Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

Doesn't look like I'll be cranking up my brake pressure for a little while. The X-Rays look good as expected, now they are scheduling an MRI to likely find a small tear like a hang nail that someone will need to snip with bit of orthoscopic surgery. It's my left ankle so I can always just drive with my right foot. Looking forward to getting this taken care of!
 
I need to make it a practice wash my gloves from now on! I may also replace them more frequently.

I just got my new Moradness gloves and I like them. They are just a tiny bit snugger than my Sparcos, but my Sparcos now feel very grungy and scratchy inside and a tiny bit loose. Funny I didn't notice until the obvious comparison.

I turned one of my old gloves inside out and it was grungy and pilled up. That explains the scratchy and grungy.

My new gloves feel clean and very comfortable. I think I'll like them for a while.

The material seems a bit thinner than the Sparcos and the Sparcos have reinforced lower palms and touch screen material on the index finger and thumb tips. I'll miss that.

I need to put some hours on them.
 
I have the same sparcos, when they started to get past it on the inside (you know cause your hands come out smelling they have been somewhere terrible) I decided to replace them with the same ones. I wanted to wash them but wasnt sure how they would turn out, e.g. hard and not great.

So when the new ones arrives I decided to wash the old ones knowing I had backup if it was all bad. I just soaked them in warm water for a while and kept rubbing them softly. A number of loads of wwarm water turned a bad colour. In the end the gloves dried were soft angain and didnt smell, so I kept using them - not for too long as they already had a small rip that developed past the point of ignoring the new ones laying around.

So they do come out ok with some gentle washing.
 
I will say one thing negative about the Moradness gloves. My hands smell of chemicals. I may prewash them before I give them a workout.

Overall they appear similar to the Sparcos, I can't say if they are better in any way yet and they are missing a couple features of the Sparcos.
 
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Just removed the 3D printed fairings that covered up the aluminum caster mounts. I really like this retractable caster solution which is the 2nd iteration on what I first put in place over 3 years ago. I also still think the 3D printed fairings for them were pretty slick. Showing a little nostalgia this morning and it hurts a little to remove something that has been the perfect solution for so long. It's simply incompatible with what is coming.

I will be passing a pretty major milestone soon....

Once I remove the NLRv3 from my rig, I will have replaced EVERY LAST Sim Racing PART and CONTROL except for the underlying SimLab P1 platform which has been the rock I've built everything on.

I did trade my original horizontal wheelbase mount for SimLab's vertical wheelbase mount and my pedal deck has been through a somewhat ridiculous number of custom iterations, but the base remains!

View attachment 582581

Starting point when I built my SimLab rig:
  • Full Fantatec Club Sport Group
  • NLRv3
  • Seat out of a wrecked VW Passat.
  • retractable casters
  • Oculus Rift
  • i5-4590
  • Original Nvidia Titan (Maxwell)
  • DIY 100Wx 4 amplifier
  • Aura 50W transducers
  • Dirt Rally 1.0, Project Cars 2
  • Derek Speares Button box
For flight
  • Thrustmaster A10 WartHog Throttle & Stick
  • *Crosswind pedals - these are actually older than my SimLab chassis.
My wife was just reminding me last night, "I thought that you were just telling me that you were done with your rig, again." <sigh>
Simrig of Theseus
 
The good news is that after 3 hours of a combination of Dirt Rally 2.0 with an Anantara rim and iRacing with my Precision Sim Engineering GT3 rim there is ZERO shedding of any kind. That was my only complaint with the Sparco's. It dropped lots of little bits of white stuff all the time.

I think I'll be happy with these gloves for a while.

M for Mark :)

Newgloves_8329.jpg


My Sparcos are a lighter shade of grey now after 4 changes of filthy water.
Inside out.
washinggloves_8328.jpg
 
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Yes, my Sparco Arrow K also dropped lots of small transparent scales from the palm. After using my rig I could find them all over my steering wheel, the paddles, the shifter... Fortunatelly, now it happens to a much lesser degree.
 
My Sparco's dried up nicely and feel better now that they are clean. There is still some pilling on the inside so they feel just a bit rough inside compared to the new gloves, but they are still very usable.

The instructions with the Moradness gloves recommend washing with detergent, but just say not to machine dry them. The Moradness may be "slightly" cooler, but that is a very hard thing to give an objective comparison on.

Enough about gloves. Moving on :)

Spent more time in my rig on Sunday and did two things.
1. Tweaked the alignment of my linear bearings AGAIN.
2. Switched out to the medium Blue springs from the light Yellow springs.

Linear bearing binding is something that takes great care to get rid of. Once I had freed them up just a bit more( greatly helped by my new hand jack), the transducers felt like they needed a bit more damping.

At this point while I'm happy with this solution, I would be hard pressed to recommend this setup to others because of the setup involved. Maybe there is a better way to set the alignment of the linear bearings. I'll probably get there with time. I still consider this an experiment.

I used a shim to make sure that the profile was completely level from front to back and side to side. The jack helped me to set the exact height that I wanted. It also helped me to pry the front apart when I switched the springs out.

blueSprings_8343.jpg
 
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Got another twenty SS M8x16 bolts yesterday. I can't believe I ran out!

Below shows the two front braces laying on the floor with M8 bolts and T-nuts. They should provide a lot more rigidity to the front end.

The "temporary" seat support going in place of the NLRv3 is measured out below. 250mm OC between the RB isolation side to side and 420mm OC between the RB isolation fore/aft. But this will be temporary. The brackets are actually about 12mm lower than they are on the NLRv3. Great for knee clearance, but the foot plate may feel a bit too high. I may cut up some new aluminum brackets with staggered holes like the brackets that I designed with staggered holes with height offsets. I'd like to have the same height I have now and then some offsets to drop the height.

I was just thinking how nice it would be to have adjustable height steel brackets and a transducer plate for my seat. Maybe someone should design that ;)

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Looks like I'll be waiting a couple more weeks for my Gen5, so no rush yet.
 
This is the Sparco Track seat slider. I've been told it shouldn't rattle at all without any modification and I believe it. The lever springs are very strong and it feels very solid with zero play of any kind.

I am curious about fitting this to the bottom of my seat. The seat brackets bolted to my seat are a bit wider than the lever. Do you just simply install the lever first, bolt one side down and then simply pull the other side stretching it across? I'll need about 2cm of additional width.

SeatSlider_8350.jpg


It appears that I will be using the RaceBass brackets and transducer plate :) Not sure if they will get here before or after the D-Box which is currently looking to ship some time around the end of the month.

I will need to order a couple pieces of 40x40 profile to go between the seat plate and sliders.

I currently have 80mm between the top of my P1 chassis and the bottom of the Sparco Seat brackets.

28mm - Sparco seat sliders
40mm - 40 series profile
6mm - transducer plate

= 74mm total.

So for an exact replacement I would want the top of the brackets, 6mm above the edge of the chassis. The bolt pattern on the brackets will allow me to place this at 5mm above the chassis.
SeatBracketHeight.jpg

So I should have a seat position within 1mm of what I have now :)
 
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@RCHeliguy Take the lever whilst it isn't attached to anything and try to stretch it open equally rather than getting the 2cm stretch all on one side. If anything, you'll want to get it slightly wider than is needed so that it requires some slight compression to get into place when final fitting. That way it'll be under some tension and mitigate the tendancy to vibrate.
 
Not sure this is the right place to post this, but it appears that Mr. Latte of tactile fame has become unreachable. This has been for many weeks now. I don't know if anyone here knew him personally or would know if he is OK. If you do, please let me know. I'm concerned about him.

He has been a driving force for tactile as it has been his passion for many years now.

Since he has a Trademark on the Race Bass name and we cannot contact him, the Discord channel has been renamed NGT for "Next Generation Tactile" so that the tactile efforts there can continue and so we can support its members but without doing so in his name.
 
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Not sure this is the right place to post this, but it appears that Mr. Latte of tactile fame has become unreachable. This has been for many weeks now. I don't know if anyone here knew him personally or would know if he is OK. If you do, please let me know. I'm concerned about him.

He has been a driving force for tactile as it has been his passion for many years now.

Since he has a Trademark on the Race Bass name and we cannot contact him, the Discord channel has been renamed NGT for "Next Generation Tactile" so that the tactile efforts there can continue and so we support the members but without doing so in his name.
Thank you for posting, RC. Will pray for all involved.
 
I just popped into WhatsApp, hoping to see that Rod had been online but unfortunately he doesn't appear to have for several weeks. I really hope he's ok and has just decided to take a temporary break :(
 
Not trying to be callous, back I'm going to go back on topic. If anyone learns anything bout Rodney, I would still like to know.

Just got my new Virpil USB cables in. Two are USB plug to Round plug, like the one I've repeatedly failed to properly solder back together in the middle. One is a daisy chain cable to use between devices.

Edit: just ran the latest Virpil Calibration tool updated my stick base firmware, recalibrated and verified all the buttons work :)It was very frustrating having a number of buttons not working properly.

NewUSBCables_8352.jpg


On Friday my Virpil VPC Rotor TCS Plus Base Collective stick and VPC Hawk-60 Collective Grip will arrive :)
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Nice! I'm working on my rig right now, I added a VKB Gunfighter MK.III + MCGU + 200mm extension + VKB T-rudder MKIV. I bought the Winwing Orion 2 f-16 throttle just waiting on a mounting plate and then I can get some profile together to get it mounted to the left side of the cockpit.

My approach was a bit different as I have it setup currently where My flight seating position is further back than my driving position. I slide my seat back and I'm at my joystick Currently side mounted without the extension installed for DCS F-16 flight. I am also making it to where I will be able to center mount it if needed

Still storming all of my ideas for the throttle but I have some in mind. I am using many of the steel vesa mounting plates for transducers (6 x Aura sound and 2x dayton pucks).

I used to have the Auras basically 3 across the front and back, think like 4 corners plus 2. I recently moved 5 under the seating area and left one mounted to the pedal tray but it doesn't register as well even bolted to the thing using the vesa mounting plate. It may have something to do with the rubber feet on the Fanatec cs v3.
 
I love DHL, they say package is coming Thursday and I get it Wednesday. They say a package is coming Friday and then tell me it's coming Thursday between 4:30 and 6:30, then tell me I'll have it by 4:30 and deliver it by 4:00 :)

CollectiveStick_8354.jpg
 
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