame settings the options gamma, flter and sensitivity. In CM, at Post-Processing i have 2 sliders to set up. Center boost gain and center boost range. How i set up these? Bellow there are a checkbox "enable FFB post processing". If check it, it gives me 2 modes. One is Gamma and gives me to set up only gamma without filter or sensitivity. The second option it to load a LUT, the recomended one of your LUT.
By checking the "enable FFB post processing" and load the recomended LUT, i notticed it change the ff_post_process.ini file to:
[HEADER]
ENABLED=1
TYPE=LUT
[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5
[LUT]
CURVE=G25+G27+G29_NoClipButStronger_recommended.lut
and by load the LUT, i get a graphical line.
I'm a bit confused by the "In CM I don't have in AC inGame settings" ?
The "gamma, filter, sensitivity" sliders are in the "AXIS" tab of the controls setting. They don't change the FFB!
Gamma makes the steering react less at the beginning of the turn and more the further you turn. It's for gamepads!
Filter filters your inputs. If you're wobbling with the gamepad thumb-joystick, it filters it a bit.
And speed sensitivity makes the steering react less, the faster you go. Again, for gamepads.
So Gamma = 1.00, scale = 100%, Filter = 0% and speed sensitivity = 0% for steering wheels!
Anyway about the FFB tab:
Center Boost gain and center can left as they are at default. The gain needs to be 0%, the range has no effect then.
enable FFB post processing needs to be checked, as you did. Mode = LUT is correct.
When mode = LUT, the "gamma" value has no effect.
Your ini looks correct. TYPE is the "mode", so needs to be "LUT".
And the LUT Curve name needs to be the LUT you want to use.
CM shows you the loaded LUT as a graph then.
I created the LUTs by looking at a similar graph in Excel and adjusted the values manually until the graph looked like I thought it would feel best.
This is how it has to look in CM
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Perfectly understand! Thanks! I will try it today.
One more question. It seems that i need to check enable FFB post processing and load the LUT file every time i load CM. Is this normal?
When i close CM the ini file becomes like this:
[HEADER]
ENABLED=0
TYPE=GAMMA
[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5
and it changes again when i enable FFB post processing and load the LUT.
One more question. It seems that i need to check enable FFB post processing and load the LUT file every time i load CM. Is this normal?
When i close CM the ini file becomes like this:
[HEADER]
ENABLED=0
TYPE=GAMMA
[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5
and it changes again when i enable FFB post processing and load the LUT.
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Yeah that's a bug I had too..
There seems to be a problem with cm editing the ini and then resetting it somehow.
What I did to solve this, sometimes needed a few tries.. :
- start cm
- edit the settings
- close cm
- start cm and check if the settings are still correct
- close cm
- start ac via steam, the normal launcher.
- go on track with any car and track
- close ac and the launcher
- start cm
- check if the settings are still correct
- go on track via cm
- close ac
- check if settings are still there
- close cm
- start cm and check a last time
It's super annoying... But basically you need to launch the game via the normal launcher while the settings are correct.
That fixes it.
Cm and the normal launched both just read what's in the ini files and use these settings, so whatever you change in CM or the normal launcher will be changed for both.
(apart from stuff that only cm can do like track day with ai traffic on tracks like LA canyons)
