BUILD LOG: Racing + Flying VR Rig

Hello all! New sim racer here and looking to start a bit of a build log for a couple reasons:
  1. It seems like you guys like this stuff like I do :)
  2. Because I know I am going to need some guidance and input along the way
Before I get into the present and future of my build, first I'd like to briefly share a bit of background. I'm 100% new to sim racing (currently focusing on ACC only, as I love GT3 cars), but I'm not new to simming in general...

BACKGROUND

Around mid 2014 I heard about Digital Combat Simulator (DCS) and given I spent my entire adolescence wanting to be a fighter pilot (before the Navy told me the dream was dead due to me being red/green colorblind) it seemed like something that might be relevant to my interests. Boy was I right! As I assume most of you have experienced, I quickly fell down that peripheral rabbit hole. Said "rabbit hole" become more of a "black hole" that I was falling down at hyperspeed, and the rest is history. From one HOTAS to the next, I ended up becoming very enthralled with the high-end boutique peripherals. Over the ~6 years since I started on DCS, I've gone through waves of being on and off with playing - "off" times being mostly due to my career taking too much of my time and/or other personal life obligations - and I've ebbed and flowed with my level of seriousness with playing. I've joined virtual squadrons and fought in the SATAL league there, I've read military flight manuals front to back to learn more about operating the jets, etc. To this day I still retain a love and enjoyment for DCS, although I haven't played much the past year or so.

Around June of 2020, after years of thinking "I should get into sim racing" (and being told as much by some of my flight sim buddies), I started to get serious about it. Again, I fell down that rabbit hole and became determined to get a racing rig put together. The twist this time was that my wife and I were expecting our first child in July, and we had just bought a new home that was undergoing a lot of renovations...plus there was a small global pandemic going on. Not exactly optimal timing, but life rarely lines up perfectly, so I said "Screw it" and proceeded ahead anyway. With the learnings from my flight sim hardware shenanigans, I subscribed to the "Buy Once, Cry Once" philosophy from day 1 here with the racing build.

I had never sim raced before, but I own an AMG and have always loved fast cars. In 2018, I did an AMG Academy Track Day @ Leguna Seca which was incredible and gave me confidence that I would love sim racing the same as I do flight simming. That day I was told by "Nipper" (my instructor for the day) that I "was a natural", but still I never took the leap to get a racing rig put together. Now that has changed...

PRESENT DAY BUILD

At the end of July, after the baby had arrived, I started ordering the racing rig hardware and checking hourly for the out of stock items to come back into stock. Below is what I settled on for the build and I ordered as soon as the items came back into stock:
  • Rig: SimLab P1-X (Black)
    • Add-ons: SimFeet + Seat Rails + Seat Slider + Keyboard Tray + Mouse Tray + Cup Holders
  • Pedals: Wave Italy WAVE FORCE MONZA - SIM PEDALS PRO
    • I ordered the 2 pedal set with no clutch, as I have 0 intentions of ever racing a car that doesn't use clutch paddles
  • Direct Drive Base: SIMUCUBE 2 Pro
  • Rim: Ascher Racing F-28 Wireless
    • I wanted the F-64 but ran out of patience in waiting for Martin to get this back into stock
    • I might add a new rim in soon, but TBD (would be a F-64 or a Gomez rim)
  • Seat: Sparco Evo II QRT
The Ascher rim took the longest to come back into stock, which was painful, but by the end or end of October I finally had everything I needed. Those few months of waiting were rough. Unfortunately, the waiting didn't stop there as our new home had some undisclosed water damage/issues in the basement, which required a very costly waterproofing system to be installed. This also meant that the finishes of the basement needed to be totally ripped out as they dug the perimeter of the cement up to install all of that. While this was quite costly, it did mean that I had a clean slate to work with for remodeling my man cave...so that is exactly what I did.

The contractors were here for a month or so getting all of that done, and at this point everything is mostly finished besides some things I am going to DIY myself, and then having the painters come (which we cancelled in early December due to COVID spiking again, and we will likely have them come in the Spring once things hopefully have settled down).

Here are some photos of the build....

PROGRESS SHOTS:

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FINAL PRODUCT:

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I have since cleaned up all the wires with some TLC on cable management. I will get more photos of that up soon.

NEXT STEPS:
  1. Add a pedal slider to the racing pedals
  2. Add tactile feedback to the rig
  3. Add my flight sim peripherals to the rig
  4. Build button boxes for both racing and flight
  5. Add motion
With the guidance of @Mr Latte , I've gotten a small start on adding tactile feedback to the rig. Yesterday I ordered a Behringer NX3000D + 2x ButtKicker Concerts. Configuration of the two BK-CT's is TBD, but I am likely going to add one to the seat and one to the pedals. Unfortunately, the amp is on backorder under the end of January (yay, more waiting!) but once that is here it will mark the next big progress I am able to make on the rig. Once I get this all set up, I will work on adding anywhere from 4-8 exciters onto the seat. On my old flight setup, I used a JetSeat SE from Andre, which was very nice, but I know it will pale in comparison to what I am working on for this build.

Regarding adding my flight sim equipment to the P1-X, I still have some more thinking/planning to do on this one. Since we all love photos, here are some shots of my current gear...

FLIGHT GEAR:

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  • Rig: WheelStandPro for TM Warthog
    • Add-ons: Left Side RSG module
  • Pedals: Slaw RX Vipers
    • Add-ons: Motorcycle damper
  • Throttle: Custom made Throttletek F/A-18C throttle
    • Add-ons: Made with Halls sensor instead of a standard pot, and I procured ~$500+ worth of custom switches for them to use in the build, these are the OTTO mil-spec switches that are used in the real jet
  • Stick Base: Virpil VPC T-50 base
    • Add-ons: Sahaj 15cm Black extension
  • Grip: Thrustmaster F/A-18C Replica
    • I also have my old A-10C/F-16 Warthog grip from when I had a TM Warthog HOTAS
I've got some plans to change some of this stuff up a bit as well, but one step at a time...

Regarding the button boxes, I have about $1500 worth of mil-spec switches, rotaries, and other misc stuff that I purchased when I was planning to build a 1:1 replica cockpit of a F/A-18C Hornet. These are mostly Honeywell and EATON/Cutler Hammer, and are incredibly high quality with a great tactile feel. I've also got a landing gear handle from a GR-4 Tornado fighter jet that I will need to build into one of the botton boxes as well, as well as a landing HOOK handle. My point here is that I've got a lot of the materials already on hand that I can use for a racing box, I'll just need to add a few things here or there maybe.

While I've never soldered a thing in my life, and am largely not "handy" whatsoever, I did acquire all the necessary soldering equipment before...despite never finding the time to use any of it :) Hopefully that changes in 2021, but I'm not so sure given it seems that newborns take quite a bit of your free time, and I've got a lot already on my plate. Someday, though.

That is all for now....the baby needs fed again...but I hope you've enjoyed reading. I'll get the specs of my rig and VR put up sometime soon. Looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts and feedback!

Happy New Year to all!

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Edit to add PC specs:

GAMING RIG:
  • GPU: Nvidia RTX 3090 Founders Edition
  • CPU: Intel i7-9700K
    • Still searching daily for a AMD 5900X to come into stock and allow me 2 seconds to be able to add it to my cart before the scalpers, and which point I will just go ahead and update the mobo, RAM, AIO, etc.
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master
  • AIO Cooler: Corsair H115i RGB Platinum
  • RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200
  • Monitor: Dell U3415W Curved 3440x1440
  • VR HMD: Reverb G2
 
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Checking in here to say I’m still alive! I’ve just been very busy of late with work and the baby.

That said, I’ve got the NX3000D all situated now, got the X3 set up (have just been using it on my headphones since it arrived, and have all my cables.

This weekend I might be able to find the time to split the 25’ SpeakOn cable in to two cables and get the banana clips put on...hopefully. Then possibly the following weekend the drilling of the seat and the install could commence. Fingers crossed.
 
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Congrats on your rig and nice thread.I am finding it very usefull to plan my setup.

you have left us with the intrigue.Did you do any progress?
No other progress, sadly. Still have all the tactile stuff just sitting here in boxes some 8-9 months later Personal life got very busy there for a while but hoping to make progress soon.

Even though my time allows now, I may just wait a little longer until @Mr Latte launches all the RaceBass stuff — I was planning to try to help him “beta test” before, but don’t want to do a bunch of work on my own to just have to redo it again later. So I’m trying to remain patient for now for that to release so I can get back to making progress
 
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(WARNING: not an exciting update at all).

As I wait and work towards figuring out how all of the tactile should be mounted and isoltated, I've got some general things I can work on. Going to try to knock these out ASAP.

  1. Split my 25ft SpeakON cable into 2 cables, and get the reb/black wires split and set up with the banana clips I purchased
  2. Do the Noctua fan mod on my NX3000D
  3. Wire everything up in a test setting, through my NX3000D and X3 soundcard, as I realized I've purchased 2x BK-CT's 9 months ago, along with the NX3000D, and never even tested that any of them work/are not faulty -- at the suggestion of @RCHeliguy I will just mount them to some spare plywood and run tests to make sure they seem ok
I also purchased my soldering iron and other related kit probably ~2.5 years ago and never even plugged it in to check it works. Anyone see a theme here? I need to test things or put them to use. So, I should probably test that as well :) This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MD12DYT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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If you go for banana clips I suggest you go for the more expensive locking banana clips, not the cheap ones. Otherwise you should be looking at a second method to ensure that they dont slip out over time, like a cable tie securing the cable near the BK to make it hard for them to move out.
 
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If you go for banana clips I suggest you go for the more expensive locking banana clips, not the cheap ones. Otherwise you should be looking at a second method to ensure that they dont slip out over time, like a cable tie securing the cable near the BK to make it hard for them to move out.
Thanks for that tip. These are the ones I picked up, any idea if they are locking? I believe these are the ones Latte had linked me to, but can't remember for certain. I can definitely swap them out for different ones if they are the nice locking ones.

 
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They are not, I would just secure the cable as well so there is not chance one could wiggle out with vibrations. It can happen and has, to me :) Thats all I did the second time. Mine were quite heavy , one fell on top of the other and thankfully the amp went in to protection mode but the plugs were pretty warm!
 
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Some good news in follow up to yesterday's update....took the NX3000D out of the box, plugged it in, and it turned on. That's good.

Took the soldering iron from 2.5 years ago out of the box, it also turns on.

Noctua fan for the NX3000D showed up today as well. I'll get that installed tomorrow.

Need to order an amp rack today or tomorrow, then work on the cable splitting....
 
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Just finished the fan mod on the NX3000D. It was the first time I’ve ever soldered, and I’m certain I did a terrible job. That said — I plugged the fan in and it turned on/ran. Does that mean the job was good enough?

Here is a video of the fan running. It’s so quiet that I feel like my soldering job was so bad that it’s not getting the proper amount of power. Probably just me being paranoid, but figured I would check.

 
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Those little TS-100 irons are great. They look like toys but outperform many bigger more powerful irons. You made a good choice. :)
It is certainly small and light to handle! I need to figure out how to adjust settings -- last night, I just plugged it in and used it. Perhaps that was part of the reason my soldering job was so terrible; but more likely it's just because it was my first time :)
 
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The Noctua fan's I just got for my EPQ-304 came with bladed crimp connectors. You insert two wires into them and then use a set of pliers to press shut and make the connection. I wouldn't think much of connectors like this except that I tend to trust them if Noctua included them.

I can hear the fans on my NX4-6000, but only with my ear close up. I can't hear the Noctua fans on my EPQ-403 at all. I used an adapter for my NX4-6000 fans, so no soldering there either.
 
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The Noctua fan's I just got for my EPQ-304 came with bladed crimp connectors. You insert two wires into them and then use a set of pliers to press shut and make the connection. I wouldn't think much of connectors like this except that I tend to trust them if Noctua included them.

I can hear the fans on my NX4-6000, but only with my ear close up. I can't hear the Noctua fans on my EPQ-403 at all. I used an adapter for my NX4-6000 fans, so no soldering there either.
Adapters certainly would have been less stressful for me haha, but the work is done now. Should my terrible soldering job fail, I’ll just get an adapter instead. The Noctua fan wire and 3 pin is unchanged/unharmed.

I can hear the fan, but like you said, only if I get very close to it.

Regardless, it was a nice way for me to pop my soldering cherry! Going to split my 25’ Speak ON cable this coming weekend, and then solder/connect my banana plugs. Planning to do it the way this guy shows, starting at 6:15.

 
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Flux on leads, flux on wire, tin the wire, get a bead on the lead. Then press the wire to the bead on the lead.

Try not to get cold solder joints. If the wire's solder melts through to the bead on the lead and all is molten together you should be good.
 
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Flux on leads, flux on wire, tin the wire, get a bead on the lead. Then press the wire to the bead on the lead.

Try not to get cold solder joints. If the wire's solder melts through to the bead on the lead and all is molten together you should be good.

The video I watched had me "spread the wires, mesh them together, and twist", then solder -- I've since found others methods (i.e. linemans splice) which includes tinning the wires first. I think that should help and I'll do some practice between now and my next project.
 
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Bit late but think these were the adapter cables to use on the replacement fans.
It then allows a user to return the unit back to the original fan with no sign of modification and with no soldering required.

These used to be quite a bit cheaper...

Tip: make sure you have the direction of the fan working the same as the original.
 
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Yeah, I suppose I’ll be in a tough spot if I ever need to send it back (doh!)

The fan is blowing in same direction, exhausting out of the back

When I get the second NX3000D, I’ll save the fan from that and use the cable. That way I have one fan ready to swap in, if it’s ever needed.
 
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PLANNED TACTILE BUILD UPDATE

As of this morning, I've invested to go even deeper down the tactile rabbit hole, as I placed an order for 2x Clark TST-429 Platinum's! :whistling: In addition to the other stuff I've been storing in boxes since purchasing early this year, here is how I am shaping up:

CURRENTLY IN MY INVENTORY:
  • Large BK: 2x ButtKicker Concerts (1 seat, 1 pedals)
  • Other Transducer(s): 2x Clark Synthesis TST429 Platinum Tactile Transducer (1 seat, 1 pedals)
  • Amp: Behringer NX3000D
  • Soundcard: Sound Blaster X3
  • Cables: All the required cables pictured/discussed previously in this thread, with Neutrik connectors
STILL TO ORDER:
  • Exciters: 4x Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 40W
  • Amp: Need another Behringer NX3000D, and for the exciters I will need a Behringer EPQ304 + t.racks DSP 4x4 Mini
  • Amp Rack: Still trying to decide which one to go with, but have been eyeing the Samson SRK Universal Equipment Rack Stands 8 Space
  • Soundcard: Need another Sound Blaster X3 for the larger stuff (BK-CT + TST-429, then probably a cheapo USB soundcard for exciters
  • Cables: Need duplicates of my other cables, and I'm sure plenty of other odds and ends
Overall, my install plan still remains....wait until @Mr Latte RaceBass isolation solution is available for purchase before I install everything. It's tough, but I am fine with being patient to wait and get it right the first time. In the mean time, I will complete the work on splitting my cables, wiring and testing the equipment I have in inventory, etc.
 
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Why dont you ask Mr latte a question, like - if I attached a plate under my seat mounts would that be compatible with a proposed racebase installation, i.e. would he envision that then mounting direct on to racebase isolators?

You could be waiting 6 months, or more, who knows, not using your gear. A setup that is not ideal and not isolated is still a lot better with that gear than one with none and I am sure you could do something that would just pop on top of the racebase stuff when ready. Ultimately, up to you though :)
 
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