HPP jBV Help needed

[Wrcfan41]

Hi all!
I have owned some Second hand JBV 2P pedals for about 6 weeks.
Knowing that the JBV's are a relatively new release I thought they would be perfect to upgrade from the Logitech pedals I had for 10 years.
Long Story short I have had a few bizarre issues of late.
I contacted Mark at HPP and he said he Can tune them up for me which is shy of impossible with me living in New Zealand and the complications with the Covid pandemic.
1. Throttle inputs were having large spikes. Making very smooth inputs turn into erratic Spikey inputs , Sometimes 15% throttle would jump to 80%. (have given the pedals a good Clean up and removed all dirt to no evail).

2. Slave cylinder O ring split while racing one day and Dumped all its fluid out on my carpet. (Resolved Easily)

3. I 3d modeled and built a Clutch pedal which worked well for some time. Recently now the X axis has started making random button Presses while using the pedal. The button Presses are coming from the HPP board which is effectively impossible seeing as the JBV now use an HPP designed board instead of the LEO bodnar bu0836 like in the PRX's so do not support extra Inputs. I have swapped clutch and Accelerator around between the X and Y axis and it does not fix the Problem with the X axis.

Lastly what SHOULD I be using for brake fluid/ Oil? Of course there are lots of conflicting arguments around this topic.

Thanks to all in advance.

 

[Kek700]

Edit.

 

[Jack_Kels]

Edit.

Hey everyone

So over this brake pedal, still having issues of it leaking fluid everywhere.

The main culprit being the plate on top of the master cylinder/piston unsure why it possible too small of o rings.

Another spot but isn’t as bad is the teflon seal where the threads have chewed though a little.

My last issue is how firm these pedals are, it’s like putting your foot through a brick wall for them to work. Unfortunately I don’t have all the rubber dampers that comes with them, just the orange and black one.

Again I haven’t change to 3in1 oil which may help the firmness of the pedal.

If you have any ideas on how to fix the leaks that would be great

Regards,

Jack

 

[Kek700]

After rambling on about how easy they are to bleed, recently rebled and cleaned everything thing. Now they are solid and because the master cylinder does not bleed oil they are the best they have been. ( I use 1 black and 1 orange and get quite a lot of pedal movement )
Leaking master cylinder cover plate. I want to say it is being pressurised by a seized slave cylinder !!!!!
But I am not convinced by that.
My brake pedal has zero movement before compression starts.
My advice would be strip them
Check the master and slave cylinder seals
Clean everything thoroughly.
Lubricate with thin oil.
Reassemble,
The master and slave cylinders should have a spring.
Put a tube onto the slave cylinder bleed nipple and fill the master cylinder with thin oil
and bleed them.

If the master cylinder has too much free play, the master cylinder reservoir bleed hole allows fluid to drain from reservoir, behind the master cylinder seal and piston rod , then onto the front cover *** plate, finally lets it escape onto the floor.

***
The cover plate that the master cylinder rod passes through

A video would say a thousand words???

 

[Jack_Kels]

After rambling on about how easy they are to bleed, recently rebled and cleaned everything thing. Now they are solid and because the master cylinder does not bleed oil they are the best they have been. ( I use 1 black and 1 orange and get quite a lot of pedal movement ) Leaking master cylinder cover plate. I want to say it is being pressurised by a seized slave cylinder !!!!! But I am not convinced by that. My brake pedal has zero movement before compression starts. My advice would be strip them Check the master and slave cylinder seals Clean everything thoroughly. Lubricate with thin oil. Reassemble, The master and slave cylinders should have a spring. Put a tube onto the slave cylinder bleed nipple and fill the master cylinder with thin oil and bleed them. If the master cylinder has too much free play, the master cylinder reservoir bleed hole allows fluid to drain from reservoir then onto the front cover *** plate finally lets it escape onto the floor. *** The cover plate that the master cylinder rod passes through A video would say a thousand words???

After rambling on about how easy they are to bleed, recently rebled and cleaned everything thing. Now they are solid and because the master cylinder does not bleed oil they are the best they have been. ( I use 1 black and 1 orange and get quite a lot of pedal movement ) Leaking master cylinder cover plate. I want to say it is being pressurised by a seized slave cylinder !!!!! But I am not convinced by that. My brake pedal has zero movement before compression starts. My advice would be strip them Check the master and slave cylinder seals Clean everything thoroughly. Lubricate with thin oil. Reassemble, The master and slave cylinders should have a spring. Put a tube onto the slave cylinder bleed nipple and fill the master cylinder with thin oil and bleed them. If the master cylinder has too much free play, the master cylinder reservoir bleed hole allows fluid to drain from reservoir then onto the front cover *** plate finally lets it escape onto the floor. *** The cover plate that the master cylinder rod passes through A video would say a thousand words???

I have done a rebuild recently that’s how I have damage the teflon seal, have a work around for that just need to do it.

I have just opened this cap not sure what it is if you could tell me what it is that would be great.

First of all not sure if there is meant to be a a o ring stopping it from leaking out, second looks like oring material in the fluid, will pull it apart again but do you have any tips to stop that from happening.

Also bellow is the picture of my makeshift dampener, that’s also the top cap where it’s leaking from

 

[Jack_Kels]

I have done a rebuild recently that’s how I have damage the teflon seal, have a work around for that just need to do it.

I have just opened this cap not sure what it is if you could tell me what it is that would be great.

First of all not sure if there is meant to be a a o ring stopping it from leaking out, second looks like oring material in the fluid, will pull it apart again but do you have any tips to stop that from happening.

Also bellow is the picture of my makeshift dampener, that’s also the top cap where it’s leaking from



View attachment 761561View attachment 761563

I also noticed in a thread about the prx pedals, the top plate has an o-ring, I believe when I rebuilt the brake I have forgotten about the ring or left as it put it aside for a little while.

 

[Kek700]

Ah, probably did not read your article properly.
I have the first model, Yours is the latest.
Like you I damaged one of the slave cylinder seals, luckily there are two, so I removed the damaged one. Put it back with one seal, never worked better.
But I have ordered a replacement, probably only fit it if I need to.
As you said above, beat me to it.
Use oil, there iare a lot of particles in your reservoir, so you do need to re-visit a rebuild and find the reason.
Reading my reply must have been confusing

---

 

[Jack_Kels]

Ah, probably did not read your article properly.
I have the first model, Yours is the latest.
Like you I damaged one of the slave cylinder seals, luckily there are two, so I removed the damaged one. Put it back with one seal, never worked better.
But I have ordered a replacement, probably only fit it if I need to.
As you said above, beat me to it.
Use oil, there iare a lot of particles in your reservoir, so you do need to re-visit a rebuild and find the reason.
Reading my reply must have been confusing

---

hahaha, I understood the important parts, with that o-ring in that image in my last article should I have one for my system?

I am also using o-rings as slave cylinder seals

 

[Kek700]

If you measure your slave cylinder piston inner diameter and the slave cylinder wall outer diameter you can buy an X seal for it.
That is what I have done.
An O ring seems like it is the wrong seal to fit. X seals use the pressure to force them to seal even more with the increasing pressure.
Your O ring will give way to increasing pressure.
But I am hardly an expert on the subject, just seems intuitively correct. :-/

 

[Jack_Kels]

If you measure your slave cylinder piston inner diameter and the slave cylinder wall outer diameter you can buy an X seal for it.
That is what I have done.
An O ring seems like it is the wrong seal to fit. X seals use the pressure to force them to seal even more with the increasing pressure.
Your O ring will give way to increasing pressure.
But I am hardly an expert on the subject, just seems intuitively correct. :-/

Ok thank you I get onto it soon, I have no doubt these pedals are awesome, just wished my Orion simulators responded to the their emails

 

[Jack_Kels]

Ok thank you I get onto it soon, I have no doubt these pedals are awesome, just wished my Orion simulators responded to the their emails

Update, pull them apart gave them a half arse clean lol. Put an o ring on the top plate filled them up with dot 5 and they are perfect, apart from one thing, the break pedal jitters/stick on the compression and depression. I did put brake rebuild grease in on the o rings.

 

[Kek700]

O rings creates more friction and Stiction, if you use a thin oil. That also aids stiction and friction.

 

[Jack_Kels]

O rings creates more friction and Stiction, if you use a thin oil. That also aids stiction and friction.

found some “mystery oil” which is designed to free up seized pistons and so on. The brakes are still too hard for my liking I have seen the simagic spring kit, just wondering if any of you guys know if it work with the hpp jbv pedal more so on the diameter of the shaft.

If you have any other recommendations for springs as I don’t have all the original springs that would be great

 

[Kek700]

I may have the same problem as you, the diameter of the slave cylinder shaft.
At the moment i am trying to get a noticeable step between 80% and 100%, this i have not been able achieve.
But i do not have your pedal stiffness.
Use motor oil 0W30, this has totally removed my pedal stiction and friction.
i have tried everything and the 0W30 is the only medium that works a 100%, people still insist on dot4 or dot5
and it does not matter what i say, they still go for a medium that is designed to work at 400deg C ++ , unless you can generate these temperatures in your sim hydraulic brakes, WHY.
i use a max of 25kg for my pedals and the supplied rubbers seem just perfect for this. it is just a noticeable setup of cups and rubbers that will give that step i am looking for and because of the shaft diameter i cannot just seem to find other pedals rubbers and springs.
i had thought the CUBECONTROL "oops " pedals after market rubbers, but cannot find out what their inside diameters are. ;-/

 

[stigs2cousin]

I really don´t know what the measurements of the the Simucube inner electrons are,
but my Heusinkfeldts (Sprints and Ultis) have around 8,8mm inner diameter of the brake rubbers.

Some time ago I tried to manufacture a "2stage" brake rubber by forcing a pipe into a soft/long rubber and have it bottom out on the separation discs, but that didn´t work out at all.

I think the two possibilities here are different stiffness rubbers with a cup outside that bottoms out for stage one or different stiffness springs that bottom out on it´s spring windings (EWW) or on a cup or inner spacer like the first very soft stage on many pedal set´s.

 

[Kek700]

yes Carsten, my shaft , "brake", is 9,6mm. this causes me a lot of problems of trying to find the correct rubbers.
My red rubbers compress with a maximum of 25kg, as you say if i could house it in to a metallic cup, leaving a 40kg rubber for the next 80% to 100% that would make my braking much improved.