Arduino Leonardo wheel.
- Thread starter Sieben
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By having directly cut out the relay from the driver, and having an idea of replacing it with a first bridge circuit there, instead of the relay, a quite reasonable question arose, why not actually give a chance to one BTS7960, together with the idle diodes and capacitors in a team. )
Driver with relay.
As a short summary, experience in using relays. To be honest, I don’t know what kind of assessment to give, because replacing the BTS and unscrewing the FFB 100% Gain, Constant and a feature in the form of Scale up to x2.5 times Constant in EMC09, I got almost the same steering wheel vibration in the center, as with the relay, but at much lower FFB values when there was a relay. For BTS, I left everything in a hundred and reduced Scale x1.5 Constant. If x2.5, the BTS chips get heat up more, so it is set in more “cautious” modes so far (Scale x1.5 Constant.)Again, can repeat that with the "relay driver" it pumped much more strongly at much lower values of force. The switching moment, by changing the direction of rotation, is also not noticeable, with a relay, as it may seem. The same thing in the center. But in short, if it were not for the "oscillations" in the center, as a result of a forced decrease in the strength of ffb, to eliminate it, an absolutely adequate and powerful playable driver would be obtained. If this is of course it's problem at all, i.e. see paragraph above. One can of course connect it to the bridge circuit, from the beginning of the experiments, and see what happens. ) Maybe even the first version of the diy driver will go, but with the correct binding for diodes, and condencers. It may even be possible to score on the need for deadtime s for the bridge.
BTS7960. As it was announced earlier,https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...ing-dc-motor-based-on-mmos.13019/#post-174094
the chip numbers in this bts are sort of from the correct series. (617)
The linearity of the base with a wheel of 1.4 kg
This curve, it seems even due to the fact that it is not MMOS that is used, but EMC. Arduino, and not an STM32. Presumably. Since, in the comparative test, one run was enough, and you get an even linearity curve, in MMOS, with EMC apparently has its own small issues, in this regard. But let me remind you that it was even too, when experimenting with the diy driver of the first version and with EMC09)
BTS7960
Some sort of countersteering etc
And with relay.)
Driver with relay.
As a short summary, experience in using relays. To be honest, I don’t know what kind of assessment to give, because replacing the BTS and unscrewing the FFB 100% Gain, Constant and a feature in the form of Scale up to x2.5 times Constant in EMC09, I got almost the same steering wheel vibration in the center, as with the relay, but at much lower FFB values when there was a relay. For BTS, I left everything in a hundred and reduced Scale x1.5 Constant. If x2.5, the BTS chips get heat up more, so it is set in more “cautious” modes so far (Scale x1.5 Constant.)Again, can repeat that with the "relay driver" it pumped much more strongly at much lower values of force. The switching moment, by changing the direction of rotation, is also not noticeable, with a relay, as it may seem. The same thing in the center. But in short, if it were not for the "oscillations" in the center, as a result of a forced decrease in the strength of ffb, to eliminate it, an absolutely adequate and powerful playable driver would be obtained. If this is of course it's problem at all, i.e. see paragraph above. One can of course connect it to the bridge circuit, from the beginning of the experiments, and see what happens. ) Maybe even the first version of the diy driver will go, but with the correct binding for diodes, and condencers. It may even be possible to score on the need for deadtime s for the bridge.
BTS7960. As it was announced earlier,https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...ing-dc-motor-based-on-mmos.13019/#post-174094
the chip numbers in this bts are sort of from the correct series. (617)
The linearity of the base with a wheel of 1.4 kg
This curve, it seems even due to the fact that it is not MMOS that is used, but EMC. Arduino, and not an STM32. Presumably. Since, in the comparative test, one run was enough, and you get an even linearity curve, in MMOS, with EMC apparently has its own small issues, in this regard. But let me remind you that it was even too, when experimenting with the diy driver of the first version and with EMC09)
BTS7960
Some sort of countersteering etc
And with relay.)
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Hi there!)
Some connections clear up with the power section to the schematic above) I can say that, the freewheeling diodes are an option, with BTS7960 usage. But also can be used for good with it. And, it is quite an obligatory to use this schematics, with complete diy controllers for powerfull motors.
Some connections clear up with the power section to the schematic above) I can say that, the freewheeling diodes are an option, with BTS7960 usage. But also can be used for good with it. And, it is quite an obligatory to use this schematics, with complete diy controllers for powerfull motors.
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Ahh, Diode bridge. Reading your design reminds me of my college time. Though what I am doing now is irrelevant to electronics, but it's been fun.
Need to get my dusty textbook out and re-learn some old knowledge.
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The linearity with no scale for constant in emc. Gain, Constant 100%, 1.5% min force in wheelcheck.
Heavy wheel.
That's great!)
Heavy wheel.
Ahh, Diode bridge. Reading your design reminds me of my college time. Though what I am doing now is irrelevant to electronics, but it's been fun.
Need to get my dusty textbook out and re-learn some old knowledge.
That's great!)
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Hello
Wow is all I can say! You've done an amazing job on designing and making this and making it better with every step!
I'm suprised not more people have been interested in this thread as from my very limited knowledge it seems like you've made the normal diy wheel and made the response timings for the ffb much better than before. How much of an improvement would you say this is from the beginning to the end?
Have you made any improvements since your last post?
I'm going to try and start learning how to do this because of this thread, and hopefully will succeed.
Thanks Ben
Wow is all I can say! You've done an amazing job on designing and making this and making it better with every step!
I'm suprised not more people have been interested in this thread as from my very limited knowledge it seems like you've made the normal diy wheel and made the response timings for the ffb much better than before. How much of an improvement would you say this is from the beginning to the end?
Have you made any improvements since your last post?
I'm going to try and start learning how to do this because of this thread, and hopefully will succeed.
Thanks Ben
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Thanks, got a few questions, might seem obvious may not.
With the new driver board can you physically tell a difference than before with the bts6960? I've seen the outcome of the wheelcheck from before and after but wondering how much this translates to real life usage, whether its just specs on the screen or if the car reacts quicker than before making everything feel better.
I'd like the challenge of making it as a hobby and learning more about electronics, so if it does make a difference I'd be fully on board making it.
Also wondering about the use of a chain drive your using. I normally talk to friends while driving so if I used a chain would that be far too loud? I don't really feel like deafening them too much lol. Also how does it compare against a DD wheel? I understand that belts don't give as detailed feeling as a DD but chains don't stretch as much as belts so how would these compare? I've also seen gearbox motors and wondering how these will do, or can you not use them due to needing an encoder on the final drive? I haven't seen anyone using these just belt or chain drive. Can't find much information on comparing these with the same setup, besides the usual logitech, thrustmaster and a far more expensive dd setup.
I'm looking at using the my1020 as a DD wheel with a powerful Psu 12v 80a, but worried about the power draw and torque, I'm not a big guy at all and the thrustmaster tx at 75% which should be at around 3nm which is a little too weak, but not by much and not as quick/detailed as I'd like, so I'd imagine that 4/5 would be plenty enough for me with peaks being higher.
If you know the answer to all of these that would be amazing.
Thanks Ben
With the new driver board can you physically tell a difference than before with the bts6960? I've seen the outcome of the wheelcheck from before and after but wondering how much this translates to real life usage, whether its just specs on the screen or if the car reacts quicker than before making everything feel better.
I'd like the challenge of making it as a hobby and learning more about electronics, so if it does make a difference I'd be fully on board making it.
Also wondering about the use of a chain drive your using. I normally talk to friends while driving so if I used a chain would that be far too loud? I don't really feel like deafening them too much lol. Also how does it compare against a DD wheel? I understand that belts don't give as detailed feeling as a DD but chains don't stretch as much as belts so how would these compare? I've also seen gearbox motors and wondering how these will do, or can you not use them due to needing an encoder on the final drive? I haven't seen anyone using these just belt or chain drive. Can't find much information on comparing these with the same setup, besides the usual logitech, thrustmaster and a far more expensive dd setup.
I'm looking at using the my1020 as a DD wheel with a powerful Psu 12v 80a, but worried about the power draw and torque, I'm not a big guy at all and the thrustmaster tx at 75% which should be at around 3nm which is a little too weak, but not by much and not as quick/detailed as I'd like, so I'd imagine that 4/5 would be plenty enough for me with peaks being higher.
If you know the answer to all of these that would be amazing.
Thanks Ben
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I was looking up on the wheelcheck program that you and most other people used, but then I came across this thread: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...based-on-seriously-flawed-assumptions.124937/. Here's a good discussion about it: https://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/...-based-on-seriously-flawed-assumptions.35286/
I shows that wheelcheck might be flawed way of doing a linearity test as it doesn't directly test the force measured, while this test shows that the T300 is perfectly linear using scales which wheelcheck says otherwise and it's quite a bit out.
I'm not too sure how much this will possibly affect other things in the program that you have used but it's an idea that using wheelcheck might not be the best idea.
I shows that wheelcheck might be flawed way of doing a linearity test as it doesn't directly test the force measured, while this test shows that the T300 is perfectly linear using scales which wheelcheck says otherwise and it's quite a bit out.
I'm not too sure how much this will possibly affect other things in the program that you have used but it's an idea that using wheelcheck might not be the best idea.
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Ben, the wheelcheck is fine absolutely. It is ok for different motors to have different linearity as for the default linearity test it makes and not only there. The problem of the emerged thread you mentioned, that it takes in account the default set up, for different motors, without any tweaks, the wheelcheck is also be made to determine to set up the wheels. It depends from many features of the soft you use, lets take EMC as an example. You can cut main gain but give more constant, and vise versa, and get the same linearity line. As well as determine the min force, for that amount of main gain and constant, the scale bar to them, all at he same time. Pwm frequency etc, all that depends much too. As for the game, I use another set of gain etc compared to the linearity test set ups, in order to show that perfect line here, but that do not like much for the game, cause it can be with less force etc. Don't bother much on it. All just 'bout the tweaks there to set up the wheel.
About the diy relay driver and bts. It's a not in few words comparison, due to some both hardware/software factors. Say, I can note just excellent change in direction of rotation in a game, no matter what EMC set ups u've got, while you get spin in control loss you been dusting out of the track. But with BTS it can get a bit an odd reaction even with full power or a bit less for the motor. But that can be neglected, couse fully satisfied with the bts layout that is been made for the race with all that countersteering etc ect. BTS works fine.
I do plan, may be to solder the H-bridge instead if the relay part of the diy driver too. With many cheats)
Chain isn't loud don't be afraid. If drift a lot it has of course the sound, but just racing etc just fine. And it don't get teared apart.
Geared motors don't know may be, can be used if will have all the same gear ratio that are used over here 1:3 ~ 1:8 depends on motors it's spec for it. You should have not less then 200rpm on the wheel while in full power as a guidance in this field. So it can be just slow for example, with slow reaction. With extra resistane to freewheel rotation, when it should have it. Shall have no backlash (slop) in it's geares. Chain & belts doesn't have it. Otherwise don't know, encoder can be mounted in a many ways still.
Your set up for the dd with MY1020 is about right. It will have smth like 6~7nm, depending on the manu 79 thread over here.
https://www.drivingitalia.net/index...ante-direct-drive-con-arduino-stm32/#comments
About the diy relay driver and bts. It's a not in few words comparison, due to some both hardware/software factors. Say, I can note just excellent change in direction of rotation in a game, no matter what EMC set ups u've got, while you get spin in control loss you been dusting out of the track. But with BTS it can get a bit an odd reaction even with full power or a bit less for the motor. But that can be neglected, couse fully satisfied with the bts layout that is been made for the race with all that countersteering etc ect. BTS works fine.
I do plan, may be to solder the H-bridge instead if the relay part of the diy driver too. With many cheats)
Chain isn't loud don't be afraid. If drift a lot it has of course the sound, but just racing etc just fine. And it don't get teared apart.
Geared motors don't know may be, can be used if will have all the same gear ratio that are used over here 1:3 ~ 1:8 depends on motors it's spec for it. You should have not less then 200rpm on the wheel while in full power as a guidance in this field. So it can be just slow for example, with slow reaction. With extra resistane to freewheel rotation, when it should have it. Shall have no backlash (slop) in it's geares. Chain & belts doesn't have it. Otherwise don't know, encoder can be mounted in a many ways still.
Your set up for the dd with MY1020 is about right. It will have smth like 6~7nm, depending on the manu 79 thread over here.
https://www.drivingitalia.net/index...ante-direct-drive-con-arduino-stm32/#comments
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Thanks for the reply.
I wasn't sure whether the wheelcheck affected things here as you are setting up the wheel rather than fixing the software as you would do in the thrustmaster/logitch software which has very limited amount of settings you can do, up to the EMC/MMos software. It's an interesting read anyway.
I'll more than likely do your driver to get it more responsive and the change of rotation which makes counter steering so much more enjoyable to use let alone the feeling of catching a slide when it's just about to spin. Of course the BTS will do fine, but if we have the ability to make it better then we may as well try and accomplish that.
I'd probably do the DD wheel as it'll feel more direct and being quiet at the same time, it'll probably annoy me with the chain noise but I'll definitely think about it if the torque isn't enough, or if the power consumption is too much.
On the power consumption note, how much power do you think will the my1020 motor use with a 12v 80a psu? I know that it will be capable of using all of this power but as its in stall mode most of the time with peaks only happening rarely when racing, I'm not sure if the motor will be using relatively little and only going up when there's a bump or high speed corners.
If you do start to upgrade the h-bridge again defiantly update this thread again, I'd be very interested in the outcome of this on going project.
I wasn't sure whether the wheelcheck affected things here as you are setting up the wheel rather than fixing the software as you would do in the thrustmaster/logitch software which has very limited amount of settings you can do, up to the EMC/MMos software. It's an interesting read anyway.
I'll more than likely do your driver to get it more responsive and the change of rotation which makes counter steering so much more enjoyable to use let alone the feeling of catching a slide when it's just about to spin. Of course the BTS will do fine, but if we have the ability to make it better then we may as well try and accomplish that.
I'd probably do the DD wheel as it'll feel more direct and being quiet at the same time, it'll probably annoy me with the chain noise but I'll definitely think about it if the torque isn't enough, or if the power consumption is too much.
On the power consumption note, how much power do you think will the my1020 motor use with a 12v 80a psu? I know that it will be capable of using all of this power but as its in stall mode most of the time with peaks only happening rarely when racing, I'm not sure if the motor will be using relatively little and only going up when there's a bump or high speed corners.
If you do start to upgrade the h-bridge again defiantly update this thread again, I'd be very interested in the outcome of this on going project.
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Ben, yea, I'd say generally the main feature of the wheelcheck that do has effect on the wheel enhancement is a min force determination, so that you will not have the ffb deadzone and a right responce then. All other stuff with thrustmaster/logitch vs EMC/MMOS generally all the same. Except for the ability to chose the PWM frequency, that do has enhancement impact on the diy wheels with heavy motors, by lowering it.
For the DIY motor driver, also have a look here. Very nice.
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/treadmill-motor-belt-drive-dc-osw.13744/
If you interested, mine tweaks plan on the driver schematics. All the same PWM+DIR mode, but just mosfets instead of the relay and no IC as a gate driver. But has limits on pwm frequency, for the correct operations, with that optos up till only for the 4khz.
And layout in a row for the freewheeling diodes. https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-mosfet-h-bridge-driver.13286/page-3#post-184024
You will catch a slide itself like it should be with BTS don't worry, it's a bit another thing I described. Whatever. I recommend to start from the BTS7960 still. And then, from the love of soldering and tinkering, use a DIY. )
For you motor you should have 2-3 BTS in parallel.
With MY1020 you should read all the thread the link above. Will be informative) And better take 1000W motor then.
Also have a look.
Belts.
And DC Servo motor. Check his channel.
Also check this channel. Ahoenk Siluman
www.youtube.com
BSSIM
For the DIY motor driver, also have a look here. Very nice.
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/treadmill-motor-belt-drive-dc-osw.13744/
If you interested, mine tweaks plan on the driver schematics. All the same PWM+DIR mode, but just mosfets instead of the relay and no IC as a gate driver. But has limits on pwm frequency, for the correct operations, with that optos up till only for the 4khz.
And layout in a row for the freewheeling diodes. https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/diy-mosfet-h-bridge-driver.13286/page-3#post-184024
You will catch a slide itself like it should be with BTS don't worry, it's a bit another thing I described. Whatever. I recommend to start from the BTS7960 still. And then, from the love of soldering and tinkering, use a DIY. )
For you motor you should have 2-3 BTS in parallel.
With MY1020 you should read all the thread the link above. Will be informative) And better take 1000W motor then.
Also have a look.
Belts.
And DC Servo motor. Check his channel.
Also check this channel. Ahoenk Siluman
ahoenk siluman
all about DIY, game, racing simulator, and hobby project... learn every day. trial and error. build something cool... please subscribe, thats help me a lot m...
BSSIM
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Thanks for all the links, just reading them now. It's a lot of very good information, just need to translate that into my build. But unfortunately I need to sort out a few other things out first of all before I start making it. My current rig isn't good enough to handle anything more than a t300.
I'll probably start with 3 BTS to be on the safe side, no need to over drive them and eventually break them with too high current. Then move onto your design when I have a working wheel, so that I don't feel pressured into figuring something out as quickly as possible.
Thanks for all the help.
I'll probably start with 3 BTS to be on the safe side, no need to over drive them and eventually break them with too high current. Then move onto your design when I have a working wheel, so that I don't feel pressured into figuring something out as quickly as possible.
Thanks for all the help.
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If you are talking about the driver, pls be aware with those diodes, supposedly they gives the oscillations from the certain amount of high gain in wheel center. Both relay and when with bts7960, but on different levels of gain.
There were no any of it, without diodes, when tested with small motor, and emerged when connected, with all the same small motor as well too. May be smth should be done additionally there. Or, do as Matthew turner does, just use the high voltage mosfets, (in the pwm side of the relay driver here) in order not to go for standalone flyback module. So that should be checked)
There were no any of it, without diodes, when tested with small motor, and emerged when connected, with all the same small motor as well too. May be smth should be done additionally there. Or, do as Matthew turner does, just use the high voltage mosfets, (in the pwm side of the relay driver here) in order not to go for standalone flyback module. So that should be checked)
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Outstanding job, I´m not even able to set the timer of my microwave.
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Made such layout with one in the PWM side IRFP460A for now (500V20A Mosfet) and throw away the flybacks and TVS supressors. I'll remind that there emerged the oscillations after some levels of gain amount etc with'em. With this, they dissapear. Thus the full power in gain, constant and scale can be made. (EMC 0.9)
The PSU is 12v12.5a.
On the tests.
Full gain, constant.
The PSU is 12v12.5a.
On the tests.
Full gain, constant.
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