Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

[RCHeliguy]

After rotating the mount for the collective stick, it seems obvious that the stock base would mount well directly to my chassis, so I'll wait to install this until I've removed the NLRv3.

I've ordered the 2 x pieces of 40x40 profile that the seat slider will bolt to.

So now I will wait for the big stuff to show up.

 

[RCHeliguy]

My left foot is out of commission for a while, but at least in hot laps I'm not any slower using my right foot for braking. If anything I think my right foot is more consistent.

I may be clutchless for a while, but I'm putting my dead pedal to good use

In other news Mr. Latte has responded and appears to be taking a bit of a sabbatical from the Internet.

 

[Ruttman98]

Good news about Mr. Latte!

 

[Ruttman98]

I may be clutchless for a while, but I'm putting my dead pedal to good use

This song isn't quite the right metaphor for your scenario:

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'm finding I like the medium blue springs on my pedal deck better than the light yellow springs. I'm surprised, but the BK-CT feels stronger with the firmer spring. The TST-429 is still plenty and turned down at the amp. Now I'm wondering if I should go back to the stronger red springs. However, part of this improvement might be improved linear bearing alignment, since I appear to be improving that every time I move things around, but overall it feels more powerful.

In particular the ABS effect feels super realistic even though it is coming through the entire pedal deck and not the brake pedal itself. My foot is only on the brake pedal during ABS so that illusion is easier to convey. I can also feel some of the ABS effect coming through the steering wheel which actually helps selling the realism of this effect.

It will be very interesting to see how the D-Box feels with all of this.

I'm expecting the G-Belt pulling while the D-Box tilts the whole chassis forward will work well together. Sadly I turned the braking/acceleration feature down on my NLRv3 because I didn't like being compressed against the pedals during braking and pulled away during acceleration. In rally when there is more motion in general this effect seems to work better.

Let me reiterate, that while I like this pedal deck design, getting the alignment right takes work. I am starting to understand how to do this better and using the hand jack and shims has made this easier, but alignment is super critical for the deck to move smoothly. The bottom line is that even though it feels better, I may be changing more than one variable at a time which makes overall conclusions a bit hard to make.

 

[blekenbleu]

while I like this pedal deck design, getting the alignment right takes work

Supposing you are aware of its sliding pillar suspension analog,
switching to a trailing arm or swing axle analog would address alignment stiction issues. Since actual suspension travel in this application is quit small,
suspension arm pivot points need not be ideal.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Supposing you are aware of its sliding pillar suspension analog,
switching to a trailing arm or swing axle analog would address alignment stiction issues. Since actual suspension travel in this application is quit small,
suspension arm pivot points need not be ideal.

I don't have it in me right now to redesign this. It's working well even if I can't recommend it for others because of the complexity and expense. In fact I don't think I'll be swapping the springs out or making any changes to it as it stands. It works great right now. So I'm going to LEAVE IT ALONE! Don't touch it or it will itch

I have too many other changes coming in the very near future and I would much rather call this good and focus on the others.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Not the place for what I was referring to.

 

[anton_Chez]

ABS effect is through tactile?

 

[RCHeliguy]

ABS effect is through tactile?

Yes.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Quick comment about the day.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Additional preparations for rig full motion.

1. Power cable to 7 plug 1800W heavy duty strip has plenty of room to plug into the wall with slack to move easily. No change needed.

2. Extended the 2 x 8 pole Neutrik connector cables for 8 channels of tactile will suspend both cables together centered in front of the rig. There is plenty of slack and the front connectors are designed to handle abuse.

3. Ordered 2 x 6' USB 3.0 extension cables so the USB cables will have no tension in them, and so they can be hung from a spring loaded stress relief directly in front of the rig.

I'm thinking something that clamps to my entertainment system that holds all the cables. I'm thinking of having an elastic band in the center.

4. Will take time to secure the plugs and cables for the G-Belt better at the controller box. I didn't see the need until now.

 

[RCHeliguy]

2nd iteration. This is a compression fit with two holes for a large elastic band to pass through to suspend the cables. There are two more holes for some bevel head M3 bolts the elastic will hook around as well as ease of access holes in the top so I can install those bolts. I think I'll print this to see how close I am.

For these two transducer cables and two USB cables to easily move with the rig. I only use one USB cable for driving, but have a second USB hub for additional flight controls when I use them.

Edit: And I just realized that I don't actually need to use screws. LOL! I can just thread the loops on each side and run the cable through both ends.

Done!

 

[RCHeliguy]

Because... why not.

 

[PWIstuDio]

#Damn Peer Pressure!
like/love the message

 

[RCHeliguy]

The cable relief fits and the elastic band is actually working in two ways. It's gently suspending the cables and it provides grip on the inside of the clamp holding this in place.

I need some more Galaxy Black. This gloss black is too glossy.

Looks like I need to clean my computer's air filters!
Edit: I just vacuumed the filters.

Edit: Done

USB extension cables are run and labeled.
D for Drive, F for Flight and since these connectors have an orientation, the letters make sure they always go together without a 2nd thought.

While either USB cable should work. I've noticed that when you change ports for a control that the OS tends to want to reload your drivers for that port.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'm following this guys advice and have swapped over to the 0.6mm nozzle and Arachne and mostly 0.2mm vs. 0.15mm layer heights cutting my print times in half.

Also ordered some Galaxy Black.

 

[HoiHman]

Thanks @RCHeliguy for the tip.

I will switch to 0.6 Nozzle with Arachne to.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Was just told that the next batch of D-Boxes are due in a week or two. I'm 3rd on the list and there are 30 units coming, so it should be coming soon

In the mean time, I'm still tweaking this simple cable relief / support.
It's a little more refined and has a place to hook the elastic band.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The orthopedist gave me some good news about my foot today.

He says that I just have a hairline fracture and stretched cartilage. More over he told me to take some ibuprofen, "Power Through" it and continue using it while it heals.

I was initially concerned I may need surgery and be off my rig for a while, but I got lucky


BTW the advice he gave me to exercise the area is similar to the advice for people with a herniated disc. He wants me to build up the muscles that support my ankle. When I mentioned I had a Vew-do board, he said that is exactly the type of exercise that would help.

I had this from when I was seriously into slalom skiing to work on balance.

Session 1 complete!
This has sand or something in the top coat to make it grippy.

Just looked at their modern boards. It looks like they now turn the "rock" which is the spindle under the board out of a glued together piece of wood rather than solid rock maple, but otherwise the graphics have changed but not much else. My board dates back about 20 years.