RCHeliguy
Premium
Let me know if this works.
This is a single take, stream of consciousness walk through with zero editing. Set your expectations accordingly.
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Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )
Let me know if this works.
This is a single take, stream of consciousness walk through with zero editing. Set your expectations accordingly.
I'm the opposite. I probably went too far on my first setup.
Some of the purchased Items are a P-1 cockpit, SFX actuators, Slaw RX Viper rudder pedals, WinWing throttle / Joystick, Diagma Yoke. DD wheel, Prosimtech pedals, Fanatic shifter (for now). HP Reverb / Pimax 5k+ VR. BK tactile with 3 rack amps
All that and I've not yet actually tried a modern flight or racing sim program. Haha. I don't need to. I know it's going to be awesome!
Some of the purchased Items are a P-1 cockpit, SFX actuators, Slaw RX Viper rudder pedals, WinWing throttle / Joystick, Diagma Yoke. DD wheel, Prosimtech pedals, Fanatic shifter (for now). HP Reverb / Pimax 5k+ VR. BK tactile with 3 rack amps
All that and I've not yet actually tried a modern flight or racing sim program. Haha. I don't need to. I know it's going to be awesome!
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RCHeliguy
Premium
Everyone has a different path 
All that matters is that you are happy with yours.
It got my initial Fanatec Club Sport control group never having played a driving sim game or having much of a clue about the equipment. I just wanted to make sure that I had good enough equipment to get an idea what it was like. I wasn't even sure I would like sim racing. My thoughts were that I got well liked equipment with a strong used market that I could easily resell if I decided sim racing was not for me. If I got sucked in I knew I would eventually go in deep, but it would take me a while to decide what I really wanted.
BTW I could see eventually going to a full motion system, but I'm not sold yet. I'd like to see it advance more.
All that matters is that you are happy with yours.It got my initial Fanatec Club Sport control group never having played a driving sim game or having much of a clue about the equipment. I just wanted to make sure that I had good enough equipment to get an idea what it was like. I wasn't even sure I would like sim racing. My thoughts were that I got well liked equipment with a strong used market that I could easily resell if I decided sim racing was not for me. If I got sucked in I knew I would eventually go in deep, but it would take me a while to decide what I really wanted.
BTW I could see eventually going to a full motion system, but I'm not sold yet. I'd like to see it advance more.
Slaw pedals are are top notch, i had saitek pedal and and thrustmaster when I got my sales I was blown away very very smooth
RCHeliguy -
Do you find the P-1 narrow when using the center mounted stick ? The cross members I received are smaller than expected, making the P-1 smaller than it seems in various pics. I'm a bigger guy, and although I have not assembled it yet, I'm worried it will feel confining? Especially with a center joystick? It appears that most of you sim guy's are skinny fellows! Why couldn't they have added a couple more inches?
Do you find the P-1 narrow when using the center mounted stick ? The cross members I received are smaller than expected, making the P-1 smaller than it seems in various pics. I'm a bigger guy, and although I have not assembled it yet, I'm worried it will feel confining? Especially with a center joystick? It appears that most of you sim guy's are skinny fellows! Why couldn't they have added a couple more inches?
RCHeliguy
Premium
I haven't had any issues.
I'm sure it doesn't help, but Heusinkveld's is even narrower.
That said, it is 8020 material. You can always replace the center width sections and make it wider. Just do it by a 40mm increment and you can add side pieces to the uprights so your wheel deck of choice fits. The profile isn't too expensive to do this.
I'm sure it doesn't help, but Heusinkveld's is even narrower.
That said, it is 8020 material. You can always replace the center width sections and make it wider. Just do it by a 40mm increment and you can add side pieces to the uprights so your wheel deck of choice fits. The profile isn't too expensive to do this.
Just read through the the thread. Very interesting read!
I will delve into building a P1-X soon myself, so just soaking up anything at the moment I can get about this stuff. Especially cable management will be one hell of a job I assume! Noted down the Flexo F6. Alos very impressed with your connector solutions!
Stupid question maybe, but how did you attach the safety switch of the SC2 to the rig? Adhesive? Or did you bolt it to the upright?
I was thinking of drilling one or two holes, use large washers and bolt it to the uprights with t-nuts.
I will delve into building a P1-X soon myself, so just soaking up anything at the moment I can get about this stuff. Especially cable management will be one hell of a job I assume! Noted down the Flexo F6. Alos very impressed with your connector solutions!
Stupid question maybe, but how did you attach the safety switch of the SC2 to the rig? Adhesive? Or did you bolt it to the upright?
I was thinking of drilling one or two holes, use large washers and bolt it to the uprights with t-nuts.
Cheers for the tip!
Seems I pondered about that needlessly.Since the P1-X is still on order all the other bits are already with me, my mind assembles the rig already and these kind of thoughts pop up in my head mid-imaginary build.
RCHeliguy
Premium
Finished my new button box with large VR friendly controls spread out so I can easily find them without seeing them. It's not cosmetically perfect, but I expect to eventually redo the bottom vertical panel with rotaries, but not until I need them and know how I want it laid out.
I had to transplant my towing strap lower on the frame and I many need to drop the wheel hangar an inch. The headset hangar is now an appendage of the button box.
I broke this out into a separate build thread if you want links to parts or more details.
www.racedepartment.com
I had to transplant my towing strap lower on the frame and I many need to drop the wheel hangar an inch. The headset hangar is now an appendage of the button box.
I broke this out into a separate build thread if you want links to parts or more details.
Building a button box exclusively for VR. Looking for input.
I'm thinking of creating 4 panels that can be removed and updated independently. This would fit on the left side of my rig. The main priority is making this so I can easily find any button or switch easily with my VR headset on. So far I'm using 41 out of 64 inputs the Leo Bodnar board allows...
www.racedepartment.com
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Absolutely! I was asking because it was my interpretation or what I would've done with it, when using your simulator. But maybe it was designed as something else entirely, I thought?
Being a VR setup I would think about camel backpack for drinking for example.
Was thinking to add a cup holder to my build too.
RCHeliguy
Premium
Unfortunately the front mount bracket would interfere with my button box, my mouse tray and I would have to replace my uprights with 50mm taller profile. I appreciate the offer! At one point I was looking at the front mount. If I change my mind I'll let you know.
RCHeliguy
Premium
Just when I think I'm done....
I have really enjoyed my VW Passat seat. It's very comfortable, but since I've been driving for longer periods of time with my Heusinkveld Sprint brakes, I've been using a lot more braking force which is GREAT for modulation and control, BUT my back is now feeling sore at the end of a drive because of seat flex.
I went ahead and ordered one of these NRG 302 Prisma Seats that Barry just reviewed. He claims everyone whose sat in it likes it and it should accommodate my 6' frame well.
NLRv3 Seat mover
1. I will be able to drop my NLRv3 pivot arm so my butt will be closer to the pivot point which should take some load off the motors and allow it to respond better.
2. It will drop some moving weight off my seat plus some of the 8020 material under it which should also help and make sure I'm not stressing things when some of my large friends come over.
Seat Transducer
I don't know how it will impact the transducer feel I get from the bottom of the seat. Currently the bottom cushion is spring loaded and the transducer is mounted to the steel plate supporting it. The vibration is very effectively transferred to the seat of your pants while in this seat. I need to figure out a good way to mount the transducer that won't stress the fiberglass shell.
Flight
I had been relying on the seat tilt mechanism to both raise and put the seat in an upright position. With this seat what I may do is use washers and 8mm knobs to mount the seat to the bracket so I can pivot the seat upright. I'll also likely need to drop the flight pedal support profile by 80mm. I'm keeping the aluminum angle attached to the NLRv3, but I'll likely bolt the seat directly to the angle while still keeping a piece of 40x40 on both sides that I can attach a front piece of 40x40 to for my flight stick and throttle on the side.
The good news is that there will be additional clearance between the flight stick and steering wheel base after this change.
I also think that I'm going to add some UHMW tape under the angle aluminum that holds the NLRv3 in place. I'm planning to bolt the seat straight down without sliders and I want to be able to tweak the seat position relatively easily.
I have really enjoyed my VW Passat seat. It's very comfortable, but since I've been driving for longer periods of time with my Heusinkveld Sprint brakes, I've been using a lot more braking force which is GREAT for modulation and control, BUT my back is now feeling sore at the end of a drive because of seat flex.
I went ahead and ordered one of these NRG 302 Prisma Seats that Barry just reviewed. He claims everyone whose sat in it likes it and it should accommodate my 6' frame well.
NLRv3 Seat mover
1. I will be able to drop my NLRv3 pivot arm so my butt will be closer to the pivot point which should take some load off the motors and allow it to respond better.
2. It will drop some moving weight off my seat plus some of the 8020 material under it which should also help and make sure I'm not stressing things when some of my large friends come over.
- Current seat with slides = 45lbs
- NRG Prisma with side brackets = 24lbs
Seat Transducer
I don't know how it will impact the transducer feel I get from the bottom of the seat. Currently the bottom cushion is spring loaded and the transducer is mounted to the steel plate supporting it. The vibration is very effectively transferred to the seat of your pants while in this seat. I need to figure out a good way to mount the transducer that won't stress the fiberglass shell.
Flight
I had been relying on the seat tilt mechanism to both raise and put the seat in an upright position. With this seat what I may do is use washers and 8mm knobs to mount the seat to the bracket so I can pivot the seat upright. I'll also likely need to drop the flight pedal support profile by 80mm. I'm keeping the aluminum angle attached to the NLRv3, but I'll likely bolt the seat directly to the angle while still keeping a piece of 40x40 on both sides that I can attach a front piece of 40x40 to for my flight stick and throttle on the side.
The good news is that there will be additional clearance between the flight stick and steering wheel base after this change.
I also think that I'm going to add some UHMW tape under the angle aluminum that holds the NLRv3 in place. I'm planning to bolt the seat straight down without sliders and I want to be able to tweak the seat position relatively easily.
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You could mount the shaker onto a plank and 'glue' the plank onto the bottom of the seat with industrial velcro, similar to what I did here.
RCHeliguy
Premium
So you are saying that industrial velcro has held up well over the 6 months since you wrote that ?
Does it ever start to come loose?
Does the transducer still come through loud and clear?
I assume this is the stuff you are talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B00114LOMM?th=1
I was planning to mount mine to the bottom where it's pretty flat. I could mount my transducer on a flat piece of aluminum and I still have a piece of 1/4" aluminum with the 4mm holes drilled to fasten my transducer. I just need to bevel the holes so I can put a recess the bolts on it and locknut it on the other side.
