The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

d69morpwr · Sep 27, 2018

Very interested in this. Has anyone thought of adding one more actuator for traction loss or isn't that possible with this?

Stevie_007 · Sep 27, 2018

Anyone got any uk suppliers for the

HoiHman said:
A redesign of the slider would be the fastest and easiest option. Especially for you mate, since you too know your way around in the 3d printing area.

Are you gonna use PTEG instead of PLA, like me?

Nick, can you please take a look at this with your expert DIY eye?

In my opinion both bearings are identical. Or am i missing something?

Left one in stock ordered and arriving this week, right one out stock but on the shopping list and delivery up to 56 days.

Hi, did the one on the left meet the requirements, They look the same

callumjtc · Sep 27, 2018

Wow, will be following this with interest, makes my DIY pedal project look a bit weak...

HugoB · Sep 27, 2018

d69morpwr said:
Very interested in this. Has anyone thought of adding one more actuator for traction loss or isn't that possible with this?

I’m also planning to add more actuators in the future so I asked in the german forum and the creator Michael said he is currently testing a version of the software that supports up to 8 actuators using two Arduino controllers. He uses the software to control seatbelt tensioner and RTL if I remember correctly and as soon as it’s stable it will be available to the public. I’m not sure how it will work, but I’m hoping to build 8 total actuators, 4 for the corners, 2 for front and rear traction loss, 1 for surge and 1 for seatbelt tensioner. But I’d wait until more is known about the double controller and apparently they intend to make a smaller version of the actuator for TL etc. that don’t need the same lifting spec.

sjb266 · Sep 28, 2018

Being in Australia some of the shipping prices are cost prohibitive... so...

Just like I did with the extrusion for my rigs, I am planning on going the cheap option first by sourcing all Chinese parts from Alibaba, AliExpress, and Ebay.. Then if they fail.. buy the expensive stuff... I will also probably order the MIGE model of motor and driver..

The inner profile of the German extrusion is slightly different to the Chinese stuff so I will order both and then edit the slider to fit the Chinese extrusion if need be..

This should open a few more door for those looking to do it a bit cheaper. Obviously quality of moving parts will be a huge factor but i'm willing to give it a crack..

I will provide links and cost breakdowns as they come to hand.

HoiHman · Sep 28, 2018

sdubbin said:
Anyone got any uk suppliers for the

Hi, did the one on the left meet the requirements, They look the same

Yes, they have the right specs

Mascot · Sep 28, 2018

I've been looking closer at the actuator assembly instructions and, as is often the case with these things, it seems like they could be a little clearer and a little more specific at times (eg "turn the slider near the end of the ball screw (extended position) - yet not too far!" WTF?) but maybe it's all a lot clearer with the parts in hand.

The trickiest bit for home assembly might be fitting the M8 helicoils (threaded inserts) into the extrusion ports. These can be a right bugger to do for a DIYer if a suitable thread isn't cut into the port first.

Since there's a 3DP 'cap' fitted at each end of the extrusion I wonder if it would have been possible to use 4no lengths of M8 threaded bar ('studding') with nuts at each end to clamp the whole assembly together, instead of using 4no M8 screws at each end. The design of the 3DP 'end caps' could be amended to include location nodes on the face that sits on the end of the extrusion to keep it located properly and locked in position once the nuts are tightened.

I dunno, just a thought. Maybe people won't struggle with fitting the helicoils and I'm worrying about nothing..! @HoiHman, how did you find them when you assembled your actuators? Tricky or no problem at all?

Steve D · Sep 28, 2018

Mascot said:
I've been looking closer at the actuator assembly instructions ......

And that's how it start's mate!

(I've even started digging in to SimTools 2.0

)

Am therefore watching this develop with both huge interest plus great admiration for those who have already provided lots of useful info and / or 'dived right in' without hesitation!

However due to time-constraints and not being particularly DIY-orientated, I'll probably be looking for someone to source and assemble the actuators and key parts for me, whether they are here in the UK or in the EU, for which they would be properly re-numerated. Believe our good friend on the other side of the planet, @anton_Chez, was looking for a similar arrangement as well.

Mascot · Sep 28, 2018

Steve D said:
And that's how it start's mate! (I've even started digging in to SimTools 2.0 )

Am therefore watching this develop with both huge interest plus great admiration for those who have already provided lots of useful info and / or 'dived right in' without hesitation!

However due to time-constraints and not being particularly DIY-orientated, I'll probably be looking for someone to source and assemble the actuators and key parts for me, whether they are here in the UK or in the EU, for which they would be properly re-numerated. Believe our good friend on the other side of the planet, @anton_Chez, was looking for a similar arrangement as well.

Amen to that. Sim racing is like diving wallet-first into a guilt-lined rabbit hole with the suction power of an imploding star... and we wouldn't want it any other way..!

There's nothing in this project that looks complicated at all - even the electronics and wiring seem remarkable simple (famous last words...). The 3DP parts will probably be the biggest faff for those of us without easy access, but it's hardly insurmountable.

Crikey, I wish there were projects like this when I was back at design school all those years ago. I had access to an on-site multi-million pound state-of-the-art facility with CNC lathes and milling machines, shot-blasting booth, waterfall powder-coating rooms, welding equipment.. you name it. And a fleet of eager technicians all willing to lend a hand. I'd have loved to design and build my own sim racing equipment but there wasn't much call for it when Microprose Grand Prix was still in its infancy, lol.

sjb266 · Sep 28, 2018

Mascot said:
I've been looking closer at the actuator assembly instructions and, as is often the case with these things, it seems like they could be a little clearer and a little more specific at times (eg "turn the slider near the end of the ball screw (extended position) - yet not too far!" WTF?) but maybe it's all a lot clearer with the parts in hand.

The trickiest bit for home assembly might be fitting the M8 helicoils (threaded inserts) into the extrusion ports. These can be a right bugger to do for a DIYer if a suitable thread isn't cut into the port first.

Since there's a 3DP 'cap' fitted at each end of the extrusion I wonder if it would have been possible to use 4no lengths of M8 threaded bar ('studding') with nuts at each end to clamp the whole assembly together, instead of using 4no M8 screws at each end. The design of the 3DP 'end caps' could be amended to include location nodes on the face that sits on the end of the extrusion to keep it located properly and locked in position once the nuts are tightened.

I dunno, just a thought. Maybe people won't struggle with fitting the helicoils and I'm worrying about nothing..! @HoiHman, how did you find them when you assembled your actuators? Tricky or no problem at all?

Yes I think this profile from Germany is a sticking point for those of us south of the Equator!.. it's slightly different from most of the more readily available 100100 that originates from China. Like i posted above I will investigate other options and provide info.. Worst case is tap the ends with M12 and then the inserts should go right in.. a bit of double dutch but easy enough...

HoiHman · Sep 28, 2018

Fitting the helicoils is not that difficult, you can even do it without a tap.

Just make sure you fit them straight. In order to make sure, use a very long M8 bolt and check it's alignment on every side.

3D printing hower: Things can go wrong, even with someone who has a lot of experience like me.

This morning i was expecting to find a perfect printed slider, but saw this instead

Not sure what problem is atm

Mascot · Sep 28, 2018

HoiHman said:
This morning i was expecting to find a perfect printed slider, but saw this instead

Not sure what problem is atm

Do you have a pet cat?

HugoB · Sep 28, 2018

HoiHman said:
Fitting the helicoils is not that difficult, you can even do it without a tap.

Just make sure you fit them straight. In order to make sure, use a very long M8 bolt and check it's alignment on every side.

3D printing hower: Things can go wrong, even with someone who has a lot of experience like me.

This morning i was expecting to find a perfect printed slider, but saw this instead

Not sure what problem is atm

Wow.. what a sight to behold!

...and since I’m using the same printer: could you share with us the results of your investigation? Did the first few layers print correctly, where did it start? Almost looks like the extruder just started pumping filament with no holds back...? Makes me want to install an IP camera in front of my printer to watch the progress and record for future evaluation..

Btw did you manage to control an actuator with the SimFeedback software yet? Hope your new 80/20 rig is finished soon!

Ringorian · Sep 28, 2018

d69morpwr said:
Very interested in this. Has anyone thought of adding one more actuator for traction loss or isn't that possible with this?

On its way, testing at the moment, will take some time

cprelot · Sep 28, 2018

hugo bokhorst said:
I asked that question too on the German forum and they said 100mm.

ok cool make sense for me since we need a good speed/travel ratio and 100mm is good enough to fell the car effects in most case scenario
but for Dirt Rally or perhaps flight sim we can benefit with more travel

do they mention on the forum, why they not going with more travel on this setup?
is it because the hardware hard to fit? performance/software issue? or we just can update the size of the housing and ball screw longer?

thanks

Moxley6969 · Sep 28, 2018

sjb266 said:
Yes I think this profile from Germany is a sticking point for those of us south of the Equator!.. it's slightly different from most of the more readily available 100100 that originates from China. Like i posted above I will investigate other options and provide info.. Worst case is tap the ends with M12 and then the inserts should go right in.. a bit of double dutch but easy enough...

Having checked the parts in Fusion and the hardware specs, Why not modify the top printed cap to accept m12 to begin with, Screw the Inserts.

Ringorian · Sep 28, 2018

cprelot said:
ok cool make sense for me since we need a good speed/travel ratio and 100mm is good enough to fell the car effects in most case scenario
but for Dirt Rally or perhaps flight sim we can benefit with more travel

do they mention on the forum, why they not going with more travel on this setup?
is it because the hardware hard to fit? performance/software issue? or we just can update the size of the housing and ball screw longer?

thanks

10 cm is a lot , and when i drive dirt rally i dont think that i ever reach em ... and don´t need more
https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki/Actuator

Flying is another one, but to have this "perfect" you need something which is rotating mainly, not actuators ...

Moxley6969 said:
Having checked the parts in Fusion and the hardware specs, Why not modify the top printed cap to accept m12 to begin with, Screw the Inserts.

Don´t know what you mean exactly , but check if there is some overlapping going more diameter ..

Moxley6969 · Sep 28, 2018

Ringorian said:
Don´t know what you mean exactly , but check if there is some overlapping going more diameter ..

the size of the "cap head pocket" in the main printed parts is 17.5mm wide.
A M12 Cap head is 18mm wide, So all the parts need having done is the Cap head Pocket hole opened up just a tick ...Imo there's room to play with

Yes M12 are more expensive, but removing the inserts from the equation should offset it within reason.

HoiHman · Sep 29, 2018

First actuator assemble, printer issues are causing some delay. But i will get there in time

sjb266 · Sep 29, 2018

Looks magnificent! Can you foresee any issues tapping the 10.2 and just using M12 bolts? I can just drill the 3D parts out rather than modify the files..
maybe have to drill out the servo mounting holes too?